kruginmi

Before the Christmas parties at the house wanted to be able to show the model in its basic form so I moved onto the main yard arm:
 

 
I used the process outlined in TFFM and don't think I will go back to dowels ever again. A lot easier to get the center 8 sided portion and tapering / rounding the remainder really isn't that bad a process.  I still have the cleats and some final shaping but this week I aim for the topyard and topgallant yard rough ins.
 
You can probably guess I have 'pinned' the yard to the mast.  This ship will use a truss so all will be hidden.
 
Ho Ho Ho,
Mark
 
 

Cool.  I like the way this is shaping up.  

Thanks for all the looks and likes!
 
This evening success breads motivation.  So....I continued on with the population of the main yard arm:  cleats and boom irons.
 

 
I had thought long and hard about the stunsl booms.  Carrying on the theme of the main mast I decided to try using black paper and mini-dowels for the irons holding them onto the main yard.  I don't think they turned out too bad.  Taking a step back I am definitely ready for that topmast yard.
 

 
Mark

Before the Christmas parties at the house wanted to be able to show the model in its basic form so I moved onto the main yard arm:
 

 
I used the process outlined in TFFM and don't think I will go back to dowels ever again. A lot easier to get the center 8 sided portion and tapering / rounding the remainder really isn't that bad a process.  I still have the cleats and some final shaping but this week I aim for the topyard and topgallant yard rough ins.
 
You can probably guess I have 'pinned' the yard to the mast.  This ship will use a truss so all will be hidden.
 
Ho Ho Ho,
Mark
 
 

Before the Christmas parties at the house wanted to be able to show the model in its basic form so I moved onto the main yard arm:
 

 
I used the process outlined in TFFM and don't think I will go back to dowels ever again. A lot easier to get the center 8 sided portion and tapering / rounding the remainder really isn't that bad a process.  I still have the cleats and some final shaping but this week I aim for the topyard and topgallant yard rough ins.
 
You can probably guess I have 'pinned' the yard to the mast.  This ship will use a truss so all will be hidden.
 
Ho Ho Ho,
Mark
 
 

Before the Christmas parties at the house wanted to be able to show the model in its basic form so I moved onto the main yard arm:
 

 
I used the process outlined in TFFM and don't think I will go back to dowels ever again. A lot easier to get the center 8 sided portion and tapering / rounding the remainder really isn't that bad a process.  I still have the cleats and some final shaping but this week I aim for the topyard and topgallant yard rough ins.
 
You can probably guess I have 'pinned' the yard to the mast.  This ship will use a truss so all will be hidden.
 
Ho Ho Ho,
Mark
 
 

Before the Christmas parties at the house wanted to be able to show the model in its basic form so I moved onto the main yard arm:
 

 
I used the process outlined in TFFM and don't think I will go back to dowels ever again. A lot easier to get the center 8 sided portion and tapering / rounding the remainder really isn't that bad a process.  I still have the cleats and some final shaping but this week I aim for the topyard and topgallant yard rough ins.
 
You can probably guess I have 'pinned' the yard to the mast.  This ship will use a truss so all will be hidden.
 
Ho Ho Ho,
Mark
 
 

More carving.  The decorative curl on the end of the planksheer rail was made several times...Dropped and lost one of them, the final one is OK.  While it seems so small while carving, it looks a bit large in place.  The volute has a simple gouge pattern.  I do not have the skills to carve the pattern as David laid out.  The pear was too soft to carve, so I went back to the Box wood and stained it.  Not an attempt to match the pear, just decorative.  I may thin it down (from the back).  It looks a bit heavy as is.  The upper bulwarks are just set in place.  More work there and then the Roughtree rail.
Maury

Before the Christmas parties at the house wanted to be able to show the model in its basic form so I moved onto the main yard arm:
 

 
I used the process outlined in TFFM and don't think I will go back to dowels ever again. A lot easier to get the center 8 sided portion and tapering / rounding the remainder really isn't that bad a process.  I still have the cleats and some final shaping but this week I aim for the topyard and topgallant yard rough ins.
 
