cdrusn89

I can state now that doing the cannon first made that as easy as it can be. I would go so far as to say adding the eyebolts to the inner bulwarks before they are installed on the hull would have made that job easier (IMHO). I will reserve judgement for now on how easy installing the "inerds" is until I actually do it. I have many of the pieces (capstan, chain pumps, stove, etc.) already assembled and painted so it should not take long to have an answer.

You are a better (and likely more careful and skillful) man than I to attempt to rig the cannon with all the "interference" inside the hull I took the "chicken" way out and am mounting the cannon before I start adding the interior "features".

Port side cannon in place and rigged. (Blue tape is to keep debris out of the lower deck). I used one of the long 6 pounders in the forward most port because i messed up one of the long ago assembled cannon trying to get it adjusted. I will put another long 6 pounder on the starboard side to "match". At one point I thought about not installing the aft two cannon on each side until after the bulkheads were installed. I am glad I didn't decide to wait. There will be precious little run along side the aft cannon with the bulkhead installed. I would not want to try and rig the cannon with just this much space in which to work. I may pay a TBD price when I get to the bulkheads but that is yet to come.

Yes, that is the general idea. I rigged the breech rope to a split ring which I then captured in a home made eyebolt (twisted #28 wire). I need to adjust the length of the breech rope with the cannon as it will be onboard the model. I use the jig to set the distance to the bulwark and the length of the eyebolts (which are way longer than the bulwark is wide. I rig the other tackle and when "tight" stiffen the line with diute PVA. When dry I can (usually) lift the tackle which has hooks on both ends off the eyebolts on the bulwark, pull the breech tackle eyebolts out of the jig and transfer it to the hull. Then reinsert the breech line eyebolts and attach the other tackle to the bulwark eyebolts, square up the carriage and put a drop of medium CA under each rear wheel. When that has set grab the bitter end of the other tackle and glue it to the deck under the bulwark block and add a rope coil. I usually have to adjust the breech rope to get the same length on each side and get the slack down by the rear wheels.

One done, 19 more to go. Although I may wait on the aft four until I have the cabin walls up.

Speaking of cannon. A number of years ago when I was building Confederacy I thought it "wise" to invest in some better cannon than were included in the kit and so I built a number (should have been 26 but...) Syren cannon using the then "standard" brass cannon. I chose the "middle" size of the then Syren cannon sizes and built most of the required number. Imagine my surprise when I got the gun deck completed and the cannon were too tall to fit through the gun ports. So I built more cannon of the correct size and consigned the too tall ones to a storage box. I even had the breech rope rigged complete with eyebolts ready for installation and breech rope length adjustment. I had great fun gluing those little pieces on each wheel - 2 pieces per wheel, four wheels per carriage, twenty guns - you get the idea. I had planned on using the cannon on Wincheslea but they were too small as Winnie is 1/48th scale. So now I have Sphinx and they are going to fit. I built a jig based on Sphinx dimensions so I can fit the cannon and adjust the breech rope and cut the eyebolts so they will seat completely at the bulwark. Here is one cannon in the jig - you can see the white glue on the breech rope connection The clamps are holding the ends of the eyebolts which will be trimmed flush with the outer "wall" of the jig and the excess breech rope cut off. My plan is to do one cannon and then mount it onboard in case the technique needs to be modified. In addition to the Syren canon I also built several more sizes to have something with which to populate the forecastle and quarterdeck since nothing is provided in the kit. I built 6 pounder (long barrel), 6 pounder (short barrel) and 4 pounder cannon all by Vanguard. Here is the long barrel 6 pounder. Interesting is that is cannon comes with a loop for the breech rope to pass through while the two smaller do not. Also the six pounders (both) come with three holes in each side of the carriage while the four pounder only has two. The short barrel six pounder. and the four pounder And to give an idea of the relative size here are all four cannon in one picture. Compared to the nine pounder cannon provided in the kit the six pounder long barrel is a hair longer but not as big around. I may replace the forward most cannon with the long barrel 6s which might have served as bow chasers in the forward most gun ports.

