Pitan

p.s. While you are replacing stuff, have a look at the belaying pins, see what you think.

Going to watch, this will be different even for a new kit. I stand to be corrected, but, I thought Vanguard uses Ropes of Scale? Though the supplied standing rigging is black in this kit, and you may want brown?

Been a while since my last update, my apologies if this post becomes too long. The main cause of my delay was a self-inflicted problem. The instructions tell us to make sure the eyebolt openings in the spirketting patterns line up with those in the inner bulkheads (parts 32 and 33, L & R). Thing is, these parts fit the hull very nicely, and I didn't think about the holes until it was too late. This left me with eyebolt holes very much out of line. Sorting that out involved several iterations of filling holes and using a jig to line up and drill new holes. This is, essentially, the jig I wound up with; a simpler style would be better. Holes are now drilled, gun wales and rails have been added, along with a small colour change. The starboard looks fine, but I have some fettling to do port stern timer (sp?) Oh, and that starboard bulkead, at the bow, is now filled. Don't think I'll try to correct that colour, it takes some looking to see the issue.

Don't think I've seen a small boat with a windlass before, what was the purpose?

p.s there isn't much space for bulldog/folder clip clamps on this kit - I did experiment, but the lower deck blocks the first few rows.

Looking at images of my own build, the frames and keel doubler (cheeks? name?) looked very like yours. I might have reduced more of the final (transom/stern?) frame, but then, every build is different.

To the other advice, I'd suggest supporting each foot while you trim off the base. When you display the figure, consider adding a bit of supporting scenery below the knee to help keep the figure safe and upright. This is common on stone (and ceramic) statues, e.g. Nelson's column (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nelson's_Column#/media/File:Admiral_Horatio_Nelson,_Nelson's_Column,_Trafalgar_Square,_London.JPG)

Looks good, wish I'd seen your lining up trick for the numbers earlier.

Oh, another Vanguard Sherbourne! I found that the plank woods bend nicely with water, just take your time and get it right. You probably do want to bend in three dimensions - up-down, around the hull (especially the bow), and apply twist. The twist is hardest to get, especially around the bow. I found heat helped a lot. Both PVA and Titebond soften with heat, but will grab again as they cool.

Deck and inner bulwarks are now on: The missing numeral disappeared when I dropped the hull - at least there were no masts or spars to break.

Welcome to the Vanguard builders, I'm building Sherbourne; it is a very nice (as in fine) kit with some elegant laser work.

Sherbourne now has outer bulwarks and some paint. I have an alignment issue with the starboard bulwark at the bow: Need to think about a solution to that. A question. I'm thinking about adding sails. Is there any guidance for adding sails to an 18C cutter? FWIW, the kit has three yards on the mast, main and driver booms for the gaff, and a retractable bowsprit.

A quick note to say the second layer of planks is on, and filled. And now with the stern post.

Thanks guys Work has started with the second planking layer. The planks in front are supposed to be colour graded, a change of light and viewing angle suggests some revision is in order ... except, these are all due to be painted white.

Thanks Thukydides. The first layer of planks is on, still needs sanding and filling. Three stealers per side, one each at the bow, the stern, and amid-ships (is this last a stealer?) FWIW, I re-used two (of six) planks from my first, failed, attempt. The reset were fresh items in the kit. Sanding next, then filling

Thanks @mugje, the kit is beautiful, I hope I can do it justice. New planks have been added. Just three per side as before, but a revised approach. I'm using Chris's technique to define the bow taper, but an electric plank bender to shape the timber before, and after, glueing and pinning. (Tried soaking, but haven't got the technique right yet.)

Thanks guys I spent a little time stripping the planks off Still need to clean up the glue, before taking another go.

Work has progressed on the Sherbourne, with the bulwarks on and a start to the first layer of planking. This is my first PoB build, and I'm not sure if what I'm seeing is usual. From the sides this looks OK, as far as I can tell, pretty much like most PoB builds. Bow on, there may be an issue with the first starboard plank... It is only after seeing that photo that I even noticed this, but that plank nay be very thin after sanding. Looking from below, this really does worry me. Am I building trouble for myself here? Or is this normal?

Thanks @Thukydides, I'm impressed by how it goes together (see below). The kit arrived last week, and I started building over the weekend. I couldn't glue the hull then, but that didn't stop me doing some work. A few smaller components were glued together: From the left, this included the core of the stem, all the hatches, the companionway and the rudder and stern post. I also started bevelling the bulkheads, keel cheeks* and deck support patterns. These I glued up last night. The hatch beams were added today. I succeeded in snapping two of them, the foremost and one of the middle ones. Recovery and repair wasn't too difficult. These were followed by the stern frames (broke one of those too), the ply false deck and made a start on the transom. The piece of string here is pulling the counter into the transom - none of my clamps would stay in place long enough to hold the parts together. Impressions so far? Apart from bevelling and char removal on exposed edges of the pear parts, none of the components needed fettling. The parts just fitted. The only part that could be difficult is the stern counter. This has a double curve. This was managed with an electric plank bending tool. *Keel cheeks, my term. Pieces that sit either side of the keel, slotted down locking the bulkheads in place. Parts 19 in this kit. These have been designed to form the bearding line (this is my first build that could've had a beard & rabbet).

Moving forward 1 1/2 centuries from my (nearly finished) previous build, this is the new Vanguard Models Sherbourne. Included in the box were a few extras; being new to ship modelling, I'd ordered a pin pusher and some crew who will, I hope, lend scale to the build. Seen here with cordage, detail parts and the instructions. Below the instructions and bubble wrap was the wood (and acrylic base). In addition to the instruction booklet, there are 19 A3 sheets of plans and rigging guides.

p.s. The body plan from Greenwich shows no doors over the gun ports (https://prints.rmg.co.uk/products/body-plan-for-sherborne-1763-j7809?_pos=2&_sid=bedc6a7ff&_ss=r).

My next build will be HMS Sherbourne. For the build I have two questions (so far) arising from the plan available from the Greenwich site (https://prints.rmg.co.uk/products/plan-of-the-sherborne-1763-j8467) 1) The windlass on the plan occupies the full width of the bow. (Think it's a windlass, the roller used to raise the anchors?) How practical was that? If the crew wished to work forward of the windlass, either for sail handling, or to work the bow guns, they'd have to vault over the machinery. (Thinking as I'm typing ... given the vessel never had her full complement of guns, were these the spaces left vacant?) 2) The plan shows two doors (name?) covering only the second (of five) gun port from the bow. Is this a draughts-mans convention, leaving off the remaining four ports as unnecessary visual clutter, or would the only be one set of doors? If only the one, why the second port? (Could this be the unoccupied gun position?) FWIW, I'll be building the new Vanguard kit, which does have the full width windlass.

A bit of catch-up. I've done some more work on the figures - they now have clothes and hats made from Milliput. They have been painted, and can take their place on the boat:

Thanks, and I've just placed a pre-order for Sherbourne.

A couple of updates for the shallop. The rigging lines have been tidied up; the different number of loops reflect how much of the line is in use. Off-topic, I gather that belaying pins are unlikely at this stage (early 1600's); it is far too late to do anything about that now. And I've made progress with posing the crew; the guy at the back (stern) controls the tiller: He has developed a paunch, and wants for some period clothing.