jud

About half the time that I use a clove hitch, I can tie it and throw it over the end of something, or to make a temporary halter from a rope by twisting the large loops around each other once and adjusting to fit, a half hitch once on will keep it in place if you expect a storm. learned that from an old cowboy when I was a kid and he had me tying the clove hitch using two hands without using the ends of the rope. Lay the rope over your right hand holding with your thumb, palm up. Left hand, palm down, thumb pointing away from the body, holding the rope so it runs under the left thumb straight out to the right through the right hand. Now twist both hands counter clock wise and lay the loops together and you have a clove hitch, The crossings will be down, but playing with the constrictor knot discovered that you can turn the crossings of the clove hitch up, then tuck the end coming out to the right under the inside loop, closest to the body clove hitch loop, and turn it into a constrictor. Once the movements become automatic in taking a hold of the rope so you can twist counter clock wise, tying the clove hitch and the constrictor can be done quickly. Now I need to find a way to tie the constrictor around  a pole or ring.
jud

About half the time that I use a clove hitch, I can tie it and throw it over the end of something, or to make a temporary halter from a rope by twisting the large loops around each other once and adjusting to fit, a half hitch once on will keep it in place if you expect a storm. learned that from an old cowboy when I was a kid and he had me tying the clove hitch using two hands without using the ends of the rope. Lay the rope over your right hand holding with your thumb, palm up. Left hand, palm down, thumb pointing away from the body, holding the rope so it runs under the left thumb straight out to the right through the right hand. Now twist both hands counter clock wise and lay the loops together and you have a clove hitch, The crossings will be down, but playing with the constrictor knot discovered that you can turn the crossings of the clove hitch up, then tuck the end coming out to the right under the inside loop, closest to the body clove hitch loop, and turn it into a constrictor. Once the movements become automatic in taking a hold of the rope so you can twist counter clock wise, tying the clove hitch and the constrictor can be done quickly. Now I need to find a way to tie the constrictor around  a pole or ring.
jud

I have used the cow-hitch in smaller scales, as it represents the sewing without really having to do it - not that I am lazy, but it can be near-impossible to find a thin enough thread for the sewing.

With regard to dafi's post above two opposite forces act on a submerged object. Gravity equal to the open air weight of the object is pulling it down. Buoyancy equal to the weight of the the water displaced by the object is pushing up. The force on the anchor cable is therefore equal to the net of these two forces.
 
If water is one seventh as dense as wrought iron, then the force on the anchor cable after being broken out is 6/7 not 1/7 of the anchor's weight.
 
Roger Pellett

I just want to say thank you Pat in post #122 for accurately understanding and explaining my position better than I am capable of, and for your well thought answer to my initial question. Also I'd like to thank everyone who contributed their time and input or who has taken an interest in my question. This topic has raised some good points and other questions, such as why the tiller was so long. Unfortunately I don't have the energy or the health to pursue these questions any further in this discussion.
 
My presence is now required in the shipyard and else where so thanks again everyone.
 
Cheers Dashi

Besides tilting the hawse holes down and lining them, the French sometimes put rollers under the lip of the holes. Most often in larger ships, but frigates got them as well. Bolsters (bull noses) were common if they didn't use rollers.
 

 
Ciao. John

Thanks Dave. Your build is looking good too.
 
Update: Plugged old stanchion holes and dremeled new ones to match 1768 as fitted draught. After fitting the fore rails the yard boss noticed some of the holes were in the wrong places so remeasured and very carefully re filled and dremeled. Stripped back the supposed 'tiller support' to bring it to what I think might be more acceptable for Cooks New Zealand 1770 jury rig. Not sure if the armourers could have forged an iron runner so at this stage have left it off. I'm also not sure whether the tiller braces that it replaced would have been kept on or removed. Logic tells me they would have been taken off as they might interfere with the sweep and cause the tiller to jamb. I'm still thinking on that. One thing I'm reasonably sure of is that Cook wouldn't have sailed until he was certain it would last the rest of the voyage through uncharted waters.
 
