dnputnam

Experiences in photography.
 
Working table, there is a 45 degres check on the left, because I use the saw with the left hand. This is very useful when clamping greatly improves workability angles.
 
After 3 months on working aft, it is time to change and come to work fore, just to give a better idea of the model exterior shape, but before I needed all the beams.

Well guys figure I couldn't let February end with at least a small update. Have been working on the cannons and a few other items such as the chain pumps, capstan along with redoing the helm port and upper deck transom. It seems the more I looked at those items the more I wanted to redo them and seems that that's what I did. Also added three more of the chain pump sprockets and not hoods along with the chain pin's for the capstan and drop pawl's. Did Montagu have the drop pawl's, maybe yes may be no, butt does seem that they were being used in the fleet as early as 1770 so figure I am safe adding them. Enjoy the photo's folks.  Only 6 more 32 pounder's to add and the guns for this deck will be done.    Gary   



 

 
 

 

Well Walter just took delivery of 800feet of 1/2 inch line and some 1 inch cable plus some other line for the rigging and docking he seems rather pleased now that the delivery has finally arrived, he can get on with the boom now.  The 5/8 line will be delivered tomorrow he was assured.
 

 

 
Michael

Thanks Augie and Ben!
 
Hi Mark,
 
Yes toys I mean tools are great! I can see where a duplicator would be a god send!
Edit...Though it's not a Sherline the Unimat link was very informative.
Re-edit: Sherline version is great too.
Re-re-edit: Vanda-lay link will save me a bunch of searching.
Re-re-re edit: Do-over's. It seems everyday has to many do-overs!
Thanks Joe.
druxey, the design and execution is a bit over my head at this point but maybe in the future.
 
Ok here is the result of the duplication. An acceptable job. Not perfect but they won't be
right next to each other so all should be good.
 

 
 

Build log part 44
 
 
 
rigging the sails part 1 of 2
 
 
 

the wire in the bottom boltrope gives some bulging Appeal to the sails
 

the bulge in vertical direction is given by the brail ropes setting
 

now the leech- clew and burlines have to be attached
 

the gaffsails of the mizzenmast are attached to spanned wires parallel to the gaffyard beams and to the mizzen mast
 

ratlines completed and triangle stay-sails mounted
 

 
 

here again the effect of the wire reinforcement in the bottom boltropes
 

Crew entering up the shrouds on to the Yards, to fasten the sails, when Standing on the horses
 

 

 
 
 
Build log part 45 to follow
 
Nils

After many days cementing these small slats to the deck I finally put the last ones on this morning and added dye where needed.  As far as I'm concerned it looks okay, not great but acceptable. Gwen, the Admiral, says it shows character.  
 
Now I have to make a decision what project I should tackle next.  Hatch hinges?  Torpedo loading gantries?  Mines?  Torpedoes?  Finishing the AA guns?
I guess it'll have to be the hinges.  This'll be slow going - - - I'll be taking my time with this.  Not an easy project  because it's all part of an afterthought.  As mentioned before, I did not plan to make certain things workable but alas, after seeing the model of the O21 I got this wild eyed idea to do something similar.
 
Okay, I took the model outside and shot a bunch of pictures in front of the garage door.  This time I put the boat on two bricks which made for better pics.  I may not post all of them here - - - just too many - - - I got carried away, again.  Well, I kinda like the model as she looks now     
Hope all yuns like them.
 

Starboard side profile
 

Top view from the bow
 

Top view of forward deck from bridge area.
 

Looking aft along the hull from the bow.
 

Looking forward along the hull from the stern.
 

Top view looking forward.
 

Looking forward directly into the stern
 

Top view if the deck looking forward.
 

Looking at the forward deck from the bridge area.
 

Aft deck view towards the aft side of the con.
 

Gwen, the Admiral, took this pic to give all y'all an idea of the size of the model.  I'm 5 feet 8 inches tall.
 
Cheers.

Thanks for the very kind comments.
 
I started working on the sail room, a lot of preparation went into making a jig to cut the mortises for the loovers. After that was set up it was pretty straightforward (I thought, but making the different stanchions with the mortices on the right sides took more than one try....)
 

 

 
The sail room will be made off the model, it's a big 3D jigsaw and I foresee trouble ahead to get the last side in place. But we'll see.
 

 
I also got some fabric to make a couple of sails. I'm wondering if their shouldn't be racks of some sort to store the sails. 
 

 
Remco

Thanks for the nice compliments.
 
 
 
Sure, if I can hire you to do the drafting of the furniture, as I love your drawings. So just send your idea's and we'll make it a joint effort.
 
The upper half of the cupboard as two features, one shelf for pots and one to hold plates, I got the idea of some pictures I found of galleys.
 

