The Sailor

Coppering now finished as can be seen from the attached photographs.
 
The tiller has now been attached to the rudder using a slightly different method than in the manual. This has been done to enable a frame to be added to the opening in the flag locker as per Mackay's drawings and allow more convenient tiller adjustments (eventually !).
 
The rudder straps have been painted bronze and top straps added (assumed to be standard as there is no contact with copper to cause galvanic action) as they was not supplied in the kit.
 
Next - bow rails - a tricky job!
 
Danny
 

Once again, Richard..well done!!.

Assembly of the masts.

The two parts of the lower masts. The lower parts are 6mm dowels and the upper parts are 4x4mm walnut.
 


Fore top and main top are fitted. The top must sit parallel to the waterline when the masts are fitted into locating holes.
 


And the same procedure with the topmasts.  This time the lower parts have to be sanded to an octagon.
 

 



Ready for painting.
 

Very nice work, Hamilton.

Richard,
just sighted your build log from begin on to date, in all Details a very nicely built and handsome Little cutter. Will you be Fitting sails as well (would love to see)?
 
Nils

Very nice and precise work here - the addition of the masts really makes her come alive.
hamilton

And even more.

And more !

Hello folks,
 
Here are a few pictures that I have photographed today. The weather was perfect for photography. There currently I carve the adornments of the starboard side. And then I look forward to the figure head.
 
@ Sailor: thank you!
@ Dafi: I rush, I rush :-)
 
Regards Kay

Yesterday I started with the coppering of the hull.
 

 

 

In the next step I've planked the stern fascia inside and outside.
 

 

 
Then the stern fascia was ready to glue into place. I also glued a stripe of walnut on the top and both sides.
 

 

Assembly of the masts.

The two parts of the lower masts. The lower parts are 6mm dowels and the upper parts are 4x4mm walnut.
 


Fore top and main top are fitted. The top must sit parallel to the waterline when the masts are fitted into locating holes.
 


And the same procedure with the topmasts.  This time the lower parts have to be sanded to an octagon.
 

 



Ready for painting.
 

At 1:64, that's beautiful.
 
Bob

Thanks a lot for the words of encouragement Mobbsie! Much appreciated as usual!
 
OK - time for another update. The cannon rigging continues, but I've decided to break it up a bit by completing some other parts of the build at the same time - namely, the ship's wheel, the capstan, the main jeer & topsail sheet bitts (the latter fitted with gallows) and the forward gallows (positioned just forward of the forward hatches and not yet installed).
 
The forward gallows are not included in the Corel kit nor do they appear in Goodwin's drawings. They do, however, show up in a photo of a model in Goodwin's book, and I've used that photo as support for the decision to install these gallows. In any case, I need them as forward support for the spare masts that act as a cradle for the ship's boat (about which I asked an extremely stupid question in another area of this forum). So there it is....
 
All the parts were scratch built with the exception of the ship's wheel itself, which I did not even try to attempt. The supports for the wheel that were included in the kit were these spindly metal pieces - they looked like metal pillars that had been repurposes as a ship's wheel. I derived the design for the ones I built from Goodwin.
 
The capstan was a lot of fun to make, and even though it did not turn out perfect, I'm more or less happy with the results. I could have made it again, but I feel pressure to move along with the build - I may have mentioned earlier that we're expecting another child in late November, so once that happens, there will be precious little time for modelling - and lots of time for bouncing the little person on my knee and teaching our son how to change diapers!
 
Now the photos
hamilton
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Very very nice build...

Nice bit of eight squaring on the topmasts there Richard, look excellent.
 
B.E.

Assembly of the masts.

The two parts of the lower masts. The lower parts are 6mm dowels and the upper parts are 4x4mm walnut.
 


Fore top and main top are fitted. The top must sit parallel to the waterline when the masts are fitted into locating holes.
 


And the same procedure with the topmasts.  This time the lower parts have to be sanded to an octagon.
 

 



Ready for painting.
 

Assembly of the masts.

The two parts of the lower masts. The lower parts are 6mm dowels and the upper parts are 4x4mm walnut.
 


Fore top and main top are fitted. The top must sit parallel to the waterline when the masts are fitted into locating holes.
 


