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The whales have been marked out. This kit design differs from others i have done where u start with doing the complete whales by adding 3 strips of 1x4mm walnut in 2 layers.  After that you start with the 2nd planking.

Just painted the inner bulwarks ochre red. Fun to do! I like painting the ship, because i can channel my pursuit of perfection into it 😂😁

Just varnished the deck. I really like it how it let pop the color of the planks! The result is beautiful in my opinion.
How much layers of varnish do you guys put on the deck? One or two?

Finished the inner bulwarks, sanded them and now i only need to plank the stern at the inside and then painting it!

Planking process happening
 
I apply the caulking with a 2B pencil, and clamp the planks with pins. By the way...the provided wood is horrible. The tanganyika planks are really brittle and rough.
 
When the deck planking is finished, you don't sand the deck right? But scrape it with a knife or something like that?
 
 


 

The stern fascia is now okay in my opinion. I extended the wale, and used some woodglue/wood dust to fill up the cracks and holes.
Everything gets painted black, so the different colors do not gonna be visible.
 
 

And also it seems that i have to make the wale longer, over the stern fascia, as i can see in the manual. Otherwise it looks a bit strange

Just placed the stern fascia. In the manual it says that you place it after you planked the deck and the inner bulwarks. This doesn't seemt logical for me so i did it now. Definitely needs work after it to clean it up. 

Glued and nailed the upper deck
from front to back it's 1mm of center...well...it happens 😁. I can live with that. Dry fitted the mast also, so that fits when the time is ready

Thank you so much! I'm happy with it for a first time, it was a nice learning proces. It was not exactly how i wanted it but i'm a perfectionist so maybe it's never okay haha. I didn't get the measurements right, but that was okay because the copper tiles could mask it. For a next build there's more to learn about that!

First build?....very nice planking job!
 
 

You're making good progress mugje;
Acetone is the stuff to use to remove ca. I apply it carefully with a cotton bud but be careful it will also remove the plates if it is used too liberally.
 I follow up the cleaning using a mixture of vinegar and salt rubbed over the plates, be careful not to snag them.
The plates will need to be fully clean if they are to  age evenly.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

First question right away. I'm happy how the copper plating turned out. And it's aging by day, i like that a lot!
But there is some glue residue visible from the CA glue i used for the tiles. Now i read that you can wipe it off with some
aceton? Does it also count for the dried glue like you see in on the pictures? and what is the best technique then? Any tips are appreciated!

This is where i'm at now. 

...yep, tempest fugit!
 
I bought your Aggy kit from CALDERCRAFT and turned it into HMS Ardent - NOT Amati/Victory. Nonetheless, your design has long legs, Chris; it was excellent 20 years ago and remains so for this legacy kit.
 
Check the attached pics out: not my build, but a colleague's in my ship model club who completed it this year as a modified "dockyard" styled model.

Post 10
Reworking the Transom:-
I have already departed from the kit arrangement by incorporating lower side counter timbers.

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My next step is to glue the stern transom pattern (49) this also is planked with thin box strip. I think the stern pattern will stand a slight beefing up and the Box wood cladding will do the job.

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Initial trial fitting of the transom  showed that there was no margin along the bottom of the gun ports inboard, to allow for the deck planking, which would otherwise rise above the framing.
The one clear photo in the build guide shows such a margin, but that is without the 1mm planking applied to the platform deck above the counter.
I had to tweak the transom piece by adding a strip along the bottom to raise it slightly above the deck level.
Once this is done it is clearer to see how the upper side timber (75) which incorporates the boom crutch, can be accommodated.

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With the Transom piece fitted, I now have a solid edge to work the Upper side timbers.
I think the inboard framing detail of the kit Transom configuration is a little sparse, having only the four vertical counter timbers, which are either side of the stern ports.

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Using Boxwood strip I added the transom beam which runs across the top of the gun ports, and a Tafferal capping strip.

1464

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Fixing Capping rails to the transom involves an eclectic mix of  clamping items.
 
These small additions, replicate more accurately the stern framing of the cutter, and imho greatly improve the look of the model, or will once I've fettled it.

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The modifications require making new side pieces including the crutch. The original piece is shown in the centre.

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These are attached to the transom  and will be fine tuned  on the model.

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A second layer lower Side piece is glued to the hull. These are quite intricate pieces that butt up to the upright and curve and twist down to meet the wale aft edge.

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Still very much wip but  it is progressing as I hoped, and with the structure now there I can decide on the paint scheme and add the second layer wale timbers.
 
B.E.
05/08/2019
 
 

Hi Again TLS ..  Welcome back and I hope the Wee Hollier went well..         Great start as Edward (above) says..  If you are worried about getting the right amount of beveling/sanding on the Bulkheads, lay a test strip of planking along them and you should see where it meets the individual bulkheads (probably only hits them at the corners near the bow) you can then judge how much to bevel to let the test plank sit flush/or more naturally from Bulkhead to Bulkhead,  re-test as you go along (moving the test plank down the bulkheads towards the keel)
You are probably already doing this, so forgive me for mentioning it 🙃
 
All The Best Mate
 
Eamonn

Looking at Steel's expanded planking plan really helped improve my plan. I discovered the following "rules" in his plan:
   1) A butt can fall over the top of a port, if it is at least two planks away from the port
  2) A butt can fall beside a port, if it is at least 2 feet away.
  3)  butts do not necessarily line up vertically; they shift from the normal spot if needed to follow the previous two rules
  4) wood is "worked up or down" to a port if the line of the plank is within 8" of the port.
  5) the black strake as well as the channel wale can be worked up or down.
  6) planks can go as long as 32' if needed to meet the previous rules
 
I also discovered the sheer strake, the one just below the planksheer at midships. It is not called out in the Lavery's Bellona drawings, but it shows in Steel and in David Antscherl's FFM Vol. II p. 21. This is an inch thicker than adjacent planks, and has a hook scarph at midships. I have highlighted it in orange in the drawing below.
 
