
gieb8688
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gieb8688 reacted to Robert29 in HMS Victory 1805 by Robert29 - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1:72
Thank you Allan,
Yes, I will be adding the anchor lift davit on the launch. I have it ready but I haven't glued it in place, in the below photo it is only dry fitted. I will also be placing the respective anchors (supplied in brass with the kit) on each boat. As a matter of fact even the windlass, I haven't glued in place yet. The anchors I still have to blacken and since I also intend to add a few more items (such as barrels) I thought better not glue anything for the moment.
If 'the strips on the launch hull' you are referring to the hull planks overlapping each other (clinker type planking), I am not sure if any of the boats were constructed with this type of planking. I just went along as indicated on the kit manual. To be honest I tried to look for details of the boats but found very little.
As for the ears, I haven't seen them on any HMS Victory boat images I managed to find on the internet.
At this point there might be some details which I could have added, but it is too late to add now. But if you have any details of the boats of which I am still in time to add and within my capability I would be much obliged if you can furnish me with them.
Thanks again.
Robert
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gieb8688 reacted to Robert29 in HMS Victory 1805 by Robert29 - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1:72
More work on the boats. I finished the outside painting. In the kit manual it indicates to paint the outside hull of the boats Dull White. Apparently, Admiralty Paints do no do the 'dull white' anymore, I used Matt White. For the golden bands I used the modelling masking tape as suggested on the manual itself. I cut strips the required width, painted them gold, secured them in place with their own backing glue, then applied clear varnish all over the washstrake and tape to keep it secured in place. Just for the Pinnace I used styrene strips.
The Launch
The Barge.
The Pinnace.
The Cutter.
I still have to paint the oars and some more details, but I might do that later on, when I decide which boats I will fit on deck and which once I will be hanging on the davits. I really need to go hands on, on the ship's rigging. It is quite a challenge for me as I never did rigging of this level. I only did much easier rigging on two much smaller boats.
Robert
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gieb8688 reacted to mbp521 in USS Cairo 1862 by MPB521 – FINISHED - Scale 1:48 - American Civil War Ironclad - First Scratch Build
Hello everyone,
Time again for another update.
This time around I finished getting the aft 32-pound smoothbore in place and rigged. Here are a few shots of it going in
Breech rope being seized..
Completed breech rope.
Training rigging going in.
And this cannon completed. I haven't been keeping track of the hours that I have spent on this build, but I do know that between the two aft cannons it took more than three hours to complete. These are some seriously tight quarters to get the hooks mounted to the eyebolts and the ropes drawn up tight. This task of the build has definitely swayed me from ever wanting to do a ship in the bottle build. Unfortunately, for all the work put into these, very little of it will be seen
One of the smaller projects on this post was the completion of the paddle wheel crank. This was another instance of where I didn't take very many pictures of it being built. I have a bad habit of getting engrossed in these small pieces that I only think of taking pictures of them when they are done. Anyhow, here is the basic construction of the crank. Just a small piece of wood with two flat washers for the hubs. Once these were built up, they were painted black and installed.
Next up were the exterior ladders. After reviewing all of the pictures of Cairo's sister ships, from what I can tell, she was the only one that just had ladders on the forward and aft casemates. All of the pictures of the other boats in the City Class show ladders mounted on the side casemates as well. Not sure if this was a later addition to the others or what, but since there is only one known picture of the Cairo in existence and there is not a ladder shown on the port side, it makes it very difficult to determine if the starboard side had one either. In studying the HSR drawings, there is also no indication of side ladders either, so I went with my best judgement and did not place any on the sides. And at the risk of sounding lazy, I am somewhat relieved I wasn't able to see any other ladders, because these are one feature of boat building that is not at the top of my fun list. This is only because they are so tedious and fragile, and I know it's just me, but I usually have a hard time getting all of the rungs lined up evenly. These were not as difficult as some of the smaller ones, but they are still ladders.
Ladders glued together.
