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cdrusn89

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Everything posted by cdrusn89

  1. cdrusn89
    Centerline furnishings added as fancy rail (lower) is added. Masking tape is to allow for touch-up painting with less chance of getting black paint other than where it was intended.
  2. cdrusn89
    With the first three sections of the lower fancy rail in place I reconsidered my earlier decision to not "populate" the centerline features until the qdeck railing was complete. looking at the upper fancy rail I now recognize how "tender" and "in the way" that I likely to be when in place so I think I will populate the centerline pieces as the lower fancy rail is completed moving aft at the very least before the upper railing is added. Hatchway railing in place. I used 3/32" X 3/32" boxwood as the starting point. The 1/16" X 1/16" material that I have is "less than it might be with respect to dimension consistency. Besides I think I had about a 25% success rate when I used the 1/16" X 1/16" material I have. Anyway I drilled the back two stanchions all the way through in one dimension (fore and aft in this case) and then into that drill hole from the other side making a "T" shaped "passageway" through the square part of the stanchion just below the "ball" at the top. Then I used a piece of .020" piano wire to adjust the stanchions for verticality and then for alignment with the edge of the hatchway. Medium CA was used to secure the stanchion to the hatchway with a .032" "pin" in the bottom of the stanchion. The piano wire was replaced with .020" phosphor-bronze wire which has yet to be painted. I used piano wire while making the adjustments because it is much stiffer than the phosphor-bronze and much less likely to get bent or distorted with repeated handling. I would keep the piano wire but trimming it to an exact length is very difficult and likely to cause collateral damage. The other stanchions were drilled through in one dimension and a similar technique employed to get the stanchions and wire aligned. After the CA had set to hold the stanchions, I put a drop where the wire exited each stanchion then clipped the wire off flush with (more or less) the stanchion. Hopefully a coat of flat black on the wire and touch-up on the stanchions and this will be "done".
  3. cdrusn89
    The first sets of the qdeck fancy rail ion place. Things lined up relatively well although getting the short post into the "hole" in the base was somewhat of a challenge. That "hole" is made up of the junction of the first two pieces of the lower cap rail and it is possible that the opening is not as big as one might like. A word for those who build this later. If you decide to include the eyebolts for the gun carriages on the qdeck be careful adding the eyebolts as doing so makes the posts, which are already a pair based on the height (lower aft) but now are differentiated port and starboard by which side the eyebolts are placed. It is entirely possible to mess up and get the eyebolts on the wrong side - don't ask me how I know. It is probably best to dry fit the posts and mark which side the eyebolts go on BEFORE you start drilling holes and certainly before you glue any eyebolts in.
  4. cdrusn89
    The centerline decking is complete (no WoP yet) and the binnacle, ship's wheel and capstan are in place (dry fit for now). I have the breastrail assembled and awaiting another coat of paint. I will probably not glue any of these pieces down until I have the fancy rail and transom rail done. Too many things sticking up presenting more opportunities for disaster - especially at this late stage of things.
  5. cdrusn89
    Here is my finished (except possibly for some touch up paint - it look better in "real life"). Although it is probably impossible for anyone else to ever notice but I did glue a compass rose to the two "disks" inside the binnacle. I should have painted the disk edges white too but... And now I have a .jpg compass rose image that can be printed to whatever size I might need in the future. Ships wheel is almost done so I better get busy and complete the centerline decking so I can start the qdeck railing.
  6. cdrusn89
    Thanks Scrubby - unfortunately I am moving to a new (to me) house and going on a two week cruise in 10 days so whatever is done by 8/15 is likely to remain that way for sometime. I am losing my dedicated workshop in the move and am guessing that re-establishing it is pretty far down the priority list of "she who must be obeyed" as Horace Rumople (of the BBC/PBS series Rumpole of the Bailey) put it.
  7. cdrusn89
    Thanks Frank - your planking job puts mine to shame. Working my way fore to aft on the centerline planking. I am using 3/16" wide planks since that is what I used on the gun deck and it is what is shown in the plans. I had to reposition the mizzen bitts a bit to get them even with the outboard edge of the aft coaming - not sure what I was thinking when I first put them in. Anyway, I am still undecided on whether to plank over the main cabin and if not how to "end" the planking aft of the after-most hatch. I will get the ship's wheel assembled as soon as I get the parts from Chuck (hopefully today) and have started the binnacle assembly. And I finished up the last eight cannon/carriages so they will be ready when we get to the waist.
