Decoyman
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Decoyman got a reaction from Saburo in HMS Naiad 1797 by albert - FINISHED - 1/48
That's beautifully neat work. What timber are you using - is it pear?
Rob
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Decoyman got a reaction from chris watton in Newsworthy updates from Chris Watton
I vote for HMS Phoebe (1795).
She seems to have had her bulwarks raised at some time and there is a model at NMM Chatham (http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66546.html) showing her in this condition, but her original lines look elegant (http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/82450.html). There is also a framing drawing available (http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/82464.html - useful for the super-detailing?).
She has an interesting and eventful history, including being Nelson's signal ship at Trafalgar (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Phoebe_(1795)).
Most importantly (for me) she has the same name as my daughter, so I have been toying with making a model of her for some while!
Rob
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Decoyman got a reaction from Canute in New 18"x10" table top for the Byrnes table saw.
I use my Byrnes saw for a lot more than just shipbuilding and one thing I think would be helpful is to have a longer table as well as a wider one. Or at least an extension before and after the fence to support longer, more flexible pieces.
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Decoyman got a reaction from mtaylor in New 18"x10" table top for the Byrnes table saw.
I use my Byrnes saw for a lot more than just shipbuilding and one thing I think would be helpful is to have a longer table as well as a wider one. Or at least an extension before and after the fence to support longer, more flexible pieces.
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Decoyman got a reaction from Allanon in HMS Agamemnon by Decoyman - FINISHED - Caldercraft
I think this comment might be fairly obvious, but the fact of the matter is I'm having trouble maintaining my enthusiasm for rebuilding my Agamemnon log.
However, despite the lack of evidence and a coherent storyline… I have actually finished! The whole thing!! It's taken me 11 years, 2 months and 3 days exactly. I have no idea how many hours I have spent on it, but it's a lot. The entire build was done on our kitchen table, which meant having to clear away before every meal and share it with my children when they did their homework. There are two lights hung quite low above the table, and when I got to the masting stage I bashed them nearly every time I moved the model from the top of the piano to the kitchen. Nevertheless she's still in one piece. Here are a couple of pictures:
She's very difficult to photograph most of the time because either she's against a wall, which results in an overlay of confusing shadows, or she's on the table with the lights in the picture and the kitchen clutter in the background. I took her out into the garden for the final shots, but even that isn't perfect. I'm considering getting some professional pictures taken in a studio, but for that I'll need a car with a higher roof.
I hope you like it!
Rob
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Decoyman reacted to Alex M in HMS Sphynx 1775 by Alex M - Scale 1/48 - English 20-Gun Frigate
Hi all, a little update from me, slowly process...
Alex
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Decoyman got a reaction from nehemiah in Frayed lines
Sewing shops sell beeswax in a little plastic containers with slots. Like this:
You drag the thread through the slot and across the surface of the wax. Easy!
Rob
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Decoyman got a reaction from BobG in Byrne's Saw Reference (also good for other desktop hobby saws)
Charles,
Your explanation of Scrubby's fence - if I understand you correctly - suggests there is a machined 'bow' to the blade side. I've checked mine and it is dead straight. Perhaps Jim has changed the design of his saw, but it looks to me as though the whole fence is misaligned. Also the blade seems offset in its slot, although that might just be the photo.
Attached are photos of my saw showing the fence almost exactly parallel with the guide slots in the table and the slot for the blade.
IMG_4338.HEIC IMG_4336.HEIC
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Decoyman got a reaction from mtaylor in Looking for homemade or cheap solution for heating & soaking planks
I should try the hot (soldering?) iron trick. Up until now I have assumed that the small contact area would be disadvantageous, but, on the other hand, the associated cost is essentially zero, if you already have an iron. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Decoyman got a reaction from thibaultron in Looking for homemade or cheap solution for heating & soaking planks
I should try the hot (soldering?) iron trick. Up until now I have assumed that the small contact area would be disadvantageous, but, on the other hand, the associated cost is essentially zero, if you already have an iron. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Decoyman got a reaction from Canute in Looking for homemade or cheap solution for heating & soaking planks
I should try the hot (soldering?) iron trick. Up until now I have assumed that the small contact area would be disadvantageous, but, on the other hand, the associated cost is essentially zero, if you already have an iron. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Decoyman got a reaction from Canute in Looking for homemade or cheap solution for heating & soaking planks
I'm thinking of getting one of these, with the strap:
https://luthiers-bench.com/products/bending-iron
This is because I might build a lute, but also because I can see the use for shipbuilding.
