marktiedens

Hey all, I'm renovating an old cabbin so there's only a small update. I finished the deadeyes for the mainmast:
 
 

 
/Matti

Build log part 50
 
 
 
doing the folded and tied hammocks for the netting, after blackening the brass mesh and fastening it onto the hammock cranes Here starboard side, port side and QD ballustrade still to be done in the same way
 
I did several Trials first until this version was given the go...
 
 
 

use ordenary parcel wrapping paper with a light structure in the paper in length direction (resembles the rather much worn / greasy Color of the mens canvas bedding. All rolled up over a 2mm drill
 

the dark lines resemble the tie bounds of the hammock
 

1 mm drill used at the inner side for folding Support (two equal long parts)
 

mini laundry clampers hold the folded part
 

the folded "hammock" is supported with a drop of PA glue (till dry), so there will be no extra spreadwise stress on the netting
 

view from outside
 

view towards the bulwark
 
 
 
 
Nils

Ulises - that was me. my kit had walnut & boxwood planking for the second layer of planking but there wasn`t enough of the boxwood to do even one side.As I recall the boxwood was supposed to be used between the whales.I had enough of the lime to do the first layer of planking.

Have reworked the galley chimney a bit this afternoon....
 
 
 
 

exhaust will be turned to face leewards, resp. out of the wind
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 49 to follow...
 
 
 
Nils

One more thing about Mamoli - be sure and inventory the kit. Every Mamoli kit I have done was short either wood or metal parts.
 
/Mark

July 21 2014
Progress in planking the second stern deck.
Doing it very slow to make it as good as my possibilities allow.
 
 

Hi everyone!!
 
After some days off I made a little progress with the shrouds and stays.   For that I use the pictures of the 1:10 model, Clayton´s page and some imagination or common sense.  Here some pictures:
 

 
Main mast
 

 
Foremast with some details (not all finished)
 

 
Saludos and thank for watching, Karl

I'm now working on the channels and dead eyes for the mainmast. Here's a compilation of Vasa deadeyes. Their shape are very individual from piece to piece, some are almost circular other very irregular.
 

 
I like this and want to try and imitate that on my model. I use the round deadeyes that comes with the kit and sand everýone.
 

 
After the shape is ok it's time for some finegrit sanding to remove any edges and giving the surfase a handmade look:
 

 
I do this óne mast at the time to avoid getting to much repetative work. After this stage its time for making the metalparts that sits around the lower deadeyes.
 
 
/Matti

Build log part 48
 
 
 

Rudder / tiller rigged
 

 

 

front ballustrade with ships bell (bell found from Christmas decoration)
 

 
 

and mounted, note : no sidewise spaces, because Access to forecastle deck is by integrated stair
 

the bits on the four front Posts still to be done
 

horizontal layed spare mast parts find their Support Areas...
 
 
 
 
Nils

I took the Corel chainplates and modified them using Michael's technique with the J-B Weld product mentioned above.
I never used this product before, but I found that once it dried, the chainplates were very flexible and the product was able to be sanded easily. The only problem I ran into was drilling the holes for the nails. If I did not clamp the chainplates before drilling, the J-B Weld would split apart.
 
The J-B Weld product applied and then let dry for 24 hours

 
Chainplates with the J-B Weld product sanded down flat


 
Bending of the chainplates into the rough shape

 
Test fitting onto ship channels

 
Once they were fitted, I took them off, drilled the nail holes, painted the chainplates, then glued and nailed to ship




 
Now onto the other side to repeat the process. After I will add the rings for the blocks and the finish wood piece for the face of the channels.
 
Thanks,
 
Frank

I remember filing down the metal frames & finish the outer hull before mounting the gun barrels. I`m sure that with my skills I would have knocked every gun barrel out while fairing the hull. If I was to do it again I would throw away the metal frames & use a U- channel for all the dummy barrels like the Corel system. Just my opinion,however what some people find difficult others find easy.
 
