Jump to content
MSW Spring Donation Drive

bcochran

NRG Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    577

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by bcochran

  1. bcochran
    I probably will not finish them. I am coming close to the end of my time to model.
  2. bcochran
    The white cabin and deck house panels were there during Cutty Sark's wool ship days. I am pretty sure the panels were varnished teak during her tea clipper days and today. I don't know whose idea it was to paint them, but the reason, I understand, was to cut down on the labor it took to varnish all the teak. It is the same reason the masts were shortened, the spars were shortened, and the stunt sail booms were taken off. So it depends on what period you want to model, since the Cutty Sark's appearance changed over its life. I am trying to model her during the late 1880's when she set most of her speed records. Also, during that time all the spars, wood masts and bowsprit were painted black. So that's how I will model her, no stunt sail booms and black spars, wood masts and bowsprit boom. I am no expert on the Cutty Sark so what I am saying I got from other people online and from pictures taken in the 1880's. I don't know if Revell's masts and spars represent the cut down versions or not. I guess you could measure them if you can convert 1/96 measurements to feet and inches.
  3. bcochran
    I put the HisModel brass "cutty Sark" on the wheelhouse. It's held on with Pledge Floor Care liquid. It is basically a clear, thick acrylic liquid that is tacky until it dries. After it dried, I painted another coat of Pledge over it. I am not sure how permanent it will be, but I won't be touching it. I learned to use acrylic liquid, putting clear lenses on model cars and canopies on model planes.
  4. bcochran
    Here are a few pics of the Revell USS Constitution I was working on before I started breaking parts off. I could not get the deck to look the way I wanted. I detailed the gun deck, even though you can't see it. I am anxious to do another one if and when my Cutty Sark is finished. I keep the busted Constitution on hand for inspiration. In my stash of large ship models, uncompleted are the Heller Victory, Santa Maria, the Revell Yacht America, Kearsarge, Constitution and Lindberg Sea Witch.
  5. bcochran
    I am building the same kit. I haven't come to the rigging yet, but I am planning for it. I have several sources for rigging clipper ships that I am reading. I think it is good to know your subject before going ahead and trying it. My references say that most clippers were rigged basically the same. Sailing ship rigging has a definite purpose for each type of rig. My suggestion is to get some references about rigging clipper ships and understand the purpose of each line, then you can decide for yourself where each line starts and ends. I know when it comes time for me to rig my model, I will have every source I can read and understand why and where each line goes.
  6. bcochran
    As I am not going to materially change my Revell kit, you might say the Revell kit is my plan. I have the Campbell plans and I like reading them. I have mostly looked at photos of the ship in its wool days. I can imagine Woodget deciding for me what colors the ship should be.
  7. bcochran
    Hi Kevin, I thought I would drop over to your build. This isn't the first time here. My impression is, even if you don't finish, the components of your ship are fantastic models in their own right.
  8. bcochran
    I ordered from Amazon some 26 gauge white floral wire. I think it would look good with black deadeyes on the pin rails.
  9. bcochran
    I’ve seen some completed wood Cutty Sark models online where most of the fittings, deck houses, monkey poop cabin are all out of proportion. The rigging may be correct or not I couldn’t say yet. But these are considered fine builds and reproductions of the real thing. My Cutty Sark will fall into that category because I don’t want to put in the time and effort to research and fix every item that is out of proportion and I lack the talent. All the fun would be gone, and I’d feel I was on a quest or something. The search for the most accurate Revell Cutty Sark. That ain’t me. I do admire those who do, though. Their work is amazing. Once I entered a model airplane in a model contest. I did an exceptional job turning a not to detailed model into a very detailed one. I did not know about dipping canopies into clear floor polish to get perfectly clear canopies. Mine were not clear, all the others were. I was not even in the honorable mention. Boy did I feel dejected. Ever since, I developed the good enough for me attitude. If other people like it, that is icing on the cake. As for the rigging, I am reading a lot about it. I like the idea of learning something new in my old age. I will be 76 next month. I understand there is a reason for every line, and knowing that I want to again represent “harbor” rigging just as I want to represent the bulwarks. Not to perfection, but pleasing to my eye. Most of the people who would look at my finished model if it gets that far will see a bunch of string going this way and that, but I will know there is a method to that mess of string.
  10. bcochran