Painted rails and dry fitted everything to see how it looks.
 
Cheers Dashi

Thanks to all who have contributed to this discussion !  I have learned a couple things not previously known to me.  That learning experience is one of the hallmarks of this site.  Both seasoned builders and novices contribute to the site.  Keeps me coming back sometimes multiple times in a day, just to see what I might have missed.
 
Tom

Waterway worries
 
Panama Canal expansion brings about new challenges for pilots, tug operators
- See more at: http://digitaledition.chicagotribune.com/tribune/article_popover.aspx?guid=2fb0c10a-05e0-48e0-9597-8cb124a65d8f#sthash.tZLKjblD.dpuf
By Juan Zamorano and Peter Orsi
Associated Press
ON LAKE MIRAFLORES, Panama — Waiting to guide a cargo carrier toward the Panama Canal's southern locks, Benjamin Russo gazed from his tugboat at another vessel headed north toward the Caribbean Sea.
At 650 feet long and loaded with automobiles, it was a massive ship. Yet, it pales in comparison to the so-called New Panamax behemoths, up to 1,200 feet in length, which within days will begin transiting the waterway. 
I remember watching a special about Pilots being helicoptered to large freighters near the mouth of the Columbia River and this sounds ust as dangerous.
David B
 
 

Good source Dashi. For modern fiber rope I cut and pasted the following from page 38;
A B C D SECTION C : ROPE HANDLING/USAGE PAGE 38 BENDING RADIUS SIzING THE RADIUS OF BITTS, F AIRLEADS, AND CHOCKS Any sharp bend in a rope under load decreases its strength and may cause premature damage or failure. In sizing the radius of bitts, fairleads, sheaves, and chocks for best performance, the following guidelines are offered: Where a rope is deflected more than 10 degrees around a surface (i.e., bitts or chocks), the effective diameter of that surface should not be less than three times the diameter of the rope. Stated another way, the diameter of the surface should be at least three times the rope diameter. Even larger diameters would be better yet because the durability of the rope increases substantially as the diameter of the surface over which it is worked increases. The ratio of the length of an eye splice to the diameter of the object over which the eye is to be placed (for example, bollard, bitt, cleat, etc.) should be a minimum 3:1 relationship (larger is always preferred to improve durability). By using this ratio the angle of the two legs of the eye at its throat will not be so severe as to cause a parting or tearing action at this point (thimbles are normally designed with a 3:1 ratio).   So a modern 4" diameter cable, ( 2r π; [ 2 + 2 x π = 12.6" cable ] ),  should be lead around a minimum of 1 foot diameter lead, but the larger the better. Makes sense to me, the ratio would probably be double with vintage fiber cable. Reason for my discomfort with the accepted description of raising an anchor, there is more to the story.

No Wayne, I am not suggesting that at all. I am wondering how the sharp bends in the anchor cable were avoided or eliminated when the up and down part of the cable recovery was being done. So far, I have seen only some small gains in reducing the bending problem suggested, I think we are moving in the right direction though. Tilting the hawse down, lining it with lead and greasing it would aid in reducing the brake effect of a bend in the cable entering the hawse and help prevent damage to the hawze itself. Bolsters would help a little, they would contribute a lot in avoiding a sharp bend in the cable if they were used to help hold in place, some sort of temporary radius placed over them to ease the angle where the up and down cable was entering the hawse, that could be a viable solution. As far as using the cat for a vertical lift, those sailors were well able to use lashings to attach the lower block to the cable and then lift to the two block position, then stoppers could hold the cable while the lower block was re positioned on the anchor cable for another lift, not the most efficient method but well withing the capabilities of the the seamen and the cat gear. Doing it that way would produce a large slack bow in the anchor cable that could be pulled inboard through the hawse hole as the anchor was lifted. Maybe the answer was hidden in the gear stored below in the Constitution that no one could identify, or figure out what it was used for and had it all removed from the ship some time ago. We should all accept the fact that the seaman of old did everything within their abilities to prevent unnecessary damage to ship and gear. Hauling a cable under tension around a sharp angle would be something they avoided, even if the writings do not explain how. I see lots of critical parts left out of the written descriptions of gun handling so I expect to see such oversights in other writings preserved from the past, just because it is not covered in writings yet discovered, a problem existed then as it does today with pulling lines around sharp bends.
jud

