cdrusn89
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Everything posted by cdrusn89
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While waiting for the filler to dry on the transom I decided to continue the sail work on the main sail. The main is attached both to the mast with hoops and to the gaff with lashings. I decided to do the easier one first - hoops. I am using the Guttermann polyester thread as a substitute for that provided in the kit as I want to make sure I have enough to do this kit as well as Sphinx And I am terribly wasteful of rigging line. I think 600m will probably last me a lifetime. So the mast hoops are on the PE sheet which I previously cleaned (very important to clean the brass before painting - don't ask me how I know) and painted flat black. Using the drawing I determined that the hoops are 14-15mm apart and so I used a sharp awl to make a hole in the edge of the sail and threaded a piece of line through the hole. The through the hoop from the bottom with one side of the line and in from the top with the other. Then a simple overhand knot against the side of the hoop. Tighten the overhand knot while keeping the hoop to sail junction tight - it helps to have something handy to keep the sail from moveing. A very small drop of thin CA to seize the knot. When the CA sets, cut off the excess thread - I use cuticle clippers as they are quite sharp and easy to get into tight places.
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- Saucy Jack
- Vanguard Models
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Since very few people (thanks Jacques) seem to be looking at these posts I will have to be content with they will be here in case someone else actually builds the Saucy Jack. I am building it because it will fit in the designated (by she who must be obeyed) location. I probably would not have chosen it otherwise. So here is the jib on what will be the jib stay with all the appropriate lines/blocks attached. I also attached the top sail to the yard using the drawings as at least the starting point. On a less cheerful not I found that I did not adequately protect the stern of the vessel while handling it during the multiple iterations of sanding an filling. The upper portion, with the openings broke off - several times actually and finally I had to perform major surgery to remove the upper section of both the inner and out transoms. I decided that since I am unlikely to be able to get all the openings properly sized and spaced i would just fill in the area and call it done. I also decided to paint the interior transom area the same green as the stripe down the side. Although it does appear I made the stripe wider than instructions show and may decide to paint the hull all the way down to the wales green. So here is the stern repair waiting for the glue to dry and then some filler (maybe) and paint. The "B" means back as opposed to "F" for front so I did not glue it on backwards - the surgery was not completely bilaterally symmetric so the orientation matters.
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- Saucy Jack
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While waaiting around for paint to dry and other "lulls" in activity I started to look at the sails. I purchased the "premium" sail set from Vanguard and they are a good deal more "finished" than the ones supplied with the kit. I started with the jib. Looking at the drawing (Sheet Plan 11) it is not easy (for me) to understand how the jib is attached to the jib stay except that it occurs at nine places (corners excepted) at the junctions between the several panels of material that make up the jib. I have sailed on a sailboat (mostly much smaller than the Saucy Jack) and the jib in those cases is attached to the fore stay with "hanks" which can be anything from spring loaded clips (on very small boats) to quite complex metal devices. For Saucy Jack I opted for the simplest (for me) implementation of a hank using 28 gauge annealed steel wire. I started by punching a hole in the jib at the edge using a sharp awl. Then I treaded a piece of 28 ga wire though the hole. Next I used the smooth end of a #40 drill bit and wrapped the wire around the bit with the two ends crossing on top on each other. I removed the drill bit and used a pair of lineman's pliers to squeeze the two wires together where they cross and cut the ends off close to the crossing point. I carefully put a drop of medium CA on the junction and held on for a minute or so for the CA to set. To "fly" the sail I will route the jib stay through the wire loops before terminating it at the bow and attaching the halyard and associated tackle. But there will be a bit in the future as I still have to figure out the other sails as well as finish the hull.
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I remasked the waterline. It turned out about 1mm above where the filler ended most places. I will start the flat white in the morning. I painted the hull/tape junction with Tamiya XF-86 Flat Clear as I have heard that this helps to seal the junction and further reduces the prospect of the spray getting under the tape. I thought about using the Tru-Color flat clear I had left over from something else but I wanted a water based product so I ordered the Tamiya from Hobbylinc.
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After three trips to the paint booth with filling and sanding in between I think I have the hull ready for the "final" waterline marking and then painting the below waterline portion flat white. Before doing the "real" waterline I carefully (I think) sanded down any ridge on paint/filler that developed while doing the fill/paint/sand routine. Here is the hull before I mark the waterline.
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Pumps and gun deck hatch coamings and gratings ready for eventual installation. Will probably add another coat of WoP before (or maybe after) installation
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- Vanguard Models
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The four ladders assembled and varnished. They are in their own "to be installed later" box and identified per the carrier sheets IDs. These were easier to assemble than some I have had occasion to build. I think principally because the slots for the steps are cut completely through the side. Others just burned an indented slot in the side and getting the steps to line up with and stick to that slot was not all that easy. These went together quickly and I use medium CA to glue in the steps as the outboard sides, with any glue mess is covered by the engraved ladder sides.