Rob
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Decoyman got a reaction from Bob Cleek in Looking for homemade or cheap solution for heating & soaking planks
I should try the hot (soldering?) iron trick. Up until now I have assumed that the small contact area would be disadvantageous, but, on the other hand, the associated cost is essentially zero, if you already have an iron. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Decoyman reacted to Bob Cleek in Looking for homemade or cheap solution for heating & soaking planks
While this example appears to be the "Rolls Royce" of bending irons and is priced accordingly, In my experience, bending small pieces of wood over a curved hot iron is a particularly good method. The iron supplies the heat and each side of the piece can be offered up to the iron alternately, speeding up the initial heating of the piece. Thereafter, shaping is accomplished by bending the piece directly on the iron. No heat is lost between the heat source and the bending and heated wood loses its flexibility quite rapidly as it cools. If the wood resists the bend, one need only slow the rate of bending, i.e. apply less force, and let the heat increase to permit flexing to a sharper curve, thus avoiding much of the risk of breaking the piece. Given the cost of this appliance, since most of us won't be bending the sides of a cello, the side of a soldering iron will suffice.
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Decoyman got a reaction from thibaultron in Looking for homemade or cheap solution for heating & soaking planks
I'm thinking of getting one of these, with the strap:
https://luthiers-bench.com/products/bending-iron
This is because I might build a lute, but also because I can see the use for shipbuilding.
Rob
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Decoyman got a reaction from mtaylor in Looking for homemade or cheap solution for heating & soaking planks
I'm thinking of getting one of these, with the strap:
https://luthiers-bench.com/products/bending-iron
This is because I might build a lute, but also because I can see the use for shipbuilding.
Rob
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Decoyman got a reaction from thibaultron in Byrne's Saw Reference (also good for other desktop hobby saws)
Charles,
Your explanation of Scrubby's fence - if I understand you correctly - suggests there is a machined 'bow' to the blade side. I've checked mine and it is dead straight. Perhaps Jim has changed the design of his saw, but it looks to me as though the whole fence is misaligned. Also the blade seems offset in its slot, although that might just be the photo.
Attached are photos of my saw showing the fence almost exactly parallel with the guide slots in the table and the slot for the blade.
IMG_4338.HEIC IMG_4336.HEIC
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Decoyman got a reaction from thibaultron in Byrne's Saw Reference (also good for other desktop hobby saws)
Thanks, Charles - i'll look them up.
Kind regards
Rob (Decoyman)
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Decoyman got a reaction from thibaultron in Byrne's Saw Reference (also good for other desktop hobby saws)
That's really helpful - thank you again. All I have to do now is find a piece of 22 mm aluminium....
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Decoyman got a reaction from thibaultron in Byrne's Saw Reference (also good for other desktop hobby saws)
That's very helpful, thank you.
I have a lathe too, so I might have a go at turning up a spacer. If it's not too much trouble, how do you normally do this?
Best wishes
Rob
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Decoyman got a reaction from thibaultron in Byrne's Saw Reference (also good for other desktop hobby saws)
Thanks, Keith. Both, actually. I have two broken teeth on the carbide-tipped blade that came with the saw and my slitting saws are blunt!
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Decoyman got a reaction from thibaultron in Byrne's Saw Reference (also good for other desktop hobby saws)
Can anyone recommend a supplier for blades for the Byrnes saw in the UK? Not having much luck finding anything and the odd company that seems to have something vaguely similar (for example, same diameter, wrong sized arbor) is remarkably expensive.
Rob (Decoyman)
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Decoyman got a reaction from Canute in Byrne's Saw Reference (also good for other desktop hobby saws)
Charles,
Your explanation of Scrubby's fence - if I understand you correctly - suggests there is a machined 'bow' to the blade side. I've checked mine and it is dead straight. Perhaps Jim has changed the design of his saw, but it looks to me as though the whole fence is misaligned. Also the blade seems offset in its slot, although that might just be the photo.
Attached are photos of my saw showing the fence almost exactly parallel with the guide slots in the table and the slot for the blade.
IMG_4338.HEIC IMG_4336.HEIC
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Decoyman got a reaction from Canute in Byrne's Saw Reference (also good for other desktop hobby saws)
Thanks, Charles - i'll look them up.
Kind regards
Rob (Decoyman)
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Decoyman got a reaction from mtaylor in Byrne's Saw Reference (also good for other desktop hobby saws)
Charles,
Your explanation of Scrubby's fence - if I understand you correctly - suggests there is a machined 'bow' to the blade side. I've checked mine and it is dead straight. Perhaps Jim has changed the design of his saw, but it looks to me as though the whole fence is misaligned. Also the blade seems offset in its slot, although that might just be the photo.
Attached are photos of my saw showing the fence almost exactly parallel with the guide slots in the table and the slot for the blade.
IMG_4338.HEIC IMG_4336.HEIC
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