Sven

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 25 – Forward Cant Frames 2
 
 
American Clipper Note:  William Webb foresaw the end of the extreme clipper craze.  He came down to the dock to see Young America off on her first voyage in 1853 and remarked to the mate, “Take good care of her Mister, because after she’s gone there will be no more like her.” (Dunbaugh)  Webb turned his yard to the future.  Young America was his last extreme.  Within the next few years  there was a glut in clipper capacity and the premium freight rates they had enjoyed dropped off, ending demand for the type.  Some were slow to see the change, but Webb’s yard continued to prosper building medium clippers, steamships and even a huge ironclad, finished too late to enter the Civil War. 
 
This part will bring the forward cant framing to completion.
 
All of these frames were almost completely beveled before installation, as I became more comfortable with accuracy of the pin-indexed assembly.  With patterns left on both faces of the assembled frames, each could be cut back to the green lines on the forward face and the red lines on the aft face using disk and spindle sanders.  The sides were then shaved flat to those lines as shown below, using a carver's rasp. 
 

 
This tool leaves a very smooth surface requiring little or no sanding.  The work can be held by hand and/or with the aid of a vise.
 
The next picture shows the clamping of the second frame on the port side.
 
 
 
The clamping of these can be awkward, requiring long-reach clamps and gripping of angled surfaces.  A starboard side frame is being installed below.
 

 
In the next picture the last frame is being installed – with simpler clamping.  The position of each frame was checked with the square from the base drawing when glued in place.
 

 
Although the bevel angles of the joint faces were put on each pattern during lofting, there was still need for some refinement to get the proper installed angle.  Each mortise also required some trimming for a good final fit.
 
With all the frames installed, fair lines for the bolt holes were drawn and the simulated iron bolts installed.  In the next picture a black monofilament bolt is being cut off at the surface after gluing.
 

 
The excess CA glue was washed off with acetone and the bolts leveled off with a file.  The next picture shows the finished bolting on the port side.
 

 
The last two pictures show the finished bolting - six 1 1/8" iron blunts per pair driven flush..
 

 
The thread line seen in these pictures was used to center the half frame pairs.  It is hung by a weight off the center of the sternpost so it can be pushed out of the way or removed when required.
 

 
In the next part the remaining half-frames will be installed, completing the frame setting of the forward hull.
 
Work is progressing much more rapidly than I expected.  I think this is mainly due to the pin-indexed frame assembly and the improved beveling method.
 
 
Ed
 
 
 

Hallo,
thanks for the nice comments.
Currently, the brass parts of the carronades are burnished.

Here is a photo of a carronade with all parts before assembly.

Hello,
this carronades are smaller than most people think it ...
 
Look for yourself ...
 
 
 
 

I think I'll just put my head down on the workbench and whimper.  

John, no.
 
The inner core is some brass cross bored to accept a couple of small 1/4 inch diameter ceramic magnets the dial is a drawing done in cad I'm still playing with the final design.
 
 
 
 
 
The centre is bored out to 1/2 inch diameter.
 
 
 
The base which still need the holes bored for attaching it to the deck, has a 1/8th diameter rod with a dressmakers steel pin cut and glued into the top, At first I just used the pin but the magnets pulled to it , so with just a short piece the magnets are OK. the diameter is 1 3/16 or 9 1/2 in scale.
 
 
 
My silver smith  friend had given me a piece of copper that she had drawn into a cup shape on her press the OD is 1 1/4 inches in diameter I had to dome the top a bit because it was rounded but flat in the middle a bit like a copper end cap for plumbing pipe.
 
 
 
I machined up a ring of brass that will get the holes drilled for mounting on the deck  and some copper rivets to attach it to the copper.
 
 
 
 
A rotation to check that it is still working.
 
 
 
placed in front of Arnold who is sitting in the cockpit.
 
I still need to make the glass cover plate and brass ring. and nameplate.
 
I know its not fully gimbled, perhaps the next one.
 
Michael
 
 
 

Sherry, thanks for your kind words.
 
John, thanks yes I think I will get a round tuit.
 
I had to rearrange the workshop again today, I was bumping the build table every time I used the mill, and I was walking round it too much to do any other work. so basically I have just swapped the build and work tables positions and kept them lengthwise in the shop.
 

 

 
This arrangement will work better I think.
 
Today I thought for a change of pace I would try a cleat the model one is 1 inch long which equates to an 8 inch cleat in scale. I modeled it roughly on the one in the background.
 

