kruginmi

Finally got the starboard side all planked up (with a coat of gel coat).  It became evident pretty quickly that in order to plank the outer sides (with locking planks) you need to have the plan in place for the bow and stern planking.  This was my first go at this.  These areas are totally covered up by the quarter deck and forecastle but I still wanted something seemed plausible with my knowledge.  The result was:
 

 
The gel coat enabled the seams to really pop so all this hard planking work was not lost (hah, hah).  I ended up using a trim outline (around half a plank width) to frame in the open area of the deck.  So there is no end grain visible.  It really seemed to tidy things up and give a finished look to it.
 

 
So, when I take a step back and look at the final view of the cut out deck (at least the starboard side) I am left pretty happy with my efforts.  It took a little longer than anticipated - but what doesn't in this hobby?  I am relying on the stern planking on the wall to clean up the join with the floor.  I need to construct a rudder head box along with a seating / storage area in this section.
 

 
So on to the port side and trying to produce close to a mirror result.   - mark

I hate to see the case when you get done.
David B

Greg, correct the blade has the same width as the index in strip. I made a second one for paralel cuts to make the beds for the sails. At first I tried to glue the battens with temporary spacers, but it wasn't as evenly spaced as I had hoped. cutting mortices for the battens made assembly a lot easier.
 

 
For the sails I first got a piece of silk used for model airplanes. Although the fabric is great I could not fold them neatly even with an iron I could not get something I liked. Pretty expensive experiment actually, now I have a very big silk handkerchief with a hole in it...... So thick tinted paper was used. The writing on the tally's are home made decals.
 

 
I'm not sure if I will build the other walls of the sail room or leave it open like this, I actually like it the way it is now having a better view to the storage racks.
 

 

 

 
Remco 

Hi all,
 
The hull is finished.  When they rebuilt Lettie, which is what the drawings were taken from, the fore deck was raised to match the poop deck.  That’s why the deck measurement is longer.  They also extended the monkey rail all the way to the bow.  In trying to restore Lettie to original condition I installed the monkey rail around the stern, only up to the step in the deck.
 
I’m going to do something different this time.  I’m going to paint the hull and then install the deck.  On the one hand I won’t have to mask the deck; on the other it will be harder to sand the deck.  Well that’s how we learn.
 
Bob
 

 

 

Thanks for all the likes (and looks),
 
I am still pounding away at the port side.  Making those irregular planks at the bow / stern sure take some thought and time.  One they are attached though, the work pays off.
 

 

 
A lesson learned is to always use basswood first.  Even if I move to other woods I will always have a supply of at least 1/16th inch basswood boards for prototyping and trying things out.  I do start with paper, but that wrinkles and folds and can only get you so close.  Basswood is pretty easy to work with and will generate a 1:1 template for very little cost (even if the first one or two don't work out).
 
At the other end of the ship I am still looking at a gap that I hope to fill by tomorrow night:
 

 
My current plan shows this ship finishing up the middle of the year at the current pace and tasks remaining (making it around 13 years since the first cut).  I even caught myself looking at some plans thinking about the next one.  Must focus!  Lots of things left to do.
 
-mark

Finally got the starboard side all planked up (with a coat of gel coat).  It became evident pretty quickly that in order to plank the outer sides (with locking planks) you need to have the plan in place for the bow and stern planking.  This was my first go at this.  These areas are totally covered up by the quarter deck and forecastle but I still wanted something seemed plausible with my knowledge.  The result was:
 

 
The gel coat enabled the seams to really pop so all this hard planking work was not lost (hah, hah).  I ended up using a trim outline (around half a plank width) to frame in the open area of the deck.  So there is no end grain visible.  It really seemed to tidy things up and give a finished look to it.
 

 
So, when I take a step back and look at the final view of the cut out deck (at least the starboard side) I am left pretty happy with my efforts.  It took a little longer than anticipated - but what doesn't in this hobby?  I am relying on the stern planking on the wall to clean up the join with the floor.  I need to construct a rudder head box along with a seating / storage area in this section.
 

 
So on to the port side and trying to produce close to a mirror result.   - mark

Thanks for all the likes (and looks),
 
I am still pounding away at the port side.  Making those irregular planks at the bow / stern sure take some thought and time.  One they are attached though, the work pays off.
 

 

 
A lesson learned is to always use basswood first.  Even if I move to other woods I will always have a supply of at least 1/16th inch basswood boards for prototyping and trying things out.  I do start with paper, but that wrinkles and folds and can only get you so close.  Basswood is pretty easy to work with and will generate a 1:1 template for very little cost (even if the first one or two don't work out).
 
