gieb8688

Good morning everyone,  I was able to get a small start on the second planking on the port side.   

A little more progress with bulkhead fascia installed and some progress at the stern.   Scott
 

Good afternoon everyone,  It has been a few months since I posted an update. I’ve have had very little time in the shipyard -between work and home and life in general it seems I can only steal away an hour or two on the weekends. I’m now getting to the point where the first planking is largely complete.   I’ve added filler and am working on sanding to try to get as smooth and consistent a base as I can.   Stay safe, Scott 

Ever so slowly the first planking continues.  I soak each plank several hours and clamp to the ship and let dry. Then I remove the plank and taper. So far this seems to have worked well.  

Hi Cathead, I sure hope that's true, because there's a multitude of mistakes on this!  But I appreciate what you are saying, and yes, I am VERY happy that this kit was only $49!  (And with tools, since I didn't have any, it seemed like the best choice!)
 
So I went ahead and replaced part of the broken frame with a newly carved piece, and it seems to look ok.  And as you said, the end result hopefully will result in a good "overall impression", if people don't look too closely at the details!  (I have friends who are amazed that I'm even attempting this!)

A little bit crooked, but hoping no one will notice!

 
 

Looks like it can be fixed with some glue and clamps.  Just glue the broken piece back on and once dried, place wood glue between the frame and the plank and clamp until the glue is dry.  Be sure to place a scrap of wood between the plank and the clamp so that the clamp does not leave an impression in the plank.  You can get good clamps at a very reasonable price from Harbor Freight.  You can never have too many clamps.  Your model looks good.  Do not be too hard on yourself as this model is a learning experience for you.

I’ve finished the planking. Didn't look too bad at this point, or so I thought!

 Made the little “false stem” too.

 
But freeing the frames from the frame tops proved a bit more difficult. Broke a frame in the process.

 
At this point, after attaching the side cleats, I took stock of my progress.   It's not good!  Broken frame, lots of excess glue blobs, strakes that don’t attach to the frames, frayed wood planks, and many other imperfections. At this point, it’s looking really bad...

 
And what I am learning about myself is eye-opening. I know I’m not a perfectionist, and that’s ok. But I always thought of myself as a patient person. Not so! I wanted to “get this done”, so I didn’t take time with gluing, or taking care of the frames, or staying patient with the process. I kept thinking it’ll be “good enough”… 
Not sure I can salvage or fix any of this, but I'm hopeful that by continuing, some of this will be resolved (or covered up!) with the gunwale and cap rail going forward.  And I think some additional wood filler and creative sanding will help too!
(The good news is that if I turn it sideways, and don't look too close, it looks better!)   
 

Ok, I've done my best to "fix" the end of the sheer strake.  
 

 
It's not perfect, but I am satisfied with how it turned out and I can go forward now and finish the planking.  My hope is that final sanding and paint will cover a multitude of sins!

Help!.  My first MAJOR mistake... I broke the Sheer Strake!  Right at the bow where the hole for the becket is, I glued the sheer strake too low on the bow, so I tried to remove it.  I had used the yellow wood glue, and tried multiple applications of isopropyl alcohol, but when I tried to lift it off the broad strake, it broke.  Any ideas on what I need to do to fix this?  (Will Model Shipways send me a new piece?  Can I use wood filler or putty (neither of which I know how to use)?  Looking for advice.. I'm really discouraged...
What can  I do?  You can see that part of the sheer is still glued to the broad strake.  I really made a mess of this!  And is the alcohol supposed to work on Yellow glue?  Or just the white?  Thanks for any suggestions!

Steps 7, 8 and 9… getting there. Not getting to do as much on the model this week. It’s amazing how fast these “retirement days” fill up with other stuff to do!   Bending the garboard planks went fairly well.
 
Gluing this first plank was a challenge.

 
And as you can see, I made a mess of it!
 
But I was happy with how it turned out, after sanding everything down.  Although itn looks like it has separated from the bottom, its been tightly glued.  I'm hoping the final painting will cover up this gaff!

