cdrusn89
-
Posts
1,638 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by cdrusn89
-
Continuing with the chain plates I tried one with the annealed steel wire (.023" - 24 gauge) and it works. Not enough better for me to redo the 26 I already have done in brass. I also did one in 24 gauge brass wire just to see if it is any different. Not much as far as I can tell. I drilled holes for the mountings (not sure what I will use, probably steel annealed wire) and messed up a couple with the hole far off center so I remade them with the thicker brass wire. Here are the 26 deadeyes and chain plates waiting for the channels to be finished. There are four distinct "flavors" - Fore lower, Fore backstays, Main/Mizzen lower and ,Main/Mizzen backstays.
- 166 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- fannie a gorham
- finished
- (and 1 more)
-
Given my lack of enthusiasm for Britannia metal fitting I decided to make my own chain plates. I looked through my brass "bucket" and found 4 each of 1/64" X 1/16" X 12" brass "bars". That and some 7/32" wooden deadeyes from Model Expo and the brass wire that came with the kit were the starting point. I cut the bar to 45mm lengths (size taken from drawings) and put a 2mm "hook" in one end. I built a jig to hold the deadeye and chain plate in close proximity. Three pins to hold the deadeye and two pieces of basswood to hold the chain plate. I made the pins for the deadeye three different lengths so I could get the deadeye on one pin at a time, twisting the deadeye to get the holes to align with the pins. Start the wire under the hook, wrap it around the deadeye, once, twice ending with two loops around the deadeye. I used a pair of pliers to hold each end and put as much pressure on the wire as I felt safe. I used the nose of one of the pliers to push the "hook" closed. Pull the assembly off the jig, trim the wire and use thick CA to sieze the wire and deadeye with the holes in the correct orientation (single hole down). Making all 20 required took about 20 minutes once I had the jig and process "perfected". Not perfect but serviceable. I will say the Model Expo deadeyes do not have the best hole arrangement. As you can see above the holes are not exactly centered on the wood. But, with the lanyards running across the face it would be hard to notice. I think if I had it to do over again I would use annealed steel wire instead of brass. Not because it is "better" just a different color. I am not sure what I will do about the brass color around the deadeyes (the chain plates will be painted to match the hull). Next step is to get the holes drilled in the chain plates and cut them to the final length.
- 166 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- fannie a gorham
- finished
- (and 1 more)
-
I have gotten to that point in the instructions where is recommends drilling the holes for the masts. I decided not to worry too much about the mast rake. at 1-3 degrees I am not sure i could tell. Hopefully I can adjust the rack with the rigging. I wanted to use a Forester bit to drill through the cherry decking material. I have had regular drill bits tear up planked areas. Since the smallest bit is 1/4" I used that to drill a few test holes in other material and the masts fit with no additional work and minimal "slop". I left the hull in the building jig and used a laser level on the keel to get the hull horizontal and a level across the hull in several places to get it vertical then drilled the holes in the pre-marked positions. I drilled the holes 1" deep and will cut the masts (they are 10" long overall now) to get the correct height above the deck.
- 166 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- fannie a gorham
- finished
- (and 1 more)
-
While the sails are drying I worked on the taffrails and cat heads. I glued the pillars to the top and bottom rails alternating (and paying attention to the pillars which are not symmetric vertically) between rails. Then it is relatively easy to assemble the top and bottom and get the pillars in the right spot. Have to pay particular attention tom getting the pillars glued on perpendicular to the rail. Here is the stbd rail before assembly and the port after priming and sanding. Here are both rails after priming. I kept the top rails long to allow some "slop" where they join the aft rail. I have to aft rail done and pinned it to the stern to get the bottom rails notched to meet the aft but for the top decided to leave that until the aft taffrail is actually glued in place. That would be a bad time to find out I mis-measured. After a couple of tries I got the cat heads in pretty good shape - now for the knees.
- 166 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- fannie a gorham
- finished
- (and 1 more)
-
I took the decision to redo all the sails, with a reduced area and fewer hoops. Here are the three sails after lining for the seams and adding the reinforcing strips on one side.
- 166 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- fannie a gorham
- finished
- (and 1 more)
-
After two false starts on the Bowsprit cap which ended when the material (basswood in one case, yellow cedar in the other) split or otherwise decided not to cooperate in a catastrophic manner I shifted to plywood. In this case I made my own from some 1/32" plywood sheet I had. Three pieces of 1/32 glued together (after I made a rough cut out of the bowsprit opening in each) and then enlarged the opening to fit the end of the bowsprit (octagonal). I then used a series of round files to add the opening at the top for the jib boom. Still needs some final sanding to get it more symmetric but I think this will do. Also needs paint (dark gray in my case as that is the hull color) and the hole for the dolphin striker.
