madtatt
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SMS Emden 1914 by RGL - Revell - 1/350 - PLASTIC
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
CEC YT-1300 Millennium Falcon von madtatt - Bandai - 1:72
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Now that the lower part of the masts is firmly anchored to the deck, I can turn my attention back to the bridgehouses. First, I soldered more attachment points for the rigging. It simply holds best. As mentioned in the previous post, I noticed two dark squares. I believe these can only be the gratings of the accommodation ladder. Since I'll be showing my ship at full speed, as usual, they'll have to be stowed there as well on this model. But that won't happen until after I've attached the bridgehouses to the deck. What I'm already doing is attaching the corresponding davits. I've identified them in the following pictures. Rear bridgehouse.... And the implementation by me. And at the front. Strangely, my image editing program didn’t allow a green arrow. So a white arrow points to the davit. Note that the davits point to the right and left. Great, I love searching for details like Sherlock and then adding them. 🔎
- 93 replies
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- Russo-Japanese War
- Mikasa
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Hi Jeff, it's me again. I discovered something else interesting about the pretty good and well-known picture of the Mikasa at the Vickers shipyard shortly before its completion. I enlarged the bridgehouse and discovered the gratings of the accommodation ladder. See green arrows. Since I want to show the ship at full speed, I need them stowed. What I can't find, however, are the drainpipes you added. Is it possible that these were also added to the museum ship later? To prevent tourists from slipping when its rain? 😁
- 93 replies
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- Russo-Japanese War
- Mikasa
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madtatt reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Dreadnought 1907 by RGL - FINISHED - Zvezda - 1/350 - PLASTIC - revisited
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madtatt reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Dreadnought 1907 by RGL - FINISHED - Zvezda - 1/350 - PLASTIC - revisited
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madtatt reacted to a post in a topic:
Rebuilding the fleet by mikegr - 1/700 - restoring old plastic models
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Good morning everyone. Another question for Jeff. You left out the small handwheel on the square mushroom structures and changed the height. I also think it's a ventilation duct and not a hatch. You took the height of the ventilation duct from the picture of the museum ship. However, there it's also positioned a bit further forward. And now to my thoughts. I found an original photo where the bridge houses are clearly visible and brightened it up a bit. However, I can't see these structures at all in the photos. Whereas the wheelhouse is quite clearly visible. Could it be that the height of the ventilation ducts on the museum ship was only subsequently changed? Otherwise they must be visible from the front view of the bridge house, like here, again on the museum ship. And another question that occurs to me, Jeff. Where did you get the information that these cable drums were installed on the bridge houses? I've carefully reviewed all my photos of the original ship, but I can't find her on any of them. 🤔
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- 93 replies
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- Russo-Japanese War
- Mikasa
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Today, it was all about properly securing the masts to the deck. I’m always a little nervous before such important steps. That’s why preparation is key to ensuring everything goes smoothly. That’s how I did this small plate that serves as a support for the stop angle. By placing it on the bridge house, I can quickly check the angle of each side of the mast. This is important because the time window is very small. I use superglue with a long setting time, but it still has to be done quickly. I won’t keep you in suspense, but it worked. I laid some more rope next to it and had a sailor check the ropes. And everything went smoothly at the rear as well. Phew… The deck amidships is slowly filling up. Now I can continue working on the bridge houses.
- 93 replies
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- Russo-Japanese War
- Mikasa
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Okay, let’s move on to the masts and pause for a moment with the bridge houses. I noticed the really tight space in which the masts have to be installed. Once the ladders leading from the bridge house to the deck are installed, there’s hardly any room left to properly secure and align the masts. There’s even less space toward the stern. That’s why I decided to attach the lower part of the masts in front of the bridgehouses. It’s nice that the lower mast is then split in two, so it won’t be a problem in terms of height. I also noticed the very limited surface area where the mast connects to the deck. I consider this a problem. Especially since I’d like to take this model to one or two exhibitions. A little more adhesive surface would be helpful. So I decided to make it larger. This was done using an M4 washer. I drilled it out to the appropriate size and reduced its thickness. I then soldered it to the bottom of the mast. Primed… …and painted and placed in the holes on the deck for testing. I quite like this so far. This should significantly increase the strength of the masts on deck and make aligning them at right angles easier.