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Proceeding apace I got the chain pumps assembled and varnished. I also built a Syren 1.25" ship's wheel from the mini-kit. It is a little larger (by about 3mm) then the brass one in the Sphinx kit. I will assemble the brass one later and decide which to use. Syren also makes a 15/16" wheel kit but I think that would be too small. Here are the pumps and the wheel. I think I may move on to the stairs next. I always seem to have a problem getting them together. Mine never seem to go together as "smoothly" as the instructions would indicate.
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Both sides planked to the transition to stern post. I used full length planks until the last one since the fit is kinda critical at each end. Moving to garboard plank now then work up toward what is already done until that proves unworkable which may be sooner than I might hope.
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At last - the outer bulwarks and first row of the second layer are done. I am using "medium CA" to glue the planks down - instructions say "gel" but my "thick CA" is really thick and says it is "gap-filling" which is not some thing that would be helpful if the CA fills a gap that needs to be occupied by a plank in the next row. The transition from the transom to the side planking did not go as well as I had hoped. I cut some small "filler" pieces and jammed them into the openings then had to modify the ends of the first row of planks to fit into the remaining opening. I am not sure how this is going to look after a bit of sanding but it will have to do as I am fresh out of ideas to make this area look better. At least it is somewhat consistent from side to side.
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I am still fiddling around with the stern pieces. Can't seem to get everything to fit as they should. While slowly dealing with that I have been assembling the so called deck furniture. I have the fish hatch, companionway and forward hatch assembled and have applied (by brush) a coat of Wipe-on-Poly. I will add the rope to the hatches after the poly is dry. FYI - I am using Syren .018 Ultra Tan line for the hatch lines. In fact I am using Syren line in most everyplace I can. The smallest they make is .008" so I am using the provided (or similar) for the .1mm (.004") lines both dark and light. Here the hatches drying along with the line on my makeshift spool.
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For those of you following the customs duty "saga" - UPS stopped a second time this PM and I now have both the Sphinx and Indy kits. Customs (or whatever) charge was $45.67 total for both kits. Pressing ahead with Saucy Jack until Monday anyway.
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This is my first experience with customs duty on stuff from the UK. I bought HMS Speedy a few years ago and although I had to certify by signing some form that the MDF in the kit was "okay" in some sense there was no customs duty. Likewise with a number of purchases from the SipwrightShop but never anything like the value of a Sphinx kit. Interestingly I also have an Indy kit coming and the customs duty (or whatever the charge) is the same as for the Sphinx in spite it being almost double the cost. It is an ill wind - two more days to work on the Saucy Jack. might get the second layer of planking done by Monday.
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New Sphinx kit has been delayed again - now $45.67 is customs duty is due "at delivery". I tried paying UPS on-line but that did not work for some reason so they will attempt delivery again on Monday - I will be sure to stay home Monday! Anyway I have been working Saucy Jack and some of the other pieces of the Sphinx. Here are the upper and lower capstans and the rudder (as far as I can go I think without the hull) joining the other pieces in the "to be installed someday" box.
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When I went to add the outer "patterns" to the keel I noticed that in addition to the slots not being equidistant from the ends they are also not equidistant from the top (or bottom). Don't ask me how I know but it IS possible to get them on "upside down". I believe the correct orientation is with the larger portion toward the bottom of the keel. It IS possible to get at least one on the other way but the difficulty getting the second one on caused my to re-examine things and come to the above realization. I moved on to the lower counter outer "pattern". Having learned that it is entirely possible for the part to slip while adding the rubber bands I decided to form the part first and then glue it down. As I have seen before, when completely dry the pear wood will retain the shape assumed when wet. Once that is done I will go back and add the outer keel (and stern post) patterns and get on with the second layer of planking.
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New Sphinx kit has been delayed - now due Friday. Will concentrate on Saucy Jack and trying to bring some order out of the disorder before starting the new hull.
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Thanks Rick! Anyway i got the rest of the spars completed and have the appropriate blocks and such attached as per the instructions. The bowsprit and boom still have some extra length that makes for a handy place to grab them while applying the Wipe-on-Poly. For the spars I did that with a small disposable "brush" as trying to use a cloth is very hard around all the "stops" that seem to be attached at every opportunity. I also have the hull in good enough shape to proceed. to my dismay I find that the primer plus filler that I previously bought at an auto parts store is no longer carried. IO tried some Rust-oleum Primer plus filler from Walmart but I either bought the wrong one or this is a very different product from what I used before as the filler clogs up the sand paper in very short order - which did not happen with whatever ir was I used previously - of course I do not have a can lying around. So now to trim up the over long spars and start preps for hull planking layer 2.