- 166 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- fannie a gorham
- finished
- (and 1 more)
-
Mr. BlueJacket, Thanks for the picture - that really helps. 3/32" basswood (maybe I will use boxwood if I have a piece handy) it is.
-
So here is the fore sail furled and on the fore mast. I used 12 hoops (in spite of the instructions advising to use a smaller number) and now think that was a mistake. I thinned the plastic hoops to 1/32" (3" at scale) so that pile would be more or less three feet tall. I am thinking about redoing the sail (no real hope of reducing the number of hoops without damage to sail) and going with eight or nine hoops. Also need to put the bails on the boom and gaff to keep them in place while attaching them to the sail. They want to wander down the sail - at least they way I was doing it. Should be easier to add the bails without the sails in the way.
- 166 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- fannie a gorham
- finished
- (and 1 more)
-
Mr. BlueJacket - yea I figured that. I do have a question though - I did not find either in the parts list or elsewhere a bowsprit cap. From that I assume I am supposed to make one but since the bowsprit cap is shown only in plan and elevation on sheets 1 and 2 and a little better in sketch 19 what do you suggest it be made of or from? I have brass and Britannia metal strips in a number of widths and thickness and could figure something out but thought I would ask. Same goes for the bowsprit band?
-
Finished scuppers on port side. Somehow I have 18 when the plans only show 15. I guess I managed to squeeze a few extra timberheads in. Guess my spacer was a bit on the small side.
- 166 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- fannie a gorham
- finished
- (and 1 more)
-
Taking a break from sails and masts - got the timberheads installed on the port side so decided to try the scuppers. Obviously the Gorham being a cargo carrier was. nit worried about losing fish through the scuppers - just getting water shipped overboard. These scuppers would be 9" X 18" (more or less). Here is my tool set - 3/64" drill in holder (that also fits my old, slow electric drill) I tried a standard pin vise but it is a bit too long (at least the ones I have are), square file and Xacto knife with #11 blade. The blue tape is to protect the deck from the drill b it holder. Here is one completed and one started from the inside (only 13 more to go on this side). And on the outside.
- 166 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- fannie a gorham
- finished
- (and 1 more)
-
Main sail ready to be laced onto the gaff and boom. Also pictured is the rotatory cutter I borrowed from my girlfriend the quilter. I used it to cut the 3/64s strips of the silk span to use as reinforcing strips. It does not wrinkle the material when cutting the strips like my Xacto knife (even with a new blade) did. This caused a somewhat ragged cut as the material would bunch up and then release as the blade when by. Rotary cutter more or less eliminates this problem (at least for me).
- 166 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- fannie a gorham
- finished
- (and 1 more)
-
I got all three masts shrouds completed and the forestay and jibstay on the fore mast. Here they all are mounted on the mast holder as they will be on the hull. I cut notches into the sides of the board to hold the shrouds where they will be and the fore stay and jib stay are approximately where they should be. Each shroud/stay has a 2 oz fishing sinker attached to the end to provide tension. Working on the back stays and top mast shrouds now. After that it is time to get back to work on the hull.
- 166 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- fannie a gorham
- finished
- (and 1 more)
-
I completed all the serving (I think) for the Fore Mast shrouds and stays - at least the ones that terminate on the lower mast plus the top mast back stay. I briefly considered serving the top part of the top mast shrouds but realized the part to be served was so small as to make it not worth the effort. As far as I can tell ther jury is still out on serving the lower shrouds/stays. If you do not know it is there it certainly is. not obvious. Another lesson for 1/96 scale I guess. Here is the fore mast with the shrouds and stays dry fit and with weights on the ends to simulate tension. One observation is that I may move the eyebolts for the main top mast stay terminus further outboard on the trestle trees. Although where they are now is pretty close to directly below the holes in the mast cap (which is where I assume they would be on the real ship) that area is pretty congested with the other stays and shrouds and adding two more that close to the mast might not be that easy - or look very "ship shape". Here is what the fore mast looks like without the top mast shrouds.