No Wayne, I am not suggesting that at all. I am wondering how the sharp bends in the anchor cable were avoided or eliminated when the up and down part of the cable recovery was being done. So far, I have seen only some small gains in reducing the bending problem suggested, I think we are moving in the right direction though. Tilting the hawse down, lining it with lead and greasing it would aid in reducing the brake effect of a bend in the cable entering the hawse and help prevent damage to the hawze itself. Bolsters would help a little, they would contribute a lot in avoiding a sharp bend in the cable if they were used to help hold in place, some sort of temporary radius placed over them to ease the angle where the up and down cable was entering the hawse, that could be a viable solution. As far as using the cat for a vertical lift, those sailors were well able to use lashings to attach the lower block to the cable and then lift to the two block position, then stoppers could hold the cable while the lower block was re positioned on the anchor cable for another lift, not the most efficient method but well withing the capabilities of the the seamen and the cat gear. Doing it that way would produce a large slack bow in the anchor cable that could be pulled inboard through the hawse hole as the anchor was lifted. Maybe the answer was hidden in the gear stored below in the Constitution that no one could identify, or figure out what it was used for and had it all removed from the ship some time ago. We should all accept the fact that the seaman of old did everything within their abilities to prevent unnecessary damage to ship and gear. Hauling a cable under tension around a sharp angle would be something they avoided, even if the writings do not explain how. I see lots of critical parts left out of the written descriptions of gun handling so I expect to see such oversights in other writings preserved from the past, just because it is not covered in writings yet discovered, a problem existed then as it does today with pulling lines around sharp bends.
jud

Good source Dashi. For modern fiber rope I cut and pasted the following from page 38;
A B C D SECTION C : ROPE HANDLING/USAGE PAGE 38 BENDING RADIUS SIzING THE RADIUS OF BITTS, F AIRLEADS, AND CHOCKS Any sharp bend in a rope under load decreases its strength and may cause premature damage or failure. In sizing the radius of bitts, fairleads, sheaves, and chocks for best performance, the following guidelines are offered: Where a rope is deflected more than 10 degrees around a surface (i.e., bitts or chocks), the effective diameter of that surface should not be less than three times the diameter of the rope. Stated another way, the diameter of the surface should be at least three times the rope diameter. Even larger diameters would be better yet because the durability of the rope increases substantially as the diameter of the surface over which it is worked increases. The ratio of the length of an eye splice to the diameter of the object over which the eye is to be placed (for example, bollard, bitt, cleat, etc.) should be a minimum 3:1 relationship (larger is always preferred to improve durability). By using this ratio the angle of the two legs of the eye at its throat will not be so severe as to cause a parting or tearing action at this point (thimbles are normally designed with a 3:1 ratio).   So a modern 4" diameter cable, ( 2r π; [ 2 + 2 x π = 12.6" cable ] ),  should be lead around a minimum of 1 foot diameter lead, but the larger the better. Makes sense to me, the ratio would probably be double with vintage fiber cable. Reason for my discomfort with the accepted description of raising an anchor, there is more to the story.

Jud I don't how relevant this is as it's not a contemporary source, but I recall learning about cordage diameter to bend ratios when I was in the corps. So I've searched and found this in the  'Rope User's Manual', page 38. http://www.samsonrope.com/Documents/Rope_Users_Manual_WEB.pdf. It's not specifically talking about ship hawse, but suggests a minimum bend ratio of 1:3 for bitts fairleads and chocks.
 
