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This is my build of the Lady Anne (named after the wife – bonus points).  If you squint real hard and tilt your head you may recognize the hull as the AL Harvey.  Other than that it has been a whole lot of kit bashing.  This model was given to me by someone who had just glued the bulkheads on and decided this just wasn’t the thing for him.  Over time (as a break from the Druid) I have done a little bit here and a little there.  I planked the hull as a standard model hull to demonstrate to someone else it wasn’t that hard, so there are planks that taper to points and no real attempt to mimic real practice.  I had ‘assumed’ it would be built out of the box and continued in that direction.  Then things started to get fuzzy. 
I knew that Harvey was a fictitious ship and things really started to bug me about how realistic it was.  The deck furnishings especially just seemed haphazard and in some cases wrong.  This is where I stepped out of the box and this fast build took a hard right into kit bashing.  Over the years I had made a point of keeping pictures of ideas on real ships and models of things I really liked and I started to look at what I could add / substitute in this build.  I started perusing books about clippers, especially ‘The American-Built Clipper Ship, 1850-1856’ by Crothers to look at deck arrangements used by Clippers (and believe it or not, I did find those outhouses shown on the Harvey.  I don’t like them, but I found them).
 



 
I cleared the decks (literally), made paper cutouts of potential deck furniture, and spent a lot of time pondering the imponderables.  A big decision was to rig her as the Pride of Baltimore II was rigged, a true Baltimore Clipper.  This defined the needed pinrails and deck tie downs required (as well as block counts which were a LOT more than the kit supplied).  I moved the pumps aft to where they could actually do some good.  The forward windlass was replaced with a windlass actually capable of bringing in an anchor.  The capstan was moved to a position where it could actually be used, a below deck access was added and on, and on, and on.  The last addition I added are cavels to allow easier docking.  To retain its original heritage I created a 1:48th scale workman that I named sailor Harvey to verify heights as I proceeded.
 



 
The deck currently has a configuration that I am happy with.  The last original piece is the aft deckhouse and it just seems out of proportion for sailor Harvey to navigate through so that will probably be scrapped and an alternate built in its place.  Oh, I retained the cannons since my son insists that cannons are cool and I couldn’t possibly take them off.  I did, however, modify their locations, retain only six (continental breeched) and will probably have two of those stowed parallel to the bulkhead.
 


 
As time allows I will post past pictures of the process I used to build various pieces and the rationale used for including them (which may just be I liked the look).  I am really trying to focus on the Druid and get’r done, but this ship will be warming up.  As usual, any comments are welcome.
 

 
Mark

Some progress on the little trawler from Holland.
 
I made some antenna's, a compass, a searchlight and some other bits and pieces.
It's hard to build an acurate model. Drawings don't show enough detaills and the photo's are made from to far sitance or are bad quality. I have to use lot's of photo's (also from other ships), drawing, the internet and the help from an old sailorman to make the parts but its very rewarding to do.
 
Now I will start working with a very strange material. Its has a brown collour, has a smell, splinters when you break it, and is not very easy to bend. I think it's a high tech new material from Nasa's laborotery's. Do you know the name? Very strange.... It makes me sneeze when I sand it


























 

The last few days I worked on the upperstructure of the ship and the bridge. I used only polystyrene and glue. I am using lesser CA-glue these day but use super thin ps-glue. It glues fast and strong but you have the possibility to position the pieces you want to glue.
 
Pictures say more than words.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello everyone,
 
I managed to do some work on the KW49 Antje and I came some further with her. What was in the begining just a piece of raw plastic is now becoming more and more a ship. I really like working on here. I need to figure out a lot of things every time I have to build something, but its fun.
All the half round is added, the hole for the anchor is made. I adde al the visible ribs to the deck and I made the front deck and under it some hatches and a winch.
Now I started working on the upper structure and the bridge.
 
Regards, Kees

Nice work.
 
I find it funny that when building a wooden kit, I do my utmost to hide the planking when painted - so it almost looks as smooth as plastic. But plastic kit manufacturers do their utmost to show the planking, to make the surface look like wood!

