yvesvidal

Welcome to the Brig "Fair American" circa 1780 build log,
 
Floyd and Robert, thank you for your supportive comments.
 
Moving ahead with construction, the center keel assembly was prepared.  Key points include:
 
>>> Centerline bulkhead beveled for planking rabbet prior to assembly
>>> Stem, keel, stern post, and rudder built up per period practice
>>> Rudder fitted to center keel assembly
>>> Figure head fitted to center keel assembly
>>> Stem and rudder tapered
>>> Center keel assembly drilled for pedestal mounting holes
>>> Note: pedestals were located to maintain waterline level, a 1/4" mahogany pad will be fitted under forward pedestal to maintain rake
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Continuing with the "Fair American" bulwark test piece.  Key points include:
 
>>> Chain plates were silver soldered brass wire rings formed around deadeyes
>>> Test piece confirms need to add ~3/32" to bulwark height
>>> Deck, bulwark, and hull planking widths will be per test piece
>>> Deck will be planked 1/16" x 3/16" curved planks with hooked scarfs
>>> Paint and color selection confirmed through test piece
 
When starting a new model or applying new modeling techniques, I often use test pieces for evaluation vs the model
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Welcome to the Brig "Fair American" circa 1780 build log,
 
To evaluate construction details, bulwark height, and paint collors I decided to build a test piece of the main deck and bulwark from Station 2 to 4.8 starboard.  Key points include:
 
>>> Test piece includes deck, bulwark, and hull planking Station 2 to 4.8 starboard
>>> Test piece includes (2) cannons and cannon tackle
>>> Deck planking 1/16" x 3/16" (9" planks) with hooked scarfs
>>> Deck, bulwark, and hull planking widths representative of period practice 
>>> Deck scupper 5/64" thin wall brass tubing
>>> Paint is Floquil model railroad acrylic colors
>>> Bulwark height increased ~3/32" to accomodate cannon assemblies
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

14 Gun Brig “Fair American”, Circa 1780
 
The 14 Gun Brig Fair American, circa 1780 is based on Model No. 60 of the Henry Huddleston Rodgers ship model collection at the U.S. Naval Academy Museum, Annapolis, Maryland.  Due to the number of vessels named Fair American that participated in the American Revolution and the amount of conflicting data pertaining to these names, it has not been possible to identify the specific vessel the model represents.  However, the model is representative of many of the small ships used as privateers during the American War of Independence.  The brig Fair American had a length of 68’ 0”, beam of 24’ 0”, depth of 8’ 0”, and tonnage of 130 tons.
 
The model is based on the Model Shipways Fair American kit developed by Erik A. Ronnberg, Jr. and updated by Ben Lankford.  Additional research was conducted using Steel’s Elements of Mastmaking, Sailmaking, and Rigging (1794) and by examining the original Fair American model at the U.S. Naval Academy.  The model is plank on bulkhead construction at 1/4” to the foot scale (1:48) with single planking and scratch built details/fittings.  Paint colors are based on examination of the original Model No. 60 and contemporary practice.
 
Planned enhancements to the Model Shipways kit include: (a) main deck planking will incorporate hooked scarphs outboard; ( quarter deck planking will utilize curved/tapered planks; © cannons/carriages will be from Kingshouse Cannons and the Lumberyard; (d) the stern lantern will be from Caldercraft Scale Ship Models; (e) proportional linen rigging line will be from Bluejacket Ship Crafters and Warner Woods West; and, (f) rigging blocks will be from Warner Woods West.  In order to more fully evaluate these changes, cannon port clearances, bulwark, and hull straking; a Bulwark and Deck at Side mockup was constructed from frame 2 to frame 4.8 starboard.
 
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

More bulkhead fillers...
OK – I know this was probably not necessary but I went ahead and filled the majority of the bulkhead spaces with balsa, making this essentially a solid hull. When I faired and planked one of my “learner” projects, I found fairing the bulkheads was easier and the planking was much smoother on the portions of the hull where I had filled the bulkhead spaces. So...
 
After finishing the fillers and some basic fairing...

