FreekS
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R/C ...WHAT TYPE OF GLUE SHOULD BE USED???
FreekS replied to Cap'n Rat Fink's topic in RC Kits & Scratch building
The glue is not the only thing that's important. The hull, when wood, needs to be sealed as otherwise a scratch in the paint can lead to swelling of the hull. Epoxy or polyurethane resins are commonly used for that. Both will need final coatings to prevent discolouration due to UV light. Freek -
After cutting the sub near the stern, I will now mount a bayonet so that the boat can be opened and a "tech rack" mounted in the stern section which can be pulled out of the bow section. As the bayonet is slightly smaller than the boat, I glued some wooden rings into the stern section. As this section gets narrower to the stern these rings can be firmly mounted. The bayonet fits well in this (but is not glued yet). The bow section gets slightly wider towards the bow, and thus the wooden rings have been fixed with three small wedges. These allow the ring to be precisely centred and allow the bayonet to be test fitted and the two halves of the boat connected. The wedges have now been glued in place and the next step is to fix the wooden ring with epoxy resin. This was definitely a slightly scary operation - but it looks good - though only when the seal is proven to be water- and air proof will it be finished. Freek
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In 1937, she did convoy duty in the straits of Gibraltar . general Franco had during the Spanish civil war issued a blockade of communist harbours and threatened to board ships in the straits of Gibraltar. The Spanish navy was divided into two, Francos Royalist forces and Communist ships which embarking Russion officers. O-16 was lying in Lisbon after her return from the US and was ordered to immediately disembark Professor Veening Meinensz, who had performed gravity measurements on board, and join up with hr ms Hertog Hendrik and perform war patrols in the Straits of Gibraltar with war Torpedo's loaded in the tubes and the boat ready for action. this support action for the pantserdekschip Hertog Hendrik was crucial, as the Royalist fleet comprised three 15 and 20 cm gun cruisers superior to the Hertog Hendrik. after two weeks patrolling she is relieved by Hr ms Java, hr ms O-13 and hr ms O-15 and heads for home. A nice example of deterrent by Dutch submarines. (de Nederlandse Onderzeedients 1906 to 1966) Freek
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It looks really nice, I'm sooooo tempted but I have yet to find time to build your Admiralen class model! Unbelievable detail! Brilliant! Freek
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Yes Piet! And with automatisch reload, after all O-1 carried two reloads for her single 18 inch torpedo tube (and the torpedo's had to be brought on board in three pieces and assembled inside!) Ive considered making a functional tube, but Then I'd never use KXVIII again! Also, considering how full my KXVIII is with electrical 'stuff', I know I'm going to struggle finding space inside O-1. Thanks for the interest - as always, and merry Xmas Freek
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Hi all, Of course first days of the holiday I have to catch a flu! Poor weather here but at least it gave me some time to work. The hull is now nice and smooth and I will add another layer of epoxy once I have enough of the superstructure to waterproof that as well. I made some ribs for the deck section and more or less finalised the sail. Here are some overview pictures - the shape of the boat is taking shape! The front part mounted on the bow is the torpedo tube door which pivoted open (in real life). But there will be so limited room and access in the boat that I decided against making this functional (and I'm no Piet!). Regards, Freek
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Very Nice Piet! Your gun looks much prettier than mine! maybe I can place an order? freek
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I finished planking the hull and after a first layer of epoxy I added two more layers with woven glass fibre to make a strong hull. Now I used epoxy putty to start evening out the irregularities in the hull. First time sanding after 18 hours gave a reasonable smooth hull though with some of the glass fibre weave still visible. So I just applied the second coat. Meanwhile I also started on the superstructure. As the dive tank inside the hull will need a volume equal to displacing all the materials over the waterline, it is important to build the superstructure light. I used 1.5 mm birch triplex for the frames and 0.8 mm for the hull plates above the waterline. This area needs to flood so I need to ensure the air can go out when the boat submerges. See attached an outline of the long and narrow superstructure. and below a detail on the drawing The sail of the original is mounted as a monument in the Dutch navy harbour in Den Helder Freek
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Piet, Surely there is a lot of uncertainty on which 40 mm was placed on which Dutch sub. See below discussion on Dutchsubmarines http://www.dutchsubmarines.com/pictures/pictures_mystery.htm On Dutchfleet,the gun on O19 is listed as 40 mm nr 2 (Vickers). That seems to fit with the pictures posted by Boris. http://www.dutchfleet.net/showthread.php/3867-Dutch-naval-guns But the uncertainty factor is high and if you have better info that would be interesting for many people. Freek
