captainbob

Words fail me so I just click   "Like This".
 
Bob

Dave, thanks for the tip regarding the hoop and pegs.
 
Bob, I am pleased that you are following along. I did look at the windings on a couple of very small motors today both were a larger Diameter than the telephone coil wire, which is .0028"
 
Early this morning while reaching for a piece of wire I caught the top of the mast and snapped about 1/4 inch off, so I had to make a new mast. I decided to use some of the Lilac so stripped off a 1/16 x 1/16th square of it, then filed it round in the new mini dowel filing jig.
 

 
next is a shot of the telephone coils
 

 
And a close up of the wire with the thread coating.
 

 
I needed to make a modification to the filing jig so that I could also use it as a drilling jig, to that end I added an adjustable saddle for the pin vice with an elevating screw to counteract the taper on the mast or other spars. there is also a second V groove for the initial shaping. for the shaping of the mast I made a couple of paddle sanding sticks so that the taper was even they are 400 and 600
 

 
Drilling the .008' holes was a bit nerve wracking, I pushed the mast down onto the v groove which stopped it from rotating while I drilled the hole with a watchmaking pivot drill in another pin vice.
 
the next picture shows the .0028 wire through the hole at the top of the new mast the diameter at the top is .030 which is a bit heavy but looks OK.
 

 
the next picture shows filing down the shoulder on the mast to fit the hole in the deck. I really like the way this new jig works.
 

 
The next **** shows the goosneck fixed into the mast the wire is 36 gauge wrapped around some .011 hard wire then closed up a little more with a couple of pairs of pliers.
 

 
the next two show the current state of the build, with the old mast being salvaged and being used as the bowsprit.  I am going to take a break from the micro it is hard on my nerves, and get back to the Bristol cutter for a bit.
 

 
 

 
Michael
 

Center boards can be tricky but it looks like you got it.  Well done.
 
Bob

.0014" !   You should hire a spider it would have been easier.  Pluse he could tie the knots.
 
Bob

When I was into RC, I used to worry about getting epoxy into all the cracks and crevices, then I read about mixing the epoxy 30% with alcohol.  It thins out the epoxy and lets it get into the wood.  I’ve even used a 50% mix with no change to the epoxy after the alcohol evaporates and no change in cure time.  I always epoxied both inside and out, usually with glass on the outside.  Instead of glass some of the modelers used their wife’s old nylons.  They seemed to work fine and were easier to mold to the hull.
 
Bob

When I was into RC, I used to worry about getting epoxy into all the cracks and crevices, then I read about mixing the epoxy 30% with alcohol.  It thins out the epoxy and lets it get into the wood.  I’ve even used a 50% mix with no change to the epoxy after the alcohol evaporates and no change in cure time.  I always epoxied both inside and out, usually with glass on the outside.  Instead of glass some of the modelers used their wife’s old nylons.  They seemed to work fine and were easier to mold to the hull.
 
Bob

Looking good, Pete.  You'll have a boat before you know it.
 
Bob

This Morning I thought about doing some detail to the cockpit of keel 2 . My Wife started calling it the "Blue Boat" a few days ago  its starting to catch on  (with me anyway)I wanted to add detail under the cockpit floor as well as enclosing the bench seats, after that I went for the fish wells . on Keel 1 I did get the railings stained and made a temp boom rest. Here are the Results

So I added the whistle and "steam blowdown muffler" to my funnel assembly. Except for some cleaning up and painting here it is:
 

I arrived at a higher plateau with the ladder dilemma.   I finally think I have them in correct proportion.  I made the first ones.....the rungs were too thick,  so I made another pair.
 

 
there was another aspect that I didn't see till later.....they were also too wide.   they spanned the whole gap of the gun port lids.  I needed to narrow them down.   so I made a third pair.....but they came out pretty much the same way.  I didn't do them the same way either,  changing the rung count.....adding,  when I should have been subtracting.  the fourth set is the charm....they are narrower and the rung count has been reduced to 14
 

 
now I can clean them up and stain them,  so I can continue with what I was doing  

Great perseverance to get a better result, Popeye!
 
John

Next thing we'll be seeing is a little conveyer belt to carry them along the production line!
 
John

Hey Popeye
I'd try ACME ladder co. 
They have always provided top notch hardware to Wiley Coyote. Just don't get the exploding version.
 
Isn't it just always something though, seriously. Fix one thing and 2 more things pop up. Luckily that helps us get our moneys worth out of building. More time means less $/hour cost. Unless your using up materials, but as you stated the ladder supplies were raided from the scrape wood box.

Today on Keel 1 I installed the fairleads , I then Started making the cleats, Blocks Oar Locks, I then decided to go with 1/8" X 1/8" Basswood for the rub raill , I then rounded it off along with the toe rail and fair leads. Next it will get Stained. Here are the results

I'm pulling up a chair to watch.  I've always liked the Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 ftr.
 
Bob

Thanks Ben and Grant.
 