/Mark

Thanks for all the likes, everyone! It's a nice feeling to have more likes than posts Anyway, work continues.
 

 
As per other build logs, I installed some nails into the keel to keep it stable because a great heavy mass of metal decorations will be cantilevered off the beakhead.
 

 
The keel is also attached to the false keel by means of wooden dowels. Even with no glue, the whole shebang is rock solid!
 

 
Planking has now proceeded to below the level of the wales, and up to the second deck. Not shown are the blocks to support the dummy guns. These things are virtually impossible to photograph, because they are painted black against the entire lower deck, which has also been painted black. This is a good thing, because I don't want to see the dummy blocks. It IS a bit difficult trying to locate the holes for installation of the dummy guns when everything is black though.
 
BTW, the second deck fit perfectly a few weeks ago when I was fettling it. Now, with all the planks in place, somehow the deck won't fit! After quite a bit of cursing and a lot of anxiety (did I somehow distort the shape of the ship when I planked it?) ... it all measures correctly. Phew.
 
As you can see, the second deck is also painted black. The rear section has been covered with foil for lighting.
 

 
I was not sure how to route power into the ship. You can see a little excavation which I dug out on the false keel because I was planning to put a connector there. Then I hit upon a simple idea - why not simply electrify the support rods that I was planning to install anyway? I soldered the wire unto a nut and installed it.
 

 
We have no lights ...
 

 
AND NOW WE HAVE LIGHTS! EUREKA!! The idea worked!!!
 
As you can see, the LED's are SMD's (surface mount diodes) which are absolutely tiny. I glued them to a block of wood and then angled them outwards slightly. Yes, I know that Euromodel supply metal plates in place of windows, so you will never see the LED's if you build the ship as per the kit. However, I plan to fabricate my own replacement windows. I'm not sure how i'm going to do that, given that I have never made windows as small as this before, but time will tell ... I'll think of something! I hope!
 
That's it for now. I will install the garboard planks and then work the planking upwards to close the gap.

Hey all! I got some work done. I wanted to have one of the gratings covered as a nod to the real one at the museum. I also made the mainsail sheet blocks and after that I could start with the mizzen lanyards. It was very different from what I've done previous in modelbuilding, and I needed to start all over once to get them sitting ok at the top. I know it's far from what you guys manage, but I will knowledge my limits and settle with it. Hopefully I can pick up speed later on cause now it's snail speed.
 
Some pictures:
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
/Matti

Build log part 47
 
 
 
 
 

view to the interior
 
 

sternplate supports
 

fitted two more outboard steps at the top, now 7 steps per side
 

 

fitted the focsile deck with all its "underneath", the catheads glued in place, removeable chimney of the galley oven mounted
 

Overall deck view
 
 

fitted one additional post to both the ballustrade side rails
 

starboard anchor cable tied to the Messenger, portside cable put on the bit
 

the QD stair, when used, fouls a bit with the capstan spars on the gun deck, but I take that in account, and whoever does`nt see it won`nt bother anyhow
 

supports to the 4 foremast rigging posts
 
 
 
 
Nils

Further fitting out by the shipyard....
I think I should wait with mounting part permanently around the closer mast areas until the rigging beging done, asume I shall need operating space to mount the blocks an pulleys of the running rigging.
I know and remember that well from the tallship builds
 
 
 
 

stairs (ladders), entering platforms, and chain pumps
 

chain pump discharge boxes with drainplugs, chain secured. The box discharge openings are closed with vertical slide panels
 
 

gallows before the main mast
 

chain pump crank Levers and bearing supports (all in dry fit)
 

the hulls upper siderails in this area still Need finetuning. The step from QD to platform is about one footlength high
 

I did`nt make up my mind yet if there will be a rudder-deckhousing fitted or not. At least the ruddershaft shall be shortend a bit. The tiller will be rigged as the Amati plan shows...
 
 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 47 to follow...
 