Painted up
Aft ladders in place.
Forward ladder in place.
and since I forgot to take a picture of the completed bollards in my last post, here is one with the forward ladder as well.
Once the ladders were placed it was time to move on to more interesting features that will most likely not be seen, but I wanted to add just because it is a feature that I have never built on a model before. The "Head". I didn't want to devote a whole lot of time on them since they will be mostly hidden anyway, so I kept these structures simple. In reading up on the history of these boats, somehow they were able to channel the water off the paddle wheel to "flush" the heads and provide water for the showers. I did do some digging on this as well and was not able to find anything on it, so I decided to leave those details out.
Next up, I started working on the roof beams. I needed to get some of these in place so that I could start placing the cannon implements.
Once a few of the beams were in place I started on the rack for the implements. These were just made with some 20ga wire bent to shape.
Holes drilled into the beams.
Racks in place.
...and implements installed.
There sure was not a lot of wiggle room to work around these aft cannons, it sometimes makes me wonder how often these aft guns were used. I'm guessing that the only time they would have been fired would have been during training exercises or when the enemy was crossing her stern or if the boat was in retreat and she was just protecting her six.
Once the racks were in place, I continued on with more of the roof beams.
Another small project that I completed were the interior hawse pipes. This was another detail that there is very little info on, and one that I added because I wasn't real sure where the anchor chain was stored. We do know that these boats had anchors because there is part of one that was destroyed when Cairo was torpedoed in the museum and there are hawse pipes mounted in the forward casemates. So I went with logic, and the limited knowledge that I have about anchor stowage and decided that if the capstan was used to haul the anchor, then the chain would have to be stored somewhere. So I figured that once they hauled the anchor in, the chain would be directed to the hold to keep it out of the way of the limited deck space available and free up space for the gun crews to move around without tripping over it. In my mind it all makes sense, and I couldn't find any info that would disprove my theory. So I ran with it.
To continue with my thoughts on this, I figured the operation would work somewhat like this: the anchors would be weighed pretty much like any normal anchor. It would be pushed overboard and the chain let out until it hit bottom. The Western rivers were not known for their massive depths, and this was before they started dredging the river channels, so it most likely didn't require a lot of chain before the anchors settled into the mud. Once the crew was ready to get underway, heavy ropes with hooks were attached to the chain either at the bow, or just inside the forward casemate, the ropes were then wrapped around the capstan and the anchor hauled up. As the chain was coming up, the crew would direct it down the interior hawsers to it's storage locker until it was needed again. I may be way off base on this operation, but it sure sounds good on paper. If anyone has a better thought on this or actually knows how this was done, please share. The curiosity is killing me, and the info on this is very limited.
So here are the holes drilled in the deck for the hawse pipes.
and the hawse pipes installed.
Next was the installation of the hog chain braces. Not a great bit of detail here. More to come on these later.
Then it was on to getting this baby armed. I took a different approach to installing the port and starboard gun carriages since they were a little easier to access. The port carriages were easier due to the viewport opening in the side, which gave me access to the eyebolts through the casemate. I placed all of the carriages in their respective gun ports and then rigged them without the guns attached. Without the guns in the way I was able to get to the eyebolts better. However, it still took about an hour per carriage to rig up.
After the rigging was completed, I went ahead and mounted the lower port doors. I wanted to get an Idea of what they were going to look like and how much the white interior paint was going to contrast with the black outer paint. It does stand out, but I think it looks alright. I studied the old pictures of the other City Class boats, but it is hard to tell in a black and white photo if these doors were painted white on the inside or if it is the sun reflecting off the black paint. In some instances, some of the boats look like the doors were painted black on the inside at one point.
All lower port doors installed. I am going to hold off on installing the cannons and top doors for as long as I can. I don't want to risk snagging them and having to redo them while I work on the other features.
I completed the rigging on all of the port carriages and moved over to the starboard side.