Starboard side hull completed (except for chain plates/deadeyes). Before I do them I want to work on preparation for the gun deck cannon. I think I can get the eyebolts that I need for the guns with the hull on its side in the foam cradle and I do not want to take a chance on the deadeyes/chainplates getting messed up in that arrangement. So now to eyebolt (and there are a few cleats too) installation.

Certainly when a sailing ship is heading dead down wind (by and large I believe was the term) the wind comes from aft to forward. the relative wind onboard being the difference between the actual wind speed and the ship's speed. As the ship moves off that course the apparent wind (what it feels like on the ship) moves forward until with the real wind on the beam, the relative wind is now likely coming from ahead depending on the difference between the true wind speed and the ship's speed. So in many cases the apparent wind onboard would be from ahead of abeam and thus the galley doors would provide some shelter. Plus keep crew members from coming in contact with the hot stove in the event the ship moved unexpectedly while they were in the vicinity. I suspect the doors were necessary (as opposed to a solid wall) because access to the rear of the stove was required for some type of maintenance or cleaning.

When I decided to do the rigging for my guns Chuck did not have the single sheave 2mm blocks available. I think they are almost too small to work with, at least for my hands, so I went with Model Expo 3mm "beautiful blocks". They are "all set" (stropped with standing ends attached and hooks on the ends) ready to rig as soon as I get to the point where mounting the guns makes sense - which I think is not too far in the future. I think I am going to do that before any of the bulkheads and other "stuff" is in the way. I think I would be very likely to damage the items along the centerline if there were there when I added the guns and their rigging.

I assembled and mounted the hull side steps on the port side. The steps are 4mm from top to top as best I can measure from the drawing (Sheet 15). Also the drawings shows eight steps while the picture in the instructions only shows seven. I painted the three on the wales black but will leave the top one natural as I have no faith in my ability to paint it "to match". After some touch-up painting this completes all the hull work on this side - time to "turn it over" and work the starboard side. I considered adding the deadeyes and chain plates now but decided to wait. I ordered some black pins that I want to use instead of the brass ones to keep the touch-up painting to a minimum.

I got the numerals on without (more or less) incidents. Some of them could be a little straighter but they are so small and moving them around is not so easy. I used thick CA but still it sets faster than these old hands can move the numeral around to exactly where it should be - assuming my old eyes would recognize that if they saw it. It turns out the numbers are 5mm from the top of one to the bottom of the next. I started at the stern and fudged things around so that I did not have to try and glue one of the numerals on top of the rudder braces. I think it worked out okay - the XV may be a bit higher than the drawing (Sheet 15) shows but then I may not have the waterline exactly where it shows on the drawing. So with the stern done I measured up from the waterline to where the XV was and put the bow XV the same distance above. Then spaced the remaining numerals 5mm down - top to bottom. I think it looks okay, except the copper color sort of blends into the pear siding but...

I have all the decorations completed on the port side. For those who come after I would suggest that you begin with the PE-2L/R piece as it has "cutouts" for three of the main channel knees and it is important that this piece be fitted from the forward end where the cutouts are. Don't ask me how I know but these pieces are pretty tender and it is possible to get them separated into more pieces than with which you would care to deal. As you can see if lite from above all sorts of errors under the channels become invisible. And there will be gun port doors providing additional "cover" where the decoration pieces meet above the gun ports - at least back aft. I plan on adding the draft numerals before shifting focus to the starboard (aka right) side.

Port side q-gallery decorations completed. Started working on the other decorations on this side. Will probably do the deadeyes as well as long as I am going to keep the hull port side up. I am going to have to find a better camera - IMHO this doesn't look this BAD in real life.

Port side q-gallery trim pieces in place. Had to touch up the paint, both blue and black. Roof panels go on next then the rest of the decorations. On the starboard side I am going to fit the molding before I add the decorations between the windows. Hopefully it will be easier to have them look like they are setting on the molding. I tried on the port side but getting the decorations EXACTLY where they need to be without some kind of reference was a bridge too far (for me).