 
Nils

Well,as usual I made a couple of errors on the rigging already.I had the mizzen topmast stay all wrong & re-did it. Also forgot to add the bowsprit mast stay. The crowfeet rigging is a real pain but I got it done - more to do later on the running rigging.I had some nice rigging hooks left over from another build so I used them on the mast tackles (the ropes & pulleys between the lower deadeyes).
 

 

 

 
/Mark

Thanks again Michael. I am currently trying to decide whether to forge ahead with the rigging or set this ship aside & wait for the book.I`m thinking it may be close to Christmas before the book is out. Like I said before there are so many little errors in the build that a line or two out of place won`t make much difference . I do have the Corel version I could work on although the thought of building two Vasa`s in a row may make me crazy .I have been to the Vasa sight & Clayton`s site numerous times & think I have most of the rigging figured out.Clayton used the most recent info of the rigging from Fred at the museum so it should be fairly accurate.
 
/Mark

Thanks again Michael. I am currently trying to decide whether to forge ahead with the rigging or set this ship aside & wait for the book.I`m thinking it may be close to Christmas before the book is out. Like I said before there are so many little errors in the build that a line or two out of place won`t make much difference . I do have the Corel version I could work on although the thought of building two Vasa`s in a row may make me crazy .I have been to the Vasa sight & Clayton`s site numerous times & think I have most of the rigging figured out.Clayton used the most recent info of the rigging from Fred at the museum so it should be fairly accurate.
 
/Mark

Well,as usual I made a couple of errors on the rigging already.I had the mizzen topmast stay all wrong & re-did it. Also forgot to add the bowsprit mast stay. The crowfeet rigging is a real pain but I got it done - more to do later on the running rigging.I had some nice rigging hooks left over from another build so I used them on the mast tackles (the ropes & pulleys between the lower deadeyes).
 

 

 

 
/Mark

Thanks Michael. I have been going back & forth between the Corel rigging plans & pictures of Clayton`s model to try & find the differences.The Corel plans seem fairly close but there are some differences. The fore topmast stay is fastened to the bowsprit with a simple block & pulley instead of crowsfeet for one.I also found that there were no pinrails on the inner bulwarks - the belaying pins go right in the caprails so I tore off all my pinrails that were on the inner bulwarks & put the belaying pins right in the caprails. I actually managed to not damage anything while removing them.There are just a few small holes where they were pinned to the bulwarks but they are not noticeable.
 
/Mark

Build log part 46
 
 
yesterday I started with the QD ballustrade and its rails and supports, further some of the belaying Pins and Frames for the hammock netting (in height of the Crew`s neck and head )
 
 

checking out the height for a horizontal resting of the spare mast-parts, so that the crew has enough space underneath
The focsile deck gallowbeam (rest surface for spare mast parts) is only 4mm from deck allowing a horizontal lay-on, this causing the mid deck gallow Support to be 36,5 mm from deck with its rest surface
 

 
 

Little knobs at the rail ends
 

 
 

belaying Pins and hammock net frames
 

protection for head area
 
 
 
 
 
Nils

Very nice Matti! I wish I had found this forum before I was so far along on mine  - I would have done a lot of things differently.
 
/Mark

Hola Mark,
 
It appears that you are having the same problem as me, saying that, I think the better solution is what we consider the most accurate and forgetting doing the exact replica of the rigging, because, as Matti said, the original rigging didn´t survive.  Seeing your advances I am happy that you are ahead of me, so I can see your solutions     
 
Saludos, Karl

Nice work Karl. I am doing the same thing with my rigging as the Sergal rigging plans are pretty much a waste of paper.The Corel plans are much better but there are some differences I am finding by looking at other builds like Clayton`s. Sounds like the Vasa rigging book may not be out for a long time yet & I don`t really want to wait that long.There are enough inaccuracies in my build that a few wrong lines won`t be noticeable anyway.
 
/Mark

Hey everyone!
 
I have done some work on the cleats and rigging details to start the actual rigging. It was harder than expected to get them thinned down, and not breaking them. Having this done means I can now start with the rigging. 
 

 

 

 

 
 
/Matti