At this point I was beginning to feel a bit more confident. Bending the Broad plank wasn’t too bad… I poured hot water from my Kuerig coffee maker onto a dinner plate, and let the wood soak for about 7 minutes.

And gluing, although stressful, seemed to go a little better than the first planks.  I had found all these little clothespins at Target, which are really helping to secure things. I’m happy with how this one side turned out. Now I need to do the other side.

 
The only problem so far... the transom is getting beat up in the process! I now plan on leaving it alone till I finish the planking, then I can hopefully sand/glue/fill any dings or problems at that time. Stay tuned!
 
And thanks, everyone, again for all the words of wisdom and the "likes".  I've started looking at all your current projects and I am humbled, after seeing your incredibly complex models, that you would take time to comment on my little boat!  I'm really impressed with this community!

Starting steps 4, 5 and 6. I was nervous (again), but went ahead with the frames. I’m glad I used the drawings on page 5 of the instructions. Page 4 wasn’t sized exactly right. I’ve been using wax paper under everything to catch any excess glue (and to avoid gluing my model to my new cutting mat!) And then, I used a single blade from a box cutter to slide under the frame to disengage it from being glued to the wax paper!

 
I didn’t worry too much about excess glue on the frame tops, because those will be cut off later. Meanwhile, I learned an important factoid. Apparently, if you spill some isopropyl alcohol on your nice kitchen table, it removes the finish completely! (Oops!) Hence the new cutting mat!

 
Time for the building board. Tried to sand the char off the top. Wasn’t as successful as I wanted, but I didn’t want to break anything. Everything still seems incredibly fragile! I’m hoping the planking will give the model some “substance”!
 
Step 6 – letting it dry. I added some weight to the top to make sure it’s all glued well. AND I switched to using yellow wood glue (which came in the kit). It seems to work better for me.

The very scary “planking” is next, but letting this dry overnight before I have to face my fears!!!

Thanks everyone, for the tips!  Ok, I THINK i've figured out the photo issues.  Here goes!
I've finished steps 1, 2 and 3.  I may be overdoing this blog but I've decided to post everything I'm doing along the way, with my thoughts along with it!
So step 1 – using the one-piece bottom, I was able to get the cleats attached (this went fairly well)

 
I still can’t really understand how to use “water & brush” to remove excess glue, but my toothpick seemed to work for me!

 
Step 2 adding the stem. I had to redo this a couple times.  Glue didn’t seem to be holding.

 
In the forward view, it looks a bit crooked to me, but I’m hoping its just the camera angle!

Next came the transom, stern knee, and stern cleat. I did the transom and the stern knee first, and then realized I had forgotten the stern cleat. But it seemed to turn out ok.

Side view

 
The next step went ok...

 
And finally, to end my work for today, I curved the bottom.  At first, I was worried because the ends of the dory were much higher than 1/8" (as in this pic), but as it dried, the ends came down to where they needed to be!  I am very happy with what I did today... lots to learn, but its fun!

 

Don,
Going with the launch, cutter, and yawl mentioned by Vancouver, the actual lengths for the boats for a survey ship are probably anyone's guess.   Looking at 6th rate Navy fighting ships in your time frame, they would have carried five boats, but if you only go with three for a 99 foot survey ship, fewer boats may be correct.  The Establishment called for a 21 foot launch, 22 foot pinnace,  18 foot cutter and two 24 foot cutters.    Lacking better contemporary information, and considering only three boats, maybe consider a  21 to 24 foot foot launch, 18 to 25 foot cutter, and a 16 or 18 foot yawl.   All scantlings for all of these sizes and types are on pages 58-61 in May's The Boats of Man of War.  I think if you go with boats of similar size you cannot be faulted for your choices.     
 
Search the Collections site of RMG for drawings that fit the time of Discovery.   One example of many yawl drawings is https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/86917.html   Again, for accurate dimensional information on about every part from keel to thwarts of these boats can be found in May's book which is probably the best book out there concerning English ships' boats.  (There are used copies on Amazon for $11.)
 
