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jim_smits

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  1. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from drtrap in HMS Diana 1794 by Ray - FINISHED - Caldercraft - A 38 gun Heavy Frigate   
    Hi Ray
     
    I found the most simple effective way to make a mouse was to simply serve upto where you want to locate the mouse and then serve backwards and forwards over 5-10mm (depends on size you want) gradually building the mouse up.
     
    Dab on some dilute PVA every pass to hold it all together. After two or three passes, start favouring the 'thicker' end of the mouse with smaller extra passes and then finish with a couple of full passes and then continue serving down the the stay.
     
    Hope this all makes sense.
     
    Jim
  2. Like
    jim_smits reacted to Ray in HMS Diana 1794 by Ray - FINISHED - Caldercraft - A 38 gun Heavy Frigate   
    The lower mast shrouds, ratlines, futtock shrouds, and the catharpins have been completed, also the main part of the bowsprit has been set onto the hull and rigged plus the gammoning has been done, also the rigging at the bow, for the main stay and the preventer stay.
    I am now in the process of making the stays,the mouse being the most awkward part to make,I tried tapering some wooded dowel drilling and threading them onto the rope but found serving over them did not work out well, so I am making them by tying thread around the rope, thick first and tapering with thinner rope, coating with PVA and serving,and then serving again when the whole stay is served,they are much smoother that they look in the photos.









  3. Like
    jim_smits reacted to egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build   
    And An Even Better Update.. With Photo's (Plural !!) This Time, Yup!  I Really Spoil You Eh ?  
     
    Well the Masts & Bowsprit are shaped and dry fitted, it all went much much easier than anticipated, admittedly I anticipated disaster at every turn !!  Those Mini Lathe things are the absolute Business, though after my 'Finger -v- Channel Pin' fiasco from a couple of days ago I half expected my body to become totally wrapped around the spinning pre Masts   
    BTW the reason the Masts/Bowsprit look so dark in the photos is simply because I cleaned them off with Turps prior to putting the Clear Matt on them.
    As you can see there is quiet a Rake on the Masts, so I wanted them in place (even temporarily) to help with positioning the Chains.
     
    My proper camera is still away so I'm still using the old compact I'm afraid (much less control over settings as you can see from the well dodgy photo quality)
     
    Remember Comments Are Always Welcome.. Unless you are pointing out a major flaw that I missed and won't be able to fix.. in that case 'Not So Welcome'     
     
    Bye For Now
     
    Eamonn


  4. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build   
    You're not building outside are you?
     
    My workshop is in the conservatory and the noise of rain is rather theraputic....
  5. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from drtrap in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build   
    You're not building outside are you?
     
    My workshop is in the conservatory and the noise of rain is rather theraputic....
  6. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from jonny.amy in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    Made it back from my folks today and got to checking through the Ballahoo contents. Unfortunately the 2mm walnut sprue is missing from the box. Tried to call Caldercraft today but haven't got any answer. I will try again on Monday and see if I can get an answer.
     
    As for the contents, the quality is reasonable but not amazing, but then the kit is only £60 so I won't complain. Lime first planking and walnut second planking. The contents list shows 0.5mm Lime for the decking but the manual states that it is 0.5mm maple. The two sets of wood look very similar (other than being 0.5mm and 1mm) and I am no expert on differences between Lime and Maple. Are they of similar appearance?
     
    First steps so far have been to cut the keel, frames and cradle from the 5mm ply sheet. All pieces have been sanded and a basic check of the fit has been made. Over the weekend I will make a start on bevelling the frames.
  7. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from tkay11 in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    The served line can now be added to the mast by creating a loop and seizing.
     
    First looped round the mast and used a clamp to hold in place.

     
    Again using Gutermann, the loop can be seized by tying half knots alternatively over and under. First knot over....


     
    Loop is more secure and add second knot under.

     
    Repeat until the seizing is of a suitable length and paint with dilute PVA.

     
    Once dry the ends can be trimmed with tweezers and scalpel.
     
    Repeat for other shrouds required and then onto deadeyes at the bottom of the shroud.
  8. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from tkay11 in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    Right then, time for an update!
     