 

Thanks !   everyone for the comments and "likes."
 
Moving along with the basic hull construction...
 
Bulkhead fillers...
Cut, fit, and glued the first set of bulkhead filler blocks using 1” x 2” balsa.
 

 

 

 
Thanks for dropping in to take a look!
Your advice, suggestions and questions are always welcome.

Although I have a good bit of model building experience – mostly model railroading – I'm quite new at model ship building. I've always been sort of a “scratch-basher,” very seldom building anything according to the plans and instructions. I learned pretty quick that model ship building doesn't work that way... So, with this project I'm making every effort to stick with the plans and instructions. I'm also using as a practicum several of the Fair American build logs, especially those of Pete, Bob, Gary, Kevin and Ed. Excellent work Gentlemen!   And THANKS! for sharing your work.
 
 
Bulkheads...
Once again I dry-fit all the bulkheads on the center keel assembly to make sure everything still went together OK. I beveled the forward four and the aft four bulkheads, but not quite as much as the plans called for, wanting to be sure I didn't remove too much material before I got ready to begin fairing.
 
Satisfied with the fit of the bulkheads, I clamped and glued each one individually, making sure they were square to and flush with the top of the center keel. After setting overnight, everything looked straight and square.
 
 
Creative Clamping 101...   or maybe some medieval torture device????
 

 

 

THANKS! everyone for the comments and the "likes."
Your critique and comments are always welcome.
 
Fitting and attaching the stem, keel, and stern post...
I cut a new keel piece of proper length from the remnant of the 3/16” basswood sheet. After a little sanding and fitting I attached it, the stem and the stern post to the center keel.
 

 
More to come... 

I recently got the Stern Lantern kit from Chuck's store and will post some photos in the next few days, this will I think make the new Fair American build look much better when I am done.
I got the 1/4" kit as that is the same scale as the ship kit.
Chucks lantern it much larger than the cast metal glob that comes with the model shipways kit but I think it will look just fine as it is a real lantern with windows and not just a chunk of metal.
I am using a bit of small brass tubing for the mounting base and that will hide my LED wires that go in the lamp.
the small LED ( 1.8MM) fit's inside and will look good when hooked up and on, they are yellow and change from almost off to a low level light so it's like an old candle or oil lamp in how it looks.
 
the kit is small and you have to be careful but it's not to hard to make, just take time. for me it's about a week on the calendar but mostly an hour at night so possibly 10 or 12 hours max build time.

Here are the first pictures of the Kit after I have done a bit of un boxing and got the major wood parts out of the laser cut billets.
also I have run the cannons thru a bath in "Blacken IT".   soon I will start the actual build.
 

Danny - Thank you for the pictures - what a shame the others were lost. I will learn from them, I'm sure. I will post a picture of where I am at the moment - please tell me what you think.  I am trying to use as much of Roger's work as I can but I find I need to re-do some.  It is a slow process - mostly because I want to be sure of each step.  Again, thank you so much.  I can see you are a master.  Betty

Thanks for your advice. I went ahead with the masts before I read your message. I think I'm ok because I'm going to wait a day or two to see if the glue works. I drilled a hole in each of the masts and glued them together putting a piece of a round toothpick inside and wrapping brown/black thread around it to hold it tight. If that doesn't work, are there any suggestions? I'm excited and trying to be patient and work slowly. If you look under the front of the small boat, there is a square box that I suppose should have a cover. Would it be a lattice or the same cover as the other hatch? Hope I'm using the right terms. The only thing that seems to be missing from the deck are four groups of cannon balls and some belaying pins. It is a 1/64 model and as close as I can figure the belaying pins are 5 mm.

Attaching photos of the beginning of restoration that was built by my late husband and damaged in storage. I'm a complete novice at this - just becoming familiar with the vocabulary has been an education. I don't know how to tie a neat knot or keep from using too much glue. The photos are of my "workshop" also known as my dining room table, the leftovers Roger left from his ship-building days, parts that are broken that I need to replace, either by carving them myself or finding them online. I have found some, but am not sure of the size or whether or not they are appropriate. So here I go - wish me luck. Betty

Hi again, and thanks for the likes and compliments.  
 
