samueljr

Thanks for the input Druxey and Rob.
 
I would have to agree - I am not sold on the final look (that's why I've only done the short side to date and have not made any more strips)
 
The ponce wheel is aggressive. I'm going to mock-up some strips with the perimeter markings and then with the medium size wheel in the field with only two rows and see how that looks.  
 
I'll post them ASAP.
 
Thanks - Sam

Not convinced yet but thought I'd put this out here.
 
I followed the same process as the first application but this time I limited the field to two lines of nails and was much lighter with the pressure I applied when working the wheels.
 
The pics are (obviously) before and after dull coat. There are a couple of spots that have to be touched again with the dull coat but I wanted to wait to allow the first coat to fully dry before I touch-up.
 
Sam

Not convinced yet but thought I'd put this out here.
 
I followed the same process as the first application but this time I limited the field to two lines of nails and was much lighter with the pressure I applied when working the wheels.
 
The pics are (obviously) before and after dull coat. There are a couple of spots that have to be touched again with the dull coat but I wanted to wait to allow the first coat to fully dry before I touch-up.
 
Sam

Thought I'd try a reduced nail pattern test for the copper. 
 
There is still a tighter small nail line along one continuous edge and perpendicular for the end of the plate. I only used two rows for the field. Instead of burnishing the strip between my fingers I used a small dental tool to smooth the pattern.
 
The darker spots are where the spray on dull coat was rubbed off a bit.
 
I've not used a ponce wheel for this effect previously so I'm still experimenting.
 
Rob, thanks for the pics of the copper plates. I believe they are from the '27 (?) rework so I'm not certain if the pattern is considered accurate to the 1812 era. If anyone knows for certain please hop in.
 
?????????
 
It continues............
 
Sam
 
 

I'm going to work up a plate with a very light nail pattern
 
Stay tuned
 
Thank's to all 
 
Sam

The port side finished being planked , sanded, painted and poly'd.
 
Starboard - just getting started.....................

I'm going to work up a plate with a very light nail pattern
 
Stay tuned
 
Thank's to all 
 
Sam

I'm going to work up a plate with a very light nail pattern
 
Stay tuned
 
Thank's to all 
 
Sam

Thought I'd try a reduced nail pattern test for the copper. 
 
There is still a tighter small nail line along one continuous edge and perpendicular for the end of the plate. I only used two rows for the field. Instead of burnishing the strip between my fingers I used a small dental tool to smooth the pattern.
 
The darker spots are where the spray on dull coat was rubbed off a bit.
 
I've not used a ponce wheel for this effect previously so I'm still experimenting.
 
Rob, thanks for the pics of the copper plates. I believe they are from the '27 (?) rework so I'm not certain if the pattern is considered accurate to the 1812 era. If anyone knows for certain please hop in.
 
?????????
 
It continues............
 
Sam
 
 

Well an update on the copper -
 
Before I started I drilled two holes in the bottom of the keel for mounting pegs, screws or some type of rod. I haven't decided  yet how I'm going to set the hull as it's somewhat awkward in size. It's about 9"-3/4" lonng, 6" wide (on hull) with mast and yard it will be about 35" high and 19" across. I'm not certain where the center of gravity will be. The holes give me the option of pedestals (my personal favorite) although the keel is a 1/4" thick so any commercially available offering would have to be modified. Or I can design some type of brackets/stand that will balance the weight. TBD.
 
In approaching the copper I considered a couple of different options, available stamped copper plates or the use of tape in some way. I've used both previously with good results but I thought  I'd keep this build a little more organic and make the finish mayself so tape it was.
 
Upon selecting tape, I was faced (as we all are) with how to best represent the nail heads (pattern). The scale 1:78.6 leaves little option on trying to represnt the actual pattern but does offer the chance to get a repetative look. 
 
In embracing my mantra of change I chose to use a ponce wheel set rather than the press method of creating a die with a small block and multiple filed off nail/pin shafts. So I ordered the three wheel set from Micro-Mart.
 
I took a cue from both XBEN and RAFINE going forward.
 
