jim_smits

First off let me say Hello to all the Lords of the Dark Side, your tolerance will be gratefully accepted.
 
I would like to give plaudits to Jeff Hayes of Hobbymills for superb quality materials, the timber really is first class, also to Jeff Staudt for a fine set of drawings.
 
A special thanks to Grant for all his hard work in working out the quantity of timber required and the different types, I just had to make some minor adjustments to the order. Below is a taster of the timber to be used.
 
 
 
As you are probably aware this is a group project build with Grant, Jack and myself, ( at the moment ), this the first scratch build for all of us apart from prefabricating kits parts that were not happy with and I think we've all done that.   
 
It would be great if others wanted to join in. We will be working in unison and posting in our own logs and this is the start of my log.
 
I started by practicing with my tools and would you believe it this framing jig appeared, as this was a practice piece and it didn't count towards the build but on investigation I found I hadn't got any more material I could use and so had to keep it.    
 
 
 
Following on from the jig, I started practicing on the frames themselves and I found out a few things I need to work on, 1st, Don't cut so close to the lines, give your self a bit of room. 2nd, Easy on the sanders, don't put so much pressure when sanding down and 3rd, It doesn't take much to remove the skin from the knuckles with a disc sander, this had been switched of and was slowing down, I helped it stop and found out how good my bandaids are.
 
I made a double frame but will not be using it, I can and will do better.
 
 
 
 
 
Following on from that I attempted the Keel, this is made up from 4 pieces, Ebony for the Keel, followed by Swiss Pear for the False Keel Upper and Lower and the Hog. This Keel looks difficult but in reality is quite simple, you just need to be accurate, a rabbet is cut into it when all the pieces are assembled. I was going to use my router for this but there is a deviation 2/3rds along it's length so this had to be cut by hand, I used my trusty Stanley knife carefully, (we have a history) and finished with a triangle file. Below is the completed practice keel
 
 
 
So, that's the start of my new log, if anyone has any questions please don't be afraid to ask Grant !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 

Excellent build Mobbsie! Many congratulations on completing her!

It is brazing if correctly titled but I think many just call it silver soldering. I use a silver flux paste from a syringe. Dead simple and excellent joint for this high tension rigging areas.

Hi mate,
 
I've got a gas pen torch and I use it for silver soldering which is WAY better than standard soldering for strength. Did my deadeye strops for my Bally with brass wire and silver flux. Definately the way to go. Having said that my traditional soldering iron is getting a workout at the moment whilst I dabble in some electronics (which is distracting me from my builds.....)

I think Jason has been distracted by his other build.... Not that i'm much better......

Hi mate,
 
I've got a gas pen torch and I use it for silver soldering which is WAY better than standard soldering for strength. Did my deadeye strops for my Bally with brass wire and silver flux. Definately the way to go. Having said that my traditional soldering iron is getting a workout at the moment whilst I dabble in some electronics (which is distracting me from my builds.....)

I think Jason has been distracted by his other build.... Not that i'm much better......

All Righty Then.. Photos of Carronades as Promised.. Cos I'm Nice Like That   
 
Fairly noticeable size difference don't you think,  they are both allegedly 12 lbr's though the Upgrade is more the correct size, as per my sources they should be circa 2 feet 2 inch long which is a little over 1 cm at scale.. The kit ones probably wouldn't be out of place on the fore-deck of Victory 
The upgrades were bright brass when they arrived and were chemically 'blackened' to this deep metallic looking bronze colour.  Looking at them in the first proper bit of sun-light I've seen since treating them it seems they may need to go a little darker!
I shall have to contemplate this over a coffee or two...   
 
later edit.. for some reason some of my posts seem to have unintentional large bold text in them.. don't know why this is happening.. it isn't in the original 'pre posting' versions.
 
Take Care Folks
 
Eamonn

I've purchased Gutermann thread from eBay. You can get all you'll ever need for a few euros. I've purchased Black and Tan for various requirements.
 
In addition to use on serving machine I use it for splices, and simulating seizing as described in the carronades section oft Ballahoo build.

Stergios - I'd add my voice to the 'support for serving' club.  In my view, it makes a big difference in the look of the rigging.  The principle of serving is very simple, theres no manual, but I've seen people sharing individual ideas and I've tried to do that as I goalong, a lot of it comes down to what you find works for you.  It does take more time, but I decided to commit as I would not have been happy with the non-served rigging and am glad I did.  I use Alexey Domanoff's excellent machine as seen here on MSW and have been happy along with many others, he does provide a guide on his website to the basic techniques.  Let us know what you decide!

The build is really coming together Stergios.
 
I would recommend serving as it looks excellent and is well worth the time. I wish I had served all my shrouds on my Snake.

Cheers guys.
 
I've done the ratlines in 0.25mm thread supplied with the kit. All tied in clove hitches and then soaked in watered PVA glue.
 
To trim off the ends I just used a pair of tweezers and a sharp scalpel.

