Wintergreen

So, was a bit creative the last day...bought a stove good for 2,5 hp (funny, you never relate to electric equipment that generates heat in horsepower...always the dull kW...) "My heatgun can blast at 2 hp!" Nope, you never hear that.
 
Anyway, a couple of pictures. The construction was straight forward. No glue, just stainless steel patio screws. The lid was firstly put on to tight so I had to rearrange the hinges at add a sealing profile. Drilled a 10 mm hole in the far end of the lid also to let the steam out. The box is 90 cm long, inside height 45 mm and inside width ca 55 mm.
 

 
And the inside. Planks rests on elevated bamboo skewers.
 

 
Finally, take two on the first plank. In a gleaming "time to lock up and go inside" kind of light.
 

 
 

Hi Carl, sorry for my absence...work took the better part of my life during spring so no time in the shop at all. Not even time to live, wich is sad. However, I have been compensated
The boat sits nicely on my carpenters bench, waiting, probably as you do too...any day (week, month) now, I will get back to it.

Finally a long overdue update. My KF got little attention lately as work and other (fun) projects got in the way.
 
I cut all the mortices for the carlings in the upper deck beams and started to make the first of the knee's and hanging knees. These are not one of my favourite parts to make and unfortunately every beam has a hanging knee. This is due to the heavy load on the deck with all the canons. I'll stick to my mantra and go step by step or part by part in this case
 

 

 

 

 

 
Remco

That's the thing with a great tutor. Even if you read it yourself a couple of times it's not until someone puts it into reference that you fully understand.
(just got the whole width of stopwaters myself...).

Small update...
After doing the forward outer bulwarks several times, this is best I have at the moment.  I'm going to revisit these again after the rear outer bulwards are done and if I have to, again after the planking.  I find my skills just aren't quite where I want them in going from 1 plank width to 3 with some compound curves tossed in for good measure.
 
On the plus side, they look a darn sight better than they did the first couple of  times I did them. Also, they will end up with carvings, a channel, and deadeyes, maybe an anchor in front of them.  They feel smooth to the touch but to my eye, they look funky.  Hahn just used a single plank which at full size would have been 8" at the aft end and about 24" at the other.
 
I'm thinking I'll learn a little something doing the stern ones at this point as they go from 8" to 16" without the compound curves so I'll be able to practice some more on doing stealers.  Not there yet.. but working on it.
 

Ah.. update sooner than I thought.  Got the anchor planking done on the starboard side.  I've ripped off the wales and redid them.  Have one small area I'm not thrilled with in the pearwood part.  But I think I can fix that with some more sanding.  I'll sort it out when I go to plank that area.   Next in line is to continue up the rail (cutline).  I won't be cutting her free though for quite a while as like the security of the jig. 
 

I've planked the starboard side gun port strip and on both sides added the ebony chain wale and the ebony bow area planking.  There's two areas that are unplanked in the chain wale where the channels will fit.  Things look wet because of the first coat of wipe-on poly.
 
Footnote.. I'm more than a bit chuffed as the chain wales (port and starboard) are within 2 scale inches of each other.
 
I'll now go around to the other side, and sand the ebony bow planking.  It's there but really rough before the next update.
 

Hi everyone,
 
At last, the woodwork is done on the carriages. I am showing all 28, fully assembled and together for the first time. I still have to glue the quoins to the beds, but I realized that I will need to do that individually to ensure that all muzzles are neatly aligned for height. I have to think about a helpful jig.
 
I now have to start all of the metalwork, following my prototype in the last two photos.
 
In the second photo, I am showing how I used my beam measuring tool to set a distance for cutting wooden pins to a constant length. I had to pin the axles and the transom to the carriage sides, and this helped enormously to cut out a large number to the right length as opposed to measuring each one.
 
Getting closer, still a long way to go.
 
Mark

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 118 – Chain Pipes/Catheads/Topgallant Rail
 
Not a great deal of progress to report – just trying to get the model to the scope of volume I of the book.  The first picture shows the second chain pipe being inserted.  These reach down to the hold where the chain was stored.  From these openings the chain was run forward around the winch to the hawse holes.
 

 
In the next picture blanks for the catheads have been fitted.  The fancy rail is cut out where these pass through.  They will bolt through carlings on the inboard ends and into the framing at the side.
 

 
While sheaves were being cut into the catheads the pieces of the forecastle topgallant rail were cut, boiled and put into the fixture shown below to dry.
 

