captainbob

Just a small update. The quarter gallery doors and windows/lights have been carved, painted and installed on both the port and starboard. 
The wood bases for the quarter gallery taffrails has also been installed - now to make approximately 120 tiny spindles for these railings. (spindles is probably not the correct nautical term - please feel free to tell me the correct one)
 

 

OK..........I'll start over with this last bit of my update......................................
 
with the panels nearly ready,   it was time to get the deck beams in place.   I could have gotten really creative with them,  but they are what they are......just beams.    using 1/4 x 1/4 square stock,  the required lengths were cut and notched to even them up to the decking strips,  going lengthwise from bow to stern.   I was not going to get fussy with them.
 

 

 
an additional beam was added to the bow section,  near rib #6.   I had a wild idea of cutting out the two areas of this rib {the two sides that border the opening to the pilot house},  leaving enough to constitute the bulwark posts,  in an effort to make the main deck look longer.   I may do that with one of the other hulls.....I just have to think up a more creative pilot house.   notice the opening for the pilot house......it is uneven........I have a solution for it,  you'll see.   the horns on both sides of the ribs,  needed to be sanded down to sit even with the deck beams..........sanding dust still can be seen.
 

 
the port side was cemented in first......followed with the starboard side.   there is a noticeable gap in the middle of the deck platform.  that's OK though.......filler can always used here.  Elmer and I are very good friends      for that opening to the pilot house,   I took one of the shavings from the deck beams and shimmed a board to go across........it is a bit raised and will serve well for the basis for a doorway stoop.
 

 
...and with the clamps and pins removed,  filler added and sanded,  the main deck platform is done at this point.   I am quite pleased with how the deck platform mates the bulwarks....very minor filling is required......I could even get away with using white glue.
 

 
I'll have to look into what to do with the bow section..........this hull seems to have it's direction already laid out for it.   I can plank the other hulls and decide whether to plank or paint the deck{s}.   I'll most likely plank.........seems to be how I roll 
 
 

Build log part 11
 
 
 
 

be invited for a walk on the boatsdeck
 

and on the poop working deck
 

flag tabernakel and grating on the upper bridge
 

lifejacket Containment on the Forward portside boatsdeck
 

Fitting of load beams
 

Fitting beams to mast bearings (sorry for pic Quality)
 

 
 

Tackling davit
 

checking Position of Davit-block to boat
 

upper Bridge Cage completed
 
 
 
build log part 12 to follow....

Building log part 10
 
 
 
 

machine well Skylights done, railings on boatsdeck and started on funneldeck
 

forecastle railing fixed
 

this and next Picture railings fixed
 

 

railings, pillars for boatsdeck and upper Bridge stachions painted white
 

stairs to upper Bridge fitted and all stairs painted
 
 

upper Bridge rim completed
 
 

prefitting for davits
 

outer Bridge rim White (except for soldering area of stair)
 

attaching middle wires of stairs to boatsdeck and railing
 
 
 
Build log part 11 to follow.....

Build log part 9
 
 

different size vents
 

machine room skylights
 

ongoing Fitting out
 

cross check with plan
 

starting to look like the Heinrich Kayser
 

copper Fittings from the crafters used for Basic funnel construction, have to do some cutting though
 

 
 

 
 

angle of funnels match mast angle
 
 

 
 
 
Building log part 10 to follow

January has been a cold month here, and, with my workshop in the basement, the working conditions have not been ideal. Nevertheless, I've been (slowly) working on the life boats. I determined that they are 5.25" long. I got a plan out of a book (thank you Portia) and sized it on the copier to the proper length. Now, I'm just putting them together. They have a canvas cover over them, so I don't need to do the interiors.
 

 
The stays, with turnbuckles, for the stack all came out fine. I'll see if I can get a decent photo, but I've got a poor camera for detail work.
 
Tom
 
 

Two build logs of same boat by same person? ? ? ?
 
Bob

Here is the corrected video, thank you for being patient.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBji-Oz3J7E
 
 

 
Paul

Because my pilot cutter needs longer ropes than I can make on my 10 foot long traditional ropewalk, I have been working on one inspired by the design that Alex Domanoff designed.
 

 

 
My machine uses an "O" ring belt drive and is only 3.5 inches in diameter. it uses the bobbins from my old Cepel treadle sewing machine the bobbins seem to be a bit wider than some they are .47 inches wide.I have started testing the machine and still have to make the take up spool.
 

 

 
The whorls are set in double 3/8 x 3/16 shouldered ball races.
 

 
I am testing it with three colours so that I can sort out the tensions on each whorl. The threads are just what was already on the bobbins.
 

 
The base is Brazilian Rosewood and the mounts are Gaboon Ebony.
The sun gear is phenolic 48DP 49 teeth
The idler gears are made from 48DP x15 Pinion stock
The moon gears are 48DP x 24 Duralumin gear that was 6 inches long salvaged from some equipment 30 years ago.
 
