madtatt
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About madtatt
- Birthday 03/15/1968
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Many thanks, Roel. 😊 Next, I tackled the crane boom and the wind vents. I’m actually installing the crane boom very early on, for two reasons. First, this allows me to finish the work on the amidships deck, and second, I want to put the upper part of the masts in place as late as possible. On the Mikasa, they are much taller and more delicate than on the Bismarck, making the model quite unwieldy. And so I got started. First, I created a mounting for the pulley on the boat deck. This consisted of two deck eyes and a base plate. The nice thing about this was that it gave me a little more leeway when aligning the crane boom. The hook could be moved up and down a bit in the bracket, which simplified things. Then I assembled the missing wind vents. And without further ado, let’s get all that stuff onto the model. The crane boom is placed on a support. And the pulley system can be conveniently parked on the deck. It’s a damn tight fit, but it works.
- 210 replies
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- Russo-Japanese War
- Mikasa
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madtatt reacted to a post in a topic:
Anshan by mikegr - 1/700
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
SMS Viribus Unitis by Arvaa - Trumpeter - 1/350 - PLASTIC
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
SMS Viribus Unitis by Arvaa - Trumpeter - 1/350 - PLASTIC
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SMS Viribus Unitis by Arvaa - Trumpeter - 1/350 - PLASTIC
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That's true. It's easier for me at 1:200. And I wasn't sure at first if it would look good either. I only knew I liked it once the paint was on. Take a look at post 20, you can see the result there.
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- Viribus Unitis
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SMS Viribus Unitis by Arvaa - Trumpeter - 1/350 - PLASTIC
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I do think it's visible through the surface coating. I had initially planned to do the same with my Mikasa, but then I solved it using styrene profiles.
- 13 replies
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- Viribus Unitis
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SMS Viribus Unitis by Arvaa - Trumpeter - 1/350 - PLASTIC
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USS Constitution by rvchima - Mamoli - 1:93
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Today I completed a small but exquisite detail, exactly as written. But let’s start from the beginning. The forward bridge building was still missing some colored lights—the navigation lights. Port… And starboard… Now I could finally get to work on my shelves. First, I cut a lot of profiles to size. Painstakingly glued together and painted brown. I folded long strips of tissue paper using an accordion-like technique, colored the ends, and then cut them off. That’s how each letter was created. Here you can see A to E. I couldn’t get more than five in a row, so in the end there are only 20 letters on the shelf. Please forgive me. 🥲 Then I set it up on the object of my desire to test it out and let it work. I really like it. And I also made the attachment points for the ropes flatter. They were still too high for me. Successful Sunday. 👍
- 210 replies
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- Russo-Japanese War
- Mikasa
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IJN Mikasa by Herby63 - Merit International with Pontos set - 1/200 - PLASTIC
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madtatt reacted to a post in a topic:
IJN Mikasa by Herby63 - Merit International with Pontos set - 1/200 - PLASTIC
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A beautiful ship. What you're building looks absolutely fantastic; I'd love to come aboard.
- 13 replies
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madtatt reacted to a post in a topic:
SMS Viribus Unitis by Arvaa - Trumpeter - 1/350 - PLASTIC
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madtatt reacted to a post in a topic:
SMS Viribus Unitis by Arvaa - Trumpeter - 1/350 - PLASTIC
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I've finished the bridge and its girder and am now starting to add more details. First, I'll take care of the signal flags. So I created this prototype. For this, I've built a small wooden cabinet out of styrene to store the flags, which I'll probably make from tissue paper. I'm toying with the idea of having a figure here later, holding one of the signal lines to raise a flag, something like this... Now I have to build four of these little cabinets first, I'll keep you posted.
- 210 replies
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madtatt reacted to a post in a topic:
IJN Mikasa by Herby63 - Merit International with Pontos set - 1/200 - PLASTIC
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@Jeff59 Thank you. And once again, thank you for this valuable information, Jeff. You are a wellspring of knowledge. 👏
- 210 replies
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- Mikasa
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Hi Terry. It's very unfortunate that Amati is letting its customers down with such errors. It just goes to show that companies don't think it's necessary to do a little research before launching a product. Especially since the effort required to gather this information is extremely small. Despite everything, you're making a great model out of it. 👍
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Hi Terry, a beautiful and interesting build.👍 However, there's one thing that's not quite right. DKM submarines don't have a red underwater hull. The hull color corresponds to today's RAL 7016, or anthracite gray. I don't know how historically accurate you want your model to be, but I thought I'd point it out. 😉
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Happy New Year, everyone! Let’s get our glue out again in 2026 and, above all, stay healthy so we can continue our wonderful hobby. I used my day off to tackle another tricky task.You might remember that I wanted to do things differently than planned when mounting the posts that support the bridge on the bridge deck. First, I glued the bridge securely in place yesterday and let it dry thoroughly until this morning.Then I pushed the posts through the holes I had already prepared. The profiles at the top were cut to size, and that was it. A little brown paint, and you can’t see them anymore. Then I attached the support pillars at the front. That was a bit tricky, to be honest, but it worked. Thanks in part to my assembly stand, which allowed me to lay the model on its side again and made the job much easier. And so the bridge and its supports are now in place. It wasn’t easy to align all the support pillars perfectly straight and parallel to each other. I really like working with the team below me. The posts still need to be aged, but I'll do that this weekend.
- 210 replies
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- Russo-Japanese War
- Mikasa
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Thank you so much for the lovely compliment, Chris. Yes, I plan to take the model to one or two trade fairs. First, the largest plastic model building fair here in Germany, the Euro Model Expo. And then there's one in the Netherlands, the Scale Model Challenge. And every now and then, friends of mine put on a temporary exhibition at the Maritime Museum in Hamburg. I'm also considering taking the Mikasa there. I'm already working on a transport box so it survives the journey undamaged.
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Hello everyone. I used my time off to recruit even more crew. They’re actually members of the German Navy. But as soon as they received a nice new styrene flat cap, they started speaking Japanese. 😁 So I’m further increasing the number of available figures. Everyone dressed up and ready to board the ship. I remembered the words of user dafi from a German forum, who spoke of group formation, and I hope I’ve implemented it adequately. With a group of sailors talking amongst themselves. What could the boys possibly be chatting about as soon as the officer turned his back on them?! Something needs to be repaired on the fan cover, and a sailor is bringing more equipment to the storage lockers. An officer steps out of the armored command post and the sailor gives a brisk salute. At the stern, a sailor goes into the control station, and an officer keeps an eye on the boys working in the pinnace. I’ve already distributed the figures on the lower deckhouse, so now the upper bridge with the cams can finally be installed. I would have difficulty reaching those spots afterwards, so that’s how I did it before. Even these figures are barely visible afterwards, but again they give the model depth and a touch of life. The good thing is that I could easily use the DKM sailors with their incorrect clothing.
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- Mikasa
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You're very welcome, Ferrus. And it seems you've hit the mark. Your tarp turned out great. And on your first try, impressive! 👍
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- barco rabelo
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@Ferrus Manus Thank you so much. I use tissue paper that I dye brown. Then I soak it in diluted wood glue and shape it. For example, I lay it over a boat and lift the paper with tweezers, folding it over itself to create an arrangement of folds. Then I let it dry thoroughly. After that, I apply a wash with very diluted dark brown paint. I let it dry again and then drybrush it with a light brown or light gray. I hope you find this helpful.
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