 
Thinking about the complexity of the shape and realizing that the most complicated area to make is the underside I tackled it while it was still part of the 1 inch bar
 

 
First the lower sections were cut off with the jewelers saw,then the bottom sides were filed with a couple of needle files  then the wings were tapered with a flat file and given a wire wheel treatment. which makes it look a bit like a casting.
 

 
Next the top curve was cut with the jewelers saw to remove the cleat from the stock.
 

 
Then a couple of .011" counter bores down .050 and then drilled through with a .067" drill some # 1 round headed wood screws were reworked on the lathe to make them a facsimile of a domed cheese head screw. and the cleat cleaned up with files and emery first 220 then 320 then 600 a final polishing with a bit of steel wool.
 

 
Mounted it on the deck, and cleated the tackle for the bob stay. then coiled the rope without any glue or other means, one of the beauties of working rigging.
 

 

 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 

John, Andy, Bob, thanks for checking in.
 
Yesterday afternoon and today I worked on some more rope on the ropewalk. I used some Guttermann 100% Egyptian cotton Ce 50 to make up some more standing rigging parts
I used 39 strands to make some 5/8' scale rope and 27strands for some1/2"
 
and also some more blocks for the bowsprit shrouds the rig will use a single block with a becket and a double block on each shroud, tomorrow I will finish the second single block and make the brackets for the hull and drill the holes through the bulwarks.
 
This series of shots shows the parts of the block and the sequence of the gluing and shaping.
 

 

 

 
The brass bars were originally drilled inside all the previous blocks but I have refined the process a little and now am drilling them in a flat jig first
 
The top and bottom pins are .437" apart and the sheave is 1/4 inch diameter the wood is hard maple. I keep thinking about Remco's byline about treating each part as a complete model and it is really helping me with this build.
 
The port side belaying pins
 

 
Michael

Well done Daniel. She looks great! Nice job
 
Matt

started on the shield and the other small guy

Final touches. A few flags
 
Thanks for following this thread!
 
Matt
 
 

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 182 – Anchor Lining
 
 
Once the channels were finished, except for a few ringbolts, the anchor lining could be installed on the finished side. The anchor lining protected the hull planking from damage by the anchor after catting, when it was being lifted and secured to the side.
 
The first picture shows a layer of 3” thick planking being fastened to the wale.
 

 
From the top of the wale to the fore end of the fore channel, a panel of three inch planks was constructed. The next picture shows the supports for these, three stanchions.
 

 
I could find no spec for these so made them each a sturdy 6” x 6”. They are bolted at the channel and just above the top of the wale.
 
The last wo pictures show the finished installation.
 

 

 
 
Ed

Once again thanks for looking in on my build!
 
We are going away for some sun to escape the long continuing London winter so I shall complete the build when we return
 
Time to review the things I think could be improved
 
I definitely need to improve planning the rigging in advance with more fixings on yards hull and tops
 
I also think that it is possible to get a good approximation of ratlines and deadeyes which I shall try next time
 
I am happy with the materials used but would like to improve the precision of deck fittings
 
The tension in the rigging needs to be managed better and I would like to try getting more realistic sag on the lines
 
There should be less reliance on glue which has built up too much in some places and catches the light.
 
Matt

Getting tangled up in running rigging and experimenting with sails!
 

Thanks for your kind comments guys, I do feel that my build is just playing compared to the masterpieces being shown on this forum, but at least I can build mine on the kitchen table!
 
Sonicmcdude, the ship will eventually reside inside this glass cloche that the admiral has acquired

 
I have started on the standing rigging using a bead thread which is not too "hairy"

 
I am using fine brass tubes for the upper masts and yards which although cannot be tapered seem to have the right feel in terms of visual weight and complement the woods used. I am not quite sure about the representation of the shroud chains, I may revisit this later. I also need to think about whether I should try to indicate the deadeyes and lanyards.
 

 
My son is studying medicine and gave me a set of his disposable surgical instruments which are great for this work! Clamps are very useful to act as weights to ensure even tension on all the shrouds
 

 

 

 

 

 
A picture of the rigging underway after launching!

New recruit requesting permission to come aboard!
 
Having made a few ships in bottles I wanted to see how small I could make a static ship model.
I have been overawed by the quality and craftsmanship of models I have seen in these pages and know that I could never come close to these. 
I used to build small ships when I was a kid so I  thought I would have another go. this is one from 45 years ago that my mother still had!
 