    I am going to strop the deadeyes with wire which will be long enough to pass through the pin rail and waterway, where I will superglue them at both places, that way the pull or strain will not be on the pin rail,
  11. bcochran
    I have snapped a bunch of the belay pins off just painting and attaching the pin rails to the bulwarks, I drilled out the place where they were and put in plastic rod.
  12. bcochran
    Today's state of affairs
  13. bcochran
    Everything you posted so far on my build is ok by me. I like your sense of humor, too.
  14. bcochran
    Hello Kevin, Per Longridge the Cutty Sark had 26 bulwark stanchions per side. There were 5 different types. I wasn't going to go into that much detail making 5 different types and I did not add the horizontal bar portion to them. Here is how I judge what I am doing and how much work I want to put into it. If I can look at my model in any particular place and feel that it looks "shippy" all though it is just a representation, I am happy with it. Those wedges just did not look right, nor did the bulwarks without the lozenges. I have the starboard side done, and I get the right feeling when I look at them. The other major thing that I think doesn't look right are the Revell deadeyes. I look at some builds using them and there is an angle to the plastic deadeye and the rope tied to it, rather than a straight line from the lower deadeye to the point on the mast where it ends. So I am going to attempt to use individual deadeyes. I used Krylon metallic bras spray paint on the binnacle. I like all the detail you are putting into your model, and feel much of it is beyond my talents. I know nothing about 3D printing. I wanted the deck to look better than what I could have done with the plastic. The rest of the detail just would not be so pleasing to my eye if the deck didn't have the same level of detail. The pictures I am including with this post is a model that is in the Mormon museum in Salt Lake city. It has always been my inspiration to build a ship model. I needed my deck to have the same level of detail.
  15. bcochran
    I am not going to replace the belay pins. I read most of the other builds where the correctness of the Revell Cutty Sark kit is discussed. I am amazed I made it this far. I almost completed the large Revell USS Constitution up to the beginning of the rigging and spent a lot of time agonizing about the correctness of that kit, including what color she was in 1812 on her last voyage, did she have gun port covers or not? I added hammock netting, railing around the deck openings, thickened the hull around the gun ports and lots of other things until it got too boring and time-consuming. This time I decided not to do that, or I would never finish.
  16. bcochran
    Shipman, In Noel C. L. Hackney's book on page 35 about making eyebolts, he says "with 3/4 inch rod formed to a 2 1/4 inch hole and 1 inch rod formed to a 4 3/4 inch hole". What in the H E Double Hockey Sticks does that mean? Is he talking about actual 1 to 1 scale, or is it some magical 1:168 Airfix scale measurement? Later he says to bend 40 SWG wire round a 1/64 inch drill for the small ones and bend 38 SWG wire round a 1/32 inch drill for the large. Of what useful information is his first description of what to do? What ever, how big are the eyebolts that he is telling you to make? This makes no sense to me. I bought some model railroad HO lift rings on eBay to use for making jackstays. The seller said they were 2 1/4 inch size. I ignored that because it made no sense, I know what size HO lift rings are, so I bought a ton of them. I got them, and they are more like N Gauge lift rings. I sent them back as unusable for my purposes. Why do these people use such meaningless information? What I need to know is the size of the actual eyebolt I am buying not what 1 to 1 scale size they are.
  17. bcochran
    Starboard pin rails
  18. bcochran
    This experiential deadeye was colored with a white paint pen and a sharpy.
  19. bcochran
    They are little ginger bread deadeyes so that if I get tired doing this I can eat them all.
  20. bcochran
    I ordered some white floral wire. It will take a few days to get here. I am not sure if it will work. I was going to blacken the deadeyes with a magic marker.
  21. bcochran
    I use a pin vice and slowly drill the hole. The thing that is touchy for me is to not break the belaying pins off.
  22. bcochran
    I have his book. I am reading Underhill's "Masting and Rigging" to get a basic understanding of standing and running rigging.
  23. bcochran
    I drilled holes in the pin rail for the deadeye strops. These holes will be used to drill holes in the waterway. The strops will have a long wire end which will be glued to the waterway and the pin rail. I used the kit deadeyes to mark where the holes should be drilled. I am experimenting with a deadeye.
  24. bcochran
    White panels on the starboard bulwark,
  25. bcochran
    Thank you. What size thread and what composition (linen, silk, cotton ?) would you use to rig the dead eyes of my size? I am just learning about rigging. I am reading Harold A. Underhill's book "Masting and Rigging." In the article about the building of revell's Cutty Sark in Model Ship Builder Jan/Feb 1986, the author rigged the deadeyes off the ship because of their position next to the bulwarks. I might try that.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...