    Got a few bits done. Added ratlines to the foremast shrouds, decided to go with natural thread for the ratlines. Really like the contrast between the shrouds and the ratlines. Still don't enjoy tying loads of love hitches but hey ho, it's got to be done. Shouldn't really complain as there aren't that many. Wait until I get onto Diana and Victory....
     
    Completed the foremast stay. Used the serving machine to serve around 6cm of line, then passed back and forth several times over a 5mm length to build up a mouse. Each pass was painted with a dab of diluted PVA to help hold the mouse together. Finished off with a further couple of centimetres of serving.
     
    Added a loop in the end of the stay by folding the stay back on itself, holding in place using a set of helping hands and then added a false splice to complete the loop. Passed the other end of the stay through the loop and tightened until the mouse was snugly set in the loop and added to the top of the foremast. Added in a deadeye as per the shrouds and threaded in the lanyard.
     
    Finally, rigged in the bobstay from the bowsprit to the front of bow with a rigging hook.
     
     





  9. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from drtrap in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    Stergios
    The half knots when alternated will pretty much look identical to served line. This is pretty much the only method I got to work that will create a tight loop around the mast.
    On the Snake you'll also have a couple of shrouds that are single lines. For these you'll need to do a false splice.
  10. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from egkb in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    The served line can now be added to the mast by creating a loop and seizing.
     
    First looped round the mast and used a clamp to hold in place.

     
    Again using Gutermann, the loop can be seized by tying half knots alternatively over and under. First knot over....


     
    Loop is more secure and add second knot under.

     
    Repeat until the seizing is of a suitable length and paint with dilute PVA.

     
    Once dry the ends can be trimmed with tweezers and scalpel.
     
    Repeat for other shrouds required and then onto deadeyes at the bottom of the shroud.
  11. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from egkb in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    As promised to Stergios I have documented my method for producing one of the shrouds.
     
    Started off with a suitable length of 0.75mm black thread for the shroud line and mounted up into the serving machine.

     
    Passed a needle through the shroud.

     
    Threaded the needle with Gutermann thread for the serving.

     
    Passed the needle and thread through the shroud line.

     
    Repeat at 90 degrees.

     
    Knot the end, trim and paint with some diluted PVA and allow to dry.

     
    To serve hold the Gutermann thread between finger and thumb to keep taut but still allow to pass through as the serving machine is rotated.

     
    I estimated that I needed 8cm served for the top loop of the shrouds.

     
    Keeping the tension in the thread, cut off and thread through a needle and pass through the shroud line twice, tie off and paint with PVA.
     
    Once complete the loose ends can be trimmed back to the main line with tweezers and a sharp scalpel.
     
     
     
     
  12. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from drtrap in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build   
    Nice deep colour to the decking. What did you treat your wood with?
  13. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from drtrap in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    The served line can now be added to the mast by creating a loop and seizing.
     
    First looped round the mast and used a clamp to hold in place.

     
    Again using Gutermann, the loop can be seized by tying half knots alternatively over and under. First knot over....


     
    Loop is more secure and add second knot under.

     
    Repeat until the seizing is of a suitable length and paint with dilute PVA.

     
    Once dry the ends can be trimmed with tweezers and scalpel.
     
    Repeat for other shrouds required and then onto deadeyes at the bottom of the shroud.
  14. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from ccoyle in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    As promised to Stergios I have documented my method for producing one of the shrouds.
     
    Started off with a suitable length of 0.75mm black thread for the shroud line and mounted up into the serving machine.

     
    Passed a needle through the shroud.

     
    Threaded the needle with Gutermann thread for the serving.

     
    Passed the needle and thread through the shroud line.

     
    Repeat at 90 degrees.

     
    Knot the end, trim and paint with some diluted PVA and allow to dry.

     
    To serve hold the Gutermann thread between finger and thumb to keep taut but still allow to pass through as the serving machine is rotated.

     
    I estimated that I needed 8cm served for the top loop of the shrouds.

     
    Keeping the tension in the thread, cut off and thread through a needle and pass through the shroud line twice, tie off and paint with PVA.
     