Some background: I started this build a year and two months ago. I did some modeling when I was a kid, but discovered other joys of life when I reached puberty 🙂 In the meantime I settled down and decided to take it up again (I'm 30 years old).

I decided to go for a challenge and went for the Heller Victory. I wanted to try all the new and exciting tools & techniques I did not have the money for when I was a kid. I started out using acrylics by brush, but invested in a good compressor and airbrush a couple of months ago. Too bad I did not have this at the start of my build! The finish is so much nicer!

The goal is not to make a true to life representation of the actual ship, but a nice looking model in warm colours with lot's of detail that looks good under glass in the living room.

Enough background, here are the pictures:



You can clearly see half of the hull bee lines haven't received the sepia wash yet I use to give it more depth and a warmer tone.





I also need to rework the figurehead a little bit. The white crown is a bit to big and the white horse needs some TLC as well. Otherwise, I'm very happy with the look of the ship!



I used some styrene sheet to make the gun port thicker. I like that look even though it's out of scale.



After a lot of trial and error, I finally settled on a style of gun carriage lashing. I used 2mm single blocks and Morope rigging chords. The most difficult part was making the two holes in the top blocks. I ruined quite a lot of blocks just to get these guns finished 🙂 Will need to order lot's more!

I was not completely happy with my decks. The colour was a bit to pale, it missed some 'life', and some parts were damaged a bit. So, in a moment of temporary insanity, I went out and got a second Heller Victory kit. Maybe a bit drastic, but now I have spare parts for everything and this allows me to experiment a bit more.

I tore out the old deck. This meant I also had to take out the four guns I tackled already, unfortunately. I redid the decks using the same technique, but this time I added two coats of MIG brown filter. This added a nice weathered wood tone. I'm very happy with the result, but judge for yourselves (the foto does not do it justice, though):



The stanchions were made using 2mm eyelets and 0.1mm Morope rigging chord.

As we say in the Army, no plan survives first contact and it was proven true once again.
  After rubber cementing the futtock templates to the Basswood sheet (grain oriented correctly) I cut each one out with about a 1/16" buffer, which was sanded to shape on the drum sander.  For the joining edges I used my sled on the table saw for precise angles (match the cuts).  Guaranteed straight and perfect 90 degrees.  I could shave off a 1/64th safely using this method.     The first layer was finalized (paper template removed) and glued together piece by piece over a copy of the frame (with wax paper). Then I finished each piece of the second layer and added each one separately to the existing finished layer.  I had thought of making the second layer independently and then joining both whole layers together but the piece by piece looked to be the better and more accurate solution.   In the following pic I was using the second layer pieces as clamp aids for the first layer.     After everything dried I did a gentle sanding by hand of all the surfaces.     I finished frame 19 first (second one in) since it will be totally covered up.  After I am confident in my technique I can then do the exposed frames of 18 and 27 (one side exposed each).  Next up is frame 26 so I can also start working on the base jig and get that trued up.  With everything going on, hope to have the skeleton complete and setup during Christmas break.   Very happy with this approach.  More time than with the original Druid but a lot less wood.   Mark

Now to get down to business - the frames.  I created four copies of each of the frame patterns.  Two of the copies were allocated to creating the patterns for the two layers of each frame.  I intend to keep a millimeter or so of extra wood on either side of each piece.
 

 
Once the pieces are rough cut to their dimensions I will cut the join edges using my sled on the Byrnes saw.  Then the frames will be glued together individually over the third plan (with wax paper).  Once each half is complete, the fourth plan will be glued onto the resultant frame before final shaping.
 
I will super detail the exposed frame face of each side of the cross section, but will leave the rest as shown.  With full planking the others will not be seen.
 
More pics to follow showing that.  You can see I am still using the baseboard (built upside down).  Hope to have the first frame together this weekend.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

First thing I wanted to do was understand the scale of what I was attempting.  I grabbed some tracing paper and drew all the pieces in the correct place.  Not too surprised, but this comes in at 28" tall (sans base).  The admiral's eyes bugged out a little at the plan but it is full speed away (or full speed as my time allows).
 

