Jump to content

jim_smits

Members
  • Posts

    650
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation Activity

  1. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from Jonny 007 in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    Starboard side second planking almost complete!
     
    I just need to add in a few stealers at the stern and one more at the bow. Then onto the port side.
     
    Had a tricky little section where the planking from the keel started to meet the planking at the bulwarks but nothing too horrendous that a bit of though and sanding couldn't resolve.
     
    After this a generous sanding, filling and sealing with watered PVA before cutting out the gunports.



  2. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from Jonny 007 in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    Quick update for you all.
     
    Managed to complete the first planking. It was interesting comparing the planking of this smaller vessel as compared to the Snake that I had previously done, with a far greater emphasis on the angle between the keel and the top of the bulwarks. I was adding in stealers from the word go. No great problems however, although the final couple of planks were not the most 'regular' shaped in the world but it will not matter in the big scheme of things.
     
    Next steps will be to continue sanding to a smooth finish, adding a few bits of filler in a couple of places with a slight depression and also to 'paint' the entire hull with a bit of diluted PVA to strengthen the build.
     
    The first planking really does the ship a sudden sense of being. The lines are now there....!
     

     

     
     
     
  3. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from drtrap in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build   
    Hi Stergios
    If I remember correctly I sanded the bottom of the mast itself and added a shim so that the very bottom of the mast is shifted to remove the slant.
  4. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from GuntherMT in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build   
    Good building session today and over the last week; I have now completed all of the standing rigging as per the plans and this feels like another big step towards completion.
     
    Completed the Main Topstay and preventer stay after deciding to belay to two of the spare mast cleats. It was a touch tricky to complete the rigging of the sister block and single block, as I needed to hook the single blocks to the deck eyelets that were between the foremast and pinrail.
     

     

     
    Also completed the top gallant fore stay, and thanks to Jason, by use of a pair of thimbles to rig the end to one of the forestay heart blocks.
     

     
    The ship really does start to come alive with all of the extra rigging in place.
     

     

     
    Need to check all of the running rigging plans and add any remaining blocks required to the masts. Next main steps will be to put together all of the spars. Change of pace first perhaps, and to complete the second planking of the Ballahoo kit.
  5. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from drtrap in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build   
    Your deck looks fantastic Jason. The extra detail of the chimney and on the companionway look great.
     
    I like your adjustments to the masts. I went the rather simplistic route of cutting the square sections of the mast from the dowel.
  6. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from Jonny 007 in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    Started work on the channels.
     
    The kit comes with deadeye strops that fit into a hole drilled in the channel notches. These strike me as not only a poor shape, having a flat profile as opposed to circular, but also the strop is 'split' and seems weak to me. So I decided to create my own deadeye strops from 0.5mm brass wire.
     
    Firstly created a coil of brass wire by wrapping the wire around a 6mm diameter dowel. I then used a pair of snips to cut rings from the coil to use as the strops.
     

     
    Each ring is manipulated to bring the ends together with a good edge and the tension holding the ends together, ready for soldering.
     

     
    Added a little blob of silver solder and flux paste.
     

     
    Used a butane soldering torch on a low flame to carefully solder the ends together to form a complete ring.
     

     
    The ring can then be bent around a deadeye to form the strop.
     


     
    I completed three deadeyes and strops, added the rest of the chainplate assembly and painted with primer and then black. Added the three assemblies to the channel and then glued the capping bar in place.
     

     
    Glued and pinned the channel to the ship just below the capping rail and drilled and pinned the chainplates to the wale and touched up with black paint.
     

     

     
    Just need to repeat another three times.....
     
     
     
  7. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from drtrap in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    Hi all,
     
    Sorry it's been a bit of a while. Life has got in the way and there's been a couple of ups and downs. In addition the conservatory workshop is not very conducive to working in the summer as it gets a touch hot. 
     
    Anyway, went back to the builds today. Completed deadeye strops for the rear channels, and just painting and adding the chainplates.
     
    Will need to assemble and add to the channels and seal with the capping bar.
     
    Good to get back into the groove.
  8. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from Jonny 007 in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    Another quick update. (in the correct build log this time......)
     
    Last for a few days as I am off camping in Weymouth for a few days.
     
    Just a slight update on the carronade rigging. Decided to frape the loose thread around the tackle to leave a tidy finish, painted with diluted PVA and then trimmed off the excess thread. Might not be historically accurate to any degree but it leaves a neat and tidy finish I am happy with.
     
     


  9. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from egkb in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    Hi all,
     
    Sorry it's been a bit of a while. Life has got in the way and there's been a couple of ups and downs. In addition the conservatory workshop is not very conducive to working in the summer as it gets a touch hot. 
     