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Boris , Piet I found most of thos photos also when I searched for pics for my K-KVIII. I think Boris is right and the mount in the drawings allows the gun to turn vertical and then sink into its bun. I cannot say if the O19 had the same 40 mm as the K-XVIII. As for the deckgun, two of them are in front of the Navy museum in Den Helder, I believe these guns are from O21 and O24, but are similar or the same as the guns on the older subs. Freek
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Hello all, Hull is closed! Last planks have been shaped and mounted and after a night drying I used the band sander to shape the planks fit with the bow and stern pieces. Lots of sanding comes next - probably first with a little electric sander then with regular sandpaper. Glass"fabric" has been ordered with low viscosity epoxy resin to seal the outside with a protective layer. Will need to read up on how this is done ! After that comes the point when the hull needs to be sawed in two for attaching the bayonet. brrrr. Regards. Freek
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Hallo all, Planking is about 75% done, now I have to think about closing the gap and how to fix the last planks in place without using the small "vices" (klemmetjes). Also in front of the boat the small plane I used to shape the planks and the Bajonet closure which just arrived from Norbert bruggen. Norbert is a legendary model sub builder in Germany and sells all sort of usefull parts. However still lots of planking and sanding to be done!
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Ian, The hull will be 68 cm long, and 11 cm in diameter. The original boat was only 20 meters long, and the model is 1:32. At 125 tons displacement, the original was small, and the model will weight approximately 4 kg and have a dive tank, most likely a plastic bag, of about 500 ml inside the model I will need to fit - a motor with speed controller - batteries and receiver - pump for the dive tank (bag) with its controller - two servo motors with pushrods controlling the planes and rudder - quite a lot of lead to give stability and make up to 4 kg. The boat will be very full! Here's another picture of the original Freek
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Hallo all, Thanks for the kind comments on my rubber motor Torpedo's! Back to planking the hull. I'm shaping each plank with a mini plane, but progress is slow. I learnt I need to ensure the plank is fully pre-bent before mounting on the hull. Six planks done and I think I have the hang of it now - though at cost of removing one after it had too much tension in bow section. Certainly gives me a lot of respect from those of you creating much more complex hull shapes! Freek
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Piet, On my K-XIV class I saw the cable cutters only on pictures after the conversion in 1943 in US, where they received a new cable cut system. however the drawing shows the cutters, and the prewar pictures show a metal strip on which I think the cutters can be installed. could it not be the cable cutters were carried by the sub, but only installed when needed on specific missions? One other point - on the KXVIII the existing models in the Navy Museum show a red underwater hull. Other modelers had painted their KXVIII grey. Being unsure, I wrote to the NIMH (Netherlands institute of Military history) they reported they though the below water ship was dark grey, not red. My model first was red - which was great to keep it in sight underwater, but has now been painted dark grey. I don't profess to know the real colors. Freek
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INTERMEZZO I still owe Piet a video of the K-XVIII shooting a torpedo from the deck tubes. Here's a mini video build log of the work I did to make the torpedoes operational - using rubber motors as the propulsion method. Hope you will enjoy the 5 minute film - the sub shot is right at the end Freek
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Thanks Anja! On my birthday I made the bow and stern from wood left over from my frigate project. Using a band sander I got the pieces nicely in shape and even prepared the muzzle of the single 18 inch torpedo tube that the O-1 had. More time went into checking the frames and correcting small deviations. I started making the planks, from 3 x 8 x 600 mm wood. These were narrowed at both ends and after a few hrs soaking were clamped in place to bend them into the required shape. I made about 5 of 30 planks so have to do a few more! Note how small O-1 is vs K-XVIII ! Freek
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Dear Piet, just on the off chance you missed it, the KXVIII anchor is clearly visible on the bottom of the dry dock. Yes KXVIII did not have a keel anchor, or had two traditional anchors in the bow. Freek
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Dear Piet, here is a picture of the anchor of the KXVIII. Looks very similar to what you found for O-19 Freek http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e241/Freek_Schepers/c12ababe34f0ec43350357d71ff86168_zpsdee9b676.jpg
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Thanks all for your kind words! Yesterday I managed to stiffen the pressure hull by inserting wooden blocks in-between the frames. This will help the planking of the hull - without taking away from the room inside the boat. The boat seems straight and next step is for me to verify the accuracy of the frames with a plank, and to start drawing the complex bow and stern pieces - which will be the end-points for the planking. Also late last night we performed the age old ceremony of fixing an old coin in the keel. We selected a 1 Dutch cent coin (no longer in use since the euro) from my birth-year and with the image of Queen Juliana on it. This tradition hopefully assures 'een behouden vaart' - safe travels over the high sees.