At the other end of the ship I am still looking at a gap that I hope to fill by tomorrow night:
 

 
My current plan shows this ship finishing up the middle of the year at the current pace and tasks remaining (making it around 13 years since the first cut).  I even caught myself looking at some plans thinking about the next one.  Must focus!  Lots of things left to do.
 
-mark

Well guys figure I couldn't let February end with at least a small update. Have been working on the cannons and a few other items such as the chain pumps, capstan along with redoing the helm port and upper deck transom. It seems the more I looked at those items the more I wanted to redo them and seems that that's what I did. Also added three more of the chain pump sprockets and not hoods along with the chain pin's for the capstan and drop pawl's. Did Montagu have the drop pawl's, maybe yes may be no, butt does seem that they were being used in the fleet as early as 1770 so figure I am safe adding them. Enjoy the photo's folks.  Only 6 more 32 pounder's to add and the guns for this deck will be done.    Gary   



 

 
 

 

Finally got the starboard side all planked up (with a coat of gel coat).  It became evident pretty quickly that in order to plank the outer sides (with locking planks) you need to have the plan in place for the bow and stern planking.  This was my first go at this.  These areas are totally covered up by the quarter deck and forecastle but I still wanted something seemed plausible with my knowledge.  The result was:
 

 
The gel coat enabled the seams to really pop so all this hard planking work was not lost (hah, hah).  I ended up using a trim outline (around half a plank width) to frame in the open area of the deck.  So there is no end grain visible.  It really seemed to tidy things up and give a finished look to it.
 

 
So, when I take a step back and look at the final view of the cut out deck (at least the starboard side) I am left pretty happy with my efforts.  It took a little longer than anticipated - but what doesn't in this hobby?  I am relying on the stern planking on the wall to clean up the join with the floor.  I need to construct a rudder head box along with a seating / storage area in this section.
 

 
So on to the port side and trying to produce close to a mirror result.   - mark

Finally got the starboard side all planked up (with a coat of gel coat).  It became evident pretty quickly that in order to plank the outer sides (with locking planks) you need to have the plan in place for the bow and stern planking.  This was my first go at this.  These areas are totally covered up by the quarter deck and forecastle but I still wanted something seemed plausible with my knowledge.  The result was:
 

 
The gel coat enabled the seams to really pop so all this hard planking work was not lost (hah, hah).  I ended up using a trim outline (around half a plank width) to frame in the open area of the deck.  So there is no end grain visible.  It really seemed to tidy things up and give a finished look to it.
 

 
So, when I take a step back and look at the final view of the cut out deck (at least the starboard side) I am left pretty happy with my efforts.  It took a little longer than anticipated - but what doesn't in this hobby?  I am relying on the stern planking on the wall to clean up the join with the floor.  I need to construct a rudder head box along with a seating / storage area in this section.
 

 
So on to the port side and trying to produce close to a mirror result.   - mark

Finally got the starboard side all planked up (with a coat of gel coat).  It became evident pretty quickly that in order to plank the outer sides (with locking planks) you need to have the plan in place for the bow and stern planking.  This was my first go at this.  These areas are totally covered up by the quarter deck and forecastle but I still wanted something seemed plausible with my knowledge.  The result was:
 

 
The gel coat enabled the seams to really pop so all this hard planking work was not lost (hah, hah).  I ended up using a trim outline (around half a plank width) to frame in the open area of the deck.  So there is no end grain visible.  It really seemed to tidy things up and give a finished look to it.
 

 
So, when I take a step back and look at the final view of the cut out deck (at least the starboard side) I am left pretty happy with my efforts.  It took a little longer than anticipated - but what doesn't in this hobby?  I am relying on the stern planking on the wall to clean up the join with the floor.  I need to construct a rudder head box along with a seating / storage area in this section.
 

 
So on to the port side and trying to produce close to a mirror result.   - mark

Thanks for stopping in and taking a look!
 
On to the gun deck planking!  Unlike most of the berth deck there are all sorts of items poking through the deck requiring special consideration and thought.  As an example the following (and where they fit):
 

 
For the target plank width I decided one fourth of the width of the coamings would be just right.  I do have some liberties here since this ship was originally built in America as a cargo ship before being bought into the British navy.  This decision made for some clean lines:
 

 
After getting these affixed I thought the open sections needed some cleaning up to get good lines for the eye.  I decided to go for a trim piece slightly less than half plank size and framed out the opening, using mitered corners at all joins.  There is no end grain visible.
 

