Wintergreen

Hi there,
Just found this log and since both volumes of Euryalus sits on my shelf I thought it useful to bring a chair and a bowl of popcorn to follow along here.
Looks like you off to a good start Ron. Nice and neat work this far.
 
Keep it up!

Model looks great.  I hope the treatments work for you and you make a full recovery.

I hope you are right, druxey!   Paul, yes, I made the clamps--credit goes to Ed Tosti, you can find them on his build log for Naiad.
 
While most of my work this week has been on Oneida, I have spent some time slowly sanding the bollard timbers to fay to the stem.
 
They need to match the concave taper of the upper stem--
 

 

 
 
Still some work needed, but they are getting close.   The overall width is constant now at the head and foot of the assembly--
 

 
 
Once I have them tapered correctly to the stem, I'll start roughly beveling them forward, and at the foot where they meet the lower apron.
 
Ron 

I completed #5 (glue the boxing joint), and I'm not sure how this happened, but it was not glued precisely correctly.  The upper end of the stem was not quite far enough forward.  I'm mystified by this, as it was good when I glued and clamped it.   Wishing not to start off on the wrong foot, I made the decision to re-glue it.  For the first time (and not the last, be assured), the isopropyl alcohol comes out--
 

 
 
With the tinted glue, this is not a pretty sight--
 

 
 
In cleaning up the residue, I kind of massacred the joint.  This is a shame, as it will be visible.  After re-gluing, the boxing joint doesn't look bad, but the first attempt looked almost perfect, though it was unfortunately "off" somehow.  The re-glued stem positioning looks good though, and this is probably more important than the boxing joint LOOKING perfect; but it better not somehow change again overnight!!
 
Here is the newly glued stem, and the blanks for the bollard timbers cut out.  The paper pattern is on the underside of the bollard timbers, but the picture was better showing the wood side--
 

 
 
Ron
 
 

I have chosen my poison.  It is a mixture of the TFFM, Naiad, and Euryalus poisons; we'll see if it does me in.
 
The order of immediate business will be thus:
 
1) Taper the keel fore and aft
2) Glue the upper apron on the stem
3) Trim and angle the top of the stem
4) Taper the stem
5) Glue the boxing joint, attaching the stem (minus the lower apron)
6) Make the bollard timbers
7) Using the bollard timbers, verify and cut the bearding line in the lower apron
😎 Glue the lower apron on  [sorry "8" then ")" gives me "😎" and I can't seem to get rid of it]
9) Make and glue the sternpost, inner sternpost, and deadwood
10) Make and glue the rising wood
11) Cut the keel and stem rabbet 
 
The Knee of the Head can be assembled at any time, but it will not be permanently attached until after the hawse timber work is done.
 
At this time I have done #1 (keel tapering), #2 (upper apron glued), and #3 (stem end angle).
 
I am most of the way through #4 (tapering the stem)
 

 

 
 
On the paper pattern of the Lower Apron, about an inch away from the end, I have marked the end of the bearding line with a pencil (it didn't print on my pattern).  Forward of that line, the Lower Apron will match the width of the stem, and aft it will be wider, and shaped to make the bearding line "step". 
 

 

 

 
 
I still have a bit of sanding to get the taper to the right thickness around the middle of the stem.  To help judge the taper, I held the stem over the end view of it on the plans.  Panic.  On the drawing the upper end of the stem is wider (by about 1.5 inches) than my stem.   How did I get this wrong?!!!!   I went back and checked the Euryalus text, and the Naiad text and Naiad drawings (since up to now, sided dimensions have been identical).   The Euryalus text calls for the stem to be 20" at the upper end, which is what I have.   So there seems to be a discrepancy here.    Naiad also calls for 20".   I think I am okay then, and this will just make the bollard timbers each .75 inches wider at the top, to compensate (at least as they are shown on the drawings, which show the stem head at about 21.5 inches).   They'll actually be closer in width to the rest of the hawse timbers in that case.  Panic relieved, unless someone points out an error in my analysis of this.
 
I've also cut out some future work, though I'm not quite ready for these yet--according to my poison plan.
 

 
 
Ron
 
 

I came downstairs this morning, and the sunlight was peeping through a curtained window--
 

 
 
I had placed the Scale Captain there last night!
 