  8. cdrusn89
    After looking at my model of Confederacy I decided that I might like to include a ship's boat on skids amidships as is shown on that model. I looked around for a 1/48th scale ships boat and the only thing that came readily to mind is the "18th Century Long Boat"; another Chuck Passaro model available from Model Shipways in basswood. So while taking a break from Winnie I built the model, outfitted it as if it were to be used both with oars and/or sails and here it is sitting approximately where is would be if I added the beams across the waist to hold it. I have not decided whether or not to include it on Winnie but it is "ready" if I decide to go that way. FYI - although it is not obvious in the picture I used the frieze from Winnie on the hull of the long boat as a substitute for the frieze that is included with the long boat kit. As used on Winnie the frieze was too large. When I tried printing the Winnie frieze from Chuck's web site the scaling function did not work but if I saved the file and opened it using the Acrobat reader I could print them at whatever scale I wanted. I ending up using 50% but then had to use two pieces on each side. The frieze will be more obvious if the long boat is mounted on the skids. I also managed to get the timberheads at the transom reattached, adjusted to the correct height (based on the provided template) and got some filler in where part of the transom got carried away. Need some paint and probably more filler too. The stern rail is one of the last things in Chapter 10 so I have some time to "get this right".
  9. cdrusn89
    I completed the planking down the port and starboard sides of the qdeck and have two coats of WoP applied (a third goes on today). I have the hatch coamings and the capstan partner installed and the mizzen bits in place (glue is drying as we speak). I will start planking between and around these items shortly although I am still deciding on whether or not to plank over the great cabin (aft of the last hatch). I am trying to find 1/48th scale furniture (a desk, table and chairs might work out) to place in the great cabin and then not plank from the aft hatch to the transom. If my search is unsuccessful I am still toying with not planking that part as I am not sure it adds anything and would be another area to show my ineptitude at planking where tapering is required (and looking at the template every plank must be tapered). So here is the qdeck at it stands now. However, before I start the planking I need to address a near disaster at the stern. An inadequately stored piece of 1 X 12 pine fell on the stern and broke off all of the timberheads on the transom. In at least one case it took part of the transom with it. At the moment I have the two port most timberheads reattached and am trying to figure out how to get the others done and then patch up the damage to the transom. While I am at it I will get the timberheads trimmed down in preparation for the aft rail but it may take some effort to get the timberheads reattached and in one case I may have to "start from scratch". I have decided to deal with this before I start the planking. Here is what the stern looks like with the stern rail template in place and two of the six timberheads "back in battery" more or less.
  10. cdrusn89
    Fo'c'sle is now really complete thru Chapter 9 - added the spanshackles and eyebolts. Working the qdeck planking and assembling the hatch coamings so I can start the centerline planking.
  11. cdrusn89
    Chapter 9 is complete on fo'c'sle except for the spanshackles and the eyebolts on the mast partner. I am waiting until all the paint is dry before I create any more wood shavings/sawdust. Boy that flat black paint seems to attract dust like a magnet. So here is what it looks like at this point. I added some cannon (just sitting there no glue/pins yet) which I originally made for the Confederacy kit (I did not like the Britannia metal cannon in the kit) only to find out when it came time to install them that there were too tall to fit through the gun ports. So at least I can use 6 or 8 of them on the Winnie.
  12. cdrusn89
    I also broke both pieces, one of them twice. Having bought both cherry and AYC packages for Chapter 9 I found the cherry pieces to be less susceptible to breakage and used thin CA on the entire piece before handling it too much to try and stiffen it up some. I am not sure it helped but I did get the starboard side done without breaking the cherry piece. I "think" I have the port side ready for final install and have not broken that one yet.
  13. cdrusn89
    Starboard side fo'c'sle railing is complete including the spanshackle cleat and cat block. I did have one significant issue early on the in that the outside bulwark on the fo'c'sle was too short. The waterway would have been just above the top of the outboard bulwark WITHOUT the deck planking. A similar issue on both sides (thank god - not sure what I would have done if it were only on one side). I have no idea how this came to pass beyond my lack of attention to details at some point or points during the hull construction. I added a 3/32" "filler" on top of the existing bulwark to permit the planking/waterway combination to reach just to the top of the bulwark at the aft end. I added another "layer" of fancy molding to cover the outboard edge. Inboard I just painted it red. Looking at the outside the sharp eyed can see the extra row of fancy molding and on the inboard side you can just see the extra "filler" at the aft end. It does not look terrible (IMHO) but does beg the question of what impact this might have on the work yet to be done at the bow. On to the port side and then the qdeck planking.
  14. cdrusn89
    Thanks Matt - I think now that it is done that maybe the CA was "belt and suspenders" so I will probably dispense with it on the other side. I still have the port side fore railing and the decking on the qdeck to go in Chapter 9. Chapter 10 maybe off in the future somewhere as I am moving to a new house on 8/15.