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Hi John, I plan to install a bayonet closure roughly 1/3rd distance from the stern. All the technical pieces will then be mounted on a rack attached to the stern part and pulled out of the front. It will be tricky to mount the motor and propellor assembly and the pushrods used to operate the dive planes and rudder. So the whole hull will be dry and waterproof. This is a fairly well known way to assure waterproofness (though I have not used it before). The main challenge will be to find space for all the technical stuff (receiver, speed controller, motor and servo motors, batteries, pump for dive tank (waterproof bag) and electronics to control it all). But first the hull - next to the waterproof cigar I'm making now the boat has a flood able deck, a single torpedo tube and a conning "tower" with periscopes and masts. Freek
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Hello all, This is my first build log on the forum, and my third ship overall. The first was a Dutch Navy contemporary frigate Zr Ms de Zeven Provincien, and the second a world war 2 submarine, Hr Ms K-XVIII. Both are radio controlled and both hulls were made with the bread and butter method. That worked out very well for these larger vessels but now I intend to build a much smaller sub and will need to be much more economical with space. So this will be my first hull built out of wood with planks on ribs. Hr Ms O-1 was a Holland-class submarine built as a private venture by Wilton Feijenoord and sold to the Dutch Navy when it has passed some trials set as condition for her purchase. In subsequent exercises she proved very capable to defeat the then surface ships of the Dutch Navy. She patrolled the North Sea during WW1 (but thankfully the Netherlands remained neutral throughout that conflict). The Holland boats have beautiful lines, and I was hooked when I saw a working model of an Austrian Holland class at a meeting in Lichtenstein some years back. Please feel free to comment and advise as I have some experience, but little in this kind of hull building especially. Groeten, Freek
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Piet, It looks very nice! On my KXVIII I did the reverse from you, I did not create plating, but did "suggest" where the plates are through the application of over 5000 rivets. Like you, many pictures show the plating, but it's still guesswork especially as these ships were partly welded, and the riveted joints covered in paint ( through constant "tjetten"). The rivets were offered by a forum member and were bought on a sheet, easy to cut and apply, and the subsequent paint fixes them in place. Still working on my torpedoes, I'll get a video as soon as they work every time. Love your build! Freek
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Best Piet, I built the rotation torpedo tubes from Aluminium tubing. - two servos operate Bowden cables which rotated the doors open (sigh) and then rotate the mount - A spring loaded pin perpendicular to the tubes locks the torpedo in place, and when the mount rotates 90 degrees it hits a stopper which withdraws the pin and unlocks the torpedo. The torpedo itself has a rubber motor and its prop is blocked by a small pin in the rear of the tube. - the torpedo is then ejected through a small elastic band in the slot on top of the tube - the ejection process then results in unblocking the torpedo and the rubber motor starts I've gotten the rubber motor to drive the torpedo (at scale 1:50) about 2 meters, at good speed. Crude, and I'm still optimizing! Freek
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