    Anyway, went back to the builds today. Completed deadeye strops for the rear channels, and just painting and adding the chainplates.
     
    Will need to assemble and add to the channels and seal with the capping bar.
     
    Good to get back into the groove.
  10. Like
    jim_smits reacted to Beef Wellington in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build   
    Hipexec, BE, Alistair, Eamonn, Mike, Hamilton - thanks for the kind words, means a lot coming from you guys.
     
    Tim - I'm still struggling with this a little myself but definitely getting my eye in I think.  Thanks for the kind comments
     
    Small bit of progress - ratlines are now completed, I say again, ratlines are now completed!  Little bit of a celebration, I haven't found these too bad and have figured out a rhythm that works.  What most bothers me is that I deliberately tried to avoid using line that was too thick to keep it looking the right scale, - I think I ended up with line that still looks a little thick to scale (not horribly so) but I will do differently next time.  Not everything is finally fixed yet, but she's starting to look more like a ship.
     
    Started securing some of the various topmast back stays.  I followed the plans on these - why use just a couple of blocks when you could use more!  Next job will be to secure to the pins.
     

  11. Like
    jim_smits reacted to StuartC in HMS Warrior by StuartC - Billing Boats - 1:100 - started 1/1/2014   
    Hi Peeps,
    Good progress this week. The hull is now painted and I have fitted the propeller (temporary push fit). The propeller provided with the kit conforms to the actual thing, However I would really like to fit one made of brass, I do not have the facilities, knowledge, etc to cast one myself, and the only thing I can find on line are modern props that just do not look right. The prop I have now is 70mm, I thought of buying a larger model in brass and filing it down to the correct look. However (again) the largest I could find was 72mm, and that does not give me enough wiggle room. Any suggestions?




  12. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from GuntherMT in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    Another quick update. (in the correct build log this time......)
     
    Last for a few days as I am off camping in Weymouth for a few days.
     
    Just a slight update on the carronade rigging. Decided to frape the loose thread around the tackle to leave a tidy finish, painted with diluted PVA and then trimmed off the excess thread. Might not be historically accurate to any degree but it leaves a neat and tidy finish I am happy with.
     
     


  13. Like
    jim_smits reacted to Beef Wellington in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build   
    Got the old girl outside today for a few pics, it was such a gorgeous day.  Rigging will probably continue to look a bit scrappy until everything is in place (maybe thats why this tends to be a less photographed stage of any build).  I'm following the principle of avoiding tying things off until absolutely necessary to try to avoid things getting in the way, and continuing to work from stern to bow - its serving me well so far.
     
    The main topmast with the shrouds and stays rigged, its quite the stack.  Backstays have not been finally secured.

     
    Main stay and preventer stay arrangement - these will be finally tensioned and tied off later.  The violin blocks do look rather clunky despite trying to round these off.

     
    Couple of overall shots - she does still look as if she has her curlers in with all the loose line!

  14. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from Beef Wellington in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build   
    Good shout there with the Diana. That will be my next build after Snake and Ballahoo are complete!
  15. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from drtrap in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build   
    Good shout there with the Diana. That will be my next build after Snake and Ballahoo are complete!
  16. Like
    jim_smits reacted to Ray in HMS Diana 1794 by Ray - FINISHED - Caldercraft - A 38 gun Heavy Frigate   
    The hull is now finished and below are some photos.
     
    The next phase will be the masts and the rigging.
     
    SERVING this is one thing that has unoccupied my thoughts, serving the rope is one thing I want to do on Diana that I did not on Pegasus,so how to serve the parts of the rigging that require it, like the top part of the shrouds and the forward ones where the sails can rub according the Rigging Period Ship models by “Lennarth Petersson”. I have been reading through logs to try and find the technique needed to do said serving,and fairly quickly came to the conclusion that the only successful way would to be to use a machine,and the way forward would to be to buy one of Alex’s ones The Machine 2.0 an unforeseen cost at $100 or £62 delivered, but having upgraded the decks, and mast material, is the only way to go, so one was ordered from his website,it came in only a few days nearly as fast as ordering something from home,( I have yet to put it together) pay pal does have its uses . The other item just arrived is black Guterman polyester thread 6 spools for £6 on e bay,
     
    So mast making next and some serving practice.
     
    Mort
    I agree Cornwall model boats give a first class service I have bought all my upgrade materials and extra thread blocks & paint from them.
     














     
  17. Like
    jim_smits reacted to Beef Wellington in HMS Diana 1794 by Ray - FINISHED - Caldercraft - A 38 gun Heavy Frigate   
    Ray, I don't think you'll be disappointed with Alek's serving machine, on a cost per minute basis its a veritable steal I've found 
  18. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from WackoWolf in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    Another quick update. (in the correct build log this time......)
     