Dashi

There is also a bolster fitted below the hawse holes.  Sort of a quarter round moulding to ease the cable around that 90 degree angle.
 
Regards,

Jud,
On the angles... the hawse holes were not typically parallel to the water or decks.  There is an angle downward from inside to outside which seems to have varied depending on country, shipyard, etc.   The hawse holes were also lined with lead to ease on the chaffing and wear and tear on the ship and the cable.  And lastly, somewhere I read that in hoisting the anchor, there was some greasing of the hawse holes/cable... but I'm sure how common that was.  It may have been anecdotal for one incident.  When I remember where I read it, I'll dig it out.

Agree with all that has been noted, the cable let out beyond the depth was and is called the scope and it is there to force the flukes to dig in, bringing the ship over the anchor while hauling in on the cable will lift the stock and pull the flukes free of the bottom. It is from that point that I question and still do, something is missing in the lift, not the hauling in of the scope. Granted, exceptional measures are taken when the anchor is snagged on the bottom and sometimes the cable was cut, not questioning those things, only the everyday lifting of a anchor that is on the bottom ready to begin the vertical lift part of the recovery. When an anchor cable becomes so large it can't be used on the capstan without damaging it, why would a sharp angle on the outboard side of the hawse be OK? Thanks all.
jud

Stoppers could have worked while re positioning the lower block on the cable. Have knocked the keepers off of pelican hooks holding the anchor chain and have been at the capstan when hoisting the anchor, taking in the chain when unshackling from a buoy, taking a strain on  bow lines and even used a capstan once to pull a 40mm gun out of battery. The hawse hole, chocks or blocks were used to lead the chain or lines to prevent sharp angles in all of the above. Have pulled rope around sharp angled corners and know what it does to the rope and if wood, what happens to the angle point on the wood itself, chains usually hang up in such conditions, so my question is based on experience. The hawse holes on the Constitution and ships so rigged would destroy themselves and any cable pulled through them with any strain at a near 90° angle, even a light load would do it, something missing in how the evolution was accomplished. Those old boys went to a lot of trouble to use blocks, bits, guides and fraping gear, to prevent damage to all their running and standing gear, the same care was also needed for the anchor cable and chains, those needs resulted in changes in how the hawse pipes were used to lead the cable, 'chain', out of the ship. Not a light question for me, I see a problem and I wonder how it was addressed. Have thought through how I might do it, but that is not the same as doing it or hearing from someone who actually needed to lift an anchor with that gear and hawse hole configuration. Not worth arguing about, but will continue to wonder how the anchors were lifted, I have a strong suspicion that the whole picture has not been reveled yet.
jud :)

Mark, thanks, I had seen that before and it bothered me then, it is only a solution to taking in the cable when the cable is lead out ahead of the ship, be a good way to move the ship against the wind or current until it was near the anchor. When the cable was up and down, the cable coming outboard of the hawse would bend down 90° when tension was created by the capstan pulling against the anchor that would have been under the bows, creating the up and down position of the cable.  More  modern hawse pipes  that lead the cable outboard from the powered capstan outboard do not allow an angle to develop as a hawse leading horizontally outboard does when the cable is up and down. That cable being pulled around that sharp angle would not only act as a brake but would damage the anchor cable. My question is, what was done to overcome that problem. I suspect that the cat was used to do all of the vertical lifting when recovering the anchor.
jud

Agree with all that has been noted, the cable let out beyond the depth was and is called the scope and it is there to force the flukes to dig in, bringing the ship over the anchor while hauling in on the cable will lift the stock and pull the flukes free of the bottom. It is from that point that I question and still do, something is missing in the lift, not the hauling in of the scope. Granted, exceptional measures are taken when the anchor is snagged on the bottom and sometimes the cable was cut, not questioning those things, only the everyday lifting of a anchor that is on the bottom ready to begin the vertical lift part of the recovery. When an anchor cable becomes so large it can't be used on the capstan without damaging it, why would a sharp angle on the outboard side of the hawse be OK? Thanks all.
jud