 
 
 
Remco

Bedford, I don’t know why I ever doubt the force?  It always comes through. 
 
The planking is finished, the keel and the stern post are in place and the rail around the stern is on.  There’s a lot of cleanup to do but the parts are there.  Next its finish the rail and paint the hull and bulkheads, then the deck goes on.
 
Bob
 

 

 

First off I need to say thank you to all those who look in and click on the like button.  It’s so nice to log on to MSW and see that red signal that says someone likes what you said or did. Again thank you.
 
Now to get on with the boat.  The planking is almost done.  A little more clean-up in the stern and mount the transom and keel.  Also the planksheer so I can mount the stanchions and the bulwarks and then paint.  Wow, I shouldn’t list things like that it makes it sound like a lot of work.  Anyway here’s the pictures.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

Hi all,
 
The hull is finished.  When they rebuilt Lettie, which is what the drawings were taken from, the fore deck was raised to match the poop deck.  That’s why the deck measurement is longer.  They also extended the monkey rail all the way to the bow.  In trying to restore Lettie to original condition I installed the monkey rail around the stern, only up to the step in the deck.
 
I’m going to do something different this time.  I’m going to paint the hull and then install the deck.  On the one hand I won’t have to mask the deck; on the other it will be harder to sand the deck.  Well that’s how we learn.
 
Bob
 

 

 

Build log part 35
 
 
 
 

foreward welldeck with deckhousing and foreward boat Station (no shrouds fitted yet)
 

boatstation with capstan underneath, skid device for pushing boat back
 

slowly getting somewhere
 

chart- and wheelhouse
 

view on poopdeck
 

skylighthousings and small vent
 

chart- an wheelhouse completed
 
 

highdeck completed
 

 
 

lifevest containments
 
 
 
Build log part 36 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 38
 
 
Here come some Pictures I made whilst daylight ilumination, I find they are sharper and better in colour Quality than those made in the Hobby room
Trust the sail making shall then start with log part 41
 
 
 
 

it has now nearly been 2 years since the Pamir was keellayed at Nils`s shipyard
Deck has just been cleaned up for inspection
 

the shrouds are fitted, but ratlines still missing
 

tackled Davits at starboard aft boatstation, boats strapped down
 

all bow stays set through tightly secured
 

the day for relaunch after the 1951 changes is coming nearer day by day
 

portside view to the ships comand- and control area on highdeck
 

second hatch area on foreward welldeck
 

portside aft boat on its cradles with functional strapp down device
 

all paint touchups done
 

view on the Jarvis winch for the third masts bracing tackle
 
 
 
 
Build log part 39 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 37
 
 
 
 

self explaining, this and the two next pics
 

 

 
 

now nearly ready for the sails set
 

but first I have to begin the glass case
 

 

 

 

 

the brass engraved nameplate, this shall go into the glasscase, attached on brackets
 
 
 
before I move on to the sail making part, I have a set of Pictures taken with daylight ilumination which turns out a much better Quality than the hobbyroom lights. It shall show the ship ready to take on the sails.
After that set of Pictures, I shall Show the results of my own sail making (and sewing) Trials, because I found nobody that would do it for me...
 
 
 
 
Build log part 38 to follow

Build log part 36
 
 
 
 

front open wheelhouse placed over wheelstand
 

time to get the mizzen mast shrouds started
 

Pamirs auxiliary rudderstand
 

spars for highdeck capstan in their rack
 

capstan under boatstation
 

foreward boat Station with skid cradles and functional boat strappng down
 

aft boatstations
 

beginning with the foretop shrouds, two wire chords already set and spanned
 

running rigging ropes (Surplus length) coiled up on wooden bits
 

partial view of the lowest mainyard
 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 37 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 43
 
 
 
SAIL MAKING PART 3
 
 

it took me some time to accept my wifes machine as my freind....
 

here doing the last seam parallel to the bolt rope. In case of the triangle sail the longer straight side gets the reinforced boltrope. (to take the pull stresses in rigged condition, without distorting the Cloth)
 

this and the next pics...., impressions on the finished sails
 
 

 

 

 

 
 
 
This is the end of my sail making chapter
 
 
 
 
Build log 44 to follow.....
 
Nils

Build log part 42
 
 
 
SAIL MAKING PART 2
 
 
 

start with the straight seams, here distances 8mm
 

sew on the horizontal reff lines
 

sew a bit out over the pencil lines
 

trim off the Surplus Cloth with fringed out Ends, but leave 2 x 4mm markings standing
 

do some Trial machine sewing on the boltrope
 

this 0,4mm spring hard stainless steel wire goes into the woven Polyester thread
 

should be no Problem if the wire edge is deburred and rounded carefully before inserting
 

your result should look like this
 

attach rings to the bottom outside boltrope Ends (bend a small Loop on the reinforcement wire Ends to pick up the ring)
 

this sewing foot for the machine is used for the last sewing seam parallel to the bolt rope and goes all around the sail
 
 
Build log part 43 to follow....
 
