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jim_smits

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  1. Like
    jim_smits reacted to egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build   
    Ok then, we have the Bulwarks glued in place, No End of 'Faff' involved there as plans say to be sure that it reaches the top of all bulkhead 'Horns' well that aint gonna happen as said horns vary in height somewhat! also if you keep the tops all level (Bulwark & Bulkhead Horns) then you are unlikely to meet the top of the transom, so I had to 'interpret' it a bit by keeping Transom /Bulwarks Level, some of the midships B/Heads Level and the Fore Most B/H level.  Later when I do the Sherbourne this will have to be done exactly as the Cannons won't fit if the Bulwarks are misplaced! but on the Ballahoo it shouldn't be a problem as there is no ordinance towards the stern (Oh Oh! those famous last words again.. :mellow: )
    I'll cut out the Capping Rails tomorrow to make sure the Lines of the Bulwark are ok in relation to it, so there is no guarantee that they are in their final position!!
     
    Below is a quick photo of todays work..
     
    Bye For Now.
     
    Eamonn
     

  2. Like
    jim_smits reacted to egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build   
    Newsflash....
     
    - Bulkheads and Filler Blocks are now all bevelled/shaped .
    - Stern Counter Frames are gluing as we speak.
    - False Deck has been dry fitted & sanded flush with the edges of the bulwarks.
    - Stern Counter & Stern Facia removed from their 'matrix' and sanded, I removed the Stern Counter early to help the 4 X Counter Frames in line as they glued.
    - Bulwarks are soaking in water prior to being gently shaped around a 'straight sided' mug. Thanks Jim for that tip, see his Ballahoo build to see what I mean  at 'HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits'.
     
    Here are a few photos of the Shaped Bulkheads and Blocks, compere them to the shots from yesterday above to see the difference.
     
    Thanks for checking in
     
    Bye for Now
     
    Eamonn
     
     
     
     



  3. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from Beef Wellington in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build   
    Fantastic looking work Jason.
     
    Can't quite tell by looking at the pictures but did you cross the shroud line above the deadeye and knot together or did you simply siexe the two ends side by side?
     
    I crossed all of mine, and I can tell you it was really difficult to keep the deadeye in position and secure the shroud in place with it crossed.....
  4. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from egkb in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build   
    Thanks for the image DFellingham.
     
    I had a rummage through Lever, and did a little experimentation. I found in the end I prefered the crossed catharpin, even if it might not be the most accurate method, it seemed to work the best in securing the futtocks at the main top mast.
     
    Moved onto ratlines on the mizzen top mast. These are surprisingly difficult due to the shrouds being thinner in this area. The issues of twisting the shroud are more evident as I tighten the clove hitches.
     
    Finally, I have made a stab at the first back stay on the fore top mast. Got all the rigging together and hooked into the channel ok. The blocks and the rigging of the stay seem to press against the deadeyes and lanyards a touch. Is it correct that the back stay would be 'outside' of the shrouds down to the channel, with the loose end of the rigging crossing under the last ratline in order to be belayed?
  5. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build   
    Looking good Eamonn. I might have to go back to my Ballahoo soon as you'll ovetake me very shortly....!
  6. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from john2013 in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build   
    Excellent progress today!
     
    Glued the crosstree assemblies onto the fore and main masts and replaced the shrouds that I had previously removed. Rethreaded all of the shroud lanyards and just need to seize the ends around the shrouds. I'm pretty much back to where I was before the accident. After that it's back to finishing off the ratlines again. Never thought I'd be glad to be back to ratlines....!


  7. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from garyshipwright in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build   
    Coppering has now been fully replaced and the hull looks so much better now. The new plates don't actually stand out that much from the old plates so I will let them be and see how they look in a couple of weeks.
     
    Now working on re-rigging the shrouds. I had two chainplates snap on the starboard main channel, and all five went on the port channel that was torn off the hull. The easiest way to replace these has been to use 0.75mm black thread in place of the deadeye strop, and tie a double knot to the deadeye to simulate the strop.The loose ends are then fed through the channel and tied to the chain plates. I have had to replace these as well as they were bent out of shape.
     
    Used a little jig to create new chains from 0.5mm brass wire by looping several turns round two nails and then clipping down the side of one length.




  8. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from garyshipwright in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build   
    Channel has been re-pinned and glued back in place.
     
    I am now replacing the copper tiles along the keel bottom and at the stem. Port side is almost complete.
     
    Time to sign off for the new year. See you all in 2014!

  9. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from garyshipwright in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build   
    The keel is now back on, glued and pinned in several places. A very small amount of filler to smooth the edges and then onto re-applying the copper tiles.