XBEN's CONSTITUTION build is magnificent and his approach to using two sizes of wheels is spot on. I followed a similar approach in laying the pattern out with a small close set row along one edge and then a perpendicular row to represent the vertical edge of the plate. I deviated here though in that I did not seperate the strip (1/4" copper tape and 7/8" plates) I took the back side of a #11 xacto blade and embossed the joint line vertically on the tape. For the field nails I ran three rows of the largest  wheel. I then enbossed the strip between my fingers to smooth it out.
 
I've seen RAFINE in his builds use strips as opposed to individual plates and dreading the thought of several hunded plates (even on the reduced surface areas) I decided to try strips.
 
The copper tape is finicky when peeled from it's backer paper after a certain length so I went with two 5" or so strips for each starke to make it manageable.
 
The first strips covered bottom of the keel. I then laid the next strips on working progressively from stern forward and up. When done I capped the bottom edge of the keel.
 
I do not like the bright finish on the tape so I applied a light coat of Testors' dull coat lacquer and used a blow dryer to speed the set. I've found that when heated as drying the lacquer will flatten the color out and leave a more "old penny" copper color.
 
??????????????????
 
 
 
 

Thought I'd try a reduced nail pattern test for the copper. 
 
There is still a tighter small nail line along one continuous edge and perpendicular for the end of the plate. I only used two rows for the field. Instead of burnishing the strip between my fingers I used a small dental tool to smooth the pattern.
 
The darker spots are where the spray on dull coat was rubbed off a bit.
 
I've not used a ponce wheel for this effect previously so I'm still experimenting.
 
Rob, thanks for the pics of the copper plates. I believe they are from the '27 (?) rework so I'm not certain if the pattern is considered accurate to the 1812 era. If anyone knows for certain please hop in.
 
?????????
 
It continues............
 
Sam
 
 

Thought I'd try a reduced nail pattern test for the copper. 
 
There is still a tighter small nail line along one continuous edge and perpendicular for the end of the plate. I only used two rows for the field. Instead of burnishing the strip between my fingers I used a small dental tool to smooth the pattern.
 
The darker spots are where the spray on dull coat was rubbed off a bit.
 
I've not used a ponce wheel for this effect previously so I'm still experimenting.
 
Rob, thanks for the pics of the copper plates. I believe they are from the '27 (?) rework so I'm not certain if the pattern is considered accurate to the 1812 era. If anyone knows for certain please hop in.
 
?????????
 
It continues............
 
Sam
 
 

Thought I'd try a reduced nail pattern test for the copper. 
 
There is still a tighter small nail line along one continuous edge and perpendicular for the end of the plate. I only used two rows for the field. Instead of burnishing the strip between my fingers I used a small dental tool to smooth the pattern.
 
The darker spots are where the spray on dull coat was rubbed off a bit.
 
I've not used a ponce wheel for this effect previously so I'm still experimenting.
 
Rob, thanks for the pics of the copper plates. I believe they are from the '27 (?) rework so I'm not certain if the pattern is considered accurate to the 1812 era. If anyone knows for certain please hop in.
 
?????????
 
It continues............
 
Sam
 
 

Thought I'd try a reduced nail pattern test for the copper. 
 
There is still a tighter small nail line along one continuous edge and perpendicular for the end of the plate. I only used two rows for the field. Instead of burnishing the strip between my fingers I used a small dental tool to smooth the pattern.
 
The darker spots are where the spray on dull coat was rubbed off a bit.
 
I've not used a ponce wheel for this effect previously so I'm still experimenting.
 
Rob, thanks for the pics of the copper plates. I believe they are from the '27 (?) rework so I'm not certain if the pattern is considered accurate to the 1812 era. If anyone knows for certain please hop in.
 
?????????
 
It continues............
 
Sam
 
 

Thanks for the input Druxey and Rob.
 
I would have to agree - I am not sold on the final look (that's why I've only done the short side to date and have not made any more strips)
 
The ponce wheel is aggressive. I'm going to mock-up some strips with the perimeter markings and then with the medium size wheel in the field with only two rows and see how that looks.  
 
