Wintergreen

Hi Mike, to add  to your LED update, as a comparison:
-my bridgeport milling machine  came with a fluorescent light close to the cutter
-2 examples of working lights: on the working table and on the ceiling
 
The best working light you can get are effectively LED lights. The best ones come from photography. You do not really need to adjust the color temperature, it is better to choose one with only daylight which will give a constant light as if you were working outside during the day, this way you will always see the real color of what you are working.
 
It is preferable to have an adjustment for the intensity of the light.
If you want to get rid of the shadows when you are working, you position one light on both sides
The foot of the light is what you could call a universal position adjustment.
 
Continue your good work.

Beam arms
Beautiful piece of the deck structure, was waiting for this moment for a while!
Tried to use my fancy Vallorbe files, but the easiest way to shape these was a coarse sanding stick followed by a quick pass with finer grit. Then scraping to flatten the edge - and you get a fine finish with very little effort. Just need to be mindful of grain direction to not scrape against the grain  

Joints are milled, of course. That kind of precision work is where a mill really shines!

Speaking of milling - I added a crudely made light into my Proxxon MF70. It is based on strange 3d model that I found online, trimmed off all the strange bits and glued in a cheap USB-powered LED strip, cut into short pieces and soldered with dodgy cuts of solid wire. It works, excellent value for money!
Can definitely recommend to spend time on making your own, one of these "I should have done that sooner" moments. There is nothing off the shelf that you can buy for MF70, only some dim LED ring on ebay for way too much money.

In other LED updates - got a lamp similar to the one recommended by Chuck (amazon/aliexpress, 50 USD, likely same manufacturer, but smaller size). It is awesome! Angled "ears" allow you to illuminate the piece from multiple angles, which is very handy when carving notches. The light quality (colours, flickering) is very good in my unscientific tests, and makes for a good photo light. The adjustable arm is solid (joints not too tight, not too loose, very elegant), and it is not an eyesore. A lot of adjustability and tilting angles. More than enough brightness, and the adjustable colour temperature is handy. The only downside is that the touch controls are facing forward, so I touch them by accident way too often  

The arms are slightly curved to follow the deck shape. I over-curved them at first, but luckily had enough margin to smoothen them with some battens. The resulting curve is very gentle:

And here they finally glued in. Actually the first part of the deck that is now permanently glued in place! I am avoiding the final glueup as much as possible, feels much better when everything is dry fit  

Now I have a pile of carlings ready for installation

And here they are all in place!
Notches on the exposed side are left empty to avoid obstructing the view. I might put some carlings into them later.
They needed more care than the non-empty notches, since you want all notch surfaces to look smooth and pretty, no chance to cover them with a carling later on. So I was cutting a smaller notch and then make a few final cuts once it is done, cutting off any tear-out.

That concludes the carling phase, next in line are the lodging/hanging knees and ledges!

Thank you for all there Christmas and New Year messages, much appreciated.
 
Well the grandchildren are gone and the weather has turned very wintery. The workshop is currently at 5 deg C - 41 deg F so my time working is somewhat limited. I have however been progressing the aft guest cabin.
 
I needed a couple more bedside lights.

I also started gluing the mahogany doors to the various panelled walls, followed by door knobs, handles, lamps etc. I also made the large mirror ( currently protected by blue masking tape).

With the panels completed I was able to glue them in place with PVA - using more Starbuck sticks and various clamps to hold them.




The side panels for the bunks and the various door fronts, shelves etc, went in next. The step (bottom left in the next photo is my best guess at what this area looks like. As explained earlier I don't have any photo's of this location.


Next a bit more carpeting. The floor has a slight step in it, presumably to accommodate the curvature of the hull or to trip up the mother in law. (see later comment).

With everything in place I did a few shots with the phone camera (restricted by quite limited access).


Once again I forgot to clean out the dust.




The following it the best shot I could get of the portholes.

I then glued in the external port holes (made earlier).

Re the floor step. I once spent 2 weeks in the Caribbean on a Dufour charter yacht. I learned to hate it. One of its design innovations was to mount the hot water tank below the starboard bunk. This would have been fine in the arctic but in the Caribbean it rendered it totally unbearable. Unfortunately I drew the short straw and hence spent the fortnight sleeping on deck. This however wasn't its most wonderful design feature.  The designer had managed to place a shallow step right across the middle of the cabin (presumably to gain a little addition head height). The step was perfectly positioned to catch the unwary crew member every time they either ascended or descended the steps to the deck. Everyone at some time ended up sprawled across the cabin floor or with their heads wedged between the ladder rung, both events being accompanied by choice expletives. 
 

Thank you John and Andy and all for their "likes".
 
So, just a couple-three pictures to show what we all are so familiar with.
Here I'm closing up the deck between the main hatch and the forward hatch/companionway.
First try.

Doesn't look all that bad, right?
 
Well, here is the evidense that I can do better 😉
"50" stands for half a millimeter, (1/32").

2nd try, a little while later and no gauge fits in between.