Electric motor is a surplus 9v from princess auto, mounted on a piece of 1/8 thick brass with a 1/4 steel rod set through one of the ebony mounts.
 

 
The 1/4 inch hole in the guide plate will accept some silver steel dies, once I know what I'm doing.
 
Thanks again Alex for the inspiration. I had the time and materials on hand.
 
Michael
 

I love the metal work.  It really makes a ship.
 
Bob

Build log part 6
 
 
 

hold rim with removable hatchcovers
 

raw Forward mast
 

crows nest, the Access ladder from deck not fixed yet
 

take up Points for swivel loadbeams
 

after some paint touchups ...
 

plymsol marking at waterline
 

marking of Name and Registration port
 

These 3 pics..., quite pleased with the results so far
 

 

 
 
 
 
Build log part 7 to follow

Build log part 7
 
ship is now tugged out alongside the Fitting out quay of the yard
 
 
 
 

etched brass stairs
 

check, fit to scale approved OK
 

brass rim fitted to lower deckhousing, all around the boatsdeck
 

self explaining
 

in opposite to the workdecks the forecastle deck is Wood planked
 

the soldering Task gets a Little tricky here (too much heat in one place loostens the already tight neighbour ones again)
 

checking with plan, space requirements for boats, Davits and boat Access platforms
 

cardboard template for complete boat deck base
 

stanchions for upper Bridge fixed and soldered
note the workdecks are painted tan, "earthbrown"
 

self explaining...
 
 
 
 
Build log part 8 to follow....

Build log part 8
 
 
 

template topview for boatdeck
 
 

checking Position of midship stairs down to Forward working deck
 

deckhouse stairs to boatstations
 

aftstair from boatdeck to working poopdeck
 

view backwards at this building stage
 

wooden planking of boatsdeck, here also the bearing Support-sleeves for taking up the Davits already mounted
 

 
 

 
 

main wheelhouse, Navigation room and officers duty station
 

freshwater storage tank with vent on top
 
 
 
Build log part 9 to follow....

Hi Folks
It has been a little while since i updated my log, so here is what i was up to....
 I installed the ceiling on the starboard side, i did not run the planking down the full length of the hull, mainly because of the way I am going to build up the cabin and display the model when completed.
It was pretty straight forward, I just fit 1/32" thick strips,although  I wasn't a 100% sure if the ceiling planks were continuous planks, or butt-jointed and staggered.... so I went with the butt-joints, and purposely leaving slight gaps to help with the illusion of a used vessel.

I couldn't agree more.
 
Bob

This should be a fun boat to sail.
 
Bob

WOW !   That says it all.
 
Bob

Build log part 5
 
 

for making the stand Posts I use brass candle holders (found on flee-markets)
 

the anchorchain port reinforcements are fitted
 

begin... rivited structure to deckhouses and hatch rims
 

further Fitting out
 

midship deckhouses, on deck inbetween the coal bunker hatchcovers
 

forecastle compartments
 

so far well under way...
 

workdecks ready for priming, painting
 

the figures are scale 1:100
 

the portside depth indications are in Roman figures
 
 
 
Build log part 6 to follow....

Building log part 3
 
 

brought on White primer coating and Sub waterline red
 

the last Picture where the hull is still fixed to the baseplate. The upper hull portions shall be plated and painted when the decks have been permanently mounted
 

hull seperated from baseplate, all went well, no Twist, no destortions
 

extreme lightweight hull, prop- and ruddershaft already mounted, superstructure for deck Support can be seen
 

riged structure in forecastle area
 
 

decks made from 1,5 mm thick 4-layer Aeroplywood
 

the Forward maindeck, 3 hatches, and the quite Long poopdeck, 2 hatches,(working decks) are going to be metal plated. These decks were of steel plating due to rough cargo handlingand overcoming heavy seas. The cardboard template behind hatch #4 Shows the riviting pattern for deck plating
 

hatch # 1 behind the forecastle bulkhead
 

bow section before finalizing the decks and the final plating
 
 

raw workdecks mounted, midship deckhouses started, hull painting done and forecastle bulleyes mounted. It`s now slowly looking like a ship should be...
 
 
 
 
Build log part 4 to follow.....

Build log part 2
 
 

planking completed, rudder and sternpost reinforcement mounted, minimized Polyesterfiller where necassary, and poopquarter knee-whale attached
 
 

impressions of rudder making components
 

the five blade prop is only an interim solution, a four blade historic prop with blades bolted-on the central hub is to follow later
 

here first time experience Begins with metal plating for hull
The hull wooden surface is sanded smooth and fixed with quick dying transperant liquid filler, which drys off quickly leaving a real smooth and shiny surface on which the self-adhesive Aluminium foil sticks like hell. No Problem with roll-embossing the foil plates from the rear plate side, because the rivit immitations are roolled-in before the protection foil on the plate rearside is removed, giving free the glue film.
 