- 166 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- fannie a gorham
- finished
- (and 1 more)
-
Top Mast backstays present a similar "problem" to the "third" shroud. Need to create an "eye" with one leg on each side. and the eye needs to be quite small as it needs only fit over the top of the top mast. I decided that the top mast backstays (and top mast shrouds) would use Syren .018 brown line so they would appear (maybe) to be of different size than the lower shrouds. Since I am new to this scale (1/96) I am wondering if I am making too much of scale differences. I used the same procedure as for the "third" shrouds - it is just a bit more challenging since the line and opening are smaller. Here is the first one before serving the junction. And here after the junctions were served (but not yet trimmed). Here are the remaining six loop shrouds (four for the fore mast and two for the main mast) plus the three Top Mast backstays hanging up to remove any "kinks" introduced by serving process. I am still working the final "third" lower shroud and the top mast shrouds - all are loops - no more "thirds".
- 166 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- fannie a gorham
- finished
- (and 1 more)
-
While working sails (slowly) I decided to proceed with getting the lower shrouds ready as I intend to have the masts as completely outfitted as possible before installing them on the hull. I took some measurements and decided on 40mm as the portion of the loop shrouds that should be served to place the seized junction as shown in the shroud detail on sheet 2. That proved to be fairly easy (especially compared to the serving I did on Niagara). The third shroud for the main and mizzen took a bit more effort. After some experimentation I figured out that to make the two "splices" to add the center "loop" was easier accomplished by using thick CA to glue the loop to the shroud first (after stiffening the ends of the shroud lines with thin CA). I am using Syren .025 Brown rigging line for the lower shrouds so here is the beginning of the "third" shroud. I determined that there should be 25mm of space to fit over the mast and have the two junctions at about the same point as the loop seizing. When the thick CA is dry I used a new, straight Xacto blade to carefully cut the angles on the short piece. My previous attempts to cut the angle and then join the pieces drove me to try this approach which worked much better, at least for me. I then mounted the "third" shroud in my Syren serving machine and served over the joint starting about 3-4mm prior to the beginning of the joint. I used 50/50 white glue and water on the serving and a very small dab of thick CA on the ends at the start and end of the serving. After the serving was dry I checked to make sure I got the desired 25mm opening. So here is what the lower shrouds look like it a test fit on the mizzen mast.
- 166 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- fannie a gorham
- finished
- (and 1 more)
-
Tom, After several attempts at the foot-rope stirrups using Syren line I finally switched to black wire (24 gauge if I remember or maybe one size smaller). That made keeping them straight and tensioning the foot-rope a bit easier. I considered changing to wire (28 gauge I think) for the foot-ropes too but in the end decided against it because of issuing attaching them to the yards. Nothing insurmountable just an issue I chose not to deal with at the time. If (or maybe when) I build another square rigger I will probably go with wire for both foot-rope and stirrups.
-
While waiting for the top mast hoops to dry I started on the main sail. I already had a piece of silk span painted with the acrylic Unbleached Titanium White similar to what I used for the mizzen sail (which I am considering doing over - more on that subject later). Based on experience with the mizzen, which was cut down from the sail plan dimensions, I made similar changes to the main sail plan. I went a step further and cut the pattern with the top and bottom parallel to each other making sure the top would still fit the main gaff. You can see the comparison between the sail plan an my pattern in the first photo - the sail pattern is outlined in red. This was different from what I did on the mizzen where the top retained the "extra" fabric above a line parallel to the bottom although the overall height was reduced to about 2/3 of full size. With the sail plan I cut some thin (I aimed for 3/64" but they are probably closer to 1/8") for the reinforcing pieces and outlined the sail plan on the fabric. I added the reinforcing strips on both sides of the material and drew the panel seams with a 2H pencil on both sides as well. I marked the locations for the mast hoops and used a 50/50 white glue water mix to glue pieces of very thin light brown thread to each of the hoop locations. These will be used to attach the hoops to the sail using the built in attachment point on the plastic mast hoops. These have been sanded to reduce them to 1/32" thickness and painted flat buff. The bolt rope is attached using the same 50/50 mixture. Once the bolt rope is attached and dry on all three sides the mast hoops are attached.
