cdrusn89
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Everything posted by cdrusn89
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Thanks Ronald - that was my choice as well. I seem to remember painting the joint between the inner and out planking with dilute PVA and getting the existing part off without doing more harm seems unlikely. Still working the q-deck planking. Here i have the all the edges completed and the "king plank" (actually two planks) down the centerline. is poised awaiting some detailed measurement to ensure it is actually on the centerline.
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I have known this day was coming but it did not make any sense (to me) to address it before now. I got the outer "skin" (the .08mm thick, engraved pear) on the starboard side a little too low, especially near the back of the forecastle. It is pretty obvious as you can see below. Port side: Starboard side: I wondered if it was just the outer skin or was there some underlying problem. So I set out to measure the bulwark height at the bow. I put the hull in the cradle and used my handy-dandy electronic level to at least attempt to get the hull level. I put the level as close to the center of the front of the q-deck and low and behold it came up level without me having to touch anything. So far so good. Then I took the height measuring "device" and zeroed it resting on the aft end of the starboard bulwark just forward of the little "ear" that sticks up. Then I moved it to the port side and found that at the aft end the port side is .073mm lower than the starboard. Then I checked the bow Port side is .1mm higher. From this I conclude that there is no "underlying" problem, I just got the starboard side "skin" on too low. somehow (most likely inadequate attention to detail) Now what to do about it? I think I have four options: 1. Ignore it, no one will notice, especially with the cap rail and blizzard of rigging above and shrouds/ratlines in front (mostly). 2. Just paint the part of the inner bulwark that shows red. 3. Remove the entire part of the skin currently showing and replace it with a new .8mm thick section that matches the height of the inner bulwark and paint red. 4. Add a piece of .8mm pear above the existing to the height of the inner bulwark and paint red. Anyone see another path? I am going to plank the q-deck while I consider these options and any others that are provided.
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My boxwood shipment arrived and a quick check of the dimensions look good 3/64 X 1/8" X 15". Having learned my lesson on the forecastle I took the outboard planks which I had copied from the equivalent plank on the maple deck and modified them so that a 1/8" wide plank will fit. The top plank is what I copied from the maple deck. Below is the modified plank that a 1/8" wide plank will "fit" in the open "slot". Have to modify the other outboard plank, pick some matching boxwood strips and get on with planking the q-deck.
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That would certainly make these easier for the Captain. Did a 6th rate have three LTs or just two? Three could probably share the port side cabin since one is presumably always on watch or on deck.
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Yes, it looks great. Where is the captain's hammock going to go? Looks like the cabin would have to be rearranged for sleeping or the hammock will block the entrance to one of the q-galleries. Maybe they hung the hammock athwartships above the locker (or whatever its is called) at the transom - not the current custom in the USN (almost all bunks run fore/aft).
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Ronald - I also noted the varying dimensions on the hull planking. Next time (Indy) I am going to find the thinnest plank and use the thickness sander to get them all as close to that thickness as I can. Different widths are easier to deal with and many of the planks are not a constant width anyway. Thickness differences can really complicate trying to sand the hull smooth. Although by the appearance of your hull you overcame (and then some) whatever eccentricities the hull planking threw at you. At least there is a "deck planking plan" on the maple decking although I think it used 3.5mm planks - at least on the forecastle. brunnels - this is not my "first rodeo" planking decks. In fact this is the first time I had a "pre-planked" deck to use which I did on the gun deck - too many openings for my taste but the q-deck and forecastle are more my speed.
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Thanks Ronald 😀 I would not recommend the approach I took unless you have the ability to generate planks of essentially any width. I started planking from the bitt posts out to the edges where I had the "pre-cut" nibbling strake. That went okay until I got close to the edge where I needed to create planks with widths that would allow them to fit within what had become "per-determined" (by the planks already in place) dimensions. Without a miniature (4") table saw that would have meant a good deal of sanding and shaping. Plus I have to create some planks wider than what was my standard here (1/8"). Between the bitt posts was even more challenging because of having to plank around the stove flue opening and the bitt posts. Again wider than "standard" planks were necessary. I have more boxwood coming tomorrow for the quarterdeck. Hopefully I can get a more consistent color match there. I did notice that on the maple deck there is at least one plank (third one in on starboard side) that runs all the way from one end to the other without a joint. That would be a really long plank (approx 50')
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A big jigsaw puzzle indeed. The forecastle planked over in box wood. Not the greatest job of color matching (although there is still a bit of clean-up water on the wood in places) but I find it difficult to discern the various shades of boxwood unless it is obvious to the casual observer. I did not bother to plank around the hatches as they just sat on the maple deck - with the stove flue as I guide I can get the hatches located without the deck marking. There are a single piece after all. A few coats of WOP and I can add the furniture, what there is of it. I also need to figure out what to do about the very front - I apparently did not get the various parts together per the instructions. need a "filler" piece of some kind.
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Ronald - what are you using for adhesive on the decking? I am about to start the forecastle decking and am torn between carpenter and PVA. I might have been tempted to plank over hatches rather than plank around them (carefully marking where thew go of course). You won't really be able to tell, especially if you paint the planks black under the hatch grating.