Ron

I have spent a lot of time on the boxing joint.  It is dry fit here.  The stem is now centered side-to-side, and reaches the forward point as it should--
 
 
 
 
A close-up shows that there is some final tidying up of the upper curve to do, as it reaches the aft end of the joint--
 

 
 
Here it is after that final shaping has been done--
 

 

 
 
There are still many pieces to be shaped and fit before the boxing joint can be glued.  The next piece will be the tricky lower apron, and here it is roughly cut out, and and held in place against the stem and keel to test its initial fit--
 

 
 
I  have also marked and drilled the holes for the keel scarf bolts, and lightly marked the rabbet line--
 

 
 
Ron

Problem fixed!
 

 
Or you could simply have cropped the image yourself!

I've worked on the stem scarfs.  
 
Here are the three stem pieces test fit together against the drawing--
 
 
 
 
And a look at the joints--
 

 
 
These are just being test fit, and the shadow on the first (upper) joint is due to the upper stem piece being wider than the rest, to allow for the stem taper.
 
In this photo, the scarf between the lower and middle stem has been glued, and paper shims are being used to (hopefully) maintain the alignment as the scarf between the middle and upper stem is glued--
 
 
 
 
Now I can test fit the stem to the boxing joint and get a rough look at what needs to be refined.  There is a lean to starboard that will need to be corrected as the joint is made--
 

 
 

 
 
I have to say, that tree trunk is distracting!!
 
 
Ron

Thanks, druxey.  The bar is high, and I am trying!
 
The false keel is glued, one piece at a time.  I am using pigmented glue in the joints, and the first few times were a mess, but I am getting better at judging how much glue needs to be used, and how to keep it relatively clean. --
 

 

 
 
The final false keel piece glued.--
 

 
 
The basic keel assembly is glued.  It hasn't been tapered yet at the bow or stern, nor scarf bolts installed, or rabbet cut.  I have cut out the stem and apron pieces, and am getting ready to cut the stern deadwood.--
 

 
 
The boxing joint is done, I mistakenly didn't angle it as the scarfs are, but as it won't be seen, that's okay.--
 

 
 
Ron

Rick, generally, counting the chocks, either 9 or 11 pieces.  They form a pair together, though they need to be built and installed separately.
 
Allan, the sawdust and chips are pretty well relegated to the workshop (at least so far), but the exercise point is well taken!
 
After dry fitting, and adjusting each scarf to make sure the overall length is correct, I have glued the keel pieces together except for the formost.  Still working on the boxing joint and scarf for that one.   The keel height dimension (is that the sided or molded dimension?--I should know that) has been sanded to the final 15".  The width is still 16-17".   The false keel pieces have been cut out and dry fit.  They will be glued one at a time to the keel.--
 

 

 

 
 
Both the foremost keel piece and false keel piece are being left a little long until final shaping of the boxing joint and scarf, then they will be trimmed to length and glued.  Then the assembled keel width will be sanded to the final 15" dimension.
 
Sorry for the poor photos-a mixture of poor light, and different color light sources causing white balance issues.  
 
Ron

So, here I am 5 months later...
Have I managed with any progress on the little build? In fact, yes. But only in the last weeks. 
Apart from the usual sailing around the Swedish archipelago, a spell with the dreaded c-illnes stirred up my fall. Treatment to commence soon. Whish me luck. The forecast looks good though. It was diagnosed at an early stage and all that, and I'm not too worried to be honest. It does have an impact nevertheless and I'm not looking forward to the cyto treatment. Yuck.
 
Anyway, when I left you for summer activities I had just started with the rudder. Gudgeons and pintles, hum, I don't know if that's what they are called on small craft as well. The gudgeon is doubled to prevent the rudder from unshipping. The reason must be that the mizzen tackle is fastened at the aft end of the rudder. And that is because the mizzen sail needs a boom that extends beyond the aft end.
Parts are painted and then the wood is oiled with paraffine oil. It gives a nice tan to the wood I think.

 

 
With the rudder in place I'm in for all the "bits and pieces", like oars (or sweeps if you prefer). The book mentions that a single pair was delivered with the boat. But it can obviously take four pairs, so I settled for an in between decision of two pairs.
IRL measurement is 12 feet long. In scale that is 122 mm. The handle diameter is about 45mm IRL (1.5mm scale). The blade width is 5 1/4 " (about 4,5mm).
First picture depicts three stages of construction.
Second pic, lazily stowed in the boat. The chafe protection is just painted 😉 

 

 
Next up will be mast and spars. 
well, the masts are already made but they need some tackles and stuff. 
And sails.
And sprit poles.
Enough to keep me occupied and out of the deep dark pool of thoughts.
 
