Pitan
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Everything posted by Pitan
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Thanks, Richard, for some interesting posts. Looking at the kit's leeboard chains, with their open ends, I think that sourcing a different type of chain was the right move.
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- Shallop
- Pavel Nitikin
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It helped, some of those frames were delicate. Indeed, four frames broke through overzealous handling. Some of the repairs can be seen above. The planking jig has been built, though the boat spends little time in it (on it?) Above, attaching the garboard. A lot of the frame teeth need fettling before planks are added, which can be something of an endurance sport when done by hand. I've moved on to attaching the top plank and wale (is it a wale on a boat?). As mentioned in @Richard44's build, these are carvel planks, not clinker as the rest of the boat (thanks for that Richard). As seen from the bow, without clips That photo tells us that a bit of filling needed there. As I write, the stern planks are yet to be glued. This will give me a chance to fit the planks to the boat. Other work: The shallop has a barrel (water? beer?), which has been started. Seen here with a GB 5p piece.
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Interesting discussion about using different styles of leeboard Somewhere around 3:38 he discusses, on the other side, a leeboard "that can swing out in the normal fashion".
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So far as I can tell, the leeboards are held down by gravity, and can ride up. The advantage in shallow waters is that this reduces the risk of getting stuck if the boat runs aground. Have a look at some Thames barges. While carrying more sail, they have some similarities to this shallop, notably the main sail is a spirit sail, and they use leeboards.
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@allanyed, there is a drawing on some educational material (link: https://silo.tips/download/captain-john-smith-s-shallop) that appears to show overlapping planks on the hull. I believe this was based on early designs for (what I call) the Chesapeake Bay Shallop. I'd agree, this boat was carvel built by the time she hit the water.
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Good to see your progress. I had similar issues with the 15th C wooden boat, and will watch for this on my own shallop build.
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Thank-you everybody for your kind comments.
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This build so far: Started with the main frames. Frame 3 Also made up was the skeleton jig and keel. The floor supports were glued to the jig's base, but the outer frame supports were left unglued. Initially, this was dry fitting. Later I decided the fit of the frames and, especially, the keel is so tight, that removal later may be easier with the frame left dry. The current state of the build Frames dry fitted to the keel, awaiting glue. Aside: The kit contains jigs for the cant frames (2 at the stern, three at the bow). I found these elegant, but useless in practice. In common with several other builders, I feel it is much easier to build the end frames in the skeleton jig.
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Having finished a 15c model boat last weekend, I've embarked on a similar, though larger kit, a shallop by Pavel Nikitin. This kit, or more specifically, Olha Batchvarov's build here is what drew me to this aspect of the hobby. This will be my second wooden model boat build. Please do correct any errors in terminology, one build isn't enough to learn the language. Looking at other builds on this forum, most seem to have stalled with the skeleton. The exception is Ms Batchvarov's (shipphotographer.com) build {edit 13 Dec 2023} Richard44 has a build that is fully planked, and may be finished soon.{/edit}
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Thank-you guys
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Going to follow with interest Richard, I have the same kit.
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Varnishing is done, rudder hinges made from 10 thou plasticard (and wire pins), and a short painter (? rope at bow for tying up?) added. Think this is done.
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Going to watch with interest Bryan. I, too, would be interested to know when the rabbet and bearing lines should be cut.
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Thanks @Bryan Woods, I too have the shallop. I plan to start that soon after finishing this vessel.
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Been quiet for a few days, but, have made progress. The hull is fully planked Which looks good from the side, but - next time, I want to do better with the bow planking Work has been carried out on the oars - here as taken off the blank After filing and sanding I broke three of them during sanding, and again snapped one when setting up that photo . Next stage, varnishing...
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Thanks guys I did, and I meant it. Thank-you Steven. Smaller clothes pegs are available over here; easy to find in the online store named for a long river. Cutting the pegs (as Richard suggests) makes sense. I may do that for the next model (essentially this build is a rehearsal for the similar, if larger, Shallop). The build: Right now, I'm working on the clinker planks (?) Working these in opposed pairs, I've found a process that seems to work. Essentially, bend the plank, clamping it in place for the curve to settle (and, if damp, the plank to dry off). Once settled, file (bevel) the top of the preceding plank, using the frame's teeth as a guide*. The bevel helps deal with some of the vagaries in construction, giving a small additional gluing edge. * Could be done before bending the new plank to conform.
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Progress; The bench rails have been curved to fit the boat's ribs. Wetting the rail, I used a heat gun set low (a hair drier would have done) while bending, and a small sponge to keep the rail damp. This showed a (self-inflicted issue with the middle frame) That was solved by cutting the frame away from the floor (rib), and a bit of fettling before gluing the bench rail. (Side note, it is subtle, but I think I glued the correct rails the wrong way round ... the burnt side should face the boat's ribs.) Also bent and attached are the boat's inner walls. The same approach was used (wet + heat), though I feel the thin and springy wood used didn't need as much wetting. The current state of the build
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Not sure what I'm doing wrong, but I wound up using about 6.5 - 7mm of packing under the keel.
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Thank-you Steven. I had a look at your Venetian merchant ship, that was a colossal amount of research before even starting to cut your timbers. I went with a variation on your first suggestion, thinning the thick support. Instead of using the kit supplied part, I cut a couple of 2mm strips from the kit's plank sheets; much thinner than the intended part. These strips were laid as planks on the main transom, before thinning the whole to fit the model's stern slot. Even with thinning the transom, I succeeded in splitting the stern post(?) - seen repaired here. (Not the only part I've broken so far.) In that last photo, all frames have been glued to the keel, except the transom. The boat's deck has been bent to fit the keel (more bending is needed), and support strips added from my own stock (there is enough spare material in the kit for this, but ready cut strip was a simple solution).
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Thanks for this review. I chose this kit for my first wooden boat build.
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This will be my first wooden boat build, so lots of learning ahead. Please correct my errors in terminology. The build is of a 15th C rowing boat, kit by Pavel Nikitin, originally marketed as a "Santa Maria boat". References to Santa Maria have been dropped from the maker's website, though the packaging is unchanged. If you'd like to see the box contents, Ron Thibault has an unboxing thread, here: Construction has started. The first stages were to assemble the keel, skeleton jig (?), and display base. When in the jig, the boat will need support under the keel This is about 3mm thick, suspect we'll need more than that, much more A question. I get that we remove the char from the edges of laser cut parts, but, are we supposed to thin the frames too? I ask, because the transom (?) comes two parts, a thick support, and a thinner decorative face. I have several options here, Open up the keel slot to accommodate both parts Split the decorative face to pass either side of the stern post Omit the decorative face - this will leave a part number exposed Other? FWIW, the part numbers are burnt into the boat's frames along with the bevelling guides (?) Thinning these frames to hide the part number will lose the bevelling guides; part numbers will be unsightly if not removed.
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Looking good, despite the accident. I'll be interested to learn how you solve the issue.
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That looks like a good start on a nice kit.
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Hello titanif, welcome from another new member.
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