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The rudder ready for the paint booth. I will take a chance that I can use this rudder to set the waterline on the new hull. Otherwise I would have to leave the rudder "as is" and wait until I have the hull waterline established which is probably several months in the future. And I can always build another rudder although I would not be looking forward to cutting the heads of another six dozen brass pins. I believe the new Sphinx kit will be here Thursday. I am still trying to figure out the best way to proceed without becoming hopelessly confused about which part is where. That is a big enough problem with just one box (and a large box it is) to content with.
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Main and top mast completed just need to add the line to the double block on the aft side of the lower mast cap - it will be the throat halyard for the gaff. The two pieces are not yet glued together. Too much opportunity for damage with long, thin "things". Working the other spars and the hull is in the paint booth for its first coat of primer + filler. Will let that dry overnight and the prepare for the second "try". The replacement HMS Sphinx kit looks to be here on Thursday so I need to keep pressing on the Saucy Jack. I would like to get it to the stage where I can work on it a little at a time while I rebuild the Sphinx hull.
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With filler on the port side of the hull drying I turn my attention to the spars. Six spars but only three (bowsprit,main and topmast) need tapering. I am not crazy about the dark colored wood but since they are all the same and since making relatively long thin spars out of rectangular stock can get pretty tricky I will use these. Also - no painting so one less thing to accomplish.
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The first layer of planking is complete. The starboard side has the first "coat" of thinned filler applied and some of the filler "straight" (see below). The port side planking has the 50/50 PVA/H2O that was painted on the last few rows of planking drying. On the starboard side there was a significant discontinuity between the bulwark planking and the first row of planking near the bow. Clearly there was some problem with my fairing of the hull in that area. So I will attempt to fair the two areas together with filler so the second layer will not make a repeat performance. I will try and get this layer smooth using several courses of thinned filler, 220 grit sandpaper. and auto body spray paint with filler. That course of action worked (finally it seemed like a dozen courses but was actually significantly less) on the hull of HMS Sphinx.
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Six rows on each side. I used split planks for both rows five and six as making things"fit" at both ends is harder with a single plank. And there are no extra points for doing it the hard way. Successfully made the transition to the stern post. I had to add a little "sealer" to the starboard side. If I could just do this well planking Sphinx I would be a happy camper. Next is to add the garboard strake and then work from there back towards the sheer.
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The stove joins the anchors in the "to be installed someday" box.
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So on to the stove. Assembly per the instructions proceeded apace until I came to the doors and covers on the top and side of the stove (firehearth I think it was called). Anyway the objective is to get the doors/covers which have two holes in each aligned with the holes that are in the sides/top of the stove assembly. The holes as provided are pretty small; smaller than a #76 (0.200"/.05mm) drill bit. To give myself a fighting chance of getting the holes lined up I drilled them out to #76 on the doors/covers and stove. I cut two pieces of .020" phosphor-bronze wire (two slightly different lengths but long enough to stand proud of the stove side/top when inserted and stopped on the far side/bottom (aka workbench). Then I threaded the door onto the wire. Two different lengths makes this a bit easier. Slide the door down the wires, placed an ever so small drop of thick CA under where the door will land and pressed the door down and once seated used a toothpick to hold in place while gently removing the wires. Forgive the pealing black paint - these parts were oversprayed while painting something else and had not been prepped so the paint is not sticking and I sanded some of what did stick off so the CA will bond the metal not the paint.. Hopefully all will be better once the stove is assembled and finally painted. So the "proof in the pudding" is whether the handles will now fit into the doors/covers since that was the whole purpose of have the holes line up in the first place. Not so fast - the handles are square (maybe rectangular) in cross section and the holes are round. Turns out, at least on this version the handles are too big to fit into even the drilled out holes. I had to go to a #74 (.0225/.57mm) drill to get the handles to fit. There was enough friction getting them it that I did not use any glue - they are just "sitting there". The numbers on the wood were put there as they came off the carrier sheet although as it turns out they are pretty "self-identifying". Now on to the chain drive and flue.
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When I got to the port side fifth row I decided to split that plank. This is the plank (at least on this side) that completes the more or less horizontal run of planks - the next row will start up the stern post area. I had to do a little surgery on the supporting bulkheads as I thought there was too much vertical movement at the very aft end of the plank. But in the end I think it worked out okay. Because I did not get the stern transom pattern on exactly in the center (as you can see below) the starboard side fifth row will not land in the same place as the port. I am not sure what I will do about that now - perhaps use a slightly wider plank (at least the after half) and use the extra width at the stern to bring the plank to the horizontal/vertical transition like the port side.
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