Well, that was the easy part of the deck... next up I will close the foredeck. But that's a chore for another day.
 
Cheers!

Greetings to all!
Just some progres pictures here. I am in for a treat trying to close the deck while keeping it fair and a smooth run for each plank.



Cheers!

Mike, I just follow the book. In it it states that the planks are 120 mm wide, out of keroueng/keruing (teak look-alike). Sine they are laid swept I guess 120mm is quite enough to force into place. My skills att laying deck however, lacks a bit of finesse, will see how it turns out in the end. Probably will have to add a good amount of stuff on the deck to hide it...

Ah; chip happens!

Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
some update pics
The Taffrail has been drilled and pinned to the stern, and the counter timbers have been cut back to a proper termination level.

The Griffon/Gryphon carvings are coming along but at such a small scale I wonder if I just need more practice or should I use a different wood — Castello versus boxwood basswood (Linden), as I've already lost a hind foot!

I tried using rotary cutters but reverted to mini chisels.
We'll have to wait and see how the head turns out!
🤔

Mike, I just follow the book. In it it states that the planks are 120 mm wide, out of keroueng/keruing (teak look-alike). Sine they are laid swept I guess 120mm is quite enough to force into place. My skills att laying deck however, lacks a bit of finesse, will see how it turns out in the end. Probably will have to add a good amount of stuff on the deck to hide it...

Greetings to all!
Just some progres pictures here. I am in for a treat trying to close the deck while keeping it fair and a smooth run for each plank.



Cheers!

Mike, I just follow the book. In it it states that the planks are 120 mm wide, out of keroueng/keruing (teak look-alike). Sine they are laid swept I guess 120mm is quite enough to force into place. My skills att laying deck however, lacks a bit of finesse, will see how it turns out in the end. Probably will have to add a good amount of stuff on the deck to hide it...

Mike, I just follow the book. In it it states that the planks are 120 mm wide, out of keroueng/keruing (teak look-alike). Sine they are laid swept I guess 120mm is quite enough to force into place. My skills att laying deck however, lacks a bit of finesse, will see how it turns out in the end. Probably will have to add a good amount of stuff on the deck to hide it...

Mike, I just follow the book. In it it states that the planks are 120 mm wide, out of keroueng/keruing (teak look-alike). Sine they are laid swept I guess 120mm is quite enough to force into place. My skills att laying deck however, lacks a bit of finesse, will see how it turns out in the end. Probably will have to add a good amount of stuff on the deck to hide it...

So happy to see an update from you!
Interesting contrast between the beefy beams and slim deck planks. Do you know what was behind that practice? Availability of wood? It probably triples the number of seams that need to be caulked, maintained, can leak, etc...
 
Happy New Year, let the new one be trouble-free and full of build progress!   

Greetings to all!
Just some progres pictures here. I am in for a treat trying to close the deck while keeping it fair and a smooth run for each plank.



Cheers!

Thank you @KeithAug  🙂 
I wish you a Happy ending of 2025 and a Happy new 2026!

Greetings to all!
Just some progres pictures here. I am in for a treat trying to close the deck while keeping it fair and a smooth run for each plank.



Cheers!

Thank you John and Andy and all for their "likes".
 
So, just a couple-three pictures to show what we all are so familiar with.
Here I'm closing up the deck between the main hatch and the forward hatch/companionway.
First try.

Doesn't look all that bad, right?
 
Well, here is the evidense that I can do better 😉
"50" stands for half a millimeter, (1/32").

2nd try, a little while later and no gauge fits in between.

Well, that was the easy part of the deck... next up I will close the foredeck. But that's a chore for another day.
 
Cheers!

Well, I probably have to eat my hat for being so bold to state that the ice age soon would be over. I don't know if our weather news makes out of Sweden, anyway, the current state is that there is about 20cm/8" of snow in my garden. Temperatures has been in the -5 to -15 ballpark for the last weeks. There was quite a hola balo in the southern part of my country a couple of weeks ago when about 100 cars and lorries got stuck on a highway. They had to send in the forces with band wagons and stuff to evaquate people, leaving the vehicles for later. Just sayin.
 
Despite that, there has been progress on the planking saga!


Port side fully planked bar the bulwarks.

And some closeups before sanding and making it all pretty.


I've continued with treenailing port side and will soon be over and done with that too. Then there are three strakes on startboard before the sanding can begin.
That is for another day.
Pax et bonum!

Thank you @KeithAug  🙂 
I wish you a Happy ending of 2025 and a Happy new 2026!

Thank you @KeithAug  🙂 
I wish you a Happy ending of 2025 and a Happy new 2026!

Very nicely done.

Greetings to all!
Just some progres pictures here. I am in for a treat trying to close the deck while keeping it fair and a smooth run for each plank.



Cheers!

Nothing short of excellent!
Your build is an inspiration, thank you!
 
Keep it up!

Nothing short of excellent!
Your build is an inspiration, thank you!
 
Keep it up!