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EdT

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Everything posted by EdT

  1. EdT
    Thank you, Clipperfan. I do remember. Ed
  2. EdT
    Remcohe, it has been years since we communicated on MSW. It's wonderful to hear from you and of course thank you for your comments on Young America.
  3. EdT
    Thank you all so much for these comments and for letting me know the model is on display. I was not aware. Greg, thank you. Ed, is retired from ship model building. But who knows. Ed
  4. EdT
    Thanks guys, for your nice comments. First, the question of ventilators. I would say no, I saw now trace or reference to them on the ship or even on others of her class and period. Crew quarters were on deck and I am sure that at the prices for goods claimed in California at the time, the entire hold was likely stacked up to the hatch covers. Their is a hatch that could be opened over the passenger accomodation aft. I do not know if the model is on display at Mystic. I was always hopeful, but there were no guarantees. I am not in regular contact with them. My main motive in donating the model was to see it in a good home where it would be taken care of. The Mystic model store is first rate. Naiad and Victory should be so lucky. Cheers, Ed
  5. EdT
    Hello Richard, I do believe that volume 2 is out of print, but cannot advise you how to get a copy. You might try writing to the published, Mike Ellison, (Mike@seawatchbooks.com) but I doubt there is any inventory. You might also try Amazon. I have seen a copy or two of my books show up there used. You might also, post requests on MSW. Perhaps someone may be able to sell you one. Sorry, I could not be more helpful. Ed
  6. EdT
    Rick, You are testing my memory because I know longer have the model, but I am sure that one of the blog posts shows what I did. If there are hoops on the model, I am sure I had a reference basis. As far as the need or desirability of hoop on single tree masts, I would think that hoops would contribut strength and limit splitting in either case. I cannot offer advice on your model. What to do? I suggest research. I found many contemporary documents on line when reserching for YA. Reading through these can be difficult, sometimes frustrating and often inconclusive, but having done it you will be able to defend your choice with some confidence. Fincham is a good place to start. There are others. Ed
  7. EdT
    I acually use a paper cutter depending on the thickness. Also, make sure to get uncoated material. Some craft sources sell coated material that does not tarnish, but also does not react to darkening. Ed
  8. EdT
    When in doubt, Amazon. There's always Micromark. I got brass and copper wire, strips, plate, sheets etc from a variety of places - not one or even a few. A lot of hardware stores - like Ace - have K&S displays. The search for stuff is part of the fun. Ed
  9. EdT
    Hi Randy, On the scuppers, I probably just followed Crothers. Any pictures posted here would be much appreciated. I do not know if my model is on dislay at Mystic, but if you find out, let me know. Ed
  10. EdT
    Ah, thank you Randy. Much better. Looks lovely - and very familiar. Ed
  11. EdT
    Randy, Thanks for the photos. I don't seem to have the software to open these. I will try to get it later. Ed
  12. EdT
    I think it may be a long wait, Maury.
  13. EdT
    I remember making the decision and definitely had a reference, but cannot recall it, specifically. Suggest you look in the Bilbliography. It should be in one of those references. It certainly would have been cheaper at that time to use copper-zinc, ie yellow brass, than copper. If you have doubts, you may have do some of your own research. If my recollection improves I will advise. Ed
  14. EdT
    Randy, If you have a reasonable basis for the scuppers I would go for it. I can't recall how I decided on these. I don't know if the model is on display. Ed
  15. EdT
    Thanks for asking, Rob. The model is at Mystic Seaport. Ed
  16. EdT
    Hello Randy, Seems like I neglected to show these on Drawing 1. Apologies. If you look closely at drawing 5, you will find small circles representing scuppers through the waterway between frames D and E, and 16-17. The third pair are obscured on the drawing by other construction but should be located between frames 32 and 33. I no longer have the model, so I cannot double check that, but in any event, these were located fairly arbitrarily in the model design. I made these by drilling at a slight downward angle thru the waterway, then inserted small brass tubes shaped flush at both ends. I am sure we would all appreciate your sharing some photos of your model. Good luck. Ed
  17. EdT
    Extras if needed. Ed
  18. EdT
    Thank you, Phil!
  19. EdT
    David and Allan, thanks for the input - and nice to hear from you. Ed
  20. EdT
    Mr Bean, Please see Vol 1, p 46, para 4. Stopping the keel rabbet well forward of the sternpost seems to have been typical on these ships based on original drafts. The planking rests on the top of the keel (and bolts to the deadwood) aft of 28. I do not know the reason for this practice, but speculate that it was to avoid weakening the keel at the stern where the supporting deadwood was very small in cross-section. Ed
  21. EdT
    Hello Mr Bean, Thank you for your interest in the model and for purchasing the books. The stem is 20" athwartship (that is breadth perpendicular to the ship centerline) at the top and tapers down to 13.5" to match the width of the keel at the bottom. The knee of the head is 13.5" at the join with the stem over its entire length. I would guess that the reason for that is that the knee of the head does not require the 20" thickness to serve its function of supporting the stem in the fore and aft direction. It also tapers to a narrower breadth going forward. At the upper end, the stem it will be wider than the knee of the head by about 3" on each side. For convenience. the frame section drawings used a common template that shows the keel widths at both midship (15") and at the ends (13.5", so the inner vertical lines on the keel represent the breadth at the ends and the outer lines the breadth at the center - on these pattern drawings. This was a drafting convenience to avoid me having to develop the actual keel width at every frame, which would have been more correct but not really useful, since the keel is not part of the frame. These lines on the frame drawings may be ignored - but do not neglect to taper the breadth of the keel from midship to the ends. Hope this helps. Thank you for posting your question here on the build log, so others may see it. Ed
  22. EdT
    Thanks, again, for your comments on this, Grant. Good advice. Ed
  23. EdT
    Thanks, Grant, for answering Randy's questions. I cannot add much more to what you have said, except to say the modeling projects of this complexity frequently involve solving problems like this one - as well as many others. While I tried very hard in writing the books to make explanations useful to modelers of all levels and thus help draw more people into this level of the craft, it has not been possible to cover every contingency or answer every question that may arise. Randy, I am sure a solution to this problem will emerge as you give it more thought. A very acceptable and simple solution is to use plain square posts, since there is no direct evidence that turned pillars were used in the actual ship. Alternatively, I am sure you could devise a homemade device on the Proxxon lathe, as I did to solve the problem on my equipment. The tool, itself, will not solve every problem. As far as advice on return/replacement of your purchases, I cannot advise on that, but I will say that while a more sophisticated tool will certainly be more capable (and more costly) , the learning curve will be greater and the need for devising solutions to problems like this will not likely be reduced. Ed
  24. EdT
    Randy, the width of common planking is not specified, at least to my knowledge. I believe common available widths would have been used. possibly in the 10-14" range. Others may wish to comment on this. I have searched (briefly I admit) for a simpler vise that could be used on the mill and have purchased a couple that have not really fit the bill. My need has not been pressing enough to do more than that, so I generally live with the Sherline vise. The others I have could no doubt be adapted - more of a mounting task than anything else. The fact that I have the vise permanently mounted on the rotating base, has seemed to compound the adjusting problems, but as I say, this is all more of an annoyance than an impediment. By the way, thanks everyone for the likes and comments. Ed
  25. EdT
    You can create a stop point on the Sherline Mill by setting the Z-Axis height to the end of travel on the bit in the sensitive drilling attachment. For example, raise the head using the Z-axis wheel with the drilling attachment fully extended so the tip of the bit rests on the surface to be drilled, then lower the precise depth required on the Z-axis. Sorry if I,m beginning to sound like a Sherline shareholder.

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