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Having considered the "problem" again I changed tactics (slightly). Instead of cutting pieces that would cover the entire area between the "tabs" I cut a narrow piece to fit across the very aft edge of the deck. And then cut pieces to cover the area between the tabs so that the seam between each set of pieces would mark the center of the "tab" and thus where the railing/belfry supports should land give or take a small bit - since the railing sections are already made up with fixed distances between the posts I can't be too picky about where all three posts fall as long as it "looks good". Here is the deck with the penultimate pieces glued in place. I am waiting until they are fixed in place before cutting the final piece. Trust me trying to keep more than 3 or 4 of those small pieces in place while you measure for the next one can be a challenge. From here I am considering running pieces along the outside of the posts (after adding the other two) and then working towards the bulwark. Planking the inner section may require planks of varying width so as not to complicate things with "notched planks". I also need to keep track of where the markings for eyebolts are located.
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Ronald - I am pretty much committed to this approach, at least for now. I will look at the BE Sphinx build as I am not familiar with what he did but may use it on my Indy build coming "soon" after i finish Sphinx. I will have to "pay attention" to joints at the front of each plank where they meet the waterway or whatever the outboard plank is called in this case. With the planking scheme established at the bulwarks it is time to figure out what to do at the back (stern end). This is here I think the extra deck thickness is going to be an issue. If you just use the maple deck then the belfry and railing sit flush with the top of that deck (assuming you get the tabs on the supports into the slots in the deck. My first thought was to cut a series of small pieces of boxwood to fit in between the areas where the railing/belfry will go. However doing that would put them about 1mm lower than would be the case with just the maple deck unless I fill in the holes in the ply deck first. Given that the railing is a belaying point I do not want to do anything to reduce the clearance between the deck and the railing as it will be hard enough to belay a line to the railing with the "standard" spacing. So I cut a piece of boxwood as wide as the two sets of slots. My first thought was to cut and fit this between the two waterways, mark where the railing/belfry go and "move on". I would have to file the tabs off the supports and probably pin the railing legs to the deck as I have little faith in just a glue joint for items under rigging tension. Then I thought maybe I could cut pieces of the plank so the joint falls in the middle of each set of slots. That way no marking is required and it should be easier to locate the belfry/railing when the time comes. That is how I think (subject to unforeseen "difficulties") I am going to proceed.
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How to approach planking the forecastle?? My experience with deck planking usually starts at the center with the "king" plank(s) and using constant width planks move outward until you hit the bulwark and then nibble the ends of the planks until you have filled all the area. Looking at the maple deck and its planking scheme it appears that many of the planks were tapered as they neared the bow and ended at a wider, continuous "nibbing" plank at the bulwark. I decided to try and replicate the maple planking scheme (less the trenails). To affect this I carefully cut the nibbing strake from the maple deck - It was pretty easy to follow the engraved line, but not that easy since I had to do it twice to get an acceptable "sample". That piece is also quite fragile so I decided to split it into two parts with my approximation of a scarf joint. These are the starboard side pieces now in boxwood. I had trimmed the plywood deck to fit but thought I should glue the nibbing starkes to the deck and then the deck to the hull (after installing the fore jeer bitts - I almost forgot). Here is the ply deck with the port side nibbing strake glued and clamped. Starboard side next then the deck goes on the hull. The one nagging worry is that now I will have a deck twice (maybe a bit more than twice) as thick as if I had just put the maple deck down. We are only talking about 1mm or so but....
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Thanks Brunnels - it will go slower now as i have decided to try and plank the forecastle and q-deck in boxwood. Forecastle and q-deck beams and carlings in place. I have decided to completely plank the forecastle and q-deck - no "inspection ports". I intend to full rig the model which will make seeing much through the openings very hard so I will (sadly) cover up all the details inside the cabin areas except what can be seen through the gun ports or stern windows. With the three ship's boats in the waist and the blizzard of rigging above there will be poor visibility of what is on the gun deck so I am not sure why I spent all that time rigging the cannon. Oh well, it is a "hobby" after all. Anyway I am waiting for some boxwood strips and planks I ordered to plank the "upper" decks which will be much more visible than the gun deck. In the meantime I am trying to replicate the waterway on the forecastle using some boxwood planks I have "on hand".
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Q-deck beams in place. I painted the sides and bottom of the beams forward of the enclosed spaces red to match the bulwarks - not that it is all that obvious in the picture or that they are likely to be visible but... Carlings are next.
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Upon returning to the instructions i found I had neglected to add the stanchions and "railings" around the two gun deck ladders. not being a big fan of the PE supplied stanchions I rooted around in the "parts drawer" and found some round, brass stanchions fitted for two rows of "rails". I had to enlarge the holes to get them mounted , blackened them with ATK Burnishing liquid and used some .005" natural line to form the railings. I only had 10 of these stanchions so I better order another 10 (they come in packages of 10) so I can use them on the quarter deck too. NOW on to the q-deck beams.