 
Nils

Build log part 41
 
 
 
SAIL MAKING
 
 
 

this is the Basic sail Cloth, fine woven Cotton from warehouse IKEA
 

the different threads, all 100% Polyester thread
 

textile glue for prefixing the folded edges (instead of Fixing with needles)
 

this is hollow woven Polyester-line (will be used for boltropes)
 

first take the sails dimensions, horizontal width on top an bottom, vertical lengths
and draw a paper pattern (template for transfering dimensions to Cloth)
 

Cloth is then moisted (and spray-starched) and irond dry, then do transfered pencil markings on Cloth.My recomended procedure is to add all around twice additional parallel lines in 4mm distance fron another. Leave some additional Cloth all around ! That will give stability to the Cloth when sewing
then mark the cutaways in the corners (cut later on)
The vertical "seams" on the sail resemble the the individual Cloth breadths ( in scals here 7-8mm)
 
 

the stain is what hapens if the iron is left on the Cloth too Long, well most of the stain will be cut away afterwards
 

 
 

here handscetch how the edges are folded twice, how and when the glue for Fixing is applied, and how and where the boltrope is attached by laying a zick-zack stitch over the centered bolt rope. Need some experience
 
 

the bottom boltrope, only This one !, (The hollow woven Polyester thread) is reinforced with a thin (0,4mm) springhard stainless steel wire. The wire is pushed into the threads Soul by rounding the wire edge thorrowly before. Leave Surplus wire Ends Standing out. You shall bend Loops to the Ends later on
 
 
 
Will be continued.....
 
I hope it has been understandable so far, be assured it works well
 
Would love to receive some Feedback from whoever tried this procedure (preferably the "never give up" type)
 
 
 
 
Build log part 42 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 40
 
 
 

forecastle deck, ships bell attached
 

poopdeck
 

view to completed highdeck
 

Forward welldeck
 

view on starbord side, ratlines under way on third mainmast
 

not any suplus space...
 

I tried to Keep it tidy though
 
 
 
Build log part 41 to follow
 
That one shall be comprising the sail making.....
 
 
Nils

Build log part 39
 
 
 

view on aft deckhousing platform (boatstation and operating area Access to winches)
 

down below, between the cargo derricks hatch #4
 

view looking Forward on highdeck
 

catwalk stanchions fitted to brass angle bars, turned to the outside, thus leaving space for 3 Walking Planks in the middle
 

small Access ladder to compas platform in front of the insulated Galley exhaust
 

view over aft welldeck, shrouds mounted, but no ratlines yet. The lifesaver rings I found in correct scale at Billing Boats
 

for those who were asking about the pig Kennels for live pork, here they are...
 

running rigging ropes coiled preliminary on bits of Wood, for attaching to the sails later on
 

view on port Forward welldeck and boat station
 

quite a lot of ropes, stays and running rigging ropes and running rigging for six Yards and sails per mainmast
 
 
 
 
Build log part 40 to follow....
 
Nils

Thanks again!
Would you think it would be smart to set up the model build at an angle so the waterlines were horizontal for the build?
 
I got a wee bit of a second wind after supper and got a small start on the CAD side.
 
I should mention I am doing all at this time in construction lines not object lines.
I intend to copy the file as individual station numbers and then change the sketched lines to objects and build the 3D parts
Then I will create an Assembly file and put them together.
 
I may change this thinking as I progress ... have to see if it still makes sense.

What a learning experience this has been!
 
Found the "stretch" in the drawing while measuring and had to go back and double check everything I did in the Shear Plan.
I attribute it to the accuracy of a pencil plus the 250 years of storage.
Had to compromise on a ratio and accept the fact that it will not be exact.
Consoled myself with the fact the actual build likely was not exact either.
Reworked my spreadsheet (see partial image below).
 
I did some comparison to the Goliath plans and they seem very much the same although drawn by two very different draughtsmen.  There are differences to be seen between the plans with regards to the railing over gun ports and railing height at these gun positions. Elephant rails rise over the two gun ports on each side and Goliath flows level over one and is cut away at the other.  Possibly more to be found yet as I spend more time with them.
 
One other thing that played with my mind was that the waterlines in the shear and body plans are sloped.  I thought they'd be horizontal.
 
Going to start my CAD drawing next but not today... my head hurts.

Completed collecting data from HMS Elephant shear and half breadth plans. Need the waterline heights yet.
Will do same for HMS Goliath (tomorrow?) and compare just for the heck of it to see if there is much difference.
I should be able to start transferring the data to CAD soon.
 