  10. Like
    jim_smits reacted to Beef Wellington in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build   
    Main shrouds
     
    Some "notes to self", managed to get a process going for doing the shrouds in a way that felt comfortable, details below and results.  Apologize for the quality of the photos, for some reason these just seem off today.
     
    Hope someone can help with a list of questions:
    Instructions indicate that the futtock stave should be made with 1mm brass wire.  What would this have been made of on actual ship, would it have had rope wrapped around it like serving or puddening? Would people advise to attach the futtock stave before doing ratlines - seems that it might hold the shrouds a little more in place What dictated whether stretchers were attached (or not), and would these have been attached 'permanently', in as much as anything would be permanent. Would catharpins have been so attached so as to deflect the shrouds inwards at the futtock staves, or would the line of the shrouds be maintained? Any insights much appreciated!
     
    Shroud pulled at taught as possible around deadeye, twin spacers being used to keep it steady.  (End that will be trimmed passed up through the tops temporarily)

     
    Overhand knot tied at back and front of shroud a close as possible to the deadeyes.  

     
    Overhand knots then alternated working downward to close up the hole, no more than 3-4 typically required.  Last know secured with G-S Hypo cement and ends trimmed.  Found using some tweezers made this easier to manipulate as the shroud can be controlled much easier.

     
    End trimmed and then end and middle seizing tied using same method as described above

     
    There's something very pleasing about a stack of shrouds!  The fore-most shrouds are served to protect against wear from the sails, this allowed me to establish a new personal best for longest length served (268mm).  I've found it helpful while serving to keep compacting the serving line even if it doesn't appear to need it, it seems to give a more consistent result although I've still not perfected this technique.

     
    Despite best attempts, I just could get the line of the serving to be straight across the shrouds.  I'm guessing that this would have not always been perfect on real ships either despite the pictures in books.  At least thats my story/excuse.

     
    Main shrouds in place, I'll leave in place for now and do a final tightening once all shrouds in place.

  11. Like
    jim_smits reacted to egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build   
    Just some photos of the latest additions (to go with my Post No. 32 above).. All the Bulkheads are glued in position, the deck is only 'dry-fitted' to assist in aligning the B/Heads.
     
    In the Stern on shot, you may just be able to make out the 'thinning' of the Keel where the Stern Post will go to assist later planking (it is the beginnings of the Rabbet) but following great advice I haven't extended the Rabbet forward, this won't be done until 2nd planking (Thanks again to all those who are helping me along, it is much appreciated!)
     
    Sláinte,
     
    Eamonn
     
     





  12. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from cristikc in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build   
    Coppering has now been fully replaced and the hull looks so much better now. The new plates don't actually stand out that much from the old plates so I will let them be and see how they look in a couple of weeks.
     
    Now working on re-rigging the shrouds. I had two chainplates snap on the starboard main channel, and all five went on the port channel that was torn off the hull. The easiest way to replace these has been to use 0.75mm black thread in place of the deadeye strop, and tie a double knot to the deadeye to simulate the strop.The loose ends are then fed through the channel and tied to the chain plates. I have had to replace these as well as they were bent out of shape.
     
    Used a little jig to create new chains from 0.5mm brass wire by looping several turns round two nails and then clipping down the side of one length.




  13. Like
    jim_smits reacted to Beef Wellington in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build   
    Jim, I 'believe' that the foremost shroud was never catharpined, and that similarly any that chafed the mast would also have been excluded.  Does that just leave you with one?  I haven't quite got that far to assess on mine.  Another option would be to go with the infamous cross catharpins.
  14. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build   
    Welcome on board Eamonn!
  15. Like
    jim_smits reacted to egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build   
    Hi All,
     
    This is my first proper wooden boat build, I say proper because some time ago I began building the Bounty from those magazines that came every week (you may be familiar with them) and though she turned out reasonable enough (I'm about 80% complete, just the Rigging to finish) the instructions (there was no 'plan', just text with photos) left a lot to be desired and makes even the simplest task awkward.
    Last Summer I came across MSW and having read and followed many build logs I decided to buy a proper kit, in fact I bought 3 over the past few months! Sherbourne, Convulsion & Ballahoo all at 1:64 and all Smallish Vessels (This is just a personal preference)
    Anyhoo, I have decided to do Ballahoo first, and possibly stagger the others over the coming months.
    (The first time I opened the box and was hit by that pleasant wood smell, reminded me of those old wooden pencil cases from school   Oh! and it was great to unfold 'actual' plans too!)
     
    Right lets begin..
     
    Whilst the Keel and Bulkheads were still in their 'Matrix' (or whatever the wooden surround is called) I oriented the Matrix to the appropriate instruction sheet (in the Booklet) and numbered each piece, as some of those bulkheads may end up in the wrong slots on the Plywood Keel (am sure it would be easy to spot, but why take the chance)
    I then removed the Ply Keel and all the Bulkheads using a Jewellers Saw (tried using a craft knife but ended up having to apply pressure, which didn't sound like a great idea) All items once freed got a light sanding and were then 'Dry' Fitted (see Photos) So Far So Good..
     