    Last for a few days as I am off camping in Weymouth for a few days.
     
    Just a slight update on the carronade rigging. Decided to frape the loose thread around the tackle to leave a tidy finish, painted with diluted PVA and then trimmed off the excess thread. Might not be historically accurate to any degree but it leaves a neat and tidy finish I am happy with.
     
     


  19. Like
    jim_smits reacted to drtrap in HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft   
    Updating in brief...
    Dry fitting of the forward bitts and  bowsprit bracket and the consecutive steps




  20. Like
    jim_smits reacted to egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build   
    Okey Dokey.. Photos as promised ('cos I'm nice like that you see    )
     
    Cap Rails in place (bit of a faf there as they didn't fit so I had to lengthen them slightly.. about 5mm .. Oh and did I mention the weird asymmetry! well it reared it's head again, so a bit of cap rail nudging was required to make it conform to the bulwark shape !! am beginning to think it was there from the very beginning. Oh Well, 'tisn't so bad really  )
    Painted all the new stuff and inside the gun ports (needs to have a 2nd coat at least, and I may end up cracking open some of my mighty filler stock to smoothen them off.
     
    That's us up to date folks, thanks for looking in on Little 'ol Ballahoo.
     
    Stay Well
     
    Eamonn




  21. Like
    jim_smits reacted to egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build   
    By The Way.. I've just cut out the 4 Full Height Gun Ports and opened out the Anchor Holes !
     
    Cap Rails have been sanded and await painting !
     
    All go on Ballahoo.. will need a little lie down at this rate
     
    Stay Well
     
    Eamonn
  22. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from drtrap in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    Hi
     
    I was silver soldering the rings so a soldering iron will not get hot enough as far as I know.
     
    Plus the butane torch is very quick far each joint. Literally less than a second on a low flame was all it took for each joint. Then left with a very strong joint, better than lead solder.
  23. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from GuntherMT in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    Started work on the channels.
     
    The kit comes with deadeye strops that fit into a hole drilled in the channel notches. These strike me as not only a poor shape, having a flat profile as opposed to circular, but also the strop is 'split' and seems weak to me. So I decided to create my own deadeye strops from 0.5mm brass wire.
     
    Firstly created a coil of brass wire by wrapping the wire around a 6mm diameter dowel. I then used a pair of snips to cut rings from the coil to use as the strops.
     

     
    Each ring is manipulated to bring the ends together with a good edge and the tension holding the ends together, ready for soldering.
     

     
    Added a little blob of silver solder and flux paste.
     

     
    Used a butane soldering torch on a low flame to carefully solder the ends together to form a complete ring.
     

     
    The ring can then be bent around a deadeye to form the strop.
     


     
    I completed three deadeyes and strops, added the rest of the chainplate assembly and painted with primer and then black. Added the three assemblies to the channel and then glued the capping bar in place.
     

     
    Glued and pinned the channel to the ship just below the capping rail and drilled and pinned the chainplates to the wale and touched up with black paint.
     

     

     
    Just need to repeat another three times.....
     
     
     
  24. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from Brian Oates in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    Started work on the channels.
     
    The kit comes with deadeye strops that fit into a hole drilled in the channel notches. These strike me as not only a poor shape, having a flat profile as opposed to circular, but also the strop is 'split' and seems weak to me. So I decided to create my own deadeye strops from 0.5mm brass wire.
     
    Firstly created a coil of brass wire by wrapping the wire around a 6mm diameter dowel. I then used a pair of snips to cut rings from the coil to use as the strops.
     

     
    Each ring is manipulated to bring the ends together with a good edge and the tension holding the ends together, ready for soldering.
     

     
    Added a little blob of silver solder and flux paste.
     

     
    Used a butane soldering torch on a low flame to carefully solder the ends together to form a complete ring.
     

     
    The ring can then be bent around a deadeye to form the strop.
     


     
    I completed three deadeyes and strops, added the rest of the chainplate assembly and painted with primer and then black. Added the three assemblies to the channel and then glued the capping bar in place.
     

     
    Glued and pinned the channel to the ship just below the capping rail and drilled and pinned the chainplates to the wale and touched up with black paint.
     

     

     
    Just need to repeat another three times.....
     
     
     
  25. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from egkb in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    Another quick update. (in the correct build log this time......)
     
    Last for a few days as I am off camping in Weymouth for a few days.
     
    Just a slight update on the carronade rigging. Decided to frape the loose thread around the tackle to leave a tidy finish, painted with diluted PVA and then trimmed off the excess thread. Might not be historically accurate to any degree but it leaves a neat and tidy finish I am happy with.
     
     


×
×
  • Create New...