Unless a boat was hung from stern davits, I don't think they would have ever sat athwartships.

Once again Test fitting the superstructure , always looking  for flaws , the hull colour will  lighten up, by mixing in some battleship grey, still thinking about the deck & topside weathering & chipping

Scratch built  Weathered life raft to be stowed on the day cabin.    Salt, tropical conditions, sun all  took there tole on the rafts

I would have,  but a lot of the below deck won't be seen.  if I was into cut aways........this boat would be a god candidate    you must follow John Drain's work Al........I have a couple of his links bookmarked    his laser cut deck link explains a lot about the deck......the pattern,  dead lights,  and bits & bobbles.  straight fore and aft it is   
 
I did a little bit more this morning......added a bit more to the ammo lockers.

wasn't keen on the way they were shown,  so I changed a couple things.  

still need to add the supports at the bottom.  I started to work on the access hatch,  but I got diverted to the smoke generator.  I don't have one of those disc sanders.......the end was rounded off by hand.......and it took a while.  the metal parts supplied in the kit are not that good....had to do some shaping to the base ring of the nozzle and file down the locator pin,  cleaning up the flash and stuff.  I made up the chocks that it sits on and set it aside to dry,  so I could do more.

 

still more to add....not too crazy about the other end.....there is some chipping.  to be honest,  I'm not a big fan of the solid pieces of wood ,  supplied in most kits.  if the part made from it is supposed to be hollow...or has a window,  it's very hard to portray a window that you can look through. the only recourse,  is to use a dark cello,  like window tinting material {which I have some},  or resort to using other bits of cello.....like the discs that can be found in old computer floppy discs { I also have some still....my earlier attempt at making windows}.  the access hatch is shaped by lopping off two areas from the block of wood.  I did it with my scroll saw without it wrenching it from my fingers......took some sanding too

 

I guess I'll be shaping the life raft too.......this will be interesting  

the chipping problem was quickly remedied...from the collection of metal odds and ends,  I found a bit of brass tube that will cover the sin.  the straps are on it now as well.

 

once painted,  no one will ever know.  the grab bag of metal bits I bought from Micro Mark came through for me again..........     I should go out and check the front brakes in the car,  but I really don't feel like it.  I have an inspection on Friday.  we were planning to buy another car,  but at the last minute,  the admiral voted it down.......perhaps by summer's end....maybe.   
 
another bit of news........I made a breakthrough with the budget director..........I ordered a wooden deck for a [hopefully near} future project.  this will be my first one,  and I ordered it from BNA Models.  we'll see how long it takes to get it.   PE railings are next.......wish me luck  
 
thanks all for the kind comments and likes!

was it fully planked?   pictures I've seen looked like it was planking up to the helm,  plywood at the mid ship around the structures......I'm guessing about the stern.  was it laid fore to aft,  or angled?
 

I thought it kinda silly not to show the gun turrets without at least part of the goodies attached.  it's too bad those center deck parts are so warped.....it makes the whole thing look so disheveled.   since there really isn't much to go on,  I just guessed with the framework for the engine cover.

there's a bit more to it....when this was dry enough,  I added more framing......some pictures of how it would look in place

the port side is trimmed to allow the gun turret,  but I wasn't keen on the gap between the cover and the day cabin.

the shield that branches off on the starboard side of the turret crosses over this gap and divides it 

side view of the starboard shield......you can just make out where the cover roof ends.  looking at this diagram,  you'd almost get the sense that this area of the deck frame is cut out and all this is assembled as an assembly.  it then can be removed to access the R/C stuff.  at this point,  this is what you get.

basically,  I simply take some of the same thickness plywood {what the roof is made of},  and fill the gap in.

cut out the continuance of the circle cut out,  and you get this

when its all cemented on the deck,  some quarter round stripping will pretty it up.  I started to make the ammo boxes......there are a couple more structure bits that fill it out.