This is where I am currently at so that will do it for this update. I am going to finish up on the rigging for the starboard carriages and get the lower port doors installed then work on installing and rigging the forward guns. Once these are completed I will install some gun deck details like the cannon ball crates, barrels and crew lockers.
Until next time, thank you all for stopping by, liking and the kind comments.
Please stay safe and healthy.
-Brian
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gieb8688 reacted to mbp521 in USS Cairo 1862 by MPB521 – FINISHED - Scale 1:48 - American Civil War Ironclad - First Scratch Build
Hello again everyone,
Back with another update, this time with more to report.
Before I start though, I wanted to show a couple of acquisitions I recently purchased. First is a little reading material I found "What Finer Tradition: The Memoirs of Thomas O. Selfridge, Jr., Rear Admiral U.S.N". Thomas Selfridge Jr. was Captain of the Cairo at the time of her sinking. Along with the book I have an autograph of Rear Admiral Thomas O. Selfridge Jr. himself.
A big thank you Keith Black for sending me the info for the autograph, this will make a nice addition to incorporate into the display when I am finished.
Now on to my accomplishments since the last update.
First up was work on more of the steam plumbing. Before I was able to complete the plumbing, there were a couple of things that needed to be done first. Since the some of the steam exhaust plumbing is attached to the smokestacks I was going to have to install the boiler. But before I could do that I had to verify all the wiring was good and the lights worked since the wiring was all under the boiler assembly.
Testing out the lighting.
...and everything seems to work. And yes the pictures are a little out of order, since I forgot to take the pictures of the lighting before the plumbing was done.
So starting the plumbing, I needed the four exhaust pipes, two of which ran from each of the pre-heaters to the smokestacks and out into the wheel house.
This part was one of those projects where I felt like I painted myself into a corner, since there were several walls that needed to be in place before running the pipes, and also needed to be in place to line up the holes. For the piping, I again used styrene rods. This material is so easy to work with and coupled with the heat shrink rings, gives the perfect illusion of pipefittings.
Rearward exhaust pipes.
Forward running pipes going in. I worked out a solution to be able to run the plumbing through the bulkheads without having to build all of the interior walls. I used a couple of short pieces of brass tubing to form a coupling between the boiler room bulkhead and the engine room bulkhead. This allowed me to insert one short piece from the pre-heaters to the couplers and the longer piece can go the length of the boilers to the smokestacks. The coupler also functions as a heat shield against the timber walls.
Since none of this plumbing survived the recovery, this was another build that I used my best judgment on and some builders liberties. I used the drawings that the guys building the St. Louis used as my design (I didn't post that picture here since the picture belongs to their build log but if you would like to take look at it it, the drawing can be found at the following link, post #21).
Before the couplers were added. I wasn't able to make the multiple bends in the styrene rods and get everything lined up properly.
Couplers added.
All painted and in place.
Next up was finishing up on the bollards. These have been in place for a while, but it was time to get them finished up and painted. I used some of the aluminum foil tape to make caps for the timbers to prevent them from prematurely rotting from water penetrating the exposed end grain.
First cap in place.
All timbers capped.
Painted up.
As of this posting, I realized that I didn't take a picture of the finished bollards in place. I'll see if I can remember to take some and post them in the next update.
Next up was the placement of the inside gunwales (I'm guessing that is the proper term for them on this type of boat) along with the eyebolts for the cannon rigging.
Waterways added to the bottom.
Port and Starboard sides in place, painted and varnished.
Next on the list was the construction of the Pittman arms. Very little of these will be seen, but I wanted to put some detail in them without going overboard.
Finally for this update, was the rigging of the first cannon. I started with the aft cannons, the 30 pound Parrot Rifle and 32 pound Smooth Bore due to their placement and accessibility. These need to be installed before I can complete the Captains quarters due to the confined space available. As it is, these were a royal pain to get the outboard rigging in place. The first cannon I completed was the 30 pound Parrot Rifle.
I started the rigging in my casemate mockup to get the correct lengths on the ropes.