You can probably guess I have 'pinned' the yard to the mast.  This ship will use a truss so all will be hidden.
 
Ho Ho Ho,
Mark
 
 

Hi all
 
A very quick update. I'm still working on the internal bulkheads and getting the layout of the accommodation sorted out. She looks very rough, but, there's still lots of work to go!
 
Cheers and all the best!
 
Patrick

Sanity Check time.....
 
I received my order of blocks for the Syren Ship Modeling Company and they were fantastic....but they stopped me in my tracks.  (don't tell the kids, these are my Christmas presents from them)
 

 
Accurate scaling is a big issue, especially with regards to rigging.  Previously I have done kits and my base impressions in sizing are from those.  Looking at the 6" blocks scaled down to 1/8" showed my brain had not wrapped itself around this correctly.  There was NO way the rigging cord I had chosen would fit into that.
 

 
I used a rigging sizing chart from Chuck and added some snips of line I had available that was sized and made the following rigging sizing tool (note: line not from Chuck).  My goal is to have at least 3 if not 4 different line thicknesses.
 

 
This showed that the rigging I had selected was more in the 5" scale sizing, not the 2" needed for those small blocks.  Well now I know and can make some adjustments before rework is required.  I did place the acquired blocks on some 1/48 scale pics in the TFFM and they fit great so my math isn't wrong.
 
My purchasing requirements had been:

 
I have decided that instead of combining the 5,6, and 7" blocks into the 1/8" scale, I am only going to use the 5 and 6".  I do have enough 3/16" blocks to cover all the 7, 8 and 9" so that is good.
 
The education of Krug,
mark
 
P.S  THANK YOU CHUCK!

Sanity Check time.....
 
I received my order of blocks for the Syren Ship Modeling Company and they were fantastic....but they stopped me in my tracks.  (don't tell the kids, these are my Christmas presents from them)
 

 
Accurate scaling is a big issue, especially with regards to rigging.  Previously I have done kits and my base impressions in sizing are from those.  Looking at the 6" blocks scaled down to 1/8" showed my brain had not wrapped itself around this correctly.  There was NO way the rigging cord I had chosen would fit into that.
 

 
I used a rigging sizing chart from Chuck and added some snips of line I had available that was sized and made the following rigging sizing tool (note: line not from Chuck).  My goal is to have at least 3 if not 4 different line thicknesses.
 

 
This showed that the rigging I had selected was more in the 5" scale sizing, not the 2" needed for those small blocks.  Well now I know and can make some adjustments before rework is required.  I did place the acquired blocks on some 1/48 scale pics in the TFFM and they fit great so my math isn't wrong.
 
My purchasing requirements had been:

 
I have decided that instead of combining the 5,6, and 7" blocks into the 1/8" scale, I am only going to use the 5 and 6".  I do have enough 3/16" blocks to cover all the 7, 8 and 9" so that is good.
 
The education of Krug,
mark
 
P.S  THANK YOU CHUCK!

Okay, so I figured out (remembered) how to post pictures.  I think I need to relearn this lesson every time I post!

So I continued on by planking the interior of the orlop deck and framing out the deck above.  I didn’t stagger the planking on the interior, but I will stagger the planking on the birth, gun, and spar decks.  The picture shows the beams of the birthing deck in place and framed out.  They are held in place with planks so as to square it with the hull, but not fixed in place so the frame can be removed for planking.  I’m actually pretty happy with how it is turning out.
 
The directions call for placing the runners (upon which the deck beams rest) before planking.  I found however, that planking to the point of the runner and then installing the runner makes it much easier to level the deck.  I will continue this process from the bottom up.
 
Looking at some of the great ideas incorporated by others who have built this model, I am greatly inspired by ways to improve upon it.  I’m trying to restrain myself a bit so that I don’t distract myself from completion – but I will certainly have to try some of those great ideas! 
 