- 166 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- fannie a gorham
- finished
- (and 1 more)
-
Having rebuilt the fore top mast after forgetting to put the mast cap on before mounting the blocks and recognizing that (according to Picture 9 in the instructions) there are no hoops on the fore top mast I thought I better figure out what to do about the hoops on the main and mizzen top masts. I had previously bought 5/32 X 1/32 hoops from BlueJackets. As I might have mentioned previously I had the devil of a time getting the hoops off the carrier. The picture below shows about an average take from a sheet of 12 hoops - 8 available and 4 are scrap. The plan is to CAREFULLY paint them a flat buff color (same as I did the plastic hoops on the lower mizzen mast (so far)). This is a two step process, grabbing the hoop in a clamp just below half width and painting the top part, then when dry reversing and painting the other half. I had to make absolutely the paint was dry, otherwise the painted part will stick to the clamp and come apart. The second picture was the "take" from the first sheet of hoops. Four out of 12. Luckily I ordered three sheets of twelve and need a total of 20 hoops out of the 36 I have. Need to increase the "yield" or I will be ordering more. FYI - do not even think about trying to sand off the "flash" from the carrier. I lost two of my first set of 12 trying that. Way too fragile for a sanding stick (even 400 grit).
- 166 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- fannie a gorham
- finished
- (and 1 more)
-
Included in the "messing around" has been the first attempt at a sail. In this case the Mizzen sail (the largest so if I can get this I think the others (main and fore) will be easier). I used the technique shown on U-Tube (Making Sails for Ship Models from Silkspan, Parts 1 & 2) which is considerably faster than my previous method which was from an Admiralty Models course in 2014). I did not take pictures of the intermediate steps but here is what it looks like at this point. I still have to add the parrels on both the gaff and boom as well as figure out how to terminate the line securing the sail to the gaff/boom. I am going to "mess around" with this some more to get a bit more "ship shape" then think about starts on the main and fore sails. I am got going to model the top sails but probably will include the top sail halyards although getting access to belaying pins in the boom jaws looks like it would be a challenge.
- 166 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- fannie a gorham
- finished
- (and 1 more)
-
Thanks John. Mr. BlueJacket - I just finished fabing a new fore top mast so I appreciate the suggestion but I have already drilled the holes for the main topmast stays and the bail in the mast cap and am concerned about its ability to support additional "manipulation".
-
Spent the morning putting the blocks on the fore Topmast. Since the Flying Jib and Jib Topsail halyard blocks are on pendants I decided to use the 28 guage black wire to strop them instead of the .012 brown Syren line I used on the other blocks. This way the wire will help support the halyard, downhaul and sheet lines which will all be hooked together a few inches above the deck. I got everything together, including the extra block aft at the jib topsail level for the fore topsail, which according to Photo 9 is set flying, with no hoops, above the jib topsail stay, rather than above the flying jib stay. That was fine, as far as it went. Then I realized that I should have put the mast cap on the top mast before adding all the blocks. As it stands now there is no (easy) way to get the mast cap installed. Lesson learned for the other two top masts while I decide how to deal with the fore top mast.
- 166 replies
-
- 6
-
-
- fannie a gorham
- finished
- (and 1 more)
-
Continued to add blocks to the lower masts. I have all the common blocks (throat and peak halyards, topping lifts) completed - now to get the unique ones on each lower mast. Drawing is not all that helpful - shows some "extra" blocks but without clearly identifying what they are for. Need to carefully look at the sail plan as there are at least two head sails that terminate at the top of the lower foremast Here are the lower mast tops with the common blocks installed.
- 166 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- fannie a gorham
- finished
- (and 1 more)
-
Continuing to "fiddle around" I completed the lower Mizzen mast adding the tape (aka metal bands - and added a backing plate for the throat halyard triple block) and the peak halyard and topping lift blocks. Fore and Main masts are next. Thinking about adding serving to the center parts (to just below the bolster) for the lower shrouds. I used the Syren Serving machine for the much more extensive serving on the Niagara so I know what is required. Just wonder if that is "going overboard" at 1/96 scale. The instructions (page 13 - sketch 17) appear to show serving on the lower shrouds and forestay. Something to think about.
- 166 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- fannie a gorham
- finished
- (and 1 more)
-
Worked on the stern taffrail to see how the wooden pillars would look. I fabed the top (1/16" thick) and the bottom (3/32" thick) and then marked where the pillars should go (3/16" spacing as best I can tell from the drawing) on each piece. To make sure I have the locations in the same place top and bottom I used a drill press to drill a small (#70) hole through both pieces while keeping them clamped together. I glued every other pillar to the bottom rail and then the intervening ones to the top rail remembering that the pillars have a top (not symmetric). When that dried I joined the two pieces together using some machinists squares to provide some weight and (hopefully) everything would line up. In the end I had to move one pillar to get the spacing closer to the desired state but overall it looks okay. Here ius how it looks now after a coat of primer (which is almost white).
- 166 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- fannie a gorham
- finished
- (and 1 more)
Our Emblem ®