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Based on the shape of the "swooping" part I would think that was additional protection from errant anchor flukes while the anchor is being recovered. The billboard portion I think is to prevent the anchor from getting fouled in the forward most chain plates. It also provides some additional protection from waves boarding through the gun port just aft of it without obstructing (much) the ability to shoot out of the port. I find it interesting that these small (relatively speaking) ships did not have gun port doors on every gun port. I guess it was not a "real" problem or the RN would have "fixed" it. Would seem the gun deck would be pretty wet in most any degree of bad weather.
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I have reached another milestone - the gun deck is more or less completed and it is time to start adding the quarterdeck beams. I decided not to use the kit provided "handles for the chain pumps - something about square section material in place of round. So I fabbed new handles from .032 phosphor-bronze wire then painted it black. Since the plan is to have the two sets of handles on opposite sides (i.e the handle on one side up the other side down) it is harder to tell that they are not exactly alike After taking these pictures I noticed that one of the boarding steps is missing (wonder where that went?), the decoration on the stem is missing on one side and the chess tree is missing on one side too. I have been careful not to throw anything away that was not obviously debris so I need to sort through my "extras" bin and hope I find the errant pieces. I think I just forgot the stem decoration as I am pretty sure there are still some pieces left on that PE sheet. So here is what she looking at the moment. Q-Deck beams here we come!
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I followed a similar procedure with the forward stanchions and Topsail Bitts. hopefully this all pays off in a few more pages when we get to the pump handles. Speaking of pump handles - I did not glue in the Hand pumps but just stuck them in their holes with the pump handles inboard. they are too delicate and likely "in the way" of something (like a hand or elbow) in the future. I will probably have to install them before the rigging but I will deal with that then. For now they are pretty much out of "harms way". I also left the hatch grating just "sitting there" for now - no sense in precluding having to get "below decks" if it is not absolutely required while still keeping any errant debris out of the lower decks.. I also installed the eyebolts around the main mast and the ring bolts in the deck behind the cannon. Next up is the stove, which is already for installation.
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Thanks Ronald - It is certainly "taking shape". Have added the coaming and ladders to the gun deck. I assembled and added the chain pumps and the aft pump rod supports. Knowing that there will be hardware connecting the chain pumps and after support stanchions I thought it wise to check that the necessary parts were more or less aligned. Better make "allowances" now instead of trying to move things around later. So I cut a short piece of piano wire and used it to align the aft stanchion, Main Jeer Bitts and the aft side of the chain pumps. I had to move the aft support stanchion up a small bit and the chain pump down a hair to get the wire to look level. Similarly on the other side. Everything is firmly in place now so on to the eyebolts and such before I moving on to the top sail bitts. FYI - the holes in the gun deck (at least mine) need to be "finessed" a bit with a small file as even the least bit of misalignment between the ply deck and the maple deck will make getting the various pieces through "difficult".
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A milestone (of sorts). All the deadeyes and chain plates are rigged and touched-up, interior bulkheads outfitted and installed. Here is my version of step 349, except I have all the cannons installed and rigged. Now on to the "inerds" in earnest.
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Thanks Brunnels - I thought of one m ore reason why doing the cannon now helps out - no worry about getting a chain plate in front of a cannon. Probably should not be a problem in any event but... Here are the bulkheads ready for the windows. I used the kit provided door "knobs" but used the Syren 3/16" small door hinges instead. I used the "window maker" in the window frames and will mount the windows when that is dry.
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This is as far as i can go until I get the bulkheads "outfitted". I have the hinges and door knobs on and has a coat of polycrylic flat applied. Now it is time for the windows and window frames. I may try the "window maker" again since you would have to be pretty spry to actually be able to look through them.
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The cannon install saga continued. I started on the port side working forward to aft. After i got the first five installed I started to wondered about how to handle the last five and having enough room to get the bulkheads fitted and installed. So I glued the two bulkhead together and started fitting them (they were too wide by a mm or two) and it was quickly obvious that the 8th and 9th cannon would have made getting the bulkheads in place impossible. So I will add cannon number 6, 7 and 10 and then install the bulkheads (suitably outfitted and varnished) before putted the last two cannon in. There appears to be sufficient room to work but you never know until you try. Bottom line - yes installing the cannon before the centerline "stuff" works great BUT you have to have the bulkheads ready for installation and fitted (not necessarily glued in place) before installing the the last three cannon on one side.
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I remember someone asking where to get more pins. I got these from Historic Ships and they are 7.5mm long (a bit shorter than the ones that came in the kit) and are black and magnetic so they are not "colored" brass but of some magnetic material (iron/steel most likely). I plan on using them on the chainplates so I don't have to paint the heads of the brass ones plus they may not need to be cut off like the ones included in the kit.
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The Syren kits come in both 1/48 and 1/64 scale so the 1/64th should be the same size (more or less) as these. I did notice that there appears to be a PE version of the stern lantern on the PE sheet (PE-30). If you are familiar with bending PE into shape this might be a faster solution. I have built the 1/48th Syren stern lantern (for Wincheslea) and it takes a steady hand - you have to glue each side of the lantern to the base keeping the sides just in contact. I think it took me three tries to get one acceptable lantern. You can see the final one in these photos.
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