It is going well, I think.  I am trying to create the look of a working ship, rather than one fresh off the building ways.  
 
Now that the foredeck is installed, I turned to the waist.  With the cannon rigged out they can be covered by the gangways.  But first I decided to put in the ropes that go through the hull and belay below the gangways.  It would have been much harder to do them with the gangways in place.  These are the main course tack that goes through the chesstree, and the two sheets that go through the sheaves in the hull.
 
These lines will be some of the larger running rigging ropes and, because of their locations, some of the more visually prominent ones.  They have to be good quality and look like miniature rope.  I could have laid them up on my ropewalk, but I have a few spools of treasured Cuttyhunk Irish linen line (which is no longer available for any price).   The Zane Grey and Natural colors are too white, but a quick run through Minwax wood stain in Ipswitch Pine color makes them look the right shade.
 
1
 
Even examined closely this gives them the look of miniature rope.
 
2
 
I fed the line through the hull openings.  The larger line (C-21) was used for the tacks which belayed to cleats, while the smaller one (C-12) was for the sheets.which belayed to the staghorn kevil.
 
3
 
Although each line is tied off properly, they were all further secured with dilute white glue.  When dry the ends were nipped off and hidden by separate rope coils.  I make these on a simple jig.  A block of soft wood - basswood in this case, but it could be balsa - has several holes drilled in the top face and one or two holes in the front face in the same line.  Removable brass pegs fit into the holes and everything is given several coats of clear finish to keep glue from sticking to it.  Then matching lines are wrapped around the pegs with the ends friction fit into notches in the jig.
 
4
 
As I wrap I randomly make larger and smaller loops and even the occasional figure eight.  When I have the look that I want, the coils are painted with dilute white glue.  Actually, they are first wet down with water, which helps the dilute glue to penetrate the line rather than having it sit on the surface.  When the glue is dry the top peg is removed and the coil peeled up from the jig and trimmed.  Using dilute glue means that the coils are flexible while still holding their shape.
 
5
 
The coils are hung over the belaying points, teased into position where they look like they are hanging with the force of gravity, and secured with white glue.
 
6
 
7
 
In the photos you can see the supporting knees for the gangways.  These were made as before by cutting and shaping a stick and then parting off individual ones.  After locating and installing the forward and aft ones, the gangways were glued in, then the middle two knees for each gangway were installed.  In the photo you can see the ropes that feed through the hull.  I left what I hope is more than enough to reach to the sails, but we will see when the rigging is installed.
 
8
 
The final fittings in the waist were the four ladders from the gun deck up to the gangways.  They were wider at the base than at the top, and were built up as has been detailed before as a stack, then parted off.
 
9
 
After individual ladders were parted off they were cleaned up, stained and installed.
 
10
 
Now that the waist was complete, I turned to the quarterdeck.  The railing that was built up last time was installed, then the whipstaff.  For those not familiar, this is an obsolete steering device that predated the wheel.  It consisted of a rotating fitting called a rowel set into the deck through which a staff passed before it hooked into the end of the tiller arm.  Moving the staff port or starboard turned the rudder.  It was not very efficient, but then most steering was done with the sails during this time.
 
10a
 
A hole was drilled in the deck and a piece of pear cut and sanded to fit.  The fore/aft slot for the rowel was carved into the pear piece, as were indentations for the staff clearance athwartships.  The rowel was turned from maple, and the hole drilled to allow the staff to have a sliding fit.  I set the staff at an offset angle and glued it in place.
 
11
 
You can also see the ladders from the quarterdeck to the poop deck on the roof of the captain's cabin.  These were made up as before, just a little taller than the gangway ladders.  Similarly, the post with sheaves for the lateen halyard was made like the fore and mainyard halyard fittings.  Along the bulwarks are staghorns and pinrails as drawn by Budriot.  I am not completely sold on the pinrails, which do not appear anywhere else on the ship, but they are certainly needed for belaying points.
 