Tim, Don't think I did not "make a list and check it thrice" before I placed the letter on the hull. May try and reposition the H today. If I mess up the letter in the process I have another set so I am willing to be adventuresome.

The lettering was not obscured so much as to be unreadable and I believe I followed what was there but it seems like there is too much space between the later letters or the first three are too close together. I suppose I could have adopted the RN position of some years previous when they did NOT put the names of the ships on the stern. I am not going to change wjhat is there in any event. Transom decorstions are complete - on to the q-galleries.

Although I departed from the order of steps in the instructions, once I got started on the stern decorations I decided to just go ahead and "finish the job" as a famous statesman once said. I also opted to paint the lower transom to match the wales but have not gotten the seam with the hull done yet. All my really thin brushes are in the "to be cleaned" pile. Now for the "really fun" part - the Sphinx letters - I am going to turn the hull upside down for that job - hopefully the paint has not obscured the letter outlines. Would be really embarrassing to spell it wrong. Like misspelling something in Christmas lights.

Windows are done and yes you can see something through the stern windows. Have to leave a few planks off the q-deck to have and hope of enough light to actually SEE something. Or find a way to rig little LEDs inside the great cabin. I have seen it done at 1/48 scale which actually looked like brass lanterns. Might work at 1/64th, just not on this model or by me.

Stern windows using acetate. Will have to get hull upright to see if the acetate makes a difference but I am committed now. Decided to use nitryl gloves while handling the acetate although I doubt fingerprints would be all that noticeable.

Starboard side q-gallery windows with "window maker" windows in place. I am thinking about doing the stern windows with the acetate since there is something to actually see (or will be someday) in there. Hopefully the decorations and trim pieces will cover some of the surface imperfections which are SOOO obvious in the pictures.

Bow details completed and first round of touch-up paint completed. Now on to the windows in the stern. My usual tactic for the windows is to use one of the "window making" products (the two I have are from Model Masters and Microscale. I have used both and have had reasonable success with them. The result (or at least my results) is NOT a perfect;y c;ear window as you will get with the acetate provided in the kit. For me it comes down to is looking through the window(s) important to your model - as it is for brunnels who has gone to considerable effort to make the interior much better than just the kit provides. Since I have two sets of window frames I am going to try at least the q-gallery windows with the window maker as there is nothing to "see" inside my q-galleries. More later.

Port side bow details completed (at least for now). I took a detour up the instruction manual and got the figurehead out of the fittings box and tried to fit her (pretty obviously a female) on the stem. No luck - I had to widen the slot in the figure (and clean out some mold left-overs) and narrow the stem. Glad I looked now as following the instructions it would have been considerably more difficult to narrow the stem as the figurehead is the last step (masts and rigging excluded) before the stern lanterns. Would have potentially created considerable rework which is "no problem" now.

Thanks Hamilton - steady hands are certainly helpful. At my advanced age it is something to be cherished as it does not last "forever". Yes brunnels I used the Vallejo Liquid gold. The bottle has a ball bearing (for lack of a better description) in it to help mix things up but I had to be careful to dip the brush where the gold was not the carrier as they separate almost immediately. Sometimes I had to go back and hit an area a second time. I did not add any alcohol as was noted in the instructions as I painted the blue first and did not want the gold "flowing" places I did not want it to go. I better go work on the figure head while I am "hot" so to speak.

Thanks guys😀 While messing around with painting all the detail on the head rails, etc. I also manged to get the stern decoration painted. I combined the prototype and brunnels schemes adding the red in the center to the blue and gold of the prototype. There are probably a few areas that need one more round of touch-up but that will have to wait until I am sure the gold is dry and the head details are done.

So once I got to the point above I realized that if I did one set of "trim" in the red/blue motif I had to do the rest as well. So here in dry fit (less one piece I forgot to paint) are the other "trim " pieces for the port side painted in the same fashion. I think painting these is good practice for the molded piece across the stern