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RolandR
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Everything posted by RolandR
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I found (my own and bought pieces), the engraved lines are deep enough to keep the scorched lines even when sanding the pieces. I carefully clean the pieces including with compressed air before I stain them. I like my lines very faint and not stand out from a distance. To me, it is more prototypical.
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About the blue. I would prefer a more … just kidding. I learn 20 years ago, if you provide something for free people will complain. The only customer I have, after all this time is me and I still get a lot of complaining.
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Very nicely done. Since we are in the sam boat, coming from plastic kit in younger years, the Victory cross section is my first wooden ship build as well. I found the same problem. The kit is market as beginner but the available instruction is definitely for advanced modeler. I made some mistakes, I cannot change because of this problem but if it would not be a challenge we would not admire the work of expert model ship makers on this website.
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I did not like the kit provided pump house on the orlop deck. I was checking out the Artesania Latina Victory anatomy version and with that kit you get the louvered pump house. Using the build video, I designed the building although I don't know if it is correct. Unfortunately, I could not find any pictures of the real thing and went wit AL version. Still needs some white paint. I am unsure if the white paint is also inside since AL suggest to paint it light oak. I also need to sand it into shape or add some wood pieces to the outside posts to make up for the curved deck.
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I moved on to the Orlop deck and did not like the provided grates from the kit. The ones by the walls were even brass etched. I lasered a full pieces including the frame. It looks okay but after that I decided to really spent more time on the grates that look more prototypical. I checked out what is available but did not see anything I could not do with my laser myself. It took some time to get the right spacing since I had cut the deck of the orlop already and needed to fit the opening. The higher decks will much easier to make my pieces work. I still have to adjust the height of the smaller frame pieces, so I can sand it in an arch as well. I am not good in geometry and cutting it out and measure is easier than to calculate.
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I am working on the orlop deck but also added the ballast and the barrels before moving on to the next step. The glue/sand mixture is not easy to work with and should be done at this time. I even extended it on both sides and have no problems.
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Most of the work I did, was upgrading the ceiling of the hold with additional wood pieces. There are not many pictures of the part of the ship and I used the website of Henk Ship Models, Victory build to locate the individual pieces. I was not able to verify if this is correct. I also added 4 of my flickering LED lamps.
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Im very interested in you build since I am working on the same model. Thanks for sharing.
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Next on my list are the Victory lantern. I found 3mm flickering LEDs that don't need a circuit and are extremely cheap ($10 for 100 LEDs on Amazon. I used thin black paper that still does not let light through and cut it out on my laser. To prepare the LED, I sanded down the dome in the front and cut off the shoulder? by the pins. The biggest challenge is not to glue the fingers to the LED, while applying the black paper. With one or two exception, they all will be attached to the ceiling beams and I am not worried about the top of the lantern.
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David, I tried that, too. I could not bend it twice the same way. With the two pieces, I can shorten the hook until it fits the others.
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I finished the planks and riders and added the stain. I used Occre Walnut Dye. I used the Walnut instead of Oak since I wanted to get a this part darker. With the cross section, you get the same amount of light, no matter what deck it is. Using the dye, I learnt the first lesson. After decades of plastic models, where glue spots disappear with one or two coats of paint, my almost invisible wood glue smears showed up as lighter patches. On some pictures of Victory's hold, I noticed, that the same hooks, that are used for the guns, are in the hold as well to lift the barrels. A search on this website showed a lot of ways to fabricate those hooks. I tried to build it out of one wire but failed miserably. I also needed the hook bigger diameter than the ring. My hook is now build of 0.6mm for the ring (wrapped around 1mm drill bit) and 0.8mm for the hook. I soldered the 2 pieces together. Right now, I did not get the shape right and it should be 1mm smaller in length but I am able to build theses. It took me without a jig 5 minutes. With only 8 cannons and e few other places I would need hooks, it should be feasible to accomplish.
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I was wondering how a big ship can be hold to together by a few treenails. Thanks everybody
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I added 2 of the riders. I did not like the looks of the individual pieces of plies showing and covered it with a 0.5mm veneer. Sanding the corners made the transition almost invisible.
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Trevor, I did not even notice the board. Who knows what we could find underneath the boards. Thanks
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Maybe I just see something that is not there. Thanks Jan.
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Thanks for the answer. I have only a link to the picture since I don't have the rights to re-publish the photo. https://www.meisterdrucke.ie/fine-art-prints/Unbekannt/935869/Ballast-in-the-Hold-of-HMS-Victory,-2013.html
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While studying pictures on the internet of the hold, I noticed, there are wood dowels randomly places in the deck riders. Where they added later during a restoration project after the ship was decommissioned , or was it done during the build? Thanks
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The first wood pieces of my first wooden ship are glued together and it went not bad. I painted one thin side of the planks with black color and rounded the corners. The paint is barely visible but separates the planks enough for me. I don't know if it is intended by the manufacturer, but the individual strips were not exactly the same thickness, but I like the look for the floor boards.
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Thank you very much for the warm welcome.
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Hello, I have been modeling for 50 years, with Airfix kit, N and HO scale modeling (including scratch build laser cut architecture building) but I am new to wooden ship and I chose the HMS Victory for my first build. Oh, I should have mention, it is the cross section from Artesania Latina. Since I love to research each single detail and scratch build what is not in the kit, I hope, some will find the 1000s blog of the same model still interesting. I already used this website and the different blogs to help me get started. Thanks for accepting my memership.
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