- 93 replies
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- Russo-Japanese War
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madtatt reacted to a post in a topic:
SMS Emden 1914 by RGL - Revell - 1/350 - PLASTIC
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Thank you, Jeff, for the welcome to the delicate, nerve-wracking Mikasa Club. I feel honored to have been accepted. 😅 And thanks for the extremely valuable tips you've given me. I can really use them, especially on the bridge house. Of course, I'll be checking your build report again and again. Which brings us to the masts. I've thought long and hard about the best way to approach this. I've decided to first attach only the lowest part of the masts to the deck. I'm also concerned about the weak attachment of the masts; the adhesive surface is tiny. I'm therefore going to increase the contact surface by soldering a small perforated disc to the bottom of the brass masts. This will increase the adhesive surface and simplify alignment at right angles. We'll get to that in the next construction phase. Probably this weekend. Then let's see if I can get out of this tricky situation, as you describe, without any injuries, Jeff. 😉
- 93 replies
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- Russo-Japanese War
- Mikasa
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madtatt reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Hood by Paul Jarman - Trumpeter - 1/200 Scale - PLASTIC
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madtatt reacted to a post in a topic:
SMS Emden 1914 by RGL - Revell - 1/350 - PLASTIC
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madtatt reacted to a post in a topic:
SMS Emden 1914 by RGL - Revell - 1/350 - PLASTIC
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madtatt reacted to a post in a topic:
SMS Emden 1914 by RGL - Revell - 1/350 - PLASTIC
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madtatt reacted to a post in a topic:
SMS Emden 1914 by RGL - Revell - 1/350 - PLASTIC
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Hello together. It’s fun to put your own stamp on a model that’s produced in large numbers. However, you should be aware that sometimes things won’t work out as you hoped. That’s what happened with the last construction phase. Cost me a sleepless night, but first things first. A new coat of primer was applied very thinly to check the profile height and build quality. I quite liked it. As I considered how to proceed with the bridgehouse, I encountered a problem. I have to say that building this ship is considerably more challenging than, for example, the Bismarck, with its rather simple, straightforward superstructure. Everything on this old ship of the line is so delicate and intricate that you really have to think carefully about the order in which you assemble the model. The mast is another thing I’m racking my brains over, but that will come later. Now back to the bridgehouse and the culprit that made my life difficult. This one: This is the external connection from the bridge house to the deck above. The supporting structure is once again extremely detailed by Pontos and simply beautiful to behold. The problem is that this outer bracket on the bridge house extends very low and could conflict with my profiles. So, to be on the safe side, I removed parts of it and rearranged them. Believe me, that really bothered me. But I think I solved it quite well. Less is sometimes more. It was a bit frustrating to remove the profiles at this point, but I wanted to play it safe. With such delicate structures, I felt it would be too risky to just keep going, only to find out at the end that it wouldn’t fit together.
- 93 replies
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- Russo-Japanese War
- Mikasa
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A first coat of primer to check the profile height. Then I sanded it down further and adjusted it. Now I’m satisfied. The rain deflectors for the portholes are neatly lined up, and the door looks great. Pontos, in fact. The height of the portholes on the front bridgehouse is completely wrong; they are positioned much too low. So, they were filled with styrene round material and re-marked. Drilled and better… The grinding orgy continues. 😅
- 93 replies
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- Russo-Japanese War
- Mikasa
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And now we continue with the application of the profiles. I used the same ones on the bridge house as on the hull, only this time I glued them on the short side. I thought they should look narrower on the smaller superstructures. That’s why they were sanded down quite a bit afterward. But today is the end of it for now, the whole thing needs to dry properly overnight before I sand it. Now I can repeat the whole thing at the front bridge house.
- 93 replies
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- Mikasa
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@Jeff59 Good morning, Jeff. I'm not sure which hatch you're talking about, but I think you mean this one.... You raised it higher and left out the handwheel, as you can clearly see on the museum ship.
- 93 replies
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- Russo-Japanese War
- Mikasa
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Once again, the details are sanded down, portholes drilled out, and holes filled in to replace and re-clad everything with beautiful brass. First, the rear bridge house. The gusset plates are too thick for me and will be replaced with 0.25 mm thick styrene. And again on the deck. Now the same with the bridge house on the bow side.
- 93 replies
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- Russo-Japanese War
- Mikasa
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Glad I can help, Jeff. I'm still waiting for a response from my friend in Hamburg; he's very busy at the moment. The good thing is, we have plenty of time until you're ready. The ship model itself will keep you busy for a while. 😉
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Und hier noch einmal: der schnellste Schrottbrocken der Galaxie. Möge die Macht mit dir sein.
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Thank you Jeff, yes I also really like the rivets, even though they are in 1:72 scale they work well. I can report that the symbiosis of Pontos and Ka Models on the Funnel has been a success. It did require a bit of trickery, but I think it looks impressive. Let’s start on the port side. I had to position the rings so that the second ring wouldn’t interfere with the gallery. Therefore, it was important to measure the ring spacing precisely. Next came the task of threading the pipe into the gallery. The lower pipe clamp could only be attached after the pipe had already been installed on the funnel. A serious fiddly job. Additionally, the rings were in the way of the tubes to the right and left of the center. As mentioned in the last post, they needed to be slightly padded. Otherwise, they wouldn’t fit over the rings. It was not intended that the two accessory sets would be mixed together. I did have some initial difficulties, but I think I got the most out of both sets. And the result feels very satisfying.
- 93 replies
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- Russo-Japanese War
- Mikasa
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