kruginmi
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kruginmi got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Actually pulled the hull out of mouthballs for the next step, main section of the mast step. A thicker piece of wood with several distinct angles and cuts. I first templated it out with an index card before cutting. Truth be told, it took three attempts to get everything right. I didn't waste too much wood since I had only cut the mating edge, so resetting was simply cutting a new mating edge slightly above the failed attempt.
The square cut was achieved as shown above for the mast top shroud cut outs. At the end it was very satisfying to almost click this piece into place - no glue necessary at least for now. I also cut the tenon into the mast bottom and likewise a nice tight fit, allowing it to stand without other assistance.
This weekend I will add the positional wedges and the fixed bar. This is different from what I used on the the full Druid but I consider it much more realistic. I need to figure out the well and if I am going to keep anything open to view. It would be a shame to keep all of this hidden.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
I like roughing in as much as possible to make sure everything lines up and is accounted for - avoid the uh-oh moments when you can't do anything about it.
So before continuing on with the planking I wanted to verify the run of the mast and pumps foremost. The plans show the rake of the mast and the pump locations at the gundeck level, so first is to figure that out. The pumps foremost, and mast are on an angle so just duplicating the gundeck position would not work.
This is not 'true' build practice, but is very worthwhile. I get model 1:1 templates and insure everything is good to go. My inclination is to replicate the look of true practice on top of the templates made and I would be the only one wise. The pumps are not the final ones, but are smaller diameter ones just for this exercise. The final ones will be octagonal.
Next up is defining all the carlings to lock in deck beam spacings so the knees can be started. The hope is to build the decks removable until I decide to lock them in. I also might be 'forced' to rough in the main yard.....
I beg forgiveness on yet another status overview:
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from tadheus in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
I like roughing in as much as possible to make sure everything lines up and is accounted for - avoid the uh-oh moments when you can't do anything about it.
So before continuing on with the planking I wanted to verify the run of the mast and pumps foremost. The plans show the rake of the mast and the pump locations at the gundeck level, so first is to figure that out. The pumps foremost, and mast are on an angle so just duplicating the gundeck position would not work.
This is not 'true' build practice, but is very worthwhile. I get model 1:1 templates and insure everything is good to go. My inclination is to replicate the look of true practice on top of the templates made and I would be the only one wise. The pumps are not the final ones, but are smaller diameter ones just for this exercise. The final ones will be octagonal.
Next up is defining all the carlings to lock in deck beam spacings so the knees can be started. The hope is to build the decks removable until I decide to lock them in. I also might be 'forced' to rough in the main yard.....
I beg forgiveness on yet another status overview:
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from tadheus in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Actually pulled the hull out of mouthballs for the next step, main section of the mast step. A thicker piece of wood with several distinct angles and cuts. I first templated it out with an index card before cutting. Truth be told, it took three attempts to get everything right. I didn't waste too much wood since I had only cut the mating edge, so resetting was simply cutting a new mating edge slightly above the failed attempt.
The square cut was achieved as shown above for the mast top shroud cut outs. At the end it was very satisfying to almost click this piece into place - no glue necessary at least for now. I also cut the tenon into the mast bottom and likewise a nice tight fit, allowing it to stand without other assistance.
This weekend I will add the positional wedges and the fixed bar. This is different from what I used on the the full Druid but I consider it much more realistic. I need to figure out the well and if I am going to keep anything open to view. It would be a shame to keep all of this hidden.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
And the saga continues....
Next up is to cut the 'square' holes for the top mast shrouds to come through the top. Cutting a square hole in basswood is not straight forward. The wood is softer so keeping crisp edges is harder. It is possible though with a little 'trickery.'
Instead of drilling out and then hacking away praying for a good result, I outline where the squares need to be and use my sled on the table saw to cut out three sides of the square. I then cut out a replacement piece for the missing side and slide into place. I have the wire that will be used for the shrouds so used this as a spacer.
Then with a little sanding everything ends up ship shape and perfect. Square internal holes in basswood.
You might also noticed I added some trunnels through the top into the trestle trees to accurately locate the top each time I put it on. It is also important before drilling the holes for the blocks under the top that you make sure you know where the supports are! A little progress when possible.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Thanks everyone, with the snow falling outside I had a bit of time in the workshop to add the railing:
I used bamboo skewers for the upright posts and a piece of boxwood available for the railing itself. The belaying pins were from my spares box. Just need to drill some holes for the shrouds and necessary blocks (also for the stay - crows feet - that will remain empty).
As a side note, the cheek blocks didn't quite look right to me so I removed them, put them higher and thinned them out.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
On to another mini-project all in itself, the fighting top. Lots of techniques here but I was leery of warping so I opted for using a 1/32" piece of basswood for my basic form, then glued the surrounding thicker rim before applying the second layer of planking. - again 1/32".
I did keep the curved front piece free to make shaping the inner planks much easier. This whole assembly will be painted black but I still added some pencil caulking to give it the look prior to that painting. next up was figuring out where all the radiating outward supports should go. I copied the top to a piece of paper and figured out where I think they should be. My proportional divider was used a LOT. Once figured out I transferred to the top itself.
Then a lot of cutting. I used a piece of walnut because I found a strip already cut that was perfect. I ended up mortising the pieces that intersect the front curved piece into the curved piece to make the fit snug with no visible gaps.