 
The rail will consist of a central bulwark plank with strips attached to the top on either side to simulate a thin top rail – much easier that to bend the 2” rail on its edge.  Sanding and painting make it look like a single rail – much like the multi-part rails along the sides.  In the next picture the rail has been assembled -  including short stanchions on the inside – and is being glued to the fancy rail.
 

 
Paint was scaped from the fancy rail for this.  The topgallant rail was then bolted through the pinholes, finish sanded and painted – as shown in the last picture.
 

 
This picture also shows the finished catheads installed – with their American plaque emblems painted on the ends.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 117 – Poop Deck/Fancy Rail
 
In the first picture, the aft section of the margin plank is pinned in place against the tops of the stern timbers.
 

 
This piece has a hook scarph on each end.  The rudder post will be cut off later.  This picture also shows the framing of the boomkins and aft mooring bits.  In the next picture the next section of margin plank is being fitted to the hook scarph on the aft section and around the mooring bits.
 

 
In the next picture the poop margin planks have been fitted forward to the breast beam and the aft sections of fancy rail are pinned in place.
 

 
The fancy rail forms a cap over the stern timbers, deck margin plank and the top strakes of planking around the stern.  The coamings for the two skylights are pinned in place for fitting the head ledges.  In the next picture, the poop deck has been planked – leaving open areas to view the cabins underneath – and the skylight coamings are in place.
 

 
The fancy rail has again been pinned in place.  To keep water out of the cabin deck this had to be caulked inside and out.  To have sufficient overlap of the poop margin plank, it was made 15" wide – as on the forecastle.  I stepped these rails down to 12" along the main deck.
 
The next picture shows the painted parts of the fancy rail being installed.
 

 
The step down in breadth on the forward piece can just be seen at the break of the poop in this picture.  I spent quite a bit of time deciding how to handle this fancy rail width issue.  Most midship sections show a narrow rail – about 12" – but I finally decided this would not provide sufficient overlap of the poop and forecastle margin planks.  So, another one of those judgment decisions.
 
The next picture shows the fancy rail fully installed aft of midship. 
 

 
After painting, the sections were glued and pinned.  As the pins were removed, copper wired epoxied bolts were installed down into each toptimber to reinforce the attachment.  The bolts were filed off and the top of the rail received more finish painting.  And the next picture shows it at the bow. 
 

 
The last picture shows the model with the completed fancy rail. 
 

 
I have been looking forward for a long time to the capping off of those toptimbers.
 
Ed

Ah, haven't realized until today that this little beauty was back online
 
Good to see you back here David!
Keep it up mate

Hi everyone,
 
I managed to stain and assemble the carriages for the entire port battery. Starting to look like a busy gundeck. Much iron work and casting still to do...
 
Mark

Hi everyone,
 
A long time away from the shop; pesky real work gets in the way...
 
I am zeroing in on these cannon. I think my sludge problem was from using an electric melting pot with a cast iron ladle; somehow the cast iron polluted the pewter. So I switched to a Lee bottom pour melting pot, and it works very well. No sludge, no dross to skim off the top.
 
I have also learned to leave the pour in the mould for maybe 5 minutes. Pulling it earlier leaves small pockets in the cast where the metal pulls away from the mould before it is fully solidified. the photo of the cast cannon also shows that I changed my gunhead to look something more like the 18th century engravings showing gun casting. I don't know if it makes any difference, but it saves the amount of pewter I pour.
 
I built a little collar to clamp the cannon in the lathe for cleaning up the muzzle and drilling the bore. I am showing how I clamp the extension of the bore from the cast into a small Jacobs chuck, to ensure the muzzle is centered in the lathe.
 
And a few shots of the red carriages starting to line up. The jig shows the tedious masking on the carriage parts to ensure a clean glue surface.
 
Mark
 

So, first 2 + 2 strakes on. Not without a struggle though. And as they say on the tube "mind the gap"
Nothing a good sanding and filler wont hide so I am happy for the time being.
 
Next up I need to make some dummy frames to clamp to the floor board. Otherwise I guess I will be in too much trouble fitting planks. Speaking of which, the steam chest worked like a charm. I know from reading that oak bends really well when steamed, but it was still fun to see with my own eyes.
 
From a couple of different angles, here is the evidence.
 