 
This is just a planning tool, it wasn't drawn absolutely accurately for all of the details.  I am feeling pretty pumped for building this.  Lots of new skills to learn and do.  I am also leaning towards adding actual people into the scene.  The 1/48 scale Hasegawa aircraft ground crew shows promise with some modifications.  It will be neat to have a couple of people swinging in their hammocks on the berth deck, haven't seen that too often.
 
Stay building my friends,
Mark

As the planning starts, so does the log.  With my admiralty hull finally back home after a month road trip around town I am more convinced than ever that a cross section is needed.  With a variety of questions being consistently asked about the layout of the internals and how did this or that happen, the cross section would be perfect.
 

 
Being a cross section it will fit on the mantle but also bring home the resultant size of the full ship with the full main mast being present.
 
The first question is where to define the cut lines.  After looking at the plans I am looking at the following layout (frames 18-27):
 

 
Being a Hahn plan, there are no knees defined (not seen at all in the full model).  In this case they will be seen so I will add those in.  I am a little lucky in that this is an American built cargo ship purchased and converted by the British.  So......I do not necessarily have to follow exact British standards of the time.  I am pretty sure I will put in at least one futtock rider.
 
I am thinking of fully planking the outer hull inside and out both sides, but then one half of the inner hull decks will be left with all floor beams exposed.  The fully deck planked side will be fit out with ballast, water and food casks, cannon (kids happy about that) with associated tools and probably a hammock or two.
 
The rigging will be that which is possible.  I am thinking about having sails (lower one furled).  I have picked up the masting plans for the Brilliant / Druid in the possession of the Smithsonian.  That is a big help.  Lots of scratching of the head on tie down positions with the added quarterdeck extension.
 
Now to start on the frames.  I will not use the short cut frames jig provided but will go with more of wood saving futtock by futtock method (modified) - still using the inverted building stand / jig.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

Another little progress

 

 

 

 

 

 

before continuing with the construction of the interior I thought it would be better to complete the planking of the hull of the starboard side: the side of the left will leave in carpentry.
I drew with a pencil the locations of the strakes

 

 

 
 
I started the laying of the first strips

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

A little progress:

 

 

 

While working on different items as I go along, I found some very nice steering wheels from RBmodels.
 
Brass they are and fit the bill for my build.


Come in kit form but fit together like a glove.




Also in the pursuit of realism moved to the upper works which have brass inserts, these were not square, so some plastic filler was ness.




After removing struts and sanding/replacing struts the shape was better after some coats of paint .


At the same time started on the partitions that I felt the detail was not enuff.
Added Dafi's etch window frames at this time.



Paint used to complete these.

Sorry about the clutter in the last picture.
More soon me thinks.

foxy
 

Moving on from the last pictures of the mast's, now I can test fit as I go along.

Then its back to the lower deck.

Hanging knees was the next thing, using coffee sticks I acquired from my visit to California last year.

After painting white, fixed with PVA to existing wood sides and painted all white.




Both sides done, its on to decking out this deck.




More soon me thinks.

Foxy

 

So now to the masts.

Added bras rod to the centre's of fore/main and mizzen masts.
Not really ness, but for strength I went ahead and did this.


Next it was the rings around masts, they were not sharp enuff I thought, so sanded and replaced with slaters plastic strips.



These were painted black Using admiralty Paints(water based).





Will add more later for other decks as I go along.

Foxy

Arghhhhhhhh I made a major blunder! 
 

 
When I test fit the fo'c'sle, I saw that the deck ends well ahead of bulkhead F. Given that bulkhead F is tapered with respect to bulkhead E, you would THINK that the planks ahead should be curved. So I indeed curved my planks ahead of bulkhead F, following the line of the main deck. As you can see from my diagram, the green line I have added shows my planks curving underneath where the deck is supposed to end. 
 
A quick check of the plans confirmed that I had indeed made a serious error. Now I faced a choice of terminating the deck early, or trying to bulk up the bow planking to accommodate the fo'c'sle deck. 
 
I chose to do the latter. Which meant that I faced an additional problem of how to fair the planks in without distorting the shape of the bow too much. I pored over pictures of the completed ship, which at least assured me that mistakes here would be covered by the beakhead rails. I also studied closely other build logs on MSW for help. So far nobody has mentioned this issue. 
 