This information is from John Lambert and my ALLIED COASTAL FORCES OF WWII, Volume 2, and was taken directly from ELCO drawings, of which I have hundreds.  PT103-196, 314-367, 372-383 had planked decks.  PT486-563, 565 on had plywood decks.

thanks OC.....and those who hit the like button    I went a little bit further......and of course,  more today.   
 
for a change of pace,  I started to do a little on the torpedo tubes.......first to separate and sand all the chocks.  they are made of resin and were all connected together.

never messed with resin before........kinda messy.   after cleaning the floor before Gibbs comes sniffing around,  the nose and tail parts were added to the tubes.......more detail to be added.

on deck are the pivot plates...these are the front ones for the forward and aft tubes......the rear ones are stationary,  but are pinned to allow the tubes to be positioned inward and outward.  as mentioned,  these tubes were a bit unreliable........information I've read told of them having to be hit with a hammer,  in order to get them to fire!  sounded scary to me............   the last section to be assembled is the engine cover,  which is connected to the day cabin.  according to the instructions.....which is very scant......they don't even give measurements,  just a few for positioning.  

the center deck parts are warped pretty good......it is making it harder to get proper measurements.  I see a change I want to make too,  where the cover mates to the day cabin.  I'll get into it more on the next update.

I have been all over that 103 site........indeed there is a lot of good info there.  since the model is of the PT 109,  I though I'd take a browse into John F. Kennedy while I was at it.  originally,  he was assigned to PT 101,  squadron 14 {RON 14},  to patrol along the Panama Canal.  while he languished here,  PT 109 was in the process of being shipped to the Pacific theatre,  aboard the U.S.S. Joseph Stanton,  along with three other boats.  these transport ships could only carry four at a time.

Kennedy put in for a transfer against his parents wishes,  and with the Help of a Mass. congressman,  found himself heading for Tulagi Island,  where Squadron 2 was based.  he took command of PT 109 on April 23, 1943.  
   two other things I found out in my browsings,  was that the torpedoes weren't that great,  and neither was the radar systems in these boats......half the time they were unreliable or didn't work at all.  now that the hull can sit on her new stand,  I can start to flesh out the deck layout.  the deck platform has a punch out on each half,  to enable access to the R/C works.......the entire structure can be removed.  matching the punch outs to the correct side that they came from.......makes for a better fit.

that's the new table.......a bit lower than what I had before.  I'll see if the creases in the top gives me any trouble.  if they do,  I'll have to get something to cover it over.....Formica or the like.   I wasn't sure if I wanted to trim the helm structure or the turret rook to fit.......easiest was to just trim the helm structure.  

basically,  this is how it will sit......to be removed along with the rest of the center structures.   the structure isn't finished yet........and there's something I'm not too crazy about.  the companionway entry to me seems too small.......that,  and I'm still puzzled how the back wall {that little piece I made earlier} fits.   so I cut it all out except for the control panel.

thinking it should be wider,  I cut about 1/8 off of the control panel.   the opening was walled off again with cast off basswood,  and added a door,  which was an extra from the Progress's fittings kit.   those two choppy looking pieces in front are additional shields.....gotta figure how they come into play with this part of the structures.  the wood is Spruce plywood.......terrible stuff to work with.  as mentioned,  being die cut,  the parts need to be scored before they are punched out of the parts panels.  as for that small section of back wall,  it too was shortened by about an 1/8,  and trimmed to fit the relief toward the end of the port side wall.  now it has the proper configuration.

 

...and with the turret rook in place.....

 

I started with the starboard side shield.   here where the wood grain can help you.......cutting a piece of 1/32 basswood the height needed,  I got it wet,  and let it set for a few moments.  patting it down damp,  it was cemented {with CA} around the edge of the shield 'floor'.  with a pair of scissors,  it was trimmed with a curve,  ending straight down where it opens to the deck.  the grain when wet will be a lot more forgiving,  for bending it to this degree.          it  was then glued to the flat surface of the starboard side 'end' box.  the wood still damp,  it still remembers that it was once straight,  so it need to be taught that it now has the bend.  the structure was clamped to the table,  keeping everything flat until it dries.