And the same procedure with the topmasts.  This time the lower parts have to be sanded to an octagon.
 

 



Ready for painting.
 

Assembly of the masts.

The two parts of the lower masts. The lower parts are 6mm dowels and the upper parts are 4x4mm walnut.
 


Fore top and main top are fitted. The top must sit parallel to the waterline when the masts are fitted into locating holes.
 


And the same procedure with the topmasts.  This time the lower parts have to be sanded to an octagon.
 

 



Ready for painting.
 

HMS Royal William in 1719
 
Historical Background
 
 
The HMS Royal William in 1719 was the second ship of that name. The first HMS ROYAL WILLIAM was built in 1692 out of the 1670 HMS PRINCE forth. Rebuilt in this the extent of HMS PRINCE were retained, only the appearance has been significantly modernized. It was in honor of King William III. renamed HMS PRINCE in HMS ROYAL WILLIAM. The HMS ROYAL WILLIAM in 1692 was subjected to this Rebuilt in Chatham by shipwright Robert Lee.
William III. reigned from 1689 to 1702. He comes from the house of Oranien Nassau.
To make in England, he came through the „Glorious Revolution" 1688/89, at the Stuart King James II was deposed. William III. was married to Mary II Stuart. Mary II Stuart died on December 28, 1694th . After the death of William III. by Maria's sister, Anne Stuart power. Quenn Anne was the last British queen tables from the House of Stuart.
Anne reigned from 1702 to 1714. The English Parliament cleared the way for George I from the House of Hanover with the „Act of Settlement“. George I ruled Great Britain from 1714 to 1727. In the reign of George I., the second much Rebuilt HMS ROYAL WILLIAM. In 1719, she was subjected to this Rebuilt in Portsmouth by ship builder John Naish. You still kept the name HMS ROYAL WILLIAM. Rebuilt in 1756 during her next she was from a first rate to a seconde rate of 84 cannon built back. She was one of the ships of the Royal Navy with the longest period of service and was scrapped in 1813. Of the HMS ROYAL WILLIAM, there are three models in the NMM in London and one in Annapolis from the Rogers Collektion. Although the HMS ROYAL WILLIAM is one of the best documented ships of the Royal Navy, so there are very large differences in the models. In this I'll talk more about in the course of my building report.
 
My ROYAL WILLIAM is based on the plans of Euromodel. The keel and the frames are made of poplar plywood and the hull was built of pinewood. After a little bit of boxwood and pear only came to use. Now some pictures, I will soon, when I have more time, to write much more.
 
Regards Kay
 
I hope you understand my bad english, I will learn it here in the forum definitely better.

Time for bowsprit and mast assembly. I‘ve just finished the bowsprit. For tapering all the masts, yards and booms I‘ll use my Proxxon lathe.
 


Here are the tapered parts. The two holes in the bowsprit cap have to be drilled in.
 


And here is the assembled bowsprit with all the fittings. The bowsprit and jib-boom should be stained walnut, but I like this colouring more. Well, it's just a matter of taste.
 

 

 

She's coming together very nicely Richard, the Bowsprit colour looks good, I didn't care much for the Walnut finish either.
 
B.E.

Only a minor update for today.
 
I've glued the elm tree pumps into place and fixed the anchor to the anchor cable.
 

 
Well, it wasn't even a good idea to paint the casing and the outlet black...
 
 
The anchor will be stowed later
 

 
 
And at last a total view as of July 27.
 

Hi all, the next part of the deck fittings is done: the elm tree pumps. The assembly was quite time-consuming.
 
The first image shows all the parts of the pumps
 

 
Referred to the instruction the outlet should be just glued to the casing and nothing else. I decided to fit the parts into each other. I also drilled a little hole into the outlet.
 

 

 
In the next step I've glued the two parts of the yoke together and glued then to the side of the pump casings.
 

 
The rest of the assembly was quite easy.
 

 

 

Only a minor update for today.
 
I've glued the elm tree pumps into place and fixed the anchor to the anchor cable.
 

 
Well, it wasn't even a good idea to paint the casing and the outlet black...
 
 
The anchor will be stowed later
 

 
 
And at last a total view as of July 27.