Stubby

This is a resounding YES - the admiral is the wife.  (also the head of the procurement board)

Tom, a point to consider.
 
With my Druid I faced the same dilemma in space.  I ended up doing an admiralty model first which is still movable and did find a space in the house.  I am now working on a cross section containing the main mast which could sit on a mantle.  I still will handle 71 types of lines and require 142 blocks. I am scratching the itch for me and making consideration for the admiral.
 
Mark

This is a resounding YES - the admiral is the wife.  (also the head of the procurement board)

Tom, a point to consider.
 
With my Druid I faced the same dilemma in space.  I ended up doing an admiralty model first which is still movable and did find a space in the house.  I am now working on a cross section containing the main mast which could sit on a mantle.  I still will handle 71 types of lines and require 142 blocks. I am scratching the itch for me and making consideration for the admiral.
 
Mark

That is an awesome back story.  The current view looks great and I will look forward to your pictures of progress!
 
Mark

This is a resounding YES - the admiral is the wife.  (also the head of the procurement board)

Tom, a point to consider.
 
With my Druid I faced the same dilemma in space.  I ended up doing an admiralty model first which is still movable and did find a space in the house.  I am now working on a cross section containing the main mast which could sit on a mantle.  I still will handle 71 types of lines and require 142 blocks. I am scratching the itch for me and making consideration for the admiral.
 
Mark

Before I started in on the build, I made a mock-up of the interior cabin so I could get a feel for what details I wanted to add, as well as for this kind of small scale work. I have to admit that I was not aiming for the kinds of fixtures that might actually have been found on a vessel of this period. It was more about trying my hand at something new. I imagine, for example, that the cabin would have sat deeper into the hull - but since this would have required some modifications to the centre keel and the bulkheads for which I was not prepared, I didn't do this.
 
I started by making two separate floor templates out of 1/32" basswood sheeting. I measured the distance between bulkhead slots on the centre keel to get the width, while the length was determined by placing the widths in position atop the centre keel with the bulkheads fore and aft, marking the intersection between the floor piece and the bulkheads to get the widths port and starboard. I then cut another false bulkhead piece to separate the cabin into two sections. This bulkhead was also made of 1/32" basswood sheeting, and was made by tracing the outline of the kit supplied bulkhead frames onto the sheet (all of the bulkhead frames have the same shape on top). The height was the distance between the top of the centre keel and the top of the cabin  bulkheads. I planked my floors and bulkhead using scrap .5mm walnut. I then made a rough door separating the forward part of the cabin into 2 sections. Here's a photo
 

 
I decided, somewhat arbitrarily, that the port side cabin area forward would be a berth, so again out of scrap wood I threw together a bed, dresser and small night stand, along with a (ludicrously oversized) lantern and a painting of a lady-bug. The bed took a couple of tries to get to dimensions that I thought looked ok....
 

 

 
Here's a shot with a Canadian dime for scale comparison
 

 
In the starboard side forward cabin area I thought to put a kind of study, with a desk/shelving unit, small chair and an L-shaped bench. I had thought to add a small table with the bench, but this didn't end up happening - would have made passage through very difficult....Here's the desk unit
 

 
And here again with the chair and the bench just visible to the left
 

 
And with the bench in place
 

 
The aft cabin area I thought to make into a galley/dining area. Table and chairs, small stove and cabinet (not really ship shape at all....) and another painting, some (also oversized) lanterns and a makeshift chart (not accurate) of the Bay of Fundy - the waters where I learned to sail.
 

 

 

 
And finally here's a not-very-good shot from the top.
 

 
At the time I was very proud of my work - and I still am. But I think if I were to do this now, I might do a bit more leg work into two things
 
1. Better period-based representation of the fittings
2. Structural modifications to the kit to enable the work to be more visible on completion....
 
Anyway, thanks for reading/watching!
hamilton

Sanity Check time.....
 