 

using the grain as a tool can add interest and natural curvature and contour.  it beats having to round off corners.  there are a few chiggers in the shield floor......there will be in the other one too.  I could have simply scratch cut another pair,  but I have something else in mind.  I could have gone further,  but I started to clean off table white....then ended up painting the pin rail parts for the Agillis while the work I did on the PT boat dries.  I should have more tomorrow  

today is the big day........just waiting for the temp to warm up out there.  both windows are open now........got some positive flow through     after wiping her down with a clean cloth,  she got her first coat of resin  

she is still wet.......gonna be really shiny  

applied with a brush in loooong strokes

WHOA!!!!!  what is that..........it seems a brush hair is ruining the first coat.  I got a pick and removed it........went back over the offended area.  my tool boxes are covered over because the roof leaks.  told the landlord,  but he hasn't done anything about it.

 

better without the hair   

so as this cures,  it should smooth out some.  it will also perk up the wood hairs,  so a light sanding will be in order.  I like the way it filled in around the tubes.  just as well....it's errand time anyway  ........it will have plenty of time to dry.
 
......early evening---->  I'm grill'in supper,  so I brought her in the house.  don't want her to take on a smoky barbeque flavor.  I did take a quick look at the deck platform,  and there is very little on it.  I tried not to.  I took these a short time ago.......as I was posting this batch of updates.  she is slightly tacky to the touch,  only in certain areas.  she'll have four days to fully cure before I will do anything more to her.  

 

the small gaps along the gunwale filled in nicely....the finish is a little rough.

 

the panel joints look good.......I'll know for sure when I can get some paint on her  

oh yesssss.....my weekend / your week {however you want to look at it}.   it comes to a close,  so I'd better release it from the bonds of the camera.  more sanding was done.......more filling of the joints as well......prep for the big day.  I run my fingers over the panel joints,  and I don't feel a thing.  the deck frame surface was sanded as well........looks good enough to begin laying  the deck platform down.   I'm just going ahead and doing it....I'll have more than enough room to assemble the rudder set up.  

you can see that I added some short strips along the center frame.......the better to cement the deck platforms onto.........

when the starboard side was dry enough,  the port side was laid down.

there was an errand in there somewhere,  but it was given time to dry.   I did occupy my time on other things.......like assembling the 20 mm gun.  the instructions stated that this is actually 1:20 / 1:24,  which scared me a bit.........until I realized this was where I found the instructions in the first place..
   noting the color of the plastic,  is an indication that this is virgin plastic.   it is a UV cured acrylic plastic.  I looked into one of these machines,  and wished I could own one...way out of my league.  nothing I read said that it was recycled plastic.......but the color also indicates that nothing has been added to it.  the milky color comes from the wax to prevent sticking...injection molding.  I use to work at a facility that made automotive bushings,  seals,  and other products and parts for hydraulic.....caterpillar comes to mind.  they also made timing belts.  I used to run what they called 'hot runners' ....meaning that machine didn't stop for a second........every min and a half,  it would spit out parts.....in different denominations,  depending what it was set up for at the time.  it would open,  spit out the parts and close again.......over and over.  the only pause was when I would wax and wipe........and inspect the parts to insure that there are no defects.  there's a lot more to it....but it irreverent,  since I don't work there no more........not for quite a long time ago........it's where I met the admiral     as mentioned.....the parts are brittle......just like clear parts {I know you've found that out at least once in your model building existence  }.  I broke one part assembling it.  odd,  but the instructions say that regular model cement won't work on this plastic.......so I used CA.

compared to the supplied gun.......what a difference!  of course,  I haven't added anything else to the original gun,  but the detail this one has is really nice.  

the instructions does list the aspects that can be added to it to make it look more realistic.  I tried adding a pin in the locking lever in the front so it could be movable,  but when I went to trim off the pin sticking out,  it snapped part of the bracket.  so,  it is glued.......this dashes my hopes to put a pin so the gun would be movable.  I rather not make the same mistake twice.
   the rest of the day was devoted to sanding along the edge of the gunwale / deck platform,  to make it flush and fill in the gaps.