I'll post them ASAP.
 
Thanks - Sam

Thanks for the input Druxey and Rob.
 
I would have to agree - I am not sold on the final look (that's why I've only done the short side to date and have not made any more strips)
 
The ponce wheel is aggressive. I'm going to mock-up some strips with the perimeter markings and then with the medium size wheel in the field with only two rows and see how that looks.  
 
I'll post them ASAP.
 
Thanks - Sam

Well an update on the copper -
 
Before I started I drilled two holes in the bottom of the keel for mounting pegs, screws or some type of rod. I haven't decided  yet how I'm going to set the hull as it's somewhat awkward in size. It's about 9"-3/4" lonng, 6" wide (on hull) with mast and yard it will be about 35" high and 19" across. I'm not certain where the center of gravity will be. The holes give me the option of pedestals (my personal favorite) although the keel is a 1/4" thick so any commercially available offering would have to be modified. Or I can design some type of brackets/stand that will balance the weight. TBD.
 
In approaching the copper I considered a couple of different options, available stamped copper plates or the use of tape in some way. I've used both previously with good results but I thought  I'd keep this build a little more organic and make the finish mayself so tape it was.
 
Upon selecting tape, I was faced (as we all are) with how to best represent the nail heads (pattern). The scale 1:78.6 leaves little option on trying to represnt the actual pattern but does offer the chance to get a repetative look. 
 
In embracing my mantra of change I chose to use a ponce wheel set rather than the press method of creating a die with a small block and multiple filed off nail/pin shafts. So I ordered the three wheel set from Micro-Mart.
 
I took a cue from both XBEN and RAFINE going forward.
 
XBEN's CONSTITUTION build is magnificent and his approach to using two sizes of wheels is spot on. I followed a similar approach in laying the pattern out with a small close set row along one edge and then a perpendicular row to represent the vertical edge of the plate. I deviated here though in that I did not seperate the strip (1/4" copper tape and 7/8" plates) I took the back side of a #11 xacto blade and embossed the joint line vertically on the tape. For the field nails I ran three rows of the largest  wheel. I then enbossed the strip between my fingers to smooth it out.
 
I've seen RAFINE in his builds use strips as opposed to individual plates and dreading the thought of several hunded plates (even on the reduced surface areas) I decided to try strips.
 
The copper tape is finicky when peeled from it's backer paper after a certain length so I went with two 5" or so strips for each starke to make it manageable.
 
The first strips covered bottom of the keel. I then laid the next strips on working progressively from stern forward and up. When done I capped the bottom edge of the keel.
 
I do not like the bright finish on the tape so I applied a light coat of Testors' dull coat lacquer and used a blow dryer to speed the set. I've found that when heated as drying the lacquer will flatten the color out and leave a more "old penny" copper color.
 
??????????????????
 
 
 
 

Started copper - just pics tonight. Don't know if I like it or not. Still has to be sealed which will knock brightness off of it.
 
Details tomorrow.
 
Opinions?
 
Suggestions? (giving up boats is not an option - LOL!)
 
Thanks - Sam

The next step in prepping the bottom of the hull for copper is leveling and smoothing it out.
  Even though great care was taken in planking and sanding, the basswood still has minor imperfections that could show through the thin copper tape.  The bottom was "washed" with an almost liquefied water based wood filler. This achieved two tasks; one filling in any imperfections and raising the grain of the basswood one final time.   Once the surface was dry it was lightly sanded and wiped down. The feel to it at this point is almost glass like.    There are a number of different theories regarding surface prep for adhesive copper tape, ranging from no prep at all up to using a a coating of some type of paint or gesso. Keeping with my philosophy of new approaches on this build I've decided to use a brush on primer that has a leveling property to it. It was brushed on (very lightly) to the point where the wood is almost visable through it.   Once dry it will be sanded and wiped down. This should leave a smooth defect free surface that will provide good adhesion for the tape.   The pics show only through primer application. I'm going to allow 24 hours dry time before final sanding.   To be continued.................