I received my order of blocks for the Syren Ship Modeling Company and they were fantastic....but they stopped me in my tracks.  (don't tell the kids, these are my Christmas presents from them)
 

 
Accurate scaling is a big issue, especially with regards to rigging.  Previously I have done kits and my base impressions in sizing are from those.  Looking at the 6" blocks scaled down to 1/8" showed my brain had not wrapped itself around this correctly.  There was NO way the rigging cord I had chosen would fit into that.
 

 
I used a rigging sizing chart from Chuck and added some snips of line I had available that was sized and made the following rigging sizing tool (note: line not from Chuck).  My goal is to have at least 3 if not 4 different line thicknesses.
 

 
This showed that the rigging I had selected was more in the 5" scale sizing, not the 2" needed for those small blocks.  Well now I know and can make some adjustments before rework is required.  I did place the acquired blocks on some 1/48 scale pics in the TFFM and they fit great so my math isn't wrong.
 
My purchasing requirements had been:

 
I have decided that instead of combining the 5,6, and 7" blocks into the 1/8" scale, I am only going to use the 5 and 6".  I do have enough 3/16" blocks to cover all the 7, 8 and 9" so that is good.
 
The education of Krug,
mark
 
P.S  THANK YOU CHUCK!

Sanity Check time.....
 
I received my order of blocks for the Syren Ship Modeling Company and they were fantastic....but they stopped me in my tracks.  (don't tell the kids, these are my Christmas presents from them)
 

 
Accurate scaling is a big issue, especially with regards to rigging.  Previously I have done kits and my base impressions in sizing are from those.  Looking at the 6" blocks scaled down to 1/8" showed my brain had not wrapped itself around this correctly.  There was NO way the rigging cord I had chosen would fit into that.
 

 
I used a rigging sizing chart from Chuck and added some snips of line I had available that was sized and made the following rigging sizing tool (note: line not from Chuck).  My goal is to have at least 3 if not 4 different line thicknesses.
 

 
This showed that the rigging I had selected was more in the 5" scale sizing, not the 2" needed for those small blocks.  Well now I know and can make some adjustments before rework is required.  I did place the acquired blocks on some 1/48 scale pics in the TFFM and they fit great so my math isn't wrong.
 
My purchasing requirements had been:

 
I have decided that instead of combining the 5,6, and 7" blocks into the 1/8" scale, I am only going to use the 5 and 6".  I do have enough 3/16" blocks to cover all the 7, 8 and 9" so that is good.
 
The education of Krug,
mark
 
P.S  THANK YOU CHUCK!

Sanity Check time.....
 
I received my order of blocks for the Syren Ship Modeling Company and they were fantastic....but they stopped me in my tracks.  (don't tell the kids, these are my Christmas presents from them)
 

 
Accurate scaling is a big issue, especially with regards to rigging.  Previously I have done kits and my base impressions in sizing are from those.  Looking at the 6" blocks scaled down to 1/8" showed my brain had not wrapped itself around this correctly.  There was NO way the rigging cord I had chosen would fit into that.
 

 
I used a rigging sizing chart from Chuck and added some snips of line I had available that was sized and made the following rigging sizing tool (note: line not from Chuck).  My goal is to have at least 3 if not 4 different line thicknesses.
 

 
This showed that the rigging I had selected was more in the 5" scale sizing, not the 2" needed for those small blocks.  Well now I know and can make some adjustments before rework is required.  I did place the acquired blocks on some 1/48 scale pics in the TFFM and they fit great so my math isn't wrong.
 
My purchasing requirements had been:

 
I have decided that instead of combining the 5,6, and 7" blocks into the 1/8" scale, I am only going to use the 5 and 6".  I do have enough 3/16" blocks to cover all the 7, 8 and 9" so that is good.
 
The education of Krug,
mark
 
P.S  THANK YOU CHUCK!

That is an awesome back story.  The current view looks great and I will look forward to your pictures of progress!
 
Mark