Til next time - ta!
 
 

Thanks, Ed.  I will continue work on Oneida.  It would be unacceptable to abandon her at this point!  
 
I plan to use Swiss Pear for the framing.  The stock I have is a light shade--not as dark as most I see.  Hopefully this will not cause problems down the road (when I run out and have to restock).  Castello Boxwood for hull planking and carvings, and maybe Holly for deck planking.  I'm not sure, will have to see how it looks.  Black will be "ebonized" pear, as I did on Oneida.  I'm very happy with the way that looks.
 
Still using hand tools, though I have also become a Byrne's customer!
 
Right now this is taking shape in my living room.  This is one advantage to being single!--
 

 

 
 
I don't have a place for it in my regular workshop.  I'm running up and down the stairs (my workshop is upstairs) constantly.  Eventually I'm going to have to fit it in my workshop somehow.   Ah, that's why I should finish Oneida sooner rather than later.
 
I have the gantry mostly complete, have installed a sternpost support, have trued two more of the keel scarfs, and worked on the boxing joint a bit.--
 

 
 
The last three keel pieces lie true, and you can see I have work to do on the forward two scarfs.--
 

 
 
Ron

Work continues--
 
I have fastened the layout plan to the baseboard, though I had some issues when I sprayed a matte protective finish over it.  The protective spray seemed to weaken the spray adhesive underneath, and in the high humidity of recent days I have some bubbles in some areas.   I don't think it is a problem, but I am considering taking the plan off, re-copying it on heavier paper, and trying again.
 
I built two clamp squares (a sliding gantry will also be built), and cut out the 6 keel pieces.  They are slightly oversized—especially the foremost which will receive the boxing joint. The keel alignment pieces are adjustable and can be snugged up when the keel is finished to its final width--
 
 
 
 
I cut the keel scarf edges with a razor saw--
 

 
 
And after cutting the long angle roughly on a bandsaw, worked to smooth and true it with a chisel and files--
 

 
 
The scarf between 6 and 5 is ready to be glued, but that won't happen until the rest are also ready--
 

 
 
I have also made a few "Tosti" clamps (of the simpler "basic" variety), which I plan to use to clamp the keel pieces together when they are ready--
 

 

 
 
Ron
 
 
 
 
 

Looking good Vaddoc!
And I feel your pain when you realized exactly what piece you maimed. Ouch.
 
Keep it up!

Hi 😊
Tanks Justin, tanks Allan, and tanks to all
 

Hi, and tanks to all  😊
 
 

Tanks to all 💗
 
 
 
 

So, here I am 5 months later...
Have I managed with any progress on the little build? In fact, yes. But only in the last weeks. 
Apart from the usual sailing around the Swedish archipelago, a spell with the dreaded c-illnes stirred up my fall. Treatment to commence soon. Whish me luck. The forecast looks good though. It was diagnosed at an early stage and all that, and I'm not too worried to be honest. It does have an impact nevertheless and I'm not looking forward to the cyto treatment. Yuck.
 
Anyway, when I left you for summer activities I had just started with the rudder. Gudgeons and pintles, hum, I don't know if that's what they are called on small craft as well. The gudgeon is doubled to prevent the rudder from unshipping. The reason must be that the mizzen tackle is fastened at the aft end of the rudder. And that is because the mizzen sail needs a boom that extends beyond the aft end.
Parts are painted and then the wood is oiled with paraffine oil. It gives a nice tan to the wood I think.

 

 
With the rudder in place I'm in for all the "bits and pieces", like oars (or sweeps if you prefer). The book mentions that a single pair was delivered with the boat. But it can obviously take four pairs, so I settled for an in between decision of two pairs.
IRL measurement is 12 feet long. In scale that is 122 mm. The handle diameter is about 45mm IRL (1.5mm scale). The blade width is 5 1/4 " (about 4,5mm).
First picture depicts three stages of construction.
Second pic, lazily stowed in the boat. The chafe protection is just painted 😉 

 

 
Next up will be mast and spars. 
well, the masts are already made but they need some tackles and stuff. 
And sails.
And sprit poles.
Enough to keep me occupied and out of the deep dark pool of thoughts.
 
Til next time - ta!
 
 

Hi 😊

Hi ☺️
 
 

Hi 😊

Hi ☺️

Hi 😊

Hi 😊