FreekS
-
Posts
197 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by FreekS
-
Thanks Piet, My farther was born in Indonesia (well Batavia in Nederlands Indie at that time), so he was one of the Dutch that your father defended! And my wifes mother comes from Surabaya! Its nice to see y'all ( now where did I pick up that term) being even more impatient to getting O-1 wet that I am! But as Piet points out, these old submarines had many details on deck and since I will have to trim her with lead shot to within a gram or so I want nearly everything mounted before I do so. Now working on the deck, where two of my pictures show a nice wooden planked deck, similar to what K-XVIII had. making that is simple and fun work and then comes the hinges to the doors in the deck to load Torpedo's and such. They won't be functional and that's good as my metal working skills are nearly non-existent! Cheers Freek
-
Well, Ian, thanks for your interest in the maiden voyage of hr ms O-1. I am going much faster than my first sub (since i actually follow à fairly conventional build strategy instead of the hair-brained "bread and butter" strategy I used onnhr ms K-XVIII). There are several interesting dates in the diary, including August 16 in cologne with a very distinguished U-boot building club. Also a pool run in Belgium in September. But first I plan I have to finish most of the additions so I can then start to glue 2 kg worth of lead shot inside the hull and balance her fore and aft to a gram or so, in a plexiglass "fishtank" I have. Trimming will be a challenge as I have a "dry hull", and so while I can move weights, I cannot also reposition floating foam pieces in flooded areas of the sub. But then the pictures I have of her sometimes say "O-1 with crew and torpedos moved to the back so the mouth of the torpedo tube can be seen. It's not like this boat had a firm waterline. Thanks for all your interest - I will be sure to post pics and videos of a maiden when it happens! Freek
-
Dear friends, Started painting the boat, in colors close to the model in the Dutch Navy museum in Den Helder (and that I just happened to still have from K-XVIII!). Using normal brush - airbrush did not existing 1905!. "Tjetten" it was called. In spite of professional blue masking tape the waterline needs some correction. Freek
-
Piet, Thanks! I do believe though that the K-XIV to K-XVIII class also did not have bilge keels. Not on my model at least! Freek
-
Dear all, Lots more details made such as the stabilisers (Piet you can translate "kimkielen"!), and the stanchions on the deck, held in particular tiny holders. The stabilisers fins are again mounted with carton flanges impregnated with epoxy resin. Next step is painting of the hull followed by the deck planking. All for now again! Thanks for your interest! Freek
-
@Piet, bedankt voor het compliment! As with most ships, fotos indicate many changes made during the boats life. As this was the first Dutch sub, it was a testbed. In fact the drawings I have are of the "mid-life conversion" when the dangerous petrol engine was replaced by a Diesel. The early photos often show two short masts with stripes fore an aft, I think to help trim the boat. Later fotos seem to have three full masts with navigation lights etc. As my O-1 will be a working model, and those masts were clearly taken down for submerging, I will make the early version with the two "trim masts". As I call them. Another very visible feature of the boat are the flanges that were used to rivet the deck section and the fins to the pressure hull. Rivets themselves are only visible in dock fotos, I think they were probably hammered flat and covered with many layers of paint. I cut the flanges from 0.4 mm carton (so in rl they resemble 12 mm steel), and glued them on the boat. Next they were coated in thin 2 component epoxy resin to make the waterproof.
