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Everything posted by cdrusn89
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After cutting out the profile it appears that the first order of business on the hull is to get the stern closer to what is required in order to get the template to at least approximate what the stern area should look like. I think this might be easier done before I mount the hull in a vise. So that is what I am going to do now. Take my Dremel drum sander to the stern area to remove what looks like where the hull blank as attached to whatever was used to carve the basic shape.
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Yikes, is a Wyoming kit in the works? I would have a hard time NOT buying that one, especially since I was at the Maine Maritime Museum and saw their Wyoming display this past summer. At 1/8" scale that would be longer than the 1/35 Endeavour that I just finished (though no where near as tall - the Endeavour is over five feet from cradle base to top of mast).
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I used the "Stitch" feature of the scanner SW (Canon Image Garden) to combine the two haves of the hull profile into a single image. The SW has no "smarts" (i.e. look for horizontal lines on both halves and align them) so I had to adjust the second image (by moving the paper on the scanner) what seemed like a hundred times (probably more like 15) to get the two haves lined up. The SW saves this as a .pdf file which I will print out (and compare to the original) when I find where I have stored the 11 X 17 paper Fannie Hull Profile 1.0.pdf
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Welcome aboard Mark. I built Smuggler in 2010 (my first "real" ship model) and used a Dremel sanding drum to get the bulk of the material off the bulwarks. The issue is where the bulwark and deck join. The sanding drum does not reach that very well unless you keep the sanding drum just off the end of the supporting drum and that ruins sanding drums really fast and does not do a very good job. I finally resorted to Xacto knives of various configurations and folded sand paper. It came out okay in the end although I did sand thru at a couple of points near the bulwark/deck join. That was before I started taking pictures during construction (and before I was aware of MSW).
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I have ordered some 1/16 birch plywood from Northeast Scale Lumber as preparation for Plan B should that be necessary. In the mean time I scanned in the hull profile drawing as a picture, cropped to just one half of the Hull Sections, imported two copies into PowerPoint (I have my 100K slides badge for PowerPoint and have not yet mastered Photoshop or TurboCAD) and flipped one copy horizontally and married the two to get an image with the forward sections on both sides. Then I printed it and compared the dimensions with the original. It took half a dozen iterations but I finally got both the copy and original the same size on paper (remember to turn off the "scale to fit" which at least on my printer/PP is on be default) both vertically and horizontally. Then I repeated for the aft sections. Now my plan is to print half a dozen copies of each, rubber cement them to pieces of file folder, cut out (and label) each section and use them as templates as I work the hull to the correct dimensions (at least in theory). I have to do something similar to get a copy of the hull profile but since that drawing is bigger than my scanner bed I probably will have to use something besides PowerPoint. Luckily my prin ter will handle 11 X 17 paper so printing the hull profile will not require taping pages together.
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Nic, Thanks. I also thought about taking the whole hull down an extra 1/32" and planking it to get the plank lines in the paint. I saw someone do that with the Smuggler in Model Ship World a few years back.
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Upon opening the box I found (somewhat to my initial surprise) that this kit includes a pre-carved hull. I then remembered seeing that referred to somewhere in the BlueJacket's documentation. So here are the kit contents which include a significant number of Britannia metal parts including the yawl boat. It is my intention to replace the metal blocks with Syren wooden ones and the metal yawl with a wooden one though at the moment I am not sure exactly how. Having looked at the pre-carved hull and instructions for a minute I also though about cutting the bulwarks off on the main deck, adding the timberheads and bulwark sheathing as separate items. I guess I could try to thin down the provided bulwarks and if that proves unsightly (or I get carried away and make them too think somewhere) I could use this as my "Plan B".
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To the best of my knowledge this is the first build log on MSW for this kit. Here is the apparently obligatory first picture of the kit box on the work bench. Given the season I will probably not get to much done in the near future 🎅
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I have decided to try a solid hull model at about a third (1/96) the scale of the Endeavour - BlueJacket's Fannie A. Gorham, a three masted coastal schooner from the late 1800's. See you on the Fabnnie A. Build Log
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Thanks all - as for the stand, I am thinking about taking a page from Keith Aug's stand and replacing the end pieces with thick (1/4" or maybe thicker) plexiglass. But that will have to wait until I get a case built which will require additional shop machines (like a full size table saw) for which I need approval from HQ. Maybe for Christmas.
