albert

As close as the frames are, how will you remove the pins holding the spalls?
 
Bob

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Hi Mark, very nice work.

Greg, thanks for the tip on fairing.  I am with you here. 
 
Albert,  thanks for the kind words.  I love your Naiad.  The wood tones are beautiful and fit of your timbers is inspiring.
 
Others - thanks for all the likes! 
 
I will post more on Monday.  I am trying to post weekly on Monday.  Having structure like that is a benefit to me.
 
Now for those of you who are contemplating a first scratch build - I strongly encourage it.  There are so many great practicums out there, including this one on Naiad.  The end results are very fulfilling.  If I can do it, then almost anyone with can - trust me here!
 
Best, Gary

Hi Ed fantastic work.

Hi Mark, very nice work.

Nice rudder Mark.

Beautiful work Gaetan.

Hi Mark, very nice work.

Beautiful work Gaetan.

Hi Mark, very nice work.

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Hi Mark, very nice work.

Nice rudder Mark.

Phase 1 completed: bricklaying.  

Nice rudder Mark.

Nice rudder Mark.

Nice rudder Mark.

Update....
 
Rudder temporarily installed (the blue tape keeps it from falling off).  I'll hit the hull with some Wipe-on-Poly and start working on the rudder coat.  
 

Part 9 – Finishing the Frames
 
Although the actual construction of the frame is completed, there are still a few things that need to be done before the frame can be erected on the keel.
 
The glueing of the two frames together and the wetting of the frames will have caused some of the holes to be clogged with glue, or for the wood to have swollen and caused them to close.  A drill bit in a pin vise is used to open the holes back up.  Also, the wetting of the frame to remove the paper and glue will have raised the grain, causing the surface to appear rough.
 
The frames are re-sanded with a 220 grit sanding stick, and then a buffing pad used for manicures is used to ‘polish’ the frames.
 
                        
 
The height of the frame was not finished sanded, since two frames would be sistered and the height of the two frames together should be consistent.  I made a small ‘gauge’ for marking the final height of the frames.  This is simply the top of the frame drawing glued to a small piece of hardwood and sanded to the proper line.  This gauge is pinned to both port and starboard sides of the frameset, and a pencil line is marked on the frameset.  The frameset is then sanded to these lines for the final height.
 
                        
 
                        
 
Every even-numbered frame needs two bulwark stanchions added.  These are made as separate drawings and glued to a piece of 7/64 stock.
 
                        
 
 
                        
 
The stanchions are then pinned and glued to the frameset.
 
                        
 
The holes that were used for pinning are placed in the locations where bolts would have been used to secure all of the frame components.  To simulate these bolts I used 40 pound test black monofilament.
 
The ‘bolt’ is dipped in medium viscosity CA glue and inserted into the hole.
 
                        
 
Then a razor blade is used to trim the monofilament flush with the face of the frame.
 
                        
 
Acetone is applied with a ‘scrub brush’ to remove any CA that stayed on the surface.  (The ‘scrub brush’ is actually an old artist’s brush with the fibers cut back to make a short stiff brush.)
 
                        
 
The fore and aft faces of the frameset need to be finished, since there won’t be enough room after installation to reach these faces.  I decided to use a water-based poly product from Minwax called Polycrylic.  The one I chose gives a clear matte finish.  On my previous build I experimented with several different finishes and found that this product preserves the color of the madrone while the others darkened it considerably.  I also like the fact that it’s a brush-on finish and it’s easy to clean up with water.
 
                       
 
 
The preparation of the frames is completed
 
                        
 
                        
 
Now it’s time to start installing the frames on the keel, which will be the subject of the next post.
 
Again, thanks everyone for the ‘likes’ and for following this build.
 
 

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Nils, Cap. Poison, David B, thank you.

Hi Tim great start.

Nils, Cap. Poison, David B, thank you.

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