Oh well. 
 

 
I started bulking up the planks by laying strips of second planking material.
 

 
Once done, I trimmed it back. 
 

 
I think it looks OK!

First, a sincere thanks to John (Neptune) and Ian Major (private communication) for pointing out my mistake. I believe the Union Jack is now flying right side up.
 

 
David (Shipyard Sid), You are extremely kind in your remarks. I keep adding photos which seems like I am squeezing a lot of mileage from the build. However, I've noticed that most of the photos deal with details, with little overview. (To follow).
 
Nick, Many thanks. As for guidance, I've picked up as much or more than I've added on this great website.
 
.Monkeyman, Thank you so much. Don't worry, we all started with little experience.  At 81, I've picked up a few techniques and tricks...........Now if I can just remember them.  By the way I am enjoying your journey with the Titanic's lifeboat.
 
Dave, The champagne is already chilled. Looking forward to seeing you, but don't forget to bring your Bluenose.
 
Daniel, Haven't dropped it yet, But..............................
 
Popeye, The news reports on your weather is truly sobering. If I told you Seattle has been sunny with temperatures topping 60 degrees, you'd never believe me. Thanks very much for your kind comments. It's nice to have a friend in every port. A wee dram would be lovely, but I'll call first.
Cheers, Gil

The following are a few photos with an overview of the model. A few clips attached to lines and a flag to be redone.  Vern from our Puget Sound Ship Modelers made available a beautiful walnut board with exquisite grain markings for a base. Unfortunately, it is a few inches too short so the search goes on.
 
The ship still on it's lazy Susan.
 

Not a huge amount of progress, but working away on the quarterdeck furnishings.  Carronades installed and rigged, poop deck ladders, railing and buckets installed (bucket handles not rigged yet), cannons under the poop ladders installed and rigged. Touch up painting needed!  I keep going to everyone's logs for instruction and inspiration - Thank you!
 
Patrick

I wasn't happy with the way my coppering was looking after wear and tear.  When I first finished the copper I polished it up then hit it with two coats of satin finish clear lacquer.  But the color looked uneven, dirty in places, some discoloration from glue in others.  So today I turned to ship over, masked and taped above the water line and sprayed on two fine coats of copper paint.  I don't know if anyone else has done this, but I'm happy with the result.  All the plates retained their edges and the rivets are clearly visible, and the color is consistent and clean.
 
Patrick

Hi all and many thanks for your comments!
 
some photos of manufacturing of deck planks with caulking. The first photo shows the complete process. The paper was glued to one surface of the prepared piece of wood, then the piece are cut in to planks. I used the Proxxon steel saw blade 50 x 0,5mm (photo 2). It gives very clean cut and does not need for sanding before gluing.
 



(note an additional piece for fence is that the plank would not be clamped)

 
The planking of deck:
 







 
the work go on and the deck is nearly completted. The ridding bits and anchor bitts are only dry placed without a glue, and anchor cable is still for photo shooting.







 
The deck of Captain's cabin is done, the planking of after part of hull is completed and lower counter rail also on place.
 





 
Added some photos:
 



 
To be continued.
 
Alexander

Chart house shown on the hull to check camber of the mating surface.  (This photo shown earlier in the build).
 
Cheers,
Tim
 
 

 
 

Well, I promised "better" on the main ratlines and I hope I've kept that promise. Practice may not make perfect, but it does make better. I've always found that avoiding distortion of the shrouds is the hardest part of doing ratlines, but it gets easier as you get into the rythym. It's a shame that you only get to do these every couple of years or so -- it takes a while to remember what you learned in the previous efforts.   
 
With that overly long introduction, I've now finished the lower main ratlines. Now, on to the mizzen.
 
Bob
 
 

Thanks so much John for the kind words.
 
The lower ratlines are now completed, as I've done the mizzen. There will still be ratlines to be done on the topmast shrouds, of course, but there is a lot to be done before getting to them. The next items of work include making the topmasts, which I've already started, adding various blocks to the mastheads, and the crowsfeet, which I actually dread more than the ratlines.
 
Bob