  I really loved the models I used to look at in the NMM and Science Museum in London and decided to make my Victory out of boxwood for the beautiful colour and fine grain. I acquired some boxwood veneer and made a start.
 

 
I made the bulkheads and keel from 0.7mm ply the boxwood was used for deck and planking
 



 
I was keen to keep the model in a timber finish and started to construct the stern and galleries onto the base hull form
 

 
The gunports are closed! and therefore set out as simple squares on the hull. I also started to think about the few visible cannons with brass tube barrels.
 

 
Lower masts are bamboo skewers reduced through a draw plate and bands fitted in cotton thread
 

 
For the smaller solid parts I used sawn sections from one of my wife's used clay modelling tools which are made of fine boxwood
 

Thanks Bob, Daniel and Mark!
 
Daniel that was a great tip on the watch parts. I got a 20 gram bag for £5 off eBay with literally thousands of tiny engineered pieces. Lots of fun sorting them into types!
 
Deck furnishing now done
 
Matt
 
 

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 177– Port Side, Lower Stern
 
At the time of the “Great Crash” I was working on the unplanked port side of the model and anticipating completion of the entire model within weeks.  It eventually took longer, perhaps without the pressure to keep posting – or perhaps it was resisting crossing the finish line.
 
Anyway, the first picture shows the two additional ribbands installed – one at the height of the wale and the second at the height of the sheer rail.  In this picture the planksheer along the waist and the roughtree rail along the topsides of the quarter deck are also in place.
 

 
The next picture shows a closer view pf the planksheer and the gangways installed along the waist.  The tops of these decked walkways is flush with the tops of the planksheers.
 

 
Part of the final work on the port side was to locate and insert all the missing bolts that were left uninstalled during work on the knees, spirketing, and other internal members that bolt through the hull.
 
The next picture shows a closer view of the port gangway and one of the ladders into the waist.
 

 
Only the basic structure of the quarter gallery on the port side was installed.  This included the stools, the rim with its stanchions and the upper and lower finishings.  The next picture was taken after bolting in the lower finishing on the port side with the model inverted.  
 

 
While in this position, the final applications of wax finish were applied to the lower stern and the lower hull framing.
 
The next picture shows work on the lower parts of the starboard quarter gallery that were also installed at this time.
 

 
In the next picture the model has been righted and all of the lower parts of the quarter gallery are in place.
 

 
 
Ed

Thanks Bob, Daniel and Mark!
 
Daniel that was a great tip on the watch parts. I got a 20 gram bag for £5 off eBay with literally thousands of tiny engineered pieces. Lots of fun sorting them into types!
 
Deck furnishing now done
 
Matt
 
 

Thanks Michael. You are too kind! I really think I am only starting out.
 
I am finding the running rigging quite tough and I regret not planning ahead more with suitable fixing points on hull and spars. A lesson for next time!
 
I acquired a new toy today from Aldi supermarket (!) a small adjustable vice on a vacuum mount. Just the job for getting the angle right for tensioning. I can see many more days on this stage of the work
 
Matt

Victory is a very convenient size!
I am trying to decide how much more detail to add after the running rigging. I think I shall do solid ships boats and anchors but perhaps not the hammock netting. I had thought about copper Leaf underneath but I like the boxwood look
 
Matt

Final touches. A few flags
 
Thanks for following this thread!
 
Matt
 
 

Hi guys
 
I thought I would have a short diversion and build a ship for an interesting bottle I found. Actually it is a vase with a narrow neck. Quite thick glass but optically clear
 
I love the lines of Britannia and getting the sails right will be key to the build!
 

Deck is now laid and the first coat of primer on the hull. The bulwarks should hide the small gap at the edge if the deck. The hull will be black above the waterline and red below. The difficult bit will be getting the line right
 

Thanks again for the comments fellas!
Been a bit slow on the finishing of the hull. As expected I needed several goes at the waterline and had to respray a few times!
Now back on track with some brass detailing added to the hull. The portholes are .7 mm holes with cut sections of brass tube inlaid. I am also experimenting with the ship's wheel.
 
Matt
 

Thanks again for the comments fellas!
Been a bit slow on the finishing of the hull. As expected I needed several goes at the waterline and had to respray a few times!
Now back on track with some brass detailing added to the hull. The portholes are .7 mm holes with cut sections of brass tube inlaid. I am also experimenting with the ship's wheel.
 
Matt