-
Subsail is over again. The technical bits of hr ms O-1 were finished on time and seem to work. However, the boat has not seen water yet as its unpainted. My other boat (K-XVIII) did get into water and even fired a torpedo but I had little chance to film in the pea-soup like water. On a short holiday in Switserland I took a box of tools, including my 15 W soldering iron. So after mountain hikes I could make some of the details. First the steering wheel, in the case of O-1 mounted outside the conning tower and horizontal. The coin for scale may be unknown to some, as the Dutch have discontinued it but the Germans have not. Here is the completed steering wheel, and the mast. This submarine from 1905 still had three masts (plus two periscopes). Also these old boats had lots of details, here a few thingies for tying ropes to, foundations for the fore and aft-masts, and guide-eyes for the (anchor?) chain (I have not found out yet if the O-1 had an anchor)! Greetings Freek
- 104 replies
-
- 10
-
-
Ok took me à while, but thats the torpedo propellor, not the ships propellor !! LOL Freek
-
Piet, can you explain the 31 mm remark? I thought 21 feet in length is about 7.2 meters in "real" measures, and sound make some 14 cm on your 1:50 scale. Also I think you should look for the V53 (53 in superscript) torpedo, that was the Dutch torpedo used by O-19 until they ran out and started using the Mark 8 I believe. It is however also 7.2 meters long. I'm pretty sure that the deck tubes were that long, and took these 21 inch Torpedo's or older 18 inch ones with an insert Freek
-
Thanks Piet! May has a number of long weekends! Last week I finished the insides of the O-1. Below picture shows how the servos have been put in place and these operate the planes. Behind them a waterproof bag is placed as a dive tank. It van be filled with about 200 ml water and should then submerge the boat. In the front compartment are the electronics controlling the pump, an automatic leveller so under water the boat will come to an even keel, and two LIPO accus underneath the electronics. The main functions have been tested dry, and tomorrow the O-1 will accompany the K-XVIII to a annual submarine model event in the netherlands (Seabottom Subsail). There I can get further advise of the experts and spend a nice day sailing K-XVIII. weather forecast is great! I'm switching again to outside work, planning to make the distinctive "eye" for the achor or mooring chain (not sure if she had an anchor!) out of messing, and also still need to make a square of messing rods connecting the fins holding the dive planes and rudder. Oh and here is another model in a Dutch museum!
-
Some further work on the stern. Last time I had built in the drive motor and tested it. Now I mounted the pump which will fill and empty the dive tank on the next bulkhead. On the photo you can see the tube drawing water from "the sea", and the black pump head of a 200ml per minute peristaltic pump. The pump motor is visible on the near side of the bulkhead, which can close off the stern section with one screw attached to that is a half-cut plastic tube which will hold all further technicals. In the next picture the assembly is closed and the pushrods for the planes can be seen. the servomotors to the side have been discarded as I want to have miniseries mounted on the pump motor to save space. And that is the next job! Freek
-
Dear friends, Last week I drove to Nürnberg in Germany with my K-XVIII submarine to sail her in a nice outdoor pool with a lot of other subs. I managed to get in over 2 hours of sailing before the batteries were exhausted. Fired three of my rubber motor Torpedo's and generally had lots of fun. Enjoy!
-
Here is the first test of the motor. I'm running it of a 12 Volt battery and measuring the current drawn. After increasing the power, the prop is making the bath into a whirlpool! I'm going to have to use lower voltage or program the controller to work better at low power settings. Good news is that even with .3 to .6 amps it's already running nicely, and the drivetrain seems well lined up. Freek
-
For gunner on seat see here http://www.dutchsubmarines.com/pictures/pictures_kxv_wwii.htm I think the seat could swing closer in than where Piet has it now. I have seen some pictures of a kind of cover structure covering the rear part of the gun when submerged. Not sure if it was actually used. Freek
-
With the rudders and dive planes finally mounted, I've turned to the inside of the boat. Here is an inside shot of the stern Parton the hull. The pushrods for the planes and dive planes end here inside a nut assembly that will contain an o-ring, sealing the 2mm think pushrods from the sea (well, pool more likely!). In the centre in the stern is a spring loaded shaft seal mounted in a wooden holder, the wood is thoroughly impregnated with epoxy. Behind the shaft seal is a short shaft running on three bearings, of which one is in the conus behind the prop. Next, I mounted the drivetrain. The small brushless motor is optimised for relatively low rpms (8000 or so) which should drive my low pitch but large propellor with not too much tongue (or current). I made a wooden motor mount which will be glued on one of the bulkheads. Behind the motormouth is just enough room for the stiff connection between the motor axle and the shaft. The motor is screwed on the motormount, and if I unlock the prop from the shaft, then the axle and motor can all be pulled out of the boat for maintenance. Next is to design how the servomotors will operate the pushrods; as you can see from prior photos, if bothe rudder and dive planes are swung out fully, they will hit each other, but when the dive planes are neutral, the rudder could swing out fully. As my boat is small and will be used mainly in swimming pools, I will want to get a small turning circle. So I have to do some thinking on how to regulate the operations of planes and dive planes so they do not interfere but give maximum manoeuvrability. Ideas welcome of course! Cheers Freek
