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Bill Hudson

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Everything posted by Bill Hudson

  1. A break away from the ship momently. Trying to airbrush has been a problem. Only had a very noisy compressor out in the garage. It is not at all compatible in my little shop off the dining room. I looked on the internet and found several about 4"x4"I was reluctant to order from the unknown source but discovered a similar on in the Micro-Mark catalog that is rated at 25psi. . I ordered it but the hose connections do not fit my Passche airbrush. I contacted the MM tech department and got Dave. He sent me an adapter free of charge which works. Has a nice flow of air although I haven't tried any paint through it.
  2. When I installed the walnut trim for the gunnel I came up a tiny bit short at the fantail. I thought I could fake it but as the little sign says….
  3. Still at it. Progress slow yet. This time I added walnut gunnel trim. Nothing like photos to show the screwups. Eventually it will clean up nicely. Looking ahead; what do I do for blocks? I have not calculated it out but at best guess 1/16" diameter on average. Same for cannon balls. Probably next stepwise to primer the hull to protect it from damage. Bill
  4. I use >020 brass wire in a spool. Unwind the length you need and clamp one end in a vise and pull the pull the other end with pliers stretching it out some. It will straighten and harden the wire at the same time. Bill
  5. Still going. Thank you all for the feedback and suggestions for hull and painting. Despite the setbacks of age and tremors I have decided not to give up just because my work now is not any near what it used to be. Ths model keeps my active an d helps me mentally. I have built a hatch. I used fine strips painted black on sides as I would for decking. Nothing like photograph to shoe you al the flaws however I think that once i finish with ll the deck furniture I can give it final primer and fine sanding. Thank you ll for your indulgence and good feed back. Bill
  6. Thanks Phil, No gun ports just one swivel gun in center of deck. Will probably do black hull, white gun'l. Not sure what for copper. I may be able to find some copper leaf. Bill
  7. I turned 92 last month and My hands are quite shaky but I have not given up, it is still on my workbench. I have done some minor work recently. Am fitting the rudder next. Question: would the cutter have copper on hull back then? What might have been an upper hull color?
  8. I ran across an add where one was used to decorate a cake. It looked easy, no contortions of fingers. Was somewhat noisy though. I was watching a U tube segment when it came up as An add.
  9. Yes I have. I have found them not to be a dependable source for airbrush as the pressure is not constant even with a regulator. I have used Co2 with a regulator for years but found it damages the ozone layer.
  10. Bob I agree with you about being awkward to hold and operate. Best I can tell is that you would need to hold the brush at 45º or so sideways in your hand to put the finger in a position to operate the trigger. Sorry about your peripheral neuropathy. I have been fighting that for many years and at times I have thought of using it as an excuse to quit modeling. But modeling is so much a part of me that I can't give it up even though I am now pushing 92 years of age. Hang in there and keep your mind on the project rather the pain. You can do it. As for the self contained airbrush I can not see ant advantage. I do not have room in my tiny studio for a noisy compressor and air brush but there are some very small compressors for limited use time. Presently I am using CO2. Not the best environmentally.
  11. I only posted this to see if any one has used one. There are several type of similar design. Several have onboard compressors. As far as precision is concerned; there are many people out there who can do some of the finest work with crude equipment. It is all about the talent.
  12. I hav noticed that many projects posted here have the bulwarks and gunports painted red. What is that all about?
  13. Still very slow progress. Eventually the cabin will be let into the deck.
  14. If it is or contains lead, after time it will darken. Pewter will also darken over time but will still be some what silver-gray in color.
  15. Lead is no longer legal. When I was casting metal O scale kits the metal at that time did contain lead. When I saw the writing on the wall I changed to Pewter. It is a little stiffer but still bendable. I would suggest using support while bending it like bending over a round object. If it is zinc, as some one suggested, it can still be bent this little bit. I doubt it is zinc. That is a whole different casting method and more expensive than Pewter.
  16. How many here use dust masks while sanding and respirators when paint spraying? Bill Hudson
  17. Thanks Denis, This ship model is just a fun project to bide some time. I am using any kind of scrap from my bin that will work. Although am using traditional methods for building a sandwich hull, nothing unique. Before you start whacking away at a chunk of wood I suggest you do some research on carving a solid wood hull. Also use an easy carving wood. Several of Blue Jacket kits (several builds posted here) are solid wood hulls. They come simi preformed and you will have do the finish carving. I suggest that would be a good place for you to start.
  18. A little progress although slow going. I cut the deck boards from 1/64"thick model plywood. Because the veneer is so thin I had to be cautious of sanding through it. What looks like uneven decking boards on the fantail are just differences on the absorbs of the stain each board. I feel once the transom and braces are in place plus the tiller it will not be so obvious.
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