    I shall cut a Rabbet and Bearding Line etc (as per Jim Smits and his Ballahoo) though the Plans/Instructions do not call for them, it seems logical when you take the Ply Keel dimensions and 2 layers of Planks into consideration.
     
    Should anyone wish to offer advice, please feel free to do so.. it all helps and I would be very grateful.
     
    Take Care
     
    Eamonn
     





  16. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from egkb in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    Hi,
     
    I cut the bearding and rabbet down to the middle layer of the Ply. So, approx 1mm on each side leaving 2mm in the middle.
     
    Take make the keel more secure I drilled holes to pin the keel before I cut the rabbet line.
     
    Hope that helps.....
  17. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from Jonny 007 in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    Got my replacement parts from JoTiKa today. Great service from them as I only spoke to them on Thursday.
     

     
    Next step for the build is to gradually shape the bulwarks. Using a mug and large clips at the moment. Once they are roughly the correct shape I will bend to the bulkheads on the ship.
     

  18. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from Beef Wellington in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build   
    They look fantastic Jason. Really struggled with the mouse on my stays and this has made it look simple.
     
    Bet you're looking forward to ratlines now.....!
  19. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from garyshipwright in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build   
    Excellent progress today!
     
    Glued the crosstree assemblies onto the fore and main masts and replaced the shrouds that I had previously removed. Rethreaded all of the shroud lanyards and just need to seize the ends around the shrouds. I'm pretty much back to where I was before the accident. After that it's back to finishing off the ratlines again. Never thought I'd be glad to be back to ratlines....!


  20. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from egkb in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    Run into a minor issue I think. Having started to shape and test the bulwarks against the frames, it looks like the third bulkhead isn't quite wide enough and will result in a dip in planking on the starboard side. I am hoping that I will be able to solve this with some spare lime planking and then a careful reshape, using a plank to test the line of the hull.
     
    Hopefully this shouldn't be to difficult to resolve and I can commence with attaching the bulwarks and planking.
  21. Like
    jim_smits reacted to Beef Wellington in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build   
    Bug - nice to have you on board.  I think I'm below the $1 mark 
     
    Colin - thanks for kind words, I'm learning from your wonderful Pandora
     
    Mobbsie - it was Andy that put me onto that.  Anyway, I owe you at least a couple for the 'mouse' help...speaking of..
     
    First Mouse:
     
    I've been procrastinating over my first mouse on the mizzen stay.  Size was estimated from various drawings.  Followed Mobbsie's method and made the mouse out of wood dowel and glued onto the line which was then served.  PVA glue was brushed onto the wood to keep the serving line in place (this photo is the second attempt and you can see the fuzz from attempt 1)

     
    Finished moused end...Lever identifies a pretty small eye vs the instructions which call for a much larger one against the mouse.  The stay was served a little beyond the mouse which per Lever can be done "according to fancy".

     
    Mizzen stay in place...it looks OK to me but as always would welcome feedback if I'm off track before committing to this.

  22. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from aviaamator in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft   
    Got my replacement parts from JoTiKa today. Great service from them as I only spoke to them on Thursday.
     

     
    Next step for the build is to gradually shape the bulwarks. Using a mug and large clips at the moment. Once they are roughly the correct shape I will bend to the bulkheads on the ship.
     

  23. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from Beef Wellington in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build   
    Excellent progress today!
     
    Glued the crosstree assemblies onto the fore and main masts and replaced the shrouds that I had previously removed. Rethreaded all of the shroud lanyards and just need to seize the ends around the shrouds. I'm pretty much back to where I was before the accident. After that it's back to finishing off the ratlines again. Never thought I'd be glad to be back to ratlines....!


  24. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from drtrap in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build   
    Excellent progress today!
     
    Glued the crosstree assemblies onto the fore and main masts and replaced the shrouds that I had previously removed. Rethreaded all of the shroud lanyards and just need to seize the ends around the shrouds. I'm pretty much back to where I was before the accident. After that it's back to finishing off the ratlines again. Never thought I'd be glad to be back to ratlines....!


  25. Like
    jim_smits got a reaction from egkb in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build   
    Excellent progress today!
     
    Glued the crosstree assemblies onto the fore and main masts and replaced the shrouds that I had previously removed. Rethreaded all of the shroud lanyards and just need to seize the ends around the shrouds. I'm pretty much back to where I was before the accident. After that it's back to finishing off the ratlines again. Never thought I'd be glad to be back to ratlines....!


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