Well an update on the copper -
 
Before I started I drilled two holes in the bottom of the keel for mounting pegs, screws or some type of rod. I haven't decided  yet how I'm going to set the hull as it's somewhat awkward in size. It's about 9"-3/4" lonng, 6" wide (on hull) with mast and yard it will be about 35" high and 19" across. I'm not certain where the center of gravity will be. The holes give me the option of pedestals (my personal favorite) although the keel is a 1/4" thick so any commercially available offering would have to be modified. Or I can design some type of brackets/stand that will balance the weight. TBD.
 
In approaching the copper I considered a couple of different options, available stamped copper plates or the use of tape in some way. I've used both previously with good results but I thought  I'd keep this build a little more organic and make the finish mayself so tape it was.
 
Upon selecting tape, I was faced (as we all are) with how to best represent the nail heads (pattern). The scale 1:78.6 leaves little option on trying to represnt the actual pattern but does offer the chance to get a repetative look. 
 
In embracing my mantra of change I chose to use a ponce wheel set rather than the press method of creating a die with a small block and multiple filed off nail/pin shafts. So I ordered the three wheel set from Micro-Mart.
 
I took a cue from both XBEN and RAFINE going forward.
 
XBEN's CONSTITUTION build is magnificent and his approach to using two sizes of wheels is spot on. I followed a similar approach in laying the pattern out with a small close set row along one edge and then a perpendicular row to represent the vertical edge of the plate. I deviated here though in that I did not seperate the strip (1/4" copper tape and 7/8" plates) I took the back side of a #11 xacto blade and embossed the joint line vertically on the tape. For the field nails I ran three rows of the largest  wheel. I then enbossed the strip between my fingers to smooth it out.
 
I've seen RAFINE in his builds use strips as opposed to individual plates and dreading the thought of several hunded plates (even on the reduced surface areas) I decided to try strips.
 
The copper tape is finicky when peeled from it's backer paper after a certain length so I went with two 5" or so strips for each starke to make it manageable.
 
The first strips covered bottom of the keel. I then laid the next strips on working progressively from stern forward and up. When done I capped the bottom edge of the keel.
 
I do not like the bright finish on the tape so I applied a light coat of Testors' dull coat lacquer and used a blow dryer to speed the set. I've found that when heated as drying the lacquer will flatten the color out and leave a more "old penny" copper color.
 
??????????????????
 
 
 
 

Well an update on the copper -
 
Before I started I drilled two holes in the bottom of the keel for mounting pegs, screws or some type of rod. I haven't decided  yet how I'm going to set the hull as it's somewhat awkward in size. It's about 9"-3/4" lonng, 6" wide (on hull) with mast and yard it will be about 35" high and 19" across. I'm not certain where the center of gravity will be. The holes give me the option of pedestals (my personal favorite) although the keel is a 1/4" thick so any commercially available offering would have to be modified. Or I can design some type of brackets/stand that will balance the weight. TBD.
 
In approaching the copper I considered a couple of different options, available stamped copper plates or the use of tape in some way. I've used both previously with good results but I thought  I'd keep this build a little more organic and make the finish mayself so tape it was.
 
Upon selecting tape, I was faced (as we all are) with how to best represent the nail heads (pattern). The scale 1:78.6 leaves little option on trying to represnt the actual pattern but does offer the chance to get a repetative look. 
 
In embracing my mantra of change I chose to use a ponce wheel set rather than the press method of creating a die with a small block and multiple filed off nail/pin shafts. So I ordered the three wheel set from Micro-Mart.
 
I took a cue from both XBEN and RAFINE going forward.
 
XBEN's CONSTITUTION build is magnificent and his approach to using two sizes of wheels is spot on. I followed a similar approach in laying the pattern out with a small close set row along one edge and then a perpendicular row to represent the vertical edge of the plate. I deviated here though in that I did not seperate the strip (1/4" copper tape and 7/8" plates) I took the back side of a #11 xacto blade and embossed the joint line vertically on the tape. For the field nails I ran three rows of the largest  wheel. I then enbossed the strip between my fingers to smooth it out.
 