 
For clean up I find a scraper (usually a straight razor blade) works best.  A few swipes and everything looks clean.  Now on to the deck sides.
 
mark

Mark that looks good sir and do agree with you on working from the outside to the inside. When I laid Alfred's gun deck plank's, I went from the outside towards the middle and from the bow to the stern. A whole lot easier fitting the plank up against the water way then fitting it after every thing else is laid.
 
Gary

Thanks for the good information Gary.  Constantly learning in this hobby.
 
This evening I had some time and have diagrammed out my plan for the outside planking.  I had wanted to include some locking planks for the experience in making them and also the look they provide. 
 

 
With the space available I am opting for two regular plank runs, one on both sides of the locking planks.  The final run is the trim piece that totally encircle the open space.  I am still undecided if I should work from the mid section to the outside or from the hull towards the middle, but will probably work from the outside in.
 
Lots of sanding and fitting in my future.
mark
 

Thanks for the good information Gary.  Constantly learning in this hobby.
 
This evening I had some time and have diagrammed out my plan for the outside planking.  I had wanted to include some locking planks for the experience in making them and also the look they provide. 
 

 
With the space available I am opting for two regular plank runs, one on both sides of the locking planks.  The final run is the trim piece that totally encircle the open space.  I am still undecided if I should work from the mid section to the outside or from the hull towards the middle, but will probably work from the outside in.
 
Lots of sanding and fitting in my future.
mark
 

Thanks for the good information Gary.  Constantly learning in this hobby.
 
This evening I had some time and have diagrammed out my plan for the outside planking.  I had wanted to include some locking planks for the experience in making them and also the look they provide. 
 

 
With the space available I am opting for two regular plank runs, one on both sides of the locking planks.  The final run is the trim piece that totally encircle the open space.  I am still undecided if I should work from the mid section to the outside or from the hull towards the middle, but will probably work from the outside in.
 
Lots of sanding and fitting in my future.
mark
 

Thanks for stopping in and taking a look!
 
On to the gun deck planking!  Unlike most of the berth deck there are all sorts of items poking through the deck requiring special consideration and thought.  As an example the following (and where they fit):
 

 
For the target plank width I decided one fourth of the width of the coamings would be just right.  I do have some liberties here since this ship was originally built in America as a cargo ship before being bought into the British navy.  This decision made for some clean lines:
 

 
After getting these affixed I thought the open sections needed some cleaning up to get good lines for the eye.  I decided to go for a trim piece slightly less than half plank size and framed out the opening, using mitered corners at all joins.  There is no end grain visible.
 

 
For clean up I find a scraper (usually a straight razor blade) works best.  A few swipes and everything looks clean.  Now on to the deck sides.
 
mark

Thanks for stopping in and taking a look!
 
On to the gun deck planking!  Unlike most of the berth deck there are all sorts of items poking through the deck requiring special consideration and thought.  As an example the following (and where they fit):
 

 
For the target plank width I decided one fourth of the width of the coamings would be just right.  I do have some liberties here since this ship was originally built in America as a cargo ship before being bought into the British navy.  This decision made for some clean lines:
 

 
After getting these affixed I thought the open sections needed some cleaning up to get good lines for the eye.  I decided to go for a trim piece slightly less than half plank size and framed out the opening, using mitered corners at all joins.  There is no end grain visible.
 

 
For clean up I find a scraper (usually a straight razor blade) works best.  A few swipes and everything looks clean.  Now on to the deck sides.
 
mark

Hi Mark and thank you sir. Some where and please don't ask me were, maybe in Goodwin's book, that the cable was taken around the spool or drum about 5 turns. They then  put a nail  or staple, on the middle run on the bottom of the drum, which means you had two and a half turns to port and two and a half turns to starboard. How far that would turn the rudder, this am unsure, maybe some one know's the answer to this one and will chime in here. This also as you said above gave space for the cable on the drum. Hum very interesting. Gary

Mark I looked in Boudroit book, The 74 gun ship, Vol 2, and seems this is were I found the information on the wheel, rudder and tiller rope. As I posted above the rope was taken around the barrel a even number of turns and then taken back down to the tiller. Boudriot says that the mid point of the tiller rope is nailed to the barrel, and on either side of this fixed point it is wound round twice in opposing directions; thus if the barrel is turned in one direction the rope is wound on of the fixed point and unwound in the other, abaft the fixed point. Gary

RIght now I have no plans to.  This hull has been around for 8 years (assembled) and been very stable so far.  Also, there are already regions I am unable to adequately reach.  With basswood really need some sort of sealer.
 
