Jim Lad

Let me show the work I did this afternoon, I'm quite happy with it 

 

And so you should be!

John

Nice to see some actual progress, Gil!

John

No pinstripe looks good to me, Michael.

John

I've never used the wood, but the breadfruit are delicious!

John

Looking good, mate!  Buy some extra long screws in case the next one is even bigger.

John

Russ,

Great to see you back at your work bench!

John

Bill,

You can cast in metal or resin.  I've done a little resin casting and found it quite simple, but I've never cast in metal.

John

Gimbals! Yikes!

John

That's looking good, Tom.  A little cleaning of the joints and you've got it licked!

John

Bill,

I think Druxey's method is the way to go.

Make one master for each size and then cast them.  That way you'll still have the masters for future builds, and you'll have done it yourself.

John

Michael,

I'm not sure that the contrasting colours look a bit 'flash' and not like you'd expect on a yacht (especially one that was a pilot cutter).  I think I'd go for either plain wood or painted canvas.

John

Thanks for that, Bruce - that's a good idea for lining up the deadeyes!

John

Ollie,

Whatever that label says, it wouldn't be 'ice chest'!  

I think you might find the teak a bit too grainy for the scale you're working at, but if you could see before buying to assess the grain, it would be fun to use.

John

That's looking first class, Bruce.

Do you fix the upper deadeyes to the piece of white card or plastic to get the spacing right?

John

Ulrich,

Unless you need the additional strength of the wire for some reason, I think I'd be inclined to use an appropriately coloured rope instead.

John

Piet,

looking at the photo, I'd say that the first of your two anchors is closest to the one on the sub.

John

I know its not fully gimbled, perhaps the next one

 

Good grief!  He builds his own working model compass and then apologises because it's not fully gimbled!   

John

And is that you we can just see on the far right of the photo, Michael?

John

Wow!  Love that overall view, Mark!

John

Excellent idea, TJ.

John

Crikey, Andy, I thought it was always like that in Canada!

John

Looks like you're off to a good start on an interesting project.

If this model is going to be radio controlled, how will you access the radio and batteries?

John

Ed,

Found something of interest in Eric Lawson's 'The Egeria - an example of mid-nineteenth century New Brunswick ship construction'.  Lawson carried out an extensive and detailed examination of the hull of the 'Egeria' which now lies in the Falkland Islands and is still used as a storage facility.  'Egeria' was built at Kennebecasis in 1859.

Lawson states that 'Egeria' has iron strapping outside the frames; the plates each being 26 1/2 feet long, 1 1/8 inches thick and either 4 or 6 inches wide.

Perhaps more interestingly, he quotes from Lloyds Register of British and Foreign Shipping (1858 edition, Section 62, Para 3) that ships built in the British North American Colonies must have diagonal iron plates closely inserted either inside or outside the frame.

While Canadian shipbuilding and Lloyds rules might seem a little removed from McKay's yard, the evidence of the surviving ship and the quotation from the 1858 Lloyds rules is firm evidence of iron strapping and of strapping internally.

John

Almost there, Kester!

John

Michael,

Are you sure that this isn't really full size and you're just telling us it's a model?

John