I've seen RAFINE in his builds use strips as opposed to individual plates and dreading the thought of several hunded plates (even on the reduced surface areas) I decided to try strips.
 
The copper tape is finicky when peeled from it's backer paper after a certain length so I went with two 5" or so strips for each starke to make it manageable.
 
The first strips covered bottom of the keel. I then laid the next strips on working progressively from stern forward and up. When done I capped the bottom edge of the keel.
 
I do not like the bright finish on the tape so I applied a light coat of Testors' dull coat lacquer and used a blow dryer to speed the set. I've found that when heated as drying the lacquer will flatten the color out and leave a more "old penny" copper color.
 
??????????????????
 
 
 
 

Well an update on the copper -
 
Before I started I drilled two holes in the bottom of the keel for mounting pegs, screws or some type of rod. I haven't decided  yet how I'm going to set the hull as it's somewhat awkward in size. It's about 9"-3/4" lonng, 6" wide (on hull) with mast and yard it will be about 35" high and 19" across. I'm not certain where the center of gravity will be. The holes give me the option of pedestals (my personal favorite) although the keel is a 1/4" thick so any commercially available offering would have to be modified. Or I can design some type of brackets/stand that will balance the weight. TBD.
 
In approaching the copper I considered a couple of different options, available stamped copper plates or the use of tape in some way. I've used both previously with good results but I thought  I'd keep this build a little more organic and make the finish mayself so tape it was.
 
Upon selecting tape, I was faced (as we all are) with how to best represent the nail heads (pattern). The scale 1:78.6 leaves little option on trying to represnt the actual pattern but does offer the chance to get a repetative look. 
 
In embracing my mantra of change I chose to use a ponce wheel set rather than the press method of creating a die with a small block and multiple filed off nail/pin shafts. So I ordered the three wheel set from Micro-Mart.
 
I took a cue from both XBEN and RAFINE going forward.
 
XBEN's CONSTITUTION build is magnificent and his approach to using two sizes of wheels is spot on. I followed a similar approach in laying the pattern out with a small close set row along one edge and then a perpendicular row to represent the vertical edge of the plate. I deviated here though in that I did not seperate the strip (1/4" copper tape and 7/8" plates) I took the back side of a #11 xacto blade and embossed the joint line vertically on the tape. For the field nails I ran three rows of the largest  wheel. I then enbossed the strip between my fingers to smooth it out.
 
I've seen RAFINE in his builds use strips as opposed to individual plates and dreading the thought of several hunded plates (even on the reduced surface areas) I decided to try strips.
 
The copper tape is finicky when peeled from it's backer paper after a certain length so I went with two 5" or so strips for each starke to make it manageable.
 
The first strips covered bottom of the keel. I then laid the next strips on working progressively from stern forward and up. When done I capped the bottom edge of the keel.
 
I do not like the bright finish on the tape so I applied a light coat of Testors' dull coat lacquer and used a blow dryer to speed the set. I've found that when heated as drying the lacquer will flatten the color out and leave a more "old penny" copper color.
 
??????????????????
 
 
 
 

Well an update on the copper -
 
Before I started I drilled two holes in the bottom of the keel for mounting pegs, screws or some type of rod. I haven't decided  yet how I'm going to set the hull as it's somewhat awkward in size. It's about 9"-3/4" lonng, 6" wide (on hull) with mast and yard it will be about 35" high and 19" across. I'm not certain where the center of gravity will be. The holes give me the option of pedestals (my personal favorite) although the keel is a 1/4" thick so any commercially available offering would have to be modified. Or I can design some type of brackets/stand that will balance the weight. TBD.
 
In approaching the copper I considered a couple of different options, available stamped copper plates or the use of tape in some way. I've used both previously with good results but I thought  I'd keep this build a little more organic and make the finish mayself so tape it was.
 
Upon selecting tape, I was faced (as we all are) with how to best represent the nail heads (pattern). The scale 1:78.6 leaves little option on trying to represnt the actual pattern but does offer the chance to get a repetative look. 
 