-
Great looking gun Piet! Are you going make the seat for the gunner also? Freek
-
On K-XIV class the dinghie (het jolletje) was stored upside down. I think there would have been a drain hole or two in the bottom to let air out during diving (i made those on my RC model of K-XVIII). Those would be plugged bythe crew when used. With the jol right side up if would remain full of water and be hardto handle I think. But I don't knownthentrue answer for O-19! Freek
-
I think the dingie would be upside down! Build is fantastic! Freek
-
Hi all, the build continues - slowly, as usual! This week I have been working in the dive planes and rudder, both made from 1 mm messing, soldered to the shafts. I am not a star in soldering , but by cooling planes already mounted I got a strong bond. Only the little "balance planes" on the opposite side of the shaft proved impossible to solder without destroying the other connection, so I mounted those with 2 component epoxy. Seems strong enough. I filed off excess solder - the whole thing looks like it will work though it's probably not the very best looking part of the boat. Still have to polish and paint the planes though. The conus already contains one of the bearings for the shaft, and so it will be fixed by the propshaft, the planes shafts and the two wooden fins. The holes in the hull for the pushrods have been drilled, so next will be building and mounting the propshaft and motor connection, and the linkages to the pushrods controlling the planes.
-
Hello all, Moving aft with the build-I've been working on the fins that support the rudders and dive planes and the aft conus. On attached photo the shafts for the rudders and diverudders can be seen, provisionally mounted in their final position. The prop will have a bronze water-lubricated bearing inside the aft conus, which is further supported by the two shafts (rotating) and thin wood pieces of the vertical fins. Hope it will all be robust wrt the forces that may act on the planes in a turn or dive! The bearings are part of a large number of inside components that are underway from various Internet shops. Luckily I only manage to build a sub every 4 years or so, as the total cost of components is getting to be impressive. The main motor and propshaft have arrived - but I need the bearings to continue ! Freek
-
It looks like a simple model, that O-16 . but I'm sure that's deceptive! Every time I look in the box of the Admiralen klasse destroyer I think "wow that look like lots of small and complex parts" and then I reckon it's easier to build a working sub like the O-1! But I'm sure I will get to building those beautifull dutch models ! Freek
-
Looks really nice! What are you going to do for props? They can make the ship come even more alive! Freek
-
Today was another milestone. The prop I ordered from the props hop arrived! It looks fabulous! The prop has a diameter of 52 mm, has a small pitch (so a relatively small size motor can be fitted), and a 4 mm smooth hole for the shaft with a small locking nut. This is needed as with a threaded shaft it would become very hard to remove the prop once mounted. Now I plan to make sure the motor can be unscrewed and then the shaft pulled 'into' the boat. The prop will look like an integral part of the hull, as a small conical part of the hull continues behind the prop. The conical stern piece has two boreholes through which the "shafts" (probably not the right word) of the rudder and the dive planes will turn. Those will also turn on the horizontal and vertical fins of which two are shown in below pic. Lots of decisions to be made next. Do I let the propshaft continue into the conical stern piece and place a bearing there, or do I leave the stern piece "free hanging" and have both bearings inside the hull? How to rigidly fix the conical stern piece which will be fixed on top and bottom to the vertical fins, but not to the horizontal fins as that connection necessarily is a turning shaft for the dive planes. I think I put a pic of the stern of the real boat in an earlier post - it will be a complex build! Freek
-
In some of the books about Dutch submarines I think I read that the deck was regularly scoured with sand, resulting in a white look. This would have been common practice before the war when the boats were receiving visitors in harbour. When I made my deck planking on the K-XVIII the objective was to be fully wat proof so I choose 0.8mm by 1 mm waterproof birch triplex and added some clear, matt varnish. Freek
Our Emblem ®