Breech ropes in place.
Ends seized.
Photoetched hooks for the blocks and running rigging.
Forward assist ropes in place.
Now the fun part, placing them in their ports.
Rear assist rigging in place.
One final picture, I am not sure what happened here, but I can promise you the cannon is not bent. I guess it is all in the lighting, but I just wanted to get a view of the cannon in it's port.
If I may, I have to give plug to Chuck over at Syren Ship Model Company for the outstanding quality ropes, hooks and blocks I used for the cannon rigging. He doesn't fool around on getting them shipped to you either. From ordering to my mailbox was about three days. Thanks Chuck!
That is all I have for now. I am going to finish up on the 32 pound smooth bore, more of the internal walls, and the crank arms for the next update.
Thank you all for stopping by and the kind comments and likes.
Until next time, please stay safe and well.
-Brian
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gieb8688 reacted to mbp521 in USS Cairo 1862 by MPB521 – FINISHED - Scale 1:48 - American Civil War Ironclad - First Scratch Build
Mark,
As requested, here are a few from Port and Starboard sides. I assumed you were wanting a clearer or overall picture of the cutaway, but I took pictures of both sides just in case.
I very much appreciate the input.
-Brian
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gieb8688 reacted to mbp521 in USS Cairo 1862 by MPB521 – FINISHED - Scale 1:48 - American Civil War Ironclad - First Scratch Build
Hello everyone,
Looking for an opinion here. I painted up the cutaway edge with the reddish-brown I used for the hull. I’m liking the color and think it provides a nice separation from the black paint and the natural wood color of the frames. I just thought I’d throw this out there to see what everyone else’s thought.
Please feel free to chime in, I always welcome constructive criticism.
-Brian
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gieb8688 reacted to mbp521 in USS Cairo 1862 by MPB521 – FINISHED - Scale 1:48 - American Civil War Ironclad - First Scratch Build
Hello again Everyone,
I know it has been a while since my last update. Progress has slowed to a crawl lately with other projects taking priority while I can get to them. Lots of physical labor involved, and by the time I am done for the day I am just wore out and just want to kick back in the recliner and relax with a cold beverage. Temps are starting to get a LOT warmer here so I may spend some of the hotter parts of the day at the workbench instead of baking in the Texas sun.
So with my lame excuses out of the way, I did get a little work done this past week, and I do mean a little.
I painted up one of my cannons and assembled it to the carriage. Haven't got the rigging done on it yet, I'm still sorting out how to do that. It's hard to find a good layout of how these were setup. I thought of just using the standard cannon ring for all 19th century American war ships, but the thought occurred to me that the cannon ports were also used as access to load stores and munitions, so the cannons would have most likely been pulled out and turned sideways to make room for the supplies being loaded. So the more I pondered it, the more frustrated I got on trying to figure it out and finally just set them aside for now.
Anyway, here is the 30lb Parrot Rifle in its carriage.
Next up I decided that she finally needed a coat of paint. I'm almost to the point that I'm ready to start installing the cannon port doors, and rather than go through the trouble of painting twice I decided to go ahead and get the casemates painted up so I can then place the painted doors and make minor touch ups as needed. I think that I am going to go with all port doors in the open position. This will allow for somewhat easier viewing of the inside details, not to mention it will save me from having to get the cannons all perfectly centered on the pierced hole with them closed.
First coat of black going on the bow casemates.
Port first coat.
Bow after three coats of black and three coats of satin clear. I did a little texturing with the back paint on the armor plating to give it a more "wrought iron" look and feel. I thought it came out looking pretty good.
Painted port side. I am still debating with myself as to whether or not I want to paint the inside edges of the viewing port red to symbolize the cutaway. I see this on a lot of cutaway sections and I like it, even the guys working on the St. Louis are doing it, I just don't know if the red will stick out too much and detract from the rest of the model. I still haven't made the decision yet, but there's still plenty of time.