    Once complete the loose ends can be trimmed back to the main line with tweezers and a sharp scalpel.
     
     
     
     
  15. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from ccoyle in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    Right then, time for an update!
     
    Got a few bits done. Added ratlines to the foremast shrouds, decided to go with natural thread for the ratlines. Really like the contrast between the shrouds and the ratlines. Still don't enjoy tying loads of love hitches but hey ho, it's got to be done. Shouldn't really complain as there aren't that many. Wait until I get onto Diana and Victory....
     
    Completed the foremast stay. Used the serving machine to serve around 6cm of line, then passed back and forth several times over a 5mm length to build up a mouse. Each pass was painted with a dab of diluted PVA to help hold the mouse together. Finished off with a further couple of centimetres of serving.
     
    Added a loop in the end of the stay by folding the stay back on itself, holding in place using a set of helping hands and then added a false splice to complete the loop. Passed the other end of the stay through the loop and tightened until the mouse was snugly set in the loop and added to the top of the foremast. Added in a deadeye as per the shrouds and threaded in the lanyard.
     
    Finally, rigged in the bobstay from the bowsprit to the front of bow with a rigging hook.
     
     





  16. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from drtrap in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    As promised to Stergios I have documented my method for producing one of the shrouds.
     
    Started off with a suitable length of 0.75mm black thread for the shroud line and mounted up into the serving machine.

     
    Passed a needle through the shroud.

     
    Threaded the needle with Gutermann thread for the serving.

     
    Passed the needle and thread through the shroud line.

     
    Repeat at 90 degrees.

     
    Knot the end, trim and paint with some diluted PVA and allow to dry.

     
    To serve hold the Gutermann thread between finger and thumb to keep taut but still allow to pass through as the serving machine is rotated.

     
    I estimated that I needed 8cm served for the top loop of the shrouds.

     
    Keeping the tension in the thread, cut off and thread through a needle and pass through the shroud line twice, tie off and paint with PVA.
     
    Once complete the loose ends can be trimmed back to the main line with tweezers and a sharp scalpel.
     
     
     
     
  17. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from drtrap in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    Right then, time for an update!
     
    Got a few bits done. Added ratlines to the foremast shrouds, decided to go with natural thread for the ratlines. Really like the contrast between the shrouds and the ratlines. Still don't enjoy tying loads of love hitches but hey ho, it's got to be done. Shouldn't really complain as there aren't that many. Wait until I get onto Diana and Victory....
     
    Completed the foremast stay. Used the serving machine to serve around 6cm of line, then passed back and forth several times over a 5mm length to build up a mouse. Each pass was painted with a dab of diluted PVA to help hold the mouse together. Finished off with a further couple of centimetres of serving.
     
    Added a loop in the end of the stay by folding the stay back on itself, holding in place using a set of helping hands and then added a false splice to complete the loop. Passed the other end of the stay through the loop and tightened until the mouse was snugly set in the loop and added to the top of the foremast. Added in a deadeye as per the shrouds and threaded in the lanyard.
     
    Finally, rigged in the bobstay from the bowsprit to the front of bow with a rigging hook.
     
     





  18. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build   
    Nice deep colour to the decking. What did you treat your wood with?
  19. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from drtrap in HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft   
    Not quite the same build but I will (hopefully) be serving and seizing the shrouds on my Ballahoo main mast tonight. I will take prictures of the process and post on my build. Hope this will help you out a bit.
  20. Like
    jim_smits reacted to egkb in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    That looks fantastic Jim, am loving the Mouse !! Oh and the contrast between the Shrouds & Ratlines is brillo too.. will have to give it serious consideration  
     
    All The Best Mate
     
    Eamonn 
  21. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from GuntherMT in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    Right then, time for an update!
     
    Got a few bits done. Added ratlines to the foremast shrouds, decided to go with natural thread for the ratlines. Really like the contrast between the shrouds and the ratlines. Still don't enjoy tying loads of love hitches but hey ho, it's got to be done. Shouldn't really complain as there aren't that many. Wait until I get onto Diana and Victory....
     