 

 

So, first 2 + 2 strakes on. Not without a struggle though. And as they say on the tube "mind the gap"
Nothing a good sanding and filler wont hide so I am happy for the time being.
 
Next up I need to make some dummy frames to clamp to the floor board. Otherwise I guess I will be in too much trouble fitting planks. Speaking of which, the steam chest worked like a charm. I know from reading that oak bends really well when steamed, but it was still fun to see with my own eyes.
 
From a couple of different angles, here is the evidence.
 

 

 

So, first 2 + 2 strakes on. Not without a struggle though. And as they say on the tube "mind the gap"
Nothing a good sanding and filler wont hide so I am happy for the time being.
 
Next up I need to make some dummy frames to clamp to the floor board. Otherwise I guess I will be in too much trouble fitting planks. Speaking of which, the steam chest worked like a charm. I know from reading that oak bends really well when steamed, but it was still fun to see with my own eyes.
 
From a couple of different angles, here is the evidence.
 

 

 

So, first 2 + 2 strakes on. Not without a struggle though. And as they say on the tube "mind the gap"
Nothing a good sanding and filler wont hide so I am happy for the time being.
 
Next up I need to make some dummy frames to clamp to the floor board. Otherwise I guess I will be in too much trouble fitting planks. Speaking of which, the steam chest worked like a charm. I know from reading that oak bends really well when steamed, but it was still fun to see with my own eyes.
 
From a couple of different angles, here is the evidence.
 

 

 

So, first 2 + 2 strakes on. Not without a struggle though. And as they say on the tube "mind the gap"
Nothing a good sanding and filler wont hide so I am happy for the time being.
 
Next up I need to make some dummy frames to clamp to the floor board. Otherwise I guess I will be in too much trouble fitting planks. Speaking of which, the steam chest worked like a charm. I know from reading that oak bends really well when steamed, but it was still fun to see with my own eyes.
 
From a couple of different angles, here is the evidence.
 

 

 

So, first 2 + 2 strakes on. Not without a struggle though. And as they say on the tube "mind the gap"
Nothing a good sanding and filler wont hide so I am happy for the time being.
 
Next up I need to make some dummy frames to clamp to the floor board. Otherwise I guess I will be in too much trouble fitting planks. Speaking of which, the steam chest worked like a charm. I know from reading that oak bends really well when steamed, but it was still fun to see with my own eyes.
 
From a couple of different angles, here is the evidence.
 

 

 

So, was a bit creative the last day...bought a stove good for 2,5 hp (funny, you never relate to electric equipment that generates heat in horsepower...always the dull kW...) "My heatgun can blast at 2 hp!" Nope, you never hear that.
 
Anyway, a couple of pictures. The construction was straight forward. No glue, just stainless steel patio screws. The lid was firstly put on to tight so I had to rearrange the hinges at add a sealing profile. Drilled a 10 mm hole in the far end of the lid also to let the steam out. The box is 90 cm long, inside height 45 mm and inside width ca 55 mm.
 

 
And the inside. Planks rests on elevated bamboo skewers.
 

 
Finally, take two on the first plank. In a gleaming "time to lock up and go inside" kind of light.
 

 
 

Question for the weekend: How do you plank a boat that lacks frames?
And subsequent, do I really need to go down the spiling path?
 
It took the entire Saturday to come up with the answer which is kind of: Nah, you dont really...
 
Next question, how do you soak a plank that is nearly 1m long? 
The obvious answer to that is: In something that is just above 1m long and holds water...
 
Went all over my place to find something useful. The closest I got was A. the bathtub on 2nd floor. B. Flower tray (unfortunately pierced to drain water...)
 
Think again.
 
Eventually I used some leftover gutters from my renovations. Wacked it to the shape of an ugly tray and voilá! There it was. Have only knocked it over once up to now. The shop floor needed some soaking anyway....not!
 
Back to planking.
First I ripped down the plank to some 8mm width. Then it went for a bath. Unsuccessful tries were performed yesterday so I gave up and left it in water for the time being. Went back to the shipyard this morning with a fresh set of mind (well, almost fresh). Having spent the last 12 hrs in water the oak was mildly negotiable both laterally and longitudinally. It will be a struggle nevertheless.
 
Summary: I need more C-clamps.
 

 

Was able to sneak some time in the shop tonight.
All four rabbets are cut. Not to Remcos standard, but well, very few can reach his standard...
 