Painted stern
And finally the overall boat painted and all masking removed. It's amazing what a few coats of paint can do to the look. It's really starting to look like an Ironclad.
That all for now. Thanks for sticking with me on the slow progress. Hopefully I can get more done in the coming weeks.
Until next time, I appreciate all the great comments and likes.
-Brian
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gieb8688 reacted to reklein in USS Missouri by reklein - Sterling - 1/192 Scale
Yesterday I built props struts from laminated styrene. A little wonky but it'll do. Truly scratch built. Next the props and shafts. All from styrene. Stay tuned.
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gieb8688 reacted to Valeriy V in AMAPÁ 1907 by Ras Ambrioso - FINISHED - scale 1:64 - Brazilian Customs Cruiser
Ras, it would be easier for you to work if you first put the planking rail and only then put the blank.
I admire your tenacity!
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gieb8688 reacted to Ras Ambrioso in AMAPÁ 1907 by Ras Ambrioso - FINISHED - scale 1:64 - Brazilian Customs Cruiser
I have been a little under the weather these last few days and have been unable to work on my favorite project. However, I had some pictures of my progress after following Valeriy's advise about the Titebond.
This shows the beginning of the filling of the bow and stern sections
And here I added a vertical reinforcement to each frame just in case.
I have received the material (cherry) to make the planking strakes and hope to get started next Monday.
I had a lot of trouble gluing the paper to the wood. I used Loctite and a 3M sprays and they dried up in a couple of days. My last attempt was made with Elmer's contact cement and this seem to be holding up OK.
I would like to hear you opinions and preferences for this work of permanently gluing paper to wood.
I also want to welcome my new friend, Ton Kittichart from Thailand, who is planning to build Amapá's Thai cruiser the Suriya Monthon.
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gieb8688 reacted to Valeriy V in AMAPÁ 1907 by Ras Ambrioso - FINISHED - scale 1:64 - Brazilian Customs Cruiser
Frames can be glued without the use of aluminum corners. To do this, I use wood glue Titebond, it dries quickly and after 5 minutes you can glue the next part.
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gieb8688 reacted to Ras Ambrioso in AMAPÁ 1907 by Ras Ambrioso - FINISHED - scale 1:64 - Brazilian Customs Cruiser
A little progress. Finished matching the two half-keels and secured them to my work base. Dry-fitted some of the frames using the angle gadgets I got from Micromark. I only got 8 pieces in the package and I need 22. So I went shopping for an aluminum angle and some push pin and, voila, I got my 24s. I will use these dry fitted frames to determine my planking belts and, using battens, mark the needed bevelinf of the frames.
My angles and the purchased ones.
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gieb8688 reacted to Ras Ambrioso in AMAPÁ 1907 by Ras Ambrioso - FINISHED - scale 1:64 - Brazilian Customs Cruiser
Now for the news. Amapá's keel, or shall I say half keels, had been laid after the "fifie" left the dry dock for commissioning. The half keels were attached to a building board and the bow section was glued in place. The roughly cut frames were dry fitted to the working board. The half keels still need to be trimmed. To do this, I will clamp the two sides together with screws using the board's attachment points as setting holes. This will make the two half keels identical. That way, when the frames are all in place, all I need to do is to remove the half frames off the board and join them together. The result is a fairly thick keel but, who is watching? Following the advise from Toni in other posts I intend to do the fairing and the planking while the half keels are fastened to the board.
I have been researching the 1/64 scale Hotchkiss QF firing gun mounted on the forward deck of Amapá. Since I also like to build miniature guns, I plan a little side project to build a 1/24 scale model of this gun under a separate post. And yes, I intent to post the build in the non-ship category if it is alright with the administration. This will be a metal model with a lot of lathe and milling machine work.
Thanks for following.
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gieb8688 reacted to Valeriy V in AMAPÁ 1907 by Ras Ambrioso - FINISHED - scale 1:64 - Brazilian Customs Cruiser
The thickness of the fiberglass is within 0.1-0.12 mm, the cell is approximately 0.6-0.8 mm.