In embracing my mantra of change I chose to use a ponce wheel set rather than the press method of creating a die with a small block and multiple filed off nail/pin shafts. So I ordered the three wheel set from Micro-Mart.
 
I took a cue from both XBEN and RAFINE going forward.
 
XBEN's CONSTITUTION build is magnificent and his approach to using two sizes of wheels is spot on. I followed a similar approach in laying the pattern out with a small close set row along one edge and then a perpendicular row to represent the vertical edge of the plate. I deviated here though in that I did not seperate the strip (1/4" copper tape and 7/8" plates) I took the back side of a #11 xacto blade and embossed the joint line vertically on the tape. For the field nails I ran three rows of the largest  wheel. I then enbossed the strip between my fingers to smooth it out.
 
I've seen RAFINE in his builds use strips as opposed to individual plates and dreading the thought of several hunded plates (even on the reduced surface areas) I decided to try strips.
 
The copper tape is finicky when peeled from it's backer paper after a certain length so I went with two 5" or so strips for each starke to make it manageable.
 
The first strips covered bottom of the keel. I then laid the next strips on working progressively from stern forward and up. When done I capped the bottom edge of the keel.
 
I do not like the bright finish on the tape so I applied a light coat of Testors' dull coat lacquer and used a blow dryer to speed the set. I've found that when heated as drying the lacquer will flatten the color out and leave a more "old penny" copper color.
 
??????????????????
 
 
 
 

Well an update on the copper -
 
Before I started I drilled two holes in the bottom of the keel for mounting pegs, screws or some type of rod. I haven't decided  yet how I'm going to set the hull as it's somewhat awkward in size. It's about 9"-3/4" lonng, 6" wide (on hull) with mast and yard it will be about 35" high and 19" across. I'm not certain where the center of gravity will be. The holes give me the option of pedestals (my personal favorite) although the keel is a 1/4" thick so any commercially available offering would have to be modified. Or I can design some type of brackets/stand that will balance the weight. TBD.
 
In approaching the copper I considered a couple of different options, available stamped copper plates or the use of tape in some way. I've used both previously with good results but I thought  I'd keep this build a little more organic and make the finish mayself so tape it was.
 
Upon selecting tape, I was faced (as we all are) with how to best represent the nail heads (pattern). The scale 1:78.6 leaves little option on trying to represnt the actual pattern but does offer the chance to get a repetative look. 
 
In embracing my mantra of change I chose to use a ponce wheel set rather than the press method of creating a die with a small block and multiple filed off nail/pin shafts. So I ordered the three wheel set from Micro-Mart.
 
I took a cue from both XBEN and RAFINE going forward.
 
XBEN's CONSTITUTION build is magnificent and his approach to using two sizes of wheels is spot on. I followed a similar approach in laying the pattern out with a small close set row along one edge and then a perpendicular row to represent the vertical edge of the plate. I deviated here though in that I did not seperate the strip (1/4" copper tape and 7/8" plates) I took the back side of a #11 xacto blade and embossed the joint line vertically on the tape. For the field nails I ran three rows of the largest  wheel. I then enbossed the strip between my fingers to smooth it out.
 
I've seen RAFINE in his builds use strips as opposed to individual plates and dreading the thought of several hunded plates (even on the reduced surface areas) I decided to try strips.
 
The copper tape is finicky when peeled from it's backer paper after a certain length so I went with two 5" or so strips for each starke to make it manageable.
 
The first strips covered bottom of the keel. I then laid the next strips on working progressively from stern forward and up. When done I capped the bottom edge of the keel.
 
I do not like the bright finish on the tape so I applied a light coat of Testors' dull coat lacquer and used a blow dryer to speed the set. I've found that when heated as drying the lacquer will flatten the color out and leave a more "old penny" copper color.
 
??????????????????
 
 
 
 

Two more reference photos are shown. The windlass handles will not be installed into the windlass, but placed as shown in the photos. Installed, they took up too much needed space. 
 
There's a lot more to do, but I wanted to get some feedback on the rudder placement. Installed or stowed?  Any thoughts? There will be a rope coil placed on the aft platform and one on the port side cockpit seat.   
Steve