    Completed the foremast stay. Used the serving machine to serve around 6cm of line, then passed back and forth several times over a 5mm length to build up a mouse. Each pass was painted with a dab of diluted PVA to help hold the mouse together. Finished off with a further couple of centimetres of serving.
     
    Added a loop in the end of the stay by folding the stay back on itself, holding in place using a set of helping hands and then added a false splice to complete the loop. Passed the other end of the stay through the loop and tightened until the mouse was snugly set in the loop and added to the top of the foremast. Added in a deadeye as per the shrouds and threaded in the lanyard.
     
    Finally, rigged in the bobstay from the bowsprit to the front of bow with a rigging hook.
     
     





  22. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from moflea in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    Right then, time for an update!
     
    Got a few bits done. Added ratlines to the foremast shrouds, decided to go with natural thread for the ratlines. Really like the contrast between the shrouds and the ratlines. Still don't enjoy tying loads of love hitches but hey ho, it's got to be done. Shouldn't really complain as there aren't that many. Wait until I get onto Diana and Victory....
     
    Completed the foremast stay. Used the serving machine to serve around 6cm of line, then passed back and forth several times over a 5mm length to build up a mouse. Each pass was painted with a dab of diluted PVA to help hold the mouse together. Finished off with a further couple of centimetres of serving.
     
    Added a loop in the end of the stay by folding the stay back on itself, holding in place using a set of helping hands and then added a false splice to complete the loop. Passed the other end of the stay through the loop and tightened until the mouse was snugly set in the loop and added to the top of the foremast. Added in a deadeye as per the shrouds and threaded in the lanyard.
     
    Finally, rigged in the bobstay from the bowsprit to the front of bow with a rigging hook.
     
     





  23. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from egkb in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    Right then, time for an update!
     
    Got a few bits done. Added ratlines to the foremast shrouds, decided to go with natural thread for the ratlines. Really like the contrast between the shrouds and the ratlines. Still don't enjoy tying loads of love hitches but hey ho, it's got to be done. Shouldn't really complain as there aren't that many. Wait until I get onto Diana and Victory....
     
    Completed the foremast stay. Used the serving machine to serve around 6cm of line, then passed back and forth several times over a 5mm length to build up a mouse. Each pass was painted with a dab of diluted PVA to help hold the mouse together. Finished off with a further couple of centimetres of serving.
     
    Added a loop in the end of the stay by folding the stay back on itself, holding in place using a set of helping hands and then added a false splice to complete the loop. Passed the other end of the stay through the loop and tightened until the mouse was snugly set in the loop and added to the top of the foremast. Added in a deadeye as per the shrouds and threaded in the lanyard.
     
    Finally, rigged in the bobstay from the bowsprit to the front of bow with a rigging hook.
     
     





  24. Like
    jim_smits reacted to drtrap in HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft   
    Here is my 1st attempt using the cotton line No 10

    A photo shot showing the three different serving lines (cotton 10 on the right, polyester in the middle and cotton 40 on the left) from a distance

    A close up view of the cotton 10

    A close up view of the 100% polyester line

    and the close up view of the cotton 40...

     
    For the mo I really don't know which one is the best to use as my serving line....
    That's for today
    Thanks again.
     
    Cheers
     
     

  25. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from drtrap in HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft   
    Hi Stergios
     
    I used the rope diameters as stated in the plans. To do the actual serving my current method is as follows:
     
    Attached the line to be served to the serving machine having confirmed the length to be served.
    Pass a sewing needle through the line at the start point and leave it in the line. Thread the serving line into needle and pull through. Keeping needle threaded, pass it through the same point gain at 90 degrees to first pass.
    Knot the lines with a basic knot and dab a little watered PVA on the knot. This will hold fast and you can start serving immediately before PVA dries.
    I use my right hand to turn the serving machine and my left hand to hold the serving thread. I use my index finger and thumb to hold the line keeping it slightly taut and slightly ahead of the serve, whilst allowing line to pass through as the serving takes place.
    Once at the finishing point you have to be careful. Pass a needle through (still holding serving line in left hand!) at the ending point. Thread the end of serving line through keeping taut. Pull needle though twice as before. Line will now be held. Knot and glue with watered PVA.
    I will post some pictures later if that helps.
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