Hi Mike, It is fun and a bit scary. The plans are great but there are no instructions
so it’s just flip through the pages of plans and hope my interpretation is correct.  

it is amazing how the rigging changed .......through wars and capturing enemy ships.....and even venturing and studying cultures.  one might think perhaps,  that this was an early form of camo.......a British sailor looking through a spyglass,  might see her rigged as a British ship,  and make the fatal mistake.  this being my first wooden sailing ship......I'm finding it a whole lot different than plastic.  but I'm armed with a slew of pictures of the actual ship,  one of the best ways to see how a ship is rigged.   sounds like your in for a fun project......the ornamentation alone will boggle your mind.   I'm sure you'll have a good time with it.....you'll have to let me know when you begin.....definite must see!    do be careful with the multiple build bug......they replicate like crazy!!!!
 
hey there Mobbsie........no problem about the ladders.  the original ones are 11 rung.......I'll have to add some at this new thickness......not a problem.   I did notice one problem......I finished my latest update,  and I looked over at the Goth to see that I had missed the mark.   just above the gun port lids,  there is a slight gap in the second planking,  and you can see the underlying planking.    looking at the above pictures,  you can barely make it out........but I saw it......in spades!  I ripped them all out and redid them.
 

 
now they all look like this.......touching the lids,  and not up against the rail above it.   with a little more work,  I can get to the main shrouds.........and then I can get to that 'fun' that your talking about

Tonight was a good night, I was able to get a couple more hours work in on the Atlantic hull. She's finally beginning to take shape and look like a schooner!
 
Cheers,
Tim
 

 

 

 

 

 

I did some more work on the rigging (the foot ropes are out of scale but I couldn't get them any smaller) the topmast shrouds are complete the lower shrouds will be attached to the hull and have long strings that will be threaded through a hole drilled in the top of the mast when I install the mast I will pull the strings to tighten up the shrouds.
 






 
Lextin.

I haven't got much work done around Turkeyday but I was able to make the lower gundeck cannons and the mast. The mast is made from a bamboo skewer the topmast and topgallant mast are made from bamboo toothpicks the yards are also toothpicks.
 






 
Lextin.

I use them to calculate the widths of hull planking. Set the knob at say 5, and the width of the points at the small end will be 1/5 the width between the points at the long end.
 
So, for instance, I can measure a space for 5 hull planks with the points at the long end and then flip the divider to the short end to get the width of each plank within that 5 plank band at each frame.
 
Russ

Today on Keel 1,I got started by doing all the small touch up work. I then decided to paint a blue water line on Keel 2 ( I could not get it to work on Keel 1 ) it worked out on this one. I then removed the deck over the fish wells to gain access to the bilge( I may float this one) Here are the results

Actually the differing methods of rigging by country I'm finding interesting.
I'm considering my first POF scratch build and am considering the French Xebec La Requin. The huge differences in her deck construction as well as its differences in rigging I find intriguing.
 
As I study rigging, I'm also finding the changes that occurred in rigging with history and its R&D very interesting. I love the lanteen sail setup of La Requin but was reading that later in life it was switched out for square rigging. The many subtle differences within all the ships we build is why I love this hobby. I always told my students I chose science because you can never know everything about it, therefore you always have more to learn. I chose ship building as it offers the same.
 
Before I started the rigging on the DSotM I decided to work in something else as a side project I've wanted to start for a while. Guess the multiple build bug has finally struck. Although this ones very small.

hello there Keith!........nice you want to follow,  but you need to keep in mind that this is a Swedish ship.........the rigging may be somewhat different.   the terminology might be a little different as well......just watch other folks who are doing ships like your Swift.   too bad about Randy......don't know what happened to him.  he was all over the news for a while there.......now he's probably sitting in a Canadian jail,  all because of that crazy woman he hooked up with     I got the Movie from a company Christmas party.....Yankee Swap......it's a staple in our house too........right along with Scrooged :D
 
 
yea......Dr. Dafi's correct Ferit........just something I overlooked.  I've stripped out some 1/32 flat stock from my junk bin..........a tiny bit more narrow,  and I'll use some thinner rope.   I'll just save these two for something else.
 

 
 
I don't need them right now......so this will give me time to make new ones.  in the meantime,  I did as I was going to do.....cut some of the anchor ropes and make the gaskets for the gun port lids.  I also painted the railings and cemented them in place........I'm happy with how they came out.
 

 

 

 

 
the last thing I got to do before we took off to get the tree,  was the eye bolts for the lids.
 

 
I'll see what I get  'roped'  into today 

Thanks Anthony!
 
Here is the promised update.

Success! I was able to keep the side pieces in place and then attach the
corner pieces, the correct term is angled bulkhead, but I like corner better.
The biggest problem after getting the length right was using enough glue
to hold the sides together but not gluing the sides to the beams.
 

 

 
Once the glue had set marked the placement of the angled carlings I carefully
removed the assembly. I the placed the angled carlings sanded it down and
then permanently glued the pit assembly in place.
 

 

 

 
 
The deck was sanded smooth and I applied wipe on poly to the side (starboard)
that will not be planked.