cdrusn89
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Everything posted by cdrusn89
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Well, my first mask and spray job didn't turn out as well as I had hoped, but not too bad overall. For whatever reason I had more trouble with paint runs and such on the bulwark (yellow) side than on the ceiling side. Clearly some touch-up required on one side or the other on every module. Some of the runs and missed areas are clearly the application of the masking. Others are probably due to imperfections in the surface that the masking could not overcome. Others probably are just bad luck and inexperience although I am not sure what I would do differently other than play closer attention to where the masking goes, especially the second, third etc. pieces. It took six pieces on each side and there were several cases where an initial section that was supposed to get paint did not because it was covered up by a subsequent piece of masking. Next step is to"fix" the issues with the paint and install the gun eye-bolts/rings and the cleats and chocks of the interior sections and then rip out the offending sections and replace them with these.
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After what seemed like days (was really only hours) I got all eight modules masked so that I can spray the red trim on the inside and outside. It probably would have been faster if I did it by hand but I have this big investment in an airbrush and HAVE to use it now to justify the cost to HQ. So here are the eight pieces in the paint booth. I put a #4 X 3/4" wood screw in the bottom of each modules so I would have a way to hold it while I painted. I am expecting it will take several coats to cover the dark green. I am now thinking I should have done the painting in the order of the colors, i.e. first the yellow, then the red and the green last. Oh well, live and learn - hopefully.
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So I have completed the eight new sections of bulwark/ceiling and got them painted and am ready to work the pre-outfitting on the inside. While waiting for the paint to dry I created the mooring chocks that fit in the bottom of the stern gun ports and gave them a coat of clear flat.
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So here are the eight new sections, after sanding with 400# waiting for paint and other outfitting items (cleats, eyebolts, etc.). I am struggling with how to paint these since there are now several colors on each side of each module (red and yellow on bulwark side and red and dark green on the ceiling side). I had used my new airbrush to paint the red and yellow seen in previous pictures but they were done separately with only minimal masking. Trying to paint the red and either other color may be beyond my airbrush/masking skill level.
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The ceiling planking is added in a similar manner using 3/64 thick planks and adding the sweep trim pieces as on the bulwark side.
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With the sweep port trimmed up I added the 1/32 planking using a 1/8 wide piece at the bottom and 3/32 on the sides of the sweep port and at least the first row above. I used a combination of 1/8 and 3/32 pieces to match the height of the internal structure (which hopefully matches the height at the location in question. Here is a module with the bulwark planking completed. I cut all the planking long and then used a disc sander to trim back to the measured length. This is the one that convinced me to use thicker material for the sweep port trim pieces.
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After tapering the supports I added the trim pieces around the sweep port. I started with 1/16 x 1/32 but shifted to 3/32 x 1/32 to make sure I had "extra" material to sand down at the edges of the sweep ports. I found it easier to add a longer piece and then trim when the glue dried. Maneuvering small pieces with tweezers is not as easy at it once was. The key I found was only getting the glue where you want the wood to stick - Dah.
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On the bulwark side I added four 1/32 X 1/16 strips butted on the bottom strip. These strips were tapered to "zero" at the top to provide a smooth transition from the 1/8 thickness at the bottom (thickness less the planking) to the 3/32 at the top.
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So the eight new bulwark/ceiling modules are complete. I decided that the bulwark side would taper and the ceiling side would be straight. I used 1/8 X 1/8 stripes at the bottom and 3/32 X 3/32 for the remainder of the internal structure. I used 5 pieces of the 3/32 x 3/32 and then sometimes added a 1/32 or 1/16 piece on top depending on the actual height at the location being replaced. Here is what a "starting point" looked like.
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Darrell - thanks, and I did briefly consider leaving them "as is" but then I have no idea what the impact might be when fixing them (without essentially "starting over" is no longer an option. Plus, it would not ever look right, at least to me and after all I am the Captain (at least for this small part of the world) so it better look right "or else"!
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Here is what the model looks like with one "new" sweep port section and one of the incorrect ones removed. I have not tried painting yet (obviously) as I want to get all the new sections completed before I tackle that. Also a picture of the completed section before being fitted onto model for dry fit test. The red in the picture is from the Bondo filler I had to use to fill in the gaps inside the sweep port. Perhaps I will figure out a way to reduce or eliminate the gaps as I proceed.
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I sometimes get the feeling that everything is going along too well. Such a feeling came over me yesterday and now I know why. I discovered while trying to figure out what cleats and eye-bolts I could pre-outfit on the ceiling planking before installation that I had somehow mis-measured and eight of the eighteen sweep ports are not where they should be - see picture below. I am going to try my hand at building the entire section between gun ports (for the affected sweep ports) as a single unit. This will make painting somewhat more complicated but will (hopefully) validate that I should have done all the rectangular gun port sections this way. I had hoped to try this on a subsequent build but need to fix this error and it looks like a good place to start.
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The port side came out better than the stbd - no glaring mis-measurements and only minor "adjustments" were required to get the bulwark planking sections to fit. On to redoing the two stbd side sections and then installing them and "on to the ceiling" so to speak.
