Pitan
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Been quiet for a few days, but, have made progress. The hull is fully planked Which looks good from the side, but - next time, I want to do better with the bow planking Work has been carried out on the oars - here as taken off the blank After filing and sanding I broke three of them during sanding, and again snapped one when setting up that photo . Next stage, varnishing...
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Thanks guys I did, and I meant it. Thank-you Steven. Smaller clothes pegs are available over here; easy to find in the online store named for a long river. Cutting the pegs (as Richard suggests) makes sense. I may do that for the next model (essentially this build is a rehearsal for the similar, if larger, Shallop). The build: Right now, I'm working on the clinker planks (?) Working these in opposed pairs, I've found a process that seems to work. Essentially, bend the plank, clamping it in place for the curve to settle (and, if damp, the plank to dry off). Once settled, file (bevel) the top of the preceding plank, using the frame's teeth as a guide*. The bevel helps deal with some of the vagaries in construction, giving a small additional gluing edge. * Could be done before bending the new plank to conform.
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Progress; The bench rails have been curved to fit the boat's ribs. Wetting the rail, I used a heat gun set low (a hair drier would have done) while bending, and a small sponge to keep the rail damp. This showed a (self-inflicted issue with the middle frame) That was solved by cutting the frame away from the floor (rib), and a bit of fettling before gluing the bench rail. (Side note, it is subtle, but I think I glued the correct rails the wrong way round ... the burnt side should face the boat's ribs.) Also bent and attached are the boat's inner walls. The same approach was used (wet + heat), though I feel the thin and springy wood used didn't need as much wetting. The current state of the build
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Not sure what I'm doing wrong, but I wound up using about 6.5 - 7mm of packing under the keel.
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Thank-you Steven. I had a look at your Venetian merchant ship, that was a colossal amount of research before even starting to cut your timbers. I went with a variation on your first suggestion, thinning the thick support. Instead of using the kit supplied part, I cut a couple of 2mm strips from the kit's plank sheets; much thinner than the intended part. These strips were laid as planks on the main transom, before thinning the whole to fit the model's stern slot. Even with thinning the transom, I succeeded in splitting the stern post(?) - seen repaired here. (Not the only part I've broken so far.) In that last photo, all frames have been glued to the keel, except the transom. The boat's deck has been bent to fit the keel (more bending is needed), and support strips added from my own stock (there is enough spare material in the kit for this, but ready cut strip was a simple solution).
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Thanks for this review. I chose this kit for my first wooden boat build.
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This will be my first wooden boat build, so lots of learning ahead. Please correct my errors in terminology. The build is of a 15th C rowing boat, kit by Pavel Nikitin, originally marketed as a "Santa Maria boat". References to Santa Maria have been dropped from the maker's website, though the packaging is unchanged. If you'd like to see the box contents, Ron Thibault has an unboxing thread, here: Construction has started. The first stages were to assemble the keel, skeleton jig (?), and display base. When in the jig, the boat will need support under the keel This is about 3mm thick, suspect we'll need more than that, much more A question. I get that we remove the char from the edges of laser cut parts, but, are we supposed to thin the frames too? I ask, because the transom (?) comes two parts, a thick support, and a thinner decorative face. I have several options here, Open up the keel slot to accommodate both parts Split the decorative face to pass either side of the stern post Omit the decorative face - this will leave a part number exposed Other? FWIW, the part numbers are burnt into the boat's frames along with the bevelling guides (?) Thinning these frames to hide the part number will lose the bevelling guides; part numbers will be unsightly if not removed.
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Looking good, despite the accident. I'll be interested to learn how you solve the issue.
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That looks like a good start on a nice kit.
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Hello titanif, welcome from another new member.
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Hello Turil, welcome to the forum, from another new member. p.s. I'm aware of several suppliers that offer Model Shipways kits - looking in the UK, google Model Shipways dory uk. Use other countries for your own searches.
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Thank-you, everybody, for the warm welcome. @Nipper I'll have a look at JBH's thread, and see what people suggested there.
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Hello, I'm Robert, from the Thames Valley, upstream from London. As a modeller, I've experience building plastic and resin kits, and of working with metal and wood. As to ship modelling, I'm very new. What lead me here? Somehow, Olha Batchvarov's videos started appearing on my YouTube. Watching her builds, and wanting to build something similar, drew me to this forum. Choice of first kit ... I'm very tempted by Pavel Nikitin's 'Captain John Smith's Shallop', but what would you guys suggest? Cheers Robert
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