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bcochran

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Everything posted by bcochran

  1. I am getting to the point where I can't put off thinking about the lower shroud deadeyes. I think I have settled on my method. I will use the HisModel deadeyes and strops. I painted the sides white and colored the deadeye with a sharpie pen. I superglued the deadeye in the right position and superglued a piece of black annealed steel wire to the strop. The wire will be superglued into a hole drilled in the waterway as I first intended. The only problem is to make openings in the pin rails for everything to fit through. This is the 3.5 mm deadeye. I will do the same for the 2.5 mm ones. They need to sit a bit above the pin rail for looks and access to the lanyards. I will practice with the lanyards on this test deadeye before gluing. I think I can reeve them ok after they are fixed in place. I'm learning new things with building this ship model as apposed to building an auto or plane. The time it takes to build a ship is longer, the skill sets needed must be developed if not already a part of my being. As I go, I must invent the wheel so to speak or learn from someone else if I am to build this ship into the one I have in my mind. The decision to be made is to find a way to build an area so that pleases me, then go on to the next hurtle and tackle it until it pleases, or just take Revell's base instructions and build at that level, or give up. So far I have gone beyond Revell's instructions, and I am not at the give up stage. I am lucky to have the people on this web forum and the reference material available. I have put over two months into this model. I've had many goofs and do-overs that teach patience. There will be a few more months to go, but I hope to complete it, get it into a protective display case and leave it to someone when it comes time to go meet Davie Jones. One thing I learned from building other kinds of models is to take a close-up picture, and you can see areas to improve that you didn't notice without the picture. The minute I see an area that needs repainting or something, I stop and correct it on the spot. If I put it off, I will forget where it was.
  2. I rigged the port anchor per Campbell, Longridge and Hackney, making a simulated anchor release gear. There are four sizes of chain here. Longridge's fig 68 drawing looks to me like the starboard cathead not port. The whisker boom is toward aft. Another Revell discrepancy that Kevin might want to remedy with 3d printing, Revell's trail board is too big per the actual ship and Campbell. But then the photo etch won't fit if you make it smaller. Oh, the woes of perfectionism.
  3. The idea I have in my mind is to use single strand copper wire with a white coating. I haven't found any at all. I am going to an electronics store to see if I can find it.
  4. I found this chain at Michael's. It looks to me to be good for the chain rigging on spars and such. I soaked it in gun blue for a few minuets to turn it black. It only costs $1.
  5. Here is another idea for the deadeyes. These are from HisModel. I would possibly add lanyards off the model, after painting the deadeye black and the strop white. Then superglue them on the pin rails. I would hope that all I need for support and the tension is to glue them.
  6. Bowsprit chains are done. Soon to finish up the bow rigging and the anchors, then on to the masts and their details. Maybe I'll have a good start on the standing rigging by next week. All my lanyards will be black.
  7. I changed the lanyards to black for the chain rigging on the bow. I think it looks better than tan thread, since it is not as visually outstanding and is more accurate representing tarred rope. Yes, they look bulky. Chalk it up to being a model with inaccuracies. Looking at other builds, mine are similar, this being my first shot at rigging. I need to do the shorter one over, so the lanyards are the same length I think.
  8. I am going to visit the San Diego Maritime Museum next Tuesday. I especially ant to get a picture of the bell on the Rose which still says Rose for Snug Harbor Jonny.
  9. I played with the idea of using black for lanyards. I may go back and redo mine. One reason is so that they don't stand out visually as much.
  10. Thank you, Popeye. I have built planes, cars, trains and some boats in plastic, so assembly and painting are not new to me. I've had in mind how I wanted my Cutty Sark to look for a long time. So I put my plastic model skills to work on this ship. I have never completed a ship model as far as rigging. The other models I build take a much shorter time to complete. With this build, I keep telling myself that I have no deadline other than the day I meet Davie Jones.
  11. I made eyebolts. I didn't realize that he was talking about actual dimensions that you can scale down to what ever size your model is.
  12. I was able to get the photo etch decoration on the trail board. It is not as fragile as the stern decoration. I used gell superglue. It gets a bit cloudy if you goof up and move the etching around. You need to put it in the right place the first time. I still need to paint the connecting points black on the etching.
  13. I have tried and failed five times to put the photo etch decorations on the stern. I am completely frustrated with it. I hope to get a set of the decals that came with the kit somehow. I am not going to try a sixth time. I am tied of removing glue and repainting the area. The photo etch is just too fragile for me to handle. I'll move on to the rigging, but I must admit I doubt my ability to complete that. I am at my lowest point since starting this model. I hope to get my confidence back soon. If anyone has a set of the decals to this kit and can part with them, I would rally like to have them.
  14. Looks to me like you will have the most highly detailed Revell Cutty Sark there is online anywhere. I am envious of your skills. I know for myself, if I tried to put that much detail into my model, I would never finish it.
  15. This is my first piece of chain on the bowsprit with two bullseyes. To those who have done rigging, it isn't much but to me who has never done it before it is a big deal. I added 2 more chains. I am not sure if it looks right or not. Then I did the other chain with thicker thread. I still don't know what looks right.
  16. Back to my ship. I put some gammoning on the bowsprit. I added some plastic pieces below the bowsprit as the part of the ship the bowsprit is gammoned to. I used some 45 links per inch chain. It is not as good as I would have liked, but this I will keep. Some days you can't make a mistake. You just fly through the modeling that you are doing and everything comes out right, easy as pie. Then there are days like today when all I get done doing is fixing goof ups and causing more.
  17. I have to put the Cutty Sark on hold for about a week. I need to get some G scale trains together for a memorial weekend train run at the Best in the West Machinery show.
  18. The masts are built. I'm beginning to rig the bowsprit and jib-boom. I ordered HisModel's blocks. I don't know how to strop them yet, but I will learn. At his website's photographs, there is a very good build of the Cutty Sark. My goal is to do as good or better. I am starting to feel better about rigging. I think my model is looking less and less like plastic. I am doing over things that were complete, but I was not 100% pleased with. In my mind, I have a level of quality I am willing to accept. If an area or part is not up to that standard, I'll do it over until it is.
  19. And to think I am worried about rigging the Cutty Sarl in 1/96. I love to look at your pictures of your work.
  20. I've changed my mind about the music wire. It does not look as good as chain. I drilled a hole in the bumkins after they broke off when removing the wire. I drilled a hole in the piece left in the hull also and superglued a piece of the music wire in the bumkin and hull. Now they are mounted well and I added chain. The rear bumkin chain needs to be added after the stern decorations.
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