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gieb8688 reacted to Ras Ambrioso in AMAPÁ 1907 by Ras Ambrioso - FINISHED - scale 1:64 - Brazilian Customs Cruiser
With my wife out of the country I have been using our dining table as a drafting board. She is coming home tonight and I must clear this mess before she comes. I have been busy working on both of my builds. Doing a little bit of detailing and touch up on the Fifie and starting the work on Amapá.
Today I started the to fabricate the ship's frame. As I stated before, I intend to build the hull in two halves. I tried several glues to attach the drawing templates to the wood. After using the Elmers spray adhesive I had a disaster as the glue came on too thick. I finally decided to use regular Elmer's school glue that is a paste and will be removable from the wood after cutting.
The keel section is 26" inches long and the available wood was only 24". I split the keel section by splitting the nose at station 9. I intend to use balsa fillers in the bow and in stern sections so this split may not be a problem.
This is the finished board ready for the saw.
This was done in our kitchen counter. Notice the oil tablecloth I use to keep anything messing up our counter. The Admiral will be happy ,LOL.
Thanks for the support
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gieb8688 reacted to yvesvidal in Flower-Class Corvette by Yves Vidal - FINISHED - 1/48 - Bensworx Virtual Kit - 3D printed
The plain vanilla kit does not present two of the main features of HMCS Snowberry: the raft supports. The kit offers "Raft support" but they do not match the way Snowberry was rigged. I have had to "hand made" these, which comes as a welcome contrast after printing pretty much all the parts needed.
In the picture below, you can see the first Raft support located right behind the end of the forecastle and the support protected by some shielding:
The shield is the part from the kit (protecting the front gun), reduced in length, with 40% reduction. Everything else is built with styrene strips and a lot of adjustments:
Once in place, it provides the ship with a nice look:
The rafts are not yet ready and will be added later. Below is where we stand at that moment:
Yves
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gieb8688 reacted to yvesvidal in Flower-Class Corvette by Yves Vidal - FINISHED - 1/48 - Bensworx Virtual Kit - 3D printed
MODULE #5 - THE ENGINE ROOM
This is a complex module, not so much as it is described in the kit, but because of all the necessary work to make it look like the HMCS Snowberry.
We start with a bare roof and its extension, which has been described in a previous post:
The railing is added. I like to do the railing first, as it is delicate and as the stanchions need to be inserted in a particular order. All the straight lines are glued first, the rails are then inserted, bent and the remaining stanchions are added. It is not perfect but looks quite convincing from a couple of feet away.
Next, we add the skylights after gluing a piece of clear plastic underneath:
The cowl pipes are added as well as cowls and access way:
So far, it is all 3D printed and straight from the kit, with the exception of the cowl supports, reduced in height by 10%.
Yves
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gieb8688 reacted to yvesvidal in Flower-Class Corvette by Yves Vidal - FINISHED - 1/48 - Bensworx Virtual Kit - 3D printed
To conclude on Module #4, I owed you a picture of the finished dinghies, with their set of oars. Again, these are 3D printed, painted white and dry brushed with some acrylic raw Sienna paint.
Next is Module #5, the top of the engine room.
Yves
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gieb8688 reacted to yvesvidal in Flower-Class Corvette by Yves Vidal - FINISHED - 1/48 - Bensworx Virtual Kit - 3D printed
Completion of the Module #4: Galley and Smoke house + Dinghies:
The dinghies were printed by a friend who is an expert with Resin 3D printers. I tried to print them with my PLA printer and the results were mediocre at best. With the resin printing, they came out really nice and smooth. Printing these dinghies required tilting the design, to allow for a smooth result as shown on the picture below:
All the benches and floors are from the BENSWORX kit and have been covered with some 1/32 inch planking. The tillers are simply a tooth pick....