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Thanks, Ric,
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With the bulwark trim pieces painted it is time to "fish or cut bait" with the bulwark planking. So I trimmed the bulwark sections to fit now that the upper filler is installed and glued the sections in place. Picture shows the stbd side with nine of the eleven planking sections installed. Some how, after check fitting the sections what seems like a hundred times, one of them ended up 1/8" short and the forward most section just did not fit the way it should so I am back to rebuilding these two. I am going to fit the port side sections before starting them as I now fear one or more of them are not correct. That is really maddening - that I would not notice an 1/8" error. Oh well, getting older and not wiser I guess.
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To maximize the "pre-outfitting" (a term used in US Navy shipbuilding in the 1980/90s) I decided to install the various cleats shown on the plans on the ceiling planking before the planking sections are installed on the hull. I got he six mooring cleats from the kit and used some 5mm cleats that I had gotten from Syren Ship Modeling for a previous build but did not use them all. Smoothing out and painting tohe mooring cleats was no issue but getting the laser char off the 5mm cleats was a real pain, plus there are 11 of them on each side. I think I spent more time filing off char and then putting on a coat of clear flat on the 22 cleats than I did masking and painting the hull. Here are the cleats in the storage box waiting for me to finish painting the ceiling plank sections.
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I finished up painting the bulwark trim pieces and the plank-sheer, waterways and interior plank trim pieces - all went well with the new airbrush - at least so far. Here is another shot of the masking to paint both inside and outside in one session.
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I got a new Paasche Talon airbrush yesterday ( I did not care for my existing Paasche VL siphon feed airbrush and I took my instruction with a Talon soooo) and this is my first attempt at using it ( after practicing on some paper and blank wood). I masked off the wales (they will be hand painted black) and the top of the frames (a 1/32" X 3/32" trim piece (painted black) will be glued here) and the far side. I will likely go over this again as I was not all that pleased with the paint (too thin I think) and need to get better coverage of the plank-sheer in the way of the gun ports (although this will get additional coverage when the waterways, plank-sheer and ceiling trim pieces are painted red later).
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I decided that since I have built the ceiling planking separate from the framing that it would be prudent to add the eyebolts and breech tackle rings for the gun tackle and the cleats (mooring and "regular") to the ceiling planking before installation. So I made up 32 (plus a few) sets of eyebolts with 1/8"split rings and blackened them along with a similar number of plain eyebolts that will be installed on the ceiling planking sections. It is my intention to build a jig (probably two - one for each side) to ensure the eyebolts and breech tackle rings are positioned correctly on each ceiling planking section. Here are the eyebolts and breech tackle rings drying after blackening.
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Thanks Ric - waiting for some "stuff" from Micro Mark to move forward. Good luck with the row boat.
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With the bulwark and ceiling planking sections competed it is time to paint the waterway, plank-sheer and the trim boards around the gun and sweep ports. I put on two coats of primer by brush with a light sanding w/400 grit between coats and 600 grit after the second. Then I got my courage up and made another pass with my new airbrush. It came out pretty well so I hit that with some 800 grit and am now considering whether to put the red on with the airbrush. I still need to do some more clean-up on the stern so will have some time before I have to make that decision. Also need to get the yellow and dark green out to put the finish coats on the bulwark and ceiling planking sections.
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Completed the port ceiling planking sections. Bulwark and ceiling planking now completed - now to paint and assembly them all. As I have said before I would probably have assembled each of these sections (at least the ones with the rectangular gun ports) as complete units (framing and planking) off ship and then installed them as finished (painted) units if I had looked ahead in a more timely mann er. Something I will consider wen I move to the next project (Syren).
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Here is a picture of the back side of the starboard forward most ceiling section showing the slits cut into the 1/64" plywood to which the ceiling planks are glued to make it bend more easily. Also shows that the planking is slightly larger than the plywood to allow for final adjustments without impacting the plywood.
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Starboard side ceiling planking is complete. Sections are just sitting in place. Need to paint and install the upper stringer and paint the waterway, plank-sheer and edge timbers then paint and install both the bulwark planking and the ceiling planking "sections. Trying to decide whether to paint and complete the starboard side and then manufacture the ceiling for the port side or do that now and paint/install both sides together. Leaning toward doing both sides together but have that nagging fear that I have overlooked something that will come back to bite me later that doing the starboard side may reveal before it is too late to correct on the port side. Something to consider at least overnight. Just noticed in the picture that I have to bevel the plank-sheer and waterway on the starboard side. looks like I did the port side but forgot about the starboard. Another thing to do before painting.
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Knowing what I know now I would be tempted to build most of the bulwark "modules" off ship, including the planking on both sides and then glue the modules onto the keel/bulkhead framework. Since all of the modules connect to at least one bulkhead, getting them in the correct place should not be too difficult. Have the 3/32 X 3/32 top rail clamped in place as well to provide an additional reference. Would certainly make adding all the "end pieces" easier and probably more accurate. Trying to accurately glue a 3/!6 X 3/64 X 3/64 piece onto the sweep port framing (and doing it 36 times from across the hull was more fun than I am willing to have on a frequent basis.
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