I had previously cut and shaped the cutwater piece so I glued it in place now. The black rubber band is a scrapped bicycle tube cut at an angle. Very handy to have. For the bigger bands needed I snip from the 2" one, and for smaller I use a scrapped road tube, ca 1" in dia.
 
When the glue has dried I will shape the entire stem to get rid of the bulky appearance that is has now.
 

 
 

So, first 2 + 2 strakes on. Not without a struggle though. And as they say on the tube "mind the gap"
Nothing a good sanding and filler wont hide so I am happy for the time being.
 
Next up I need to make some dummy frames to clamp to the floor board. Otherwise I guess I will be in too much trouble fitting planks. Speaking of which, the steam chest worked like a charm. I know from reading that oak bends really well when steamed, but it was still fun to see with my own eyes.
 
From a couple of different angles, here is the evidence.
 

 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 116 – Bow Decoration
 
Young America's bow decoration is interesting for a number of reasons.  Each side is different.  Just aft of a billet decorated with greenery, the carved figures rest mostly on the waist planking and partially on the base of the billet.  There were no headboards, so it is not clear how these were mounted on the original ship – much less how to mount them on the model -  due to the angle between the two surfaces.  Also, unlike the gilded stern decoration, the figures at the bow were painted in natural colors.  All this, like many other aspects of the ship, is based on Bill Crothers research.
 
After some unsuccessful attempts to fashion a wood base in the angle, I finally decided to sculpt these as six separate pieces, then fit them together on the bow.
The first picture shows the initial figures, sculpted with MagicSculpt® on wax paper taped flat on the pattern sheet.
 

 
The figures are quite small.  The starboard side features a female figure – presumably Liberty – with a shield flanked by draped flags.  On the port side an American Eagle is substituted for the female figure.  Below is the sculpted female figure before any post-hardening refinement.  The points on the flag staffs are thumb tack points.
 

 
The next picture shows some refining of the sculpture using a very small chisel.
 

 
In the next picture the fragile greenery has been lifted off the waxed paper, laid on the billet and touched with a drop or three of thin CA.
 

 
 
Refinement of the greenery was done after being glued on.  In the next picture the three port figures have been fitted and glued on with CA.
 

 
The figures were set into soft sculpting material placed in the angle between the billet and the side, than pushed into a fit.  Some modification of the parts was needed for this.  The sculptures must leave clearance for the square bowsprit to slide in and out.  Excess material was removed.
 
After attachment, the figures were primed with thinned flat black enamel.  The entire hull was given one last coat of acrylic paint and the figures were painted using acrylic gouache.  The next picture shows the starboard decoration.
 

 
The next picture shows the port side.
 

 
The greenery is actually brighter with light highlights than shown in the photos.  The next picture, from dead ahead, shows both sides.  Photos like these and closer ones were very helpful in judging the paint job and suggesting improvements.  The model went back and forth a few times for these.
 

 
The acrylic gouache used for painting the figures dries dead flat, causing an almost two dimensional appearance in the photos – especially in the close ups.  I may give these a coat of semi-gloss medium, perhaps the acrylic sanding sealer I used over the stern lettering.
 
Speaking of that, I received the second order of dry transfers, so I was able to correct the letters that were photo shopped in the last post.  The last picture shows the repaired letters – unadulterated.
 

 
This picture was taken before the final repair on the C.  After repair the dry transfer letters were given a coat of diluted sanding sealer.   I am also quite happy with the final black finish on the hull – shown in this picture.
 
With all this work done, the lower framing was given a last coat of wax, so the model should not have to be inverted again, I hope.  This will allow me to get on with work on the upper deck – cabins, etc.
 
Ed

So, was a bit creative the last day...bought a stove good for 2,5 hp (funny, you never relate to electric equipment that generates heat in horsepower...always the dull kW...) "My heatgun can blast at 2 hp!" Nope, you never hear that.
 
Anyway, a couple of pictures. The construction was straight forward. No glue, just stainless steel patio screws. The lid was firstly put on to tight so I had to rearrange the hinges at add a sealing profile. Drilled a 10 mm hole in the far end of the lid also to let the steam out. The box is 90 cm long, inside height 45 mm and inside width ca 55 mm.
 

 
And the inside. Planks rests on elevated bamboo skewers.
 

 
Finally, take two on the first plank. In a gleaming "time to lock up and go inside" kind of light.