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Pitan

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Everything posted by Pitan

  1. Thanks @wefalck, that should be an interesting read, though not cheap. One more image from Willem van de Velde: Dutch Ships and Small Vessels Offshore in a Breeze https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/willem-van-de-velde-dutch-ships-and-small-vessels-offshore-in-a-breeze Presuming this is a spritsail, this shows the sail's peak attached directly to the spirit without a block. It also gives better clues as to how the flag (?) worked.
  2. These Dutch paintings are proving interesting, if complex. Calm: Two Dutch Vessels https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/studio-of-willem-van-de-velde-calm-two-dutch-vessels Studio of Willem van de Velde A Dutch Vessel in a Strong Breeze https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/willem-van-de-velde-a-dutch-vessel-in-a-strong-breeze Willem van de Velde Interesting uses of the sprit to manage the main sail. Side note: Thames barges often use brailing lines. These have been unusual in the 17c paintings, so far, I've only seen them in work by Willem van de Velde: A Dutch Ship and Other Small Vessels in a Strong Breeze https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/willem-van-de-velde-a-dutch-ship-and-other-small-vessels-in-a-strong-breeze
  3. Thanks Chuck, that is helpful to see; similar to, but a different arrangement from the kit - an extra block compared with the model.
  4. Thank-you, yes. He questions "What happens? How do you tack the [fore]sail over the sprit?"
  5. And this, (Dutch again) https://www.ad.nl/zeeland/zeeuws-genootschap-krijgt-twee-eeuwenoude-zeeuwse-schilderijen~a8742759/140613311/ Several vessels with spirits there.
  6. Thanks Allan I couldn't see that image (there is some issue between my PC and the images at Greenwich), but Googling lead to this picture of Dutch mussel fishers, https://artuk.org/discover/artworks/mussel-fishing-175360 that I can see.
  7. Hello I am currently building Captain John Smith’s shallop (link), which has a spirit sail. I am concerned that, as kitted, the spirit (yard) sits too far ahead of the mast, and wouldn't be practical in a working boat. I am aware of two reproduction shallops that have similar arrangements (the Chesapeake Bay shallop, and the Elizabeth Tilly of Plymouth/Mayflower), but don't think these rely (relied) entirely on sails or oars. The nearest working vessels I can see that use spirits are Thames barges. Their spirits tend to be much shorter ahead of the mast. Should I build the spirit as kitted - is that a likely arrangement? If not, how should I revise that part of the rig? (FWIW: I don't believe we have any surviving shallops, but I would like something that could have worked.)
  8. Thanks @Richard44, saw you'd finished your build. You overcame some hurdles there that I'd not expected. Think I'll have to take my question about the spirit to the Masting, rigging and sails section. Yes, I did colourise the image. There are errors in that picture; the main sail by the mast is missing colour.
  9. That looks good Richard. Sorry to hear about the cord unravelling, though that's useful to know. Did your kit does have sails? Mine does, though they are a bit heavy.
  10. Unlikely. I've been quiet over the Christmas period. Quiet, but not a complete stand still. I acquired some better clamps, these would have made a huge difference at earlier stages in this build. The planking is (more or less) complete: More or less complete, but it is in need of some filler It is a little early yet, but I'm thinking about the rigging the spirit on this kit. Somehow, I feel it extends too far in front of the mast. I think that both the Chesapeake Bay shallop and the Elizabeth Tilley (? Plymouth/Mayflower shallop) have/had similar spirits, but wouldn't it interfere with the foresail/stay sail?
  11. Thanks, Richard, for some interesting posts. Looking at the kit's leeboard chains, with their open ends, I think that sourcing a different type of chain was the right move.
  12. It helped, some of those frames were delicate. Indeed, four frames broke through overzealous handling. Some of the repairs can be seen above. The planking jig has been built, though the boat spends little time in it (on it?) Above, attaching the garboard. A lot of the frame teeth need fettling before planks are added, which can be something of an endurance sport when done by hand. I've moved on to attaching the top plank and wale (is it a wale on a boat?). As mentioned in @Richard44's build, these are carvel planks, not clinker as the rest of the boat (thanks for that Richard). As seen from the bow, without clips That photo tells us that a bit of filling needed there. As I write, the stern planks are yet to be glued. This will give me a chance to fit the planks to the boat. Other work: The shallop has a barrel (water? beer?), which has been started. Seen here with a GB 5p piece.
  13. Interesting discussion about using different styles of leeboard Somewhere around 3:38 he discusses, on the other side, a leeboard "that can swing out in the normal fashion".
  14. So far as I can tell, the leeboards are held down by gravity, and can ride up. The advantage in shallow waters is that this reduces the risk of getting stuck if the boat runs aground. Have a look at some Thames barges. While carrying more sail, they have some similarities to this shallop, notably the main sail is a spirit sail, and they use leeboards.
  15. @allanyed, there is a drawing on some educational material (link: https://silo.tips/download/captain-john-smith-s-shallop) that appears to show overlapping planks on the hull. I believe this was based on early designs for (what I call) the Chesapeake Bay Shallop. I'd agree, this boat was carvel built by the time she hit the water.
  16. Good to see your progress. I had similar issues with the 15th C wooden boat, and will watch for this on my own shallop build.
  17. This build so far: Started with the main frames. Frame 3 Also made up was the skeleton jig and keel. The floor supports were glued to the jig's base, but the outer frame supports were left unglued. Initially, this was dry fitting. Later I decided the fit of the frames and, especially, the keel is so tight, that removal later may be easier with the frame left dry. The current state of the build Frames dry fitted to the keel, awaiting glue. Aside: The kit contains jigs for the cant frames (2 at the stern, three at the bow). I found these elegant, but useless in practice. In common with several other builders, I feel it is much easier to build the end frames in the skeleton jig.
  18. Having finished a 15c model boat last weekend, I've embarked on a similar, though larger kit, a shallop by Pavel Nikitin. This kit, or more specifically, Olha Batchvarov's build here is what drew me to this aspect of the hobby. This will be my second wooden model boat build. Please do correct any errors in terminology, one build isn't enough to learn the language. Looking at other builds on this forum, most seem to have stalled with the skeleton. The exception is Ms Batchvarov's (shipphotographer.com) build {edit 13 Dec 2023} Richard44 has a build that is fully planked, and may be finished soon.{/edit}
  19. Varnishing is done, rudder hinges made from 10 thou plasticard (and wire pins), and a short painter (? rope at bow for tying up?) added. Think this is done.
  20. Going to watch with interest Bryan. I, too, would be interested to know when the rabbet and bearing lines should be cut.
  21. Thanks @Bryan Woods, I too have the shallop. I plan to start that soon after finishing this vessel.
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