After nearly 4 years of searching, I have finally received information on the identity of the model shown below. It was found in an antique shop in upstate NY by a member of the Modelshipwrights of Western New York much as it appears today. Sadly the member has died and I purchased it from his estate as it is a superbly built scratch model of faithful reproduction. I just could not let it fall by the wayside in the estate liquidation.
 
With the help of members of the Hampton Roads and New Jersey modelers group it was found in the National Watercraft Collection publication by Howard Chapelle. Plans (lines and deck layout) reside in the Smithsonian archives and I have requested a copy to support my restoration.
 
The pictures attached are from my cell phone and as I cannot call myself an amateur photographer they will have to do until I invest in better equipment. The pictures do not do justice to the quality of this model so I add further description.
 
The model is about 27 inches at the waterline with a breath of approximately 6 inches. Given the information in the National Watercraft Collection second edition it would be 1:24 scale as that seems to be the size of the full scale vessel or 55 feet (WL). She is constructed of boxwood.It appears to be fully ribbed internally. I might add that the model has some years of age as the wood has mellowed to a rich creamy  tan color. Everything about this model shouts it is the work of a master modeler. All planking, joinery, fittings, rigging and detail are flawlessly done. All deck fittings are scratch built from ferrous metal. All blocks and rigging treatment are of fine execution. The decking and planking is treated with simulated tree nails. The builder must have familiarized him or her self with construction details that can be found in Chapelle's e book, The Migrations of an American Boat Type, as they are so well reproduced in the model.
 
It needs some work, as in its travels some items are missing or in need of repair. These include some cabin and engine room hatches, the repair of the main well amid ship that has stared to come apart, rigging that needs repair or replacement and it sorely needs a new mounting and case.
 
I would like to document its restoration work for the sake of tje former modeler in hopes that someone out there may recognize her and possibly identify the person who built this fine model.
 
Work will begin when the Smithsonian plan shows up.
 
Joe

It’s way past time to catch up with my progress on this model.
 
CHAPTER 4. Carving the Hull
 
The basic hull for the model was built in two stages.  Stage 1 in the early 1990’s and was based on my first lines drawing drawn from limited information.  Stage 2 was completed after the stage 1 hull had sat for many years and was based on the lines drawn from the table of offsets.   Fortunately my Stage 2 hull was just a refinement of my previous work.
 
The hull was carved from ordinary 3/4in lumberyard pine.  In doing so, I try to take advantage of flat surfaces wherever possible.  I, therefore, like to make hulls as two half models.  This allows the flat centerline hull surface to lay on a flat surface when checking the hull with templates.  It also means that I can cut the hull’s longitudinal profile on my bandsaw.
 
This sketch shows the scheme that I used to build the hull.  It shows one half only.
 

 
The holes for the locator pins for the two half hull pieces were drilled while the halves were still rough blocks.  This ensures that the two half hulls will register correctly once shaped.  Areas II and III are solid laminations unlike area I which was built up from three separate pieces as shown.  The bilge radius along the parallel middle body was cut with a router bit.
 
I still remember being surprised to learn in my introductory Naval Architecture course that in the real world the bilge radius was set by the diameter of the shipyard’s plate rolls.  I was disappointed to learn that there was not some rigorous analysis made.
 
Once shaped, the hull was coated with two coats of two part epoxy tank lining paint left over from a boatbuilding project.  I used this because I intended to plate the hull with sheet brass secured with two sided transfer tape and wanted a smooth impervious surface.  I have abandoned that idea and I hope that this coating will not interfere with the system that I choose to simulate plating.
 
Here are the finished hull halves.  My next post will discuss marking out the hull for the plating.