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Thanks Keith😀 Here she is at home in the front hall. People entering will have a hard time not seeing her. Case is under consideration but the panels will have to be plexiglass/Lexan/etc. as glass this size would be way to heavy to ever move.
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Keith - I had enough trouble getting the two and half turns around the winches that I managed. The line kept working its way off. I finally used tweezers to move the line down the winch drum and hold it between turns. I too have had a line "get away from me" while on a winch - no fun indeed. Port side is complete now. Am working on the final cradle (not nearly as nice or inventive as Keith's) varnish now so it will be another day before she m akes it in to the house. More pictures then
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A full shot of the starboard side in the kit supplied stand. I have to clean up the one used in construction to use as this one is too unstable to use for the long term. I am trying to figure out if I can get/make a case for it that will not cost an arm and a leg and be so heavy it will need a "ten man working party" (old USN term) to move it. This is the side that will "show" where she will be displayed.
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Starboard side deck is complete😀 Now to fix the port side winches☹️ Here are some closeups of the starboard side.
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Windward side jib sheet and upper flying jib sheet lines in place around winches, belayed to cleats with rope coils.
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Windward side lower flying jib sheet (forward most of the sheet lines) going around the winch clockwise. Line is not tight as this side sheets lines and not holding the sail. I used a smaller coil of line since some of the line is used to carry the sheet around the jib stay for the flying jib or mast for jib.
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Working to "undo" the my mistake on the winches I wanted to get a picture of the windward sheet lines (which I have decided to also rig around the winches (in a clockwise manner of course) - thanks again Keith) as they are seen from the windward side. So here it is! Admittedly it is a little hard to find the jib sheet as it goes pretty close to the deck but I think I got the arrow pointed in the correct spot.
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Yes Keith thanks - I caught your note just before I did two out of three incorrectly on the windward side.
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Here is the first leeward sheet line, the jib sheet around winch and terminated at cleat with rope coil.
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Working to rig the sheet lines for the jib and flying jib. The instructions show the sheet lines on one side (presumably the leeward side) but there are sheet lines that run to both sides of the ship. On the leeward side the sheet lines run through blocks at the deck edge and around the indicated winches and terminate at the indicated cleats. On the windward side the sheet lines run through the corresponding deck edge blocks and I think they would go directly to the indicated cleats rather than around the winches. Here is the Flying Jib tack going around the forward winch (and feeding from the top not the bottom as shown in the instructions) and termionating at the forwardmost cleat.
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Hey all you sailors out there here is a question. The Amati instructions for the Endeavour kit show (see photo below) pretty clearly that the line goes around the winch starting at the top in a clockwise direction. Thus the line feeds off the winch at the bottom as the winch turns clockwise. That is contrary to the limited experience that I have had and the You-Tube videos on sheet winches all show the line feeding off the top of the winch not the bottom. I am getting ready to rig the jib and flying jib sheets on my Endeavour and would like to do it correctly (in spite of the instructions). Anyone see things differently or is this the British way of rigging winches?
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Keith - I have been thinking about the next build for some time. I would like to do the Charles P. Notman (4 masted schooner from early 1800's) kit by BlueJackets. I have not seen it done before on MSW so no "cheating" by looking at previous build logs. My only reservation is that it is 1/96 scale which is smaller than I have done before (with the exception of Endeavour all the kits I have built were 1/48 or 1/64) and I kind of like the larger scales which allow more detailing. I thought about just buying the plans and trying to sort of scratch build by replicating the center keel/bulkheads at 1/64th but the 1/96th kit is 41" overall so a 50% scale up would make the model almost 5' long (bigger than Endeavour!) which would be a problem to find a place to display. I have the brig Syren (Model Expo) on hand but do not want to do another square rigger this soon after doing Niagara. As much as I like rigging it seemed to never end on the Niagara and I am sure the Syren would be the same. So I will just have to press on with Endeavour and then tend to the Christmas decorations and think some more.
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Although not without drama (a block came apart on the tack) the Fly Jib is flying. I am going to quit while I am ahead tonight and rig the sheet lines tomorrow along (hopefully) with getting the back stay retensioned. Then it is adding the remaining rope coils and cleaning up a few odds and ends. Completion is in sight😊
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