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jud

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Posts posted by jud

  1. Only way I can see to do it is to use sheet brass well annealed and just long enough to match the ID wanted and wide enough plus a little of the OD of the channel, form it and leave it on the inside forming tool. Then tightly wrap a wire the diameter matching the ID of the channel and peen the flat ring over that tight wire from both sides. probably need to fabricate a jig and  turn the ring in the jig at least once. Only way I know that you can stretch metal into the shape shown in your sketch. Or make it from a rod on a lathe.

    jud

  2. Were I going to scale up part of a smaller circle, I would drop a vertical line down from the radius point. that would act as a reference line to center the expanded segment, you can always get a circle to intersect two points if the circle is large enough but that alone will not result in symmetrical appearance between two fixed points on your plans, That vertical line may be handy to have available to fine tune the horizontal position of your enlarged curve.

    jud

  3. Have been looking at various rope walks and how they were traditionally constructed and used. I have the room so my preference is to build one with a swivel on the tail stock and use a topper to control the final twist. A two way motor with a long cable control switch box would be handy to increase or decrease the thread twist as the rope was forming, just a short distance should be enough to fine tune the initial twist. Ropes were formed from the tail stock behind the topper on those types of rope walks, they do require a long narrow space.

    jud

     

    PS: kind of interesting to read about the different ways ropes were made for different uses such as the shroud lay, 4 threads formed over a core. That center core would require provisions on both ends for it to be at center and not be twisted while forming the rope, A small wire core, might eliminate sagging rigging.

  4. Jerry C, from what I have read, beeswax does not directly have a negative impact on your rigging or other parts in a ventilated space. The problem develops over time when the models were kept in a closed viewing case. The study done to determine what was happening indicated that wax was producing a caustic gas that remained in the closed environment of the viewing case. Don't think it was determine as to the whys of the wax breakdown in the first place, the breaking down of the wax may also be caused by the closed environment and the wax reaction to aging wood. Don't believe beeswax, used on the rigging creates much of a risk to your models, If you case them, just provide ventilation and  that should be all that is needed.  Don't think that the damage to the cased models  happened in the modelers lifetime, it took much longer.

    jud

  5. Q A's, I did see those posts, think it was a post, maybe on another site, about the breaking down of rigging of old cased museum models that was blaming the deteriorating beeswax  producing a caustic gas in a closed environment, a good argument was made supporting that opinion. Beeswax has been used for years to protect and seal leather stitching with no adverse effects, but saddles and other leather goods are seldom sealed in an airtight viewing case. The post about why museum models were deteriorating, was the reason I have asked about ventilation for cases several times On MSW, few seem to consider it necessary, they may be right.

    jud

  6. How about a small dowel, one end reshaped so there is a small flat surface then treated with some adhesive that drys to a consistency of the sticky side of tape. Use it to pick up those tiny pieces and to place them where they were intended to be. Could use another similar but untreated dowel, or maybe a dental tool,  to release the part once correctly placed. Would need to do some research and testing to find out what adhesive would work best.

    jud

  7. When sewing leather I just run the thread over a beeswax block and sew, usually with an awl using a two needle lock stitch. When I sew sheep skin to the skirting, I run the thread over the beeswax block as usual, put a loop in one end and place over a sturdy hook. Then the canvas pad comes out that I made from some canvas I keep around and use it to burnish the thread until the thread is hot and slick, by then most of the beeswax will have been drawn into the hot thread, binding the thread fibers together resulting in a thread that will pass through wool with little problem because it will not pick up the wool fibers and create a mess of knotted fibers, old time method used to sew sheepskin, it works.

    Could the method be adapted to ship modeling, think it would work well with standing rigging.

    jud

     

    Responded to this, forgetting I had already done so a month ago, sorry for the repeat.

  8. Muriatic acid is a good cleaner for brass, have used it to clean up radiator cores and tanks when re-soldering the tubes, both top and bottom, bought the acid by the quart and used a portable grinder with a wire wheel to remove the old solder, washed it with the acid and then re-soldered without further cleaning or touching. Did that several times on old Caterpillar RD 6 radiators when I was farming, had three of the old darlings, always had one that was running when needed. Late 30's Cats and could buy them at scrap iron prices then, no more, they are collectibles today.

    jud..

  9.  White metal castings do not need a centrifugal casting machine nor does brass or iron. Metal has been cast for century's before that machine came along. Sand Molds or many other types of material can be used as long as the material holds it shape and withstands the heat of the pore. You can even get a casting, if you are tough enough, by using your hand as a mold and pore into it, Like many molds that, hand mold would be for  one time use only and the quality of that casting would  probably not duplicate faithfully  the shape of the mold at the beginning of the pore. . ;)

    jud

  10. I would expect those hammocks to have been covered by a form fitting wax and oil treated canvas cover, "tarp", to protect them from the weather, sea water and salt. A tightly rolled canvas with a blanket and extra clothing getting wet would immediately start to mold, rot and create heat. Those sailors didn't do well with wet, moldy beds any better than any of us would.

    jud

  11. The mines used were made by people who knew what they were doing and what was needed to lay them safely. Most had a one hour delay before they were armed, giving the mine laying vessel time to clear the area. Some could be set for delays much longer if needed. Most were designed to disarm themselves if their mooring cable was broken and the mine floated to the surface, don't think anyone trusted that safety device and sunk floaters with rifle fire.

    jud

  12. Brass and iron both require very high temperatures to be able to pore into a mold. That temperature is so high that you don't want to be creating it in your home, that alone prevents its use in most hobbyist levels, unless the hobby is casting those metals and the proper knowledge, location and tools are on site.

    If you create the molds and can find a local foundry, you are in luck. Many colleges that have an art department teach casting in bronze, usually they will work with you, might need to take a class, check it out.

    jud

  13. Wayne, had those numbers ready to post and talked myself out of it. What you posted is correct and when dealing with large numbers of feet like State Plane Coordinates the minute difference between exactly and 10 digits does have a effect on where you find yourself in a rectangular grid. Oregon uses the International Foot, our neighbors use the US Survey foot when dealing with the State Plane Coordinate System as do most States. Need to know what definition you are working with across a state wide grid. The differences  produce undetectable differences in the model ship world.

    jud

  14. I  have wondered about the use of chain slings when rigged for battle myself. I have suspected that the chains that were rigged were basically safety chains that were limited to that role only. In that role the normal rigging would remain in use and in place with the chains used to catch the yard in the event of damage to the supporting rigging. Nothing but an opinion about what I would use them for were it me making the decisions. Add safety while not changing the familiar and working rigging, those chains were probably not rigged because of their weight high in the rigging without good reason.

    Hope someone will provide some documented information about the use of chains.

    jud

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