Agree with all that has been noted, the cable let out beyond the depth was and is called the scope and it is there to force the flukes to dig in, bringing the ship over the anchor while hauling in on the cable will lift the stock and pull the flukes free of the bottom. It is from that point that I question and still do, something is missing in the lift, not the hauling in of the scope. Granted, exceptional measures are taken when the anchor is snagged on the bottom and sometimes the cable was cut, not questioning those things, only the everyday lifting of a anchor that is on the bottom ready to begin the vertical lift part of the recovery. When an anchor cable becomes so large it can't be used on the capstan without damaging it, why would a sharp angle on the outboard side of the hawse be OK? Thanks all.
jud

Hi Jud
 
I agree that there's a lot of chaffing in the the final meters or feet but I think that would not be much more than the wear
from the cable on the bottom to and fro as the ship keeps swinging. I recall reading somewhere (can't place it right now) that
the part of the cable nearest to the anchor was reinforced to resist chaffing on the bottom, which would also protect the cable in the hawse.
 
 I stand corrected on my thoughts about the force necessary to start the ship moving according the the link bellow, it  seems that
they used "dead slow ahead" too.
 
https://books.google.pt/books?id=4bYoCwAAQBAJ&pg=PA88&lpg=PA88&dq=hms+victory+dimensions+anchor&source=bl&ots=3wfmia38p4&sig=b6wZodd96O1ObvDaZwQ8e2cOiw0&hl=pt-PT&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjfoumRwpvNAhXMiRoKHXNHAJkQ6AEIYjAM#v=onepage&q=hms%20victory%20dimensions%20anchor&f=false
 
pages 89 and 90.
 
On page 91 I would rather say the cable paid out to be three to five times the depht of water depending on the type of bottom
and weather conditions.
 
I would say they were very much aware of the problem you raise, so much that as soon as they could place the hawseholes in a less awkward 
position (as we now have them placed) without compromising the strenght of the bows they did - iron construction.
 
Zeh

It may be worth a read of the process for "Getting up or Weighing an Anchor" published in Steel, D. 1795. Seamanship, Both in Theory and Practice. Printed and published for, and at, Steel’s Navigation-Warehouse, Tower-Hill. docs.lib.noaa.gov/rescue/rarebooks_1600-1800/VK541S81795.PDF. 
 
The description begins on page 154.  It is fairly brief, reflecting the process previously described (raise using the hawser until the anchor is clear the water then catted and fished).  He also describes using additional mechanical means when necessary:
 
When the strain is so great as to require other purchases, the top tackles may be used thus : The double block is lashed to the main-masl or topsail-sheet bits, the treble block is lashed on the cable, and the fall brought to the capstern. If the top-tackle falls are thought insufficient, any hawser may be used that will reeve through the blocks.
 
 

I am not sure if it is relevant to the discussion, but I wanted to point out that it is not the weight of the anchor which secures the ship.  Rather, it is the flukes of the anchor digging into the seabed (or lakebed) that does the work.  The cable is paid out to allow the anchor to lay almost horizontal...the design of the anchor does the rest.
 
When the anchor is set, hauling the anchor in does not bring the anchor to the ship.  It brings the ship to the anchor.  Once the cable is up and down the flukes break free from the bottom and the anchor can be raised.  Sailing or driving the ship to the anchor allows the cable to slacken and puts less strain on the cable.

Hi Keith;
 
I think you will find that in the days of sailing vessels a clove hitch was used where the ratlines crossed the inner shrouds,  but an eye-splice was formed in each end and this was seized to the outermost shrouds.
 
All the best,
 
Mark P