Quick update on the Ballahoo.
 
Onto my favourite task of tying ratlines..... Gone with the tan line and it interesting to see the contrast to the black shrouds. Only got as far as the port side so far but making progress.
 
I draw a paper template for the shrouds and the spacing of the ratlines and used this to tie every fourth ratline. Double checked the spacing and then added every second and finally filled the gaps. Once the spacing was sorted I fixed in place with some diluted PVA, allowed to dry and trimmed of the ends.
 
Still got a bit to do towards the top end and then onto the starboard side.

Cheers guys.
 
I've done the ratlines in 0.25mm thread supplied with the kit. All tied in clove hitches and then soaked in watered PVA glue.
 
To trim off the ends I just used a pair of tweezers and a sharp scalpel.

Quick update on the Ballahoo.
 
Onto my favourite task of tying ratlines..... Gone with the tan line and it interesting to see the contrast to the black shrouds. Only got as far as the port side so far but making progress.
 
I draw a paper template for the shrouds and the spacing of the ratlines and used this to tie every fourth ratline. Double checked the spacing and then added every second and finally filled the gaps. Once the spacing was sorted I fixed in place with some diluted PVA, allowed to dry and trimmed of the ends.
 
Still got a bit to do towards the top end and then onto the starboard side.

Trying to fit the burton pendants...
I used black line 1mm from the kit and passed it three times on natural wax....
The wax's debris are inevitable (?) especially on the black rope...
Last pic after the debridement and a light black paint...

Progress is continuing.
 
Moved onto rigging the ship. Got the shrouds on the foremast in place. I served a section of each shroud which was to be secured around the mast. The first two shrouds on each side were formed from one length which was seized to form a loop around the mast.
 
Deadeyes were then attached to the bottom of the shrouds using a couple of lengths of brass wire to act as a spacer between the deadeye on the channel and the deadeye to be attached to the shroud. Then seized the deadeye in place and painted some dilute PVA into the seizings to fix all in place.
 
I've added the lanyards but these are not fully tight as I will tweak the tension later.
 
Also now painted over the rudder straps as per replies from everyone.
 
 

Cheers Eamonn!
 
I wouldn't say hard but I had to take it slow and steady. I marked two bands 6mm apart at a point on the dowel leaving about 5mm leeway at top and bottom.
 
Scored these two bands with a scalpel down to the approx depth required, about 1mm. Then very carefully shaved flakes away to form the cone and taper the top. Finished off with sandpaper to smooth back to the circular cross section.
 
As I say, not too hard just take your time and use a fresh blade with lots of small strokes.

Quick update on the Ballahoo.
 
Onto my favourite task of tying ratlines..... Gone with the tan line and it interesting to see the contrast to the black shrouds. Only got as far as the port side so far but making progress.
 
I draw a paper template for the shrouds and the spacing of the ratlines and used this to tie every fourth ratline. Double checked the spacing and then added every second and finally filled the gaps. Once the spacing was sorted I fixed in place with some diluted PVA, allowed to dry and trimmed of the ends.
 
Still got a bit to do towards the top end and then onto the starboard side.

Quick update on the Ballahoo.
 
Onto my favourite task of tying ratlines..... Gone with the tan line and it interesting to see the contrast to the black shrouds. Only got as far as the port side so far but making progress.
 
I draw a paper template for the shrouds and the spacing of the ratlines and used this to tie every fourth ratline. Double checked the spacing and then added every second and finally filled the gaps. Once the spacing was sorted I fixed in place with some diluted PVA, allowed to dry and trimmed of the ends.
 
Still got a bit to do towards the top end and then onto the starboard side.

Quick update on the Ballahoo.
 
Onto my favourite task of tying ratlines..... Gone with the tan line and it interesting to see the contrast to the black shrouds. Only got as far as the port side so far but making progress.
 
I draw a paper template for the shrouds and the spacing of the ratlines and used this to tie every fourth ratline. Double checked the spacing and then added every second and finally filled the gaps. Once the spacing was sorted I fixed in place with some diluted PVA, allowed to dry and trimmed of the ends.
 
Still got a bit to do towards the top end and then onto the starboard side.

Fear was ever present! The old mantra of triple check was changed to quintuple check.....!

Fear was ever present! The old mantra of triple check was changed to quintuple check.....!

Fear was ever present! The old mantra of triple check was changed to quintuple check.....!

Glued the bowspirit into place and gammoned to the bow rails. This took a good long time to thread the gammoning in and around the bow rail structure but got there in the end. Threaded the end in place and then glued down with watered down PVA.
 
Added some rigging to the bowspirit, to form the martingale rig, and added the four lines from the bow onto the deadeyes on the bowspirit. Also added the first set of rigging lines to the boomkins.
 
Massive learning curve dealing with rigging lines. If anyone has any recommendations for websites or books that have a good description of modelling techniques and tricks I would be grateful.