The four 4-pounder cannon were rigged and installed like the 6-pounders on the gun deck.
 
12
 
 Now the deck fittings that were made up almost a year ago could be installed.  These were the companionway house, the officers' bench in front of it, and the two small binnacles.
 
13
 
The ship is now ready for rigging, which will start next month.
 
14
 
Until then, happy Thanksgiving to all and to your families.
 
Dan
 
 
 
 

New set of pictures:
 
Bow - including reinforcement is getting in shape more and more:
 

 

 

 
On the inside the structure for the second row of seats is mounted. For the small view you might have inside I have added some extra vertical planks. The original frames will be removed.
 

 

Thanks.....  That is still the plan.  As soon as I complete the exterior planking with the square tuck and write the first few chapters of the monograph (which will be posted on my site as a free download)   the plans will be released.

Well that is very interesting.    Thank you Sjors.  I have printed it and will stick the printout in the model so when I am ready to restore her I at least have a starting point.
 
Here is the model in question by the way.  I havent had time to give it a thorough researching yet.  That is a big help.  The name on the back is "Margareta" or "St. Margarethen"
 
Chuck
 

 

Hello all, many thanks for warm words and comments!
 
not a big update,I have produced stanchions for the ladderway rails. The images are mostly self explanable, I hope
They are turned on Unimat from 1,5mm brass road. Then finished with steel whool on Dremel Tool. The rings are from 0,3mm brass, the rails from 0,4mm.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Finally installing around ladderway after blackening
 

 

 

 
Continue to work at Q-Deck beams, and how she look now.
 

 

 
Next step will be Capstan.
 
Regards
Alex

M a g n i f i q u e ! . . .

Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 
  
Here you can see another work I've recently done on my Santìsima Trinidad. 
Companionways with rails and other details. Very small details on the quarterdeck, but very much visible. Finally I have decided to paint the rails with a blue paint because the color of the wood used wasn't much omogeneous and I didn't like it. 
I like particularly the ballusters (the columns made with boxwood).
 

 

 

 

Thanks George....No kit but definitely some other parts....see this post in the build log.  But I havent ruled it out entirely.  I Never say never.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8131-hm-cutter-cheerful-1806-148-scale-by-chuck/?p=244654

I was able to shape the fashion pieces today.  They are will be in one piece with the boom crutch added separately later.  The boom crutches wont be added until the cap rail is added way down the road.   For now I just left them extra long so I can file them back to where I want them. You can see in the photo how the bottom fashion piece was bent using heat.....no water or soaking.  The top one is the flat 1/16" thick piece which has not been bent yet.
 
Once these were glued on the model,   the second layer of the wales (two strakes) were added and painted.  I still have to paint them on the other side.  After thats done I will treenail above the wales.  That will be easier to do before I add the fancy molding along the sides of the hull per the plan.
 
Notice how the fashion piece covers the end grain of the planks on the stern transom.  When the stern is all done there shouldnt be any end-grain exposed for any of the planking.  The fashion piece and square tuck protect them from the elements.
 

 

 

 

Hi ffolks...
 
back from vacation I started to continue the work on the boat. It is a double-planked POB-boat, about 13 centimeters Long.
I attached some pics to Show the Progress and the Status at the Moment. Still a lot to do, but it becomes ist shape more and more.
 
Thank you for your Attention
 
Cheerio
 
Max
 

Oooops... didnt work proper...
 
so I have additional pics in a new post
 
Cheerio
 
Max

Cheerio mates and friends and modellers
 
today it is time for a update with some pics. At least I have finished the hull right now. I have to spray some colorless semigloss varnish onto the surface, but this is a work to be done soon. You will probably miss the anchors and the lamps - but both are to be installed to the very end of the build - before the flags
 
The boat and the masts are now to be done.
 
I started this log almost six month ago - and I really spent a lot of time in my shipyard (you can ask the Admiral ). But there was not one single minute of boredom around. I love the ship and I love to improve my techniques and to increase my expierence.
 
So please enjoy the pics and dont hesitate to comment what you see.
 
 
Cheerio
 
Max