  15. cdrusn89
    Now that the decking is complete the next step is the timberheads and railing on the Fo'c'sle. I would mention that the railing piece is quite fragile (don't ask me how I know) so care must be taken getting the timberheads installed in the rail. Trying to get the railing in place with all the timberheads remaining in their "holes" provided to be harder than you might think. To avoid having to do it on the model I painted the bottom and sides of the rail and the part of each timberhead below the rail off board. Then I assembled the rail and timberheads upside down and painted the junction between the rail and the timberheads with the flat black paint to attempt to get them "attached" but not "glued". Once the paint was dry the timberheads stayed in place while the rail was turned right side up placed on the model. I used white glue in the holes in the lower rail to attach the timberheads to the hull and one by one seated the timberheads into the holes. I had to break the paint joint on a few to get them seated and vertical but overall in went "okay". I used stripes of blue masking tape to apply some pressure to keep the timberheads against the hull. It was the only solution I could come up with given the space and other constraints in this location besides using my hands and sitting there for half an hour while the glue set. I was reluctant to use CA to attach the timberheads to the hull because I thought even the thick might set too quickly to allow for whatever adjustments might be necessary. After the timberhead/hull connection is set I will add a drop of thin CA to the joint between each timberhead and the rail and then CAREFULLY paint the top of the rail and the timberheads.
  16. cdrusn89
    Dry fit of the belfry and rail. This is the cherry belfry which I have decided is the one that will be mounted after the Fcastle rail is installed. Likewise I will use the cherry mast partners to keep the "theme" going. Working the cat heads now. Am really not looking forward to cutting into the bulwarks after so much work getting them finished. But....
  17. cdrusn89
    Fcastle decking completed - not the best job of locating hatches - the sharp eyed will notice the decking is somewhat thinner outboard of aft-most coaming. Even using the laser level it is hard (for me) to get the short pieces of decking lined up correctly, especially when there are obstructions in the way of the level light. Or I might have the hatch coaming slightly off-center, or maybe a bit of both. WoP next then deal with the cat heads and install the belfry and belfry rail. I have decided to go with the cherry belfry (and mast partners although I have not assembled them yet) to provide some contrast with the boxwood decking.
  18. cdrusn89
    Dry fit of the Fcastle coamings and the belfry rail. Need to fit the gratings and work on the deck planking. Starboard side outer planking done (in boxwood like the gun deck) - no WoP yet. By the way I am having trouble getting oil based WoP in the "Clear Satin" finish - this is what I have been using for the entire build but now all I seem to be able to get is "Warm Satin" in the oil base. I can get Clear Satin in the water based so will use that if I have to. I have a bit left of the old one but I have to thin it as it comes out of the can like honey.
  19. cdrusn89
    I was looking for a way to get the timber-heads in the belfry rail oriented vertically. The timber-heads have the base cut at the "appropriate" angle but I was trying to see what the orientation looks like BEFORE it goes on the model. So I got a spare deck beam (one of the long ones) and marked the center and then using the drawings marked where the timber-heads should be. Then I clamped the deck beam to the cutting sheet making sure the two ends were lined up on one of the horizontal lines. I inserted the timber-heads into the rail (after gently sanding the inside of the openings). Then I held the belfry rail on the deck beam at the marked location and gently moved the timber-head until it was aligned with one of the vertical lines while maintaining the rail against the "stop". Then using a thin CA applicator (old sewing needle with half the eye ground off) I put a drop of thin CA on the junction of the rail and the timber-head. Rinse and repeat. I have to get the planking on the Fcastle done before the belfry and rail are installed to avoid likely damage during the planking so it will be awhile before I see if this "worked" as planned.
  20. cdrusn89
    The cherry belfry. I am waiting on some parts for the AYC version. I haven't decided which will go on the model yet. It looks better "from a distance" and the top is not yet glued on. I am strategizing how best to do that.
  21. cdrusn89
    The "easy" stuff first - the cap rail at the waist. I did not have to do anything special to get the 5/16" strip to cover the rail so my fairing job (at least at the waist) must have been sufficient. Keeping busy with adding the inboard bulwarks while also building the belfry. Will fit the drifts and rounded rails as time and paint drying permits. Masking tape is to keep small pieces and sawdust out of the completed areas. Even my mini vacuum has a hard time getting into all the corners. Trying not to make cleaning up any harder than necessary.
  22. cdrusn89
    Chapter 8 completed fore and aft. On to Chapter 9
  23. cdrusn89
    While working the knees and beams at the bow I also completed the carlings and mast partner at the stern. They need a final coat of WoP but other than that this end of Chapter 8 is DONE.
  24. cdrusn89
    To "close the gap" on the fore mast partner I "grafted" a piece of the carrier sheet onto the partner and than sanded until I got it to fit. Yes there is a line where the additional piece was added but there will also be lines on both sides from the carlings are on each side of the mast partner so maybe it will not be too noticeable. With that in hand I built the built and painted the riding bits then dry fit everything, including the long ago built stove. Looks pretty good to me so on with cutting the carlings and gluing in the forward set of riding bitts.
  25. cdrusn89
    I apparently was a bit too zealous in "adjusting" the locations of the forward deck beams. When it came time to install the fore mast partner the provided piece is about 5/32" too short. The hole is extremely close to matching up with the coat in the gun deck when positioned as shown so I am assuming that it is the fourth beam back from the bow that is too far forward. I had to trim the lodging knee to accommodate the hanging knee at that beam so I would not have noticed the alignment problem until now. I am going to fabricate a replacement but am now worried about what other impacts this "misplacement" of the forward deck beams may have.

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