Workstation for making the plates
 

leave a gap between first and second plating line, the third plating line is set by overlapping the edges of first and second line
Note : vertical rivit Joints have 4 rows of rivits, horizontal Joints have 2 rivit rows
 

plating nearly done, the whole hull is still mounted to the shipyard baseplate
Mounted into the keel are two reinforced M5 female threads for the later to be mounted stand-bolts
 

the upper hull portions have not been plated yet
 

soldered, full functional mounted rudder before plating, shaft going through to poop deck
 

here the upside down 135 cm Long hull is nearly ready for seperating from the baseplate, it is very stiff, riged and of lightweight

Steamship Heinrich Kayser
 
Introduction to this build log, by Nils Langemann
 
The steamship Heinrich Kayser was launched in 1898 baptized to its birthname „Elbing“ and was one of the typical new fast merchant vessels built for the D.A.D.G. (Deutsch Australische Dampfschiffahrts Gesellschaft) shipping company at the FSG shipyard in Flensburg, northern Germany. It served the trade route Europe via Cape of Good Hope or via Suez Canal and the red sea and across the Indian Ocean to several Australian Ports together with her sister ships on regulary basis for many years.
After WW1 and in compliance with the Treaty of Versailles demands the Elbing went under command and management of a british shipping controller, from which the “Elbing” was bought back again by the Hamburg based Kayser & Sohn shipping Company in 1921, which renamed the vessel to “Heinrich Kayser”. In 1922 my grandfather was appointed as the master in command on its last fatal voyage from England to the US eastcoast, down to Florida and back touching Norfolk Virginia as last port and thereafter went down with all aboard her in a heavy full gale and with broken rudderchain and broken hatchcovers. The last SOS radio signals came from position of the New England Seamount Chain, some 500 miles off the US eastcoast where the Atlantic is 5000m deep. No survivers, not a trace was ever found. This type of ship was a mere cargo steamer of 5600 tons, which may have been able to accommodate 2-3 passengers, midships. The Heinrich Kayser was capable of cruising at max. of 12 knots with her twin-boiler arrangement in tandem setup, and having appr. 20 firemen (stokers and heaters), working in shifts to keep the boilers at pressure accordingly.
I built this model, which is already completed to date, after a shipyard overview plan in honor to my grandfather and all its 43 souls crew and three passengers.
It is only a couple of weeks ago that per incidence, and 91 years after that foundering, on a raised web forum thread I was able to take up contact with an american lady, who`s great grandmother as well as her great aunt have been on board the Heinrich Kayser at that time and lost their lives as passengers way back in 1922
The build log shall comprise probably 21 individual parts due to limit of pics per post, and shall document all building sequences in pictures. Comments, questions, etc. shall be welcome and answered along with the build log as it grows.
The model took me appr. 1800 manhours to build over 2 years including the search for a plan, new modeling techniques like metal- plating /”riveting”, soldering, glass-case making, all trials, etc.
The fully completed model can be viewed in my album (steamship Heinrich Kayser) under topic : Gallery of completed scratch built models
Have fun and enjoy whilst studying this oldtimer steamer of 1898 in its buildup
 
Nils
 
Here it Begins.....
 
Build log part1
 

this is one of the ship under its birthname "Elbing"
 

this is one of the very last Pictures of the Heinrich Kayser
 

overview plan frontsection
 

overview plan aftsection
 

stringers and single-layer planking in pine
 

 

 

planking under way, propshaft built in
 

Frame plan, self drawn, not included in overview plan
 

planking nearly completed
 
 
 
Part 2 to follow....

I'm back from my trip, so I have continued some work with this boat. Over the weekend, I completed the standing rigging.
 
I have seized shrouds many times in the past, but I have never been satisfied with the results. This is the theory:
 

 
So how do you do that in miniature scale on a ship model? The answer is to use crocodile clips, like this:
 

 

 
If you can't see what's happening, I have created a series of diagrams that show how the seizing is accomplished. The text and pictures are self-explanatory.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
This is the result:
 

 
I also added an eye bolt for the mainmast stay. Mackay's plans indicate that this was present, but did not indicate where it was attached - so I took a guess.
 

 
The boat as of tonight:
 

 

 
Next I should tackle the spars and sails, but I am thinking of buying a cheap sewing machine to help me make the sails. The sails are therefore on hold until I do a bit of research and learn how to sew on spare cloth. Neither can I attempt making the oars, because I want to reserve that for when my new lathe arrives. I suppose i'll just make the toolbox and a few other little accessories while I wait.
 
It also appears that I have run out of rigging thread. Let's hope that my local hobby shop stocks the same thread used by Model Shipways.

Finally, I got around to finalize the structures and most of the details on the fore deck. There are still some touching up to do, final painting of the barrels for instance, but I feel I have done enough to shoot some pictures.
 
Thanks for looking in, please enjoy.
/Alfons
 

I would redraw the plans.  Rotate the profile drawing so the water lines are horizontal then when you draw the sections the water line on them will be straight.
 
Bob

I couldn't agree more.
 
Bob