And I discovered that the planking when worked up or down, falls about 1 ½" below the cill of the port. This implies that the port stop is the cill itself, and the planking drops below it to form the rabbet for the port lid. But Steel's planking plan does not show the same rabbet at the sides. So maybe the port stops are added at the sides?
 
And finally I discovered that the channel wales, if planked in three strakes as defined in most sources, causes the deadeye chain links bolts to fall on a planking seam. That doesn't make sense, but the original Bellona drawings clearly show these lining up one third of the way along the channel wale. Any thoughts about this?
 
So, I present my planking plan, version 2, below. I believe it follows all of the rules for planking that I have discovered, except for the curiosity of the channel wale chain link bolts.
 
Mark

Hi All,
Today l have started the first stage of the build. I have been away for a few days and have been looking forward to returning and, indeed, to getting a grip with the Sherbourne. 
Building the framework is very much the same as the Ballahoo, the difference this time being that l have learnt some lessons.
1. I have not fitted the keel, l believe l will produce better results if l fit the keel after l have planked and sanded.
2. I have cut the bearding line so won't have to sand the planks wafer thin.
3. I have assembled the bulkheads before beveling, l was rather enthusiastic with my beveling last time and had to build up some areas. By doing it this way l believe l will be more precise, we shall see. (Fingers crossed)
Best wishes as always. 
The Lazy Saint. 
 

Hello, everyone, we haven't updated the development progress for a long time. When we produce metal parts, we find that one part has been unable to meet our requirements. This problem will be solved in the next few days. We tested a blackening agent for zinc alloy. Here we share it with you. It consists of three parts, 1. Surface activation (I personally think low concentration hydrochloric acid) 2. Blackening agent (I don't know what ingredients) 3. Surface isolator (similar to varnish), because the liquid can't be mailed, I think you can buy similar products locally. The development is expected to be completed in the next week. Thank you again for your attention.

Thank you guys. I will keep the cutter in for the kit. This one I have tried to design to be as easy and as painless as possible to put together, but at the same time, keep all of the detail. This does mean it will be a little more expensive though (especially with the 34 cast resin cannon barrels and laser engraved deck..), but I think it's worth it if people enjoy building it, and it looks nice once complete.
 
Regarding Agamemnon, I think I am edging towards the idea that it did have 7 windows, rather than 8. I know that when I designed my first one 2 decades ago, this info wasn't so easily accessible, so we ordered the Aggy plans, which have no stern detail, and I used paintings and the Bellona book to fill in the gaps. I would never do that now. Hell, I even ordered the Speedy upper deck plan after the main lines because I couldn't quite make out what the hatch was near the stern (turned out to be the bread hatch). I know Bristol (Portland class 50 gun ships) had 7 windows, but that is a full 14 foot shorter in keel length. I have double checked all available plans on the NMM site, and the Indi is the only one of the Ardent class of 64's that shows the stern. I feel that logically, knowing this, I should go with that. If there were alterations after the drafts, then surely they would have been highlighted on the plans?
 
How many paintings, even the most famous, have we seen of ships we know well, Victory especially, where the details show them at a much later stage in their careers than they should be at the time of the battle depicted?
 
I have attached a copy of the full lines plan for Indie.

Bruce, I do not mind at all! This is why I put it to you guys on here, who may have more ideas or information than me. Getting the stern right on these ships is important, I just want to ensure all bases are covered regarding research and the correct conclusions - or, as correct as one can hope for.
 
Right, I think I have gone as far as I can with the Speedy build, as I am waiting for the missing 0.4mm PE parts that include the pump, deadeye strops and other things. Here is where I am at, the cannons are not glued in place as I need to add deadeyes and chain plates first. I have my painted Cochrane figure standing on the deck.
 
The cutter took around two days, and I have positioned it between for the fore and aft hatches, on chocks high enough that the keel clears the combings by a healthy margin. Should I keep this in the kit, does it look OK?
 
I took a couple of shots almost side on, so you can see the great curves, more elegant than the later variants. The stand should be crystal clear, but it is a sacrificial building stand, and I sprayed varnish on it... 

Have been back onto the Speedy over the past couple of days, after sorting some stuff for the third kit. Have been building the little cutter - damn why did I think it was a good idea to include this, they are so fiddly! Almost finished though, two a half days! I think that if I had the right software, I would design the shell to be cast in resin and offer it as an alternative, hate doing these, but they do look nice on the model when complete..

As promised, some photos from yesterday's trip
 
Didn't really appreciate the size of her, absolutely massive when up close