This whole ship has been a learning experience for me.  Most items (where possible) are doweled or positioned with clamps as opposed to glue to allow some movement.  I attach an internal pic of the orlop deck which has survived with no ill effects so far.
 
Loving the hobby,
Mark
 

As I move to the gun deck (which is actually visible as the top main deck) everything added really has a big impact.  As I work to get the hatch coamings affixed I got one last look at a component that I was particularly proud of.  Once it was affixed most of the beauty was hidden but at least I have photographic evidence!
 

 
The following is the installed view  with and without the associated quarterdeck roof.
 

 
To permanently affix the deck beams I needed to add the waterways.  Given the flow of the hull, the waterway from the stern to close to the bow was affixed in one straight piece, slightly bent and glued into place.  For the profile, the same scraper was used as the berth deck.  For the bow, I used my favorite technique of using post-it notes to get the rough shape, followed by a piece of paper to refine, finally using the correct wood. 
 

 
When the port piece was cut out I was happy to find that by flipping it over it fit just fine in the starboard side.  I love it when these things like that happen.
 

 
Mark
 
Now on actually laying planks (as soon as the stairway coaming is put in).

I will skip over the ice storm, providing refuge to a family of 8, car issues, the holidays and such and actually do some modeling on the last day of 2013:  The object is the stove stack.
 
Into my stove I had cut a slot for an 1/4" brass tube which I procured locally.  Luckily I decided to just put everything in place with this oversized tube 'just to make sure.'  Well, it was very obvious the angle was significantly off:
 

 
Pondering this it all made sense.  The stove was sitting on a deck that had a slight pitch up towards the stem.  Looking at the plans the base of the stove was indeed angled to allow the stove / pots to sit level with the water line.  how many times have I looked at these and never seen that?  So I added the appropriate shim and brought the angle to rights:
 

 
With that taken care of I was able to use the deck beams to mark off the different levels.  These checked out with the plans (always a good thing) and I identified the height and angle required which I cut out with a very fine toothed straight saw:
 

 
After some silver soldering (got so excited I didn't take any pictures) the pipe was complete.  A good result for not so much work.  It still needs to be blackened but this will wait.  I really like the solid feel while still able to remove it out of the way for now.
 

 
This pipe now sits as Mr. Hahn constructed it.  I am still scratching my head if I will go ahead and construct the brass cover assembly.  Next job is the berth deck waterway so I can start planking that deck in.
 
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year,
mark

Thanks for stopping in and taking a look!
 
On to the gun deck planking!  Unlike most of the berth deck there are all sorts of items poking through the deck requiring special consideration and thought.  As an example the following (and where they fit):
 

 
For the target plank width I decided one fourth of the width of the coamings would be just right.  I do have some liberties here since this ship was originally built in America as a cargo ship before being bought into the British navy.  This decision made for some clean lines:
 

 
After getting these affixed I thought the open sections needed some cleaning up to get good lines for the eye.  I decided to go for a trim piece slightly less than half plank size and framed out the opening, using mitered corners at all joins.  There is no end grain visible.
 

 
For clean up I find a scraper (usually a straight razor blade) works best.  A few swipes and everything looks clean.  Now on to the deck sides.
 
mark

Success breeds progress.  Tonight was to climb the mountain.that I had thought about for a long time  - the pumps.
 
I had lathed out rods to represent the pumps a LONG time ago (in a galaxy / home far - far away).  Ever since then I had known that I wanted to improve their look above the deck where they were most visible.  That decision had churned in my brain ever since, growing larger and larger in mythical proportions of complexity.  Today was the day, they had to be done.
 
The following shows a before and after shot (hopefully you can tell the bottom pump is the before):
 

 
As is usually the case, the reality wasn't that bad at all.  After marking where the pumps came through the deck, that line was scribed with a knife and the rod paired down.  I used a draftsman guide of six sided shapes to find the appropriate size that I wanted.  Wood was cut to these dimensions and I eyeballed the necessary bevel at the edges.  These were then glued together and onto the rod.
 

 
I used piece of boxwood for a cap.  The actual handle will be generated later. 
 

 
Tomorrow the gun deck planking begins.  mark