I should also mention that in the PDF program settings I was able to lock the dimension tool to read perfectly horizontal or vertical so no math needed to be done!  

Be careful of plan distortion as you go! (This subject has been the topic of many other threads on this site.)

My build log... back dated to what I consider my actual date of commencement up to today events.
 
31 Dec 2013
Found information on HMS Bellerophon on the internet which rekindled a spark.
 
My interest in the Billy Ruffian stems from my joining #141 Royal Canadian Sea Cadet Corps Bellerophon of Welland Ontario Canada in 1967 at 12 and a wee bit years of age.  I have not been involved in the cadet movement for over a quarter century now but those great memories haven't died away.
 
04 Jan 2014
Stumbled onto modelshipworld.com and after skulking about for an hour decided to join the group; intend to actually scratch build the first Bellerophon
Looking at various Arrogant class build logs (Vanguard & Bellerophon kits) Looking at Victory and Bellona build logs Looking at tools, build methods and little tricks used Overwhelmed with the work done by others and information available; realize how little I know; determined to do my homework. My last (and only) scratch build was a 27 ft whaler.  I was quite familiar with them (and the 30 ft. cutters) as I worked at the boat shed at HMCS Quadra for two summers. Found literature on rigging details on another site; looking for info on mast size details.
 
Got info for plans from forum to order from NMM. Found four plans:
HMS Arrogant (too early; they made changes to the design later) HMS Edgar (ordered well before but launched after Bellerophon) HMS Goliath (ordered after Edgar, launched before Bellerophon; should record the changes made from Edgar on) HMS Elephant (built same time as Bellerophon so may be the best plan). £60 each = $107 CDN ... pretty steep. E-mailed NMM to see if there was a “buy in bulk” price discount.  These plans are about 3 ft x 7 feet each. Not sure where I can lay them out to use and NMM insists they cannot be copied (to make a working set and keep these clean).  This presents a problem. I decided not to look at HMS Vanguard as it was the last of the ships built... well after the Bellerophon... and so might possibly have other changes.
 
11 Jan 2014
Realize if I download build photos and reference documents into folders from the FORUM and other sites and build my own reference library I will retain more of what I see in my memory (works for me as I am “hands on” type of learner).  This has kept me busy!
 
15 Jan 2014
My ex CPO (a modeller by night and Mechanical Engineer in the Pulp and Paper industry by day) recommended “The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860 by James Lee; Found on Amazon and Abesbooks.com, pretty pricey at $100+
 
Found on inter-library loan (Gateneau, Quebec, Government Library, 3 week duration, 3 renewals, no charge); this will allow me to decide (for free) if I should buy the book.
 
Found Rigging Model Ships – A Practicum by Robert E. Hunt 2013 on forum  www.lauckstreetshipyard.com at $119 … once again quite steep
 
16 Jan 2014
Discovered there are two different figureheads for the Bellerophon; Downloaded photographs to my reference library. The first has only the neck and head remaining but is said to have been a full body. The second was torso and head. I intend to recreate the first using the second for inspiration!
 
30 Jan 2014
Received a collection of modelling reference books purchased from a member of this site.  Most turn out to be exactly what this sorrowful example of a modeler needs. Talk about an idiot`s luck!
 
08 Feb 2014
After some confusion (mostly on my part) I finally ordered and downloaded the TIFF ships plans from NMM.  Decided on the TIFF image as it is the clearest possible and I do not have the room to layout 7 foot long plans.
HMS Goliath, one image - lines HMS Elephant, two images - lines and deck plans  
It cost me £150 for the set of three (3) images. They gave me the three JPEG images (quoted at £50 a set) for free.  There is a considerable difference in detail between the two types of files.  I am not disappointed.
TIFF images are 729Mb, 722Mb and 905Mb JPEG images are quite small (1Kb or less) at 300 DPI  
My PDF program (from which I can measure) will not open the TIFF images because they are too large for it and the JPEG images are too grainy.
 
Converted the TIFFs to PDFs at 1200 x 1200 (Largest the program would allow) and they are very clear!
 
Now I intend to get my measurements off the electronic images and redraw in Solidworks to be able to create templates.  I will start my posting of images from here. Might be a while as I have to figure out quite a bit and the first step is always the hardest.  Once I have the plans partially redrawn I can make a final decision regarding the scale of the scratch build and degree of finish or completeness as I will also have to decide where the final display resting place might be.
 
I have stepped through to the dark side … no going back now, eh?
 
Following photos are clips taken from my PDF program showing how I intend to get my measurements.
 
I will use the scale provided on the drawings to convert my small measurements to full size.
It is difficult to get a perfectly vertical or horizontal measurement so I will need to use some old fashion trig calcs to make corrections like the straw man said in the wizard of oz; record all data in excel and then transfer the info to Solidworks.