More pictures of the finished module:
The davits again, gave a very poor result on the PLA 3D printer. I decided to just keep the bases, drill them and use a brass rod of 1.5 mm to build the upper part of the davits. They look a hundred times better.... The rope drums are the drums from the kit, but simply reduced at 75% during the printing process. These smaller units are more in line with the davits.
The dinghies are still missing the oars, being painted....
Notice on the above picture the two ladders (can we call these stairs?) going from the forecastle deck to the lower deck. Ladders are from the kit but the piece of upper deck was described in a previous post and is not part of the kit. Trying to get as much resemblance to Snowberry as possible...
A couple of overall views of the beast:
With the deck in place, it is now really looking like a Corvette:
Next will be Module #5, the engine room. The next module is a significant amount of work due to the numerous parts going on top of the engine room. I will be describing it in a little while.
Yves
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gieb8688 reacted to reklein in USS Missouri by reklein - Sterling - 1/192 Scale
Well here we are Four coats of rustoleum prime and still lumpy,but it doesn't look too bad in the photo so I guess it wil have to do.
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gieb8688 reacted to EricWilliamMarshall in USS Perry by EricWilliamMarshall - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - Scale 1/96
This is my first encounter with a BlueJacket Shipcrafters' kit. This kit comes with a carved hull carefully wrapped, a number of packages of nicely and cleanly cast metal bits, clean laser cut lumber as well as brass photo etch! The plans are new (dated 2017 and huge!) and the instructions were printed with color photos (on 'regular' printer paper). To my untrained eye, this kit has had a complete make-over in comparison to the older USS Perry kits of yesteryear lurking in the corners which may visit Ebay every so often. Here is my obligatory photo of everything before I start to make a mess of it!!
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gieb8688 reacted to John Ruy in Bowdoin by John Ruy - FINISHED - Laughing Whale - 1/48 Scale - Arctic Exploration Schooner
Yep @clearway the mast are not glued in yet either, so I can set the sails before dropping the masts in and setting the standing rigging. I’m still considering how to present the sails. 🧐 I’m thinking silk span rather than sewing, it would be a first for me. Although, at this scale I might use cloth, I am just not sure how it would look some furled and some set.
I am leaning towards fully set suit of sails with sewn cloth, saving the silk span for smaller scale.
Opinions please. 🤔
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gieb8688 reacted to John Ruy in Bowdoin by John Ruy - FINISHED - Laughing Whale - 1/48 Scale - Arctic Exploration Schooner
Here is my inspiration photo…
Fully set full suit of sails 😎
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gieb8688 reacted to rvchima in Marie Felling by rvchima - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:32 - Harbour Tug
Stanchions and Railings
The kit includes single-ball stanchions for the searchlight deck, 2-ball stanchions for the main deck, and lots of nice, 1.5 mm diameter brass rod. Every build log mentioned above says that that the cast metal stanchions are just too flimsy, but one builder said that his kit came with brass stanchions, and another managed to buy replacements. Caldercraft does sell brass stanchions the correct height so I ordered some a while ago. I ordered 3-ball stanchions for the main deck, planning to cut off the top ball and cap it with a wood railing. When it was time to install them I discovered that the 3-ball stanchions had 1 mm holes, and the single-ball stanchions have .02" (.51 mm) holes, both too small for my brass rod. I ended up buying more brass rod the correct diameters.
Here's a sample of the cast stanchions at the top and the brass stanchions below.
I drilled mounting holes in the deck and assembled the railings in place.
I lifted the entire rail assembly from the deck and sprayed it separately.
The cap rails were made from some scrap mahogany using this jig to hold each piece while I rounded the edges.
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gieb8688 reacted to rvchima in Marie Felling by rvchima - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:32 - Harbour Tug
Making Progress But More to Do
Here's everything stacked up. You can see the boat deck attached to atop the forward cabin now. Most of the small parts have been attached to the deck, but the cabins and bridge are all separate.
Lest you think that I'm almost finished, here are all the parts that I still have to complete.