I thought at first the strip I used was way more than enough, a third of the way through I wasn't so sure, sweating it until the last three pieces showed I was good. Still have the rear railing and quite a few holes to cut but visually I am happy with it:
Stay building my friends,
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Thanks Grant and Mark, here is to a better sleep tonight.....(as I get older, that broadside is usually something entirely different!)
So what are cheek blocks?
Only item left (beside the fighting top) are cleats around 4 feet above the deck around the mast. I will wait until the mast fits into the deck to insure I do this right.
mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from egkb in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
I like roughing in as much as possible to make sure everything lines up and is accounted for - avoid the uh-oh moments when you can't do anything about it.
So before continuing on with the planking I wanted to verify the run of the mast and pumps foremost. The plans show the rake of the mast and the pump locations at the gundeck level, so first is to figure that out. The pumps foremost, and mast are on an angle so just duplicating the gundeck position would not work.
This is not 'true' build practice, but is very worthwhile. I get model 1:1 templates and insure everything is good to go. My inclination is to replicate the look of true practice on top of the templates made and I would be the only one wise. The pumps are not the final ones, but are smaller diameter ones just for this exercise. The final ones will be octagonal.
Next up is defining all the carlings to lock in deck beam spacings so the knees can be started. The hope is to build the decks removable until I decide to lock them in. I also might be 'forced' to rough in the main yard.....
I beg forgiveness on yet another status overview:
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from Mike Y in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
I like roughing in as much as possible to make sure everything lines up and is accounted for - avoid the uh-oh moments when you can't do anything about it.
So before continuing on with the planking I wanted to verify the run of the mast and pumps foremost. The plans show the rake of the mast and the pump locations at the gundeck level, so first is to figure that out. The pumps foremost, and mast are on an angle so just duplicating the gundeck position would not work.
This is not 'true' build practice, but is very worthwhile. I get model 1:1 templates and insure everything is good to go. My inclination is to replicate the look of true practice on top of the templates made and I would be the only one wise. The pumps are not the final ones, but are smaller diameter ones just for this exercise. The final ones will be octagonal.
Next up is defining all the carlings to lock in deck beam spacings so the knees can be started. The hope is to build the decks removable until I decide to lock them in. I also might be 'forced' to rough in the main yard.....
I beg forgiveness on yet another status overview:
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from egkb in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Actually pulled the hull out of mouthballs for the next step, main section of the mast step. A thicker piece of wood with several distinct angles and cuts. I first templated it out with an index card before cutting. Truth be told, it took three attempts to get everything right. I didn't waste too much wood since I had only cut the mating edge, so resetting was simply cutting a new mating edge slightly above the failed attempt.
The square cut was achieved as shown above for the mast top shroud cut outs. At the end it was very satisfying to almost click this piece into place - no glue necessary at least for now. I also cut the tenon into the mast bottom and likewise a nice tight fit, allowing it to stand without other assistance.
This weekend I will add the positional wedges and the fixed bar. This is different from what I used on the the full Druid but I consider it much more realistic. I need to figure out the well and if I am going to keep anything open to view. It would be a shame to keep all of this hidden.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from Canute in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
I like roughing in as much as possible to make sure everything lines up and is accounted for - avoid the uh-oh moments when you can't do anything about it.
So before continuing on with the planking I wanted to verify the run of the mast and pumps foremost. The plans show the rake of the mast and the pump locations at the gundeck level, so first is to figure that out. The pumps foremost, and mast are on an angle so just duplicating the gundeck position would not work.
This is not 'true' build practice, but is very worthwhile. I get model 1:1 templates and insure everything is good to go. My inclination is to replicate the look of true practice on top of the templates made and I would be the only one wise. The pumps are not the final ones, but are smaller diameter ones just for this exercise. The final ones will be octagonal.
Next up is defining all the carlings to lock in deck beam spacings so the knees can be started. The hope is to build the decks removable until I decide to lock them in. I also might be 'forced' to rough in the main yard.....
I beg forgiveness on yet another status overview:
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from albert in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
I like roughing in as much as possible to make sure everything lines up and is accounted for - avoid the uh-oh moments when you can't do anything about it.
So before continuing on with the planking I wanted to verify the run of the mast and pumps foremost. The plans show the rake of the mast and the pump locations at the gundeck level, so first is to figure that out. The pumps foremost, and mast are on an angle so just duplicating the gundeck position would not work.
This is not 'true' build practice, but is very worthwhile. I get model 1:1 templates and insure everything is good to go. My inclination is to replicate the look of true practice on top of the templates made and I would be the only one wise. The pumps are not the final ones, but are smaller diameter ones just for this exercise. The final ones will be octagonal.
Next up is defining all the carlings to lock in deck beam spacings so the knees can be started. The hope is to build the decks removable until I decide to lock them in. I also might be 'forced' to rough in the main yard.....
I beg forgiveness on yet another status overview:
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from Canute in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Actually pulled the hull out of mouthballs for the next step, main section of the mast step. A thicker piece of wood with several distinct angles and cuts. I first templated it out with an index card before cutting. Truth be told, it took three attempts to get everything right. I didn't waste too much wood since I had only cut the mating edge, so resetting was simply cutting a new mating edge slightly above the failed attempt.
The square cut was achieved as shown above for the mast top shroud cut outs. At the end it was very satisfying to almost click this piece into place - no glue necessary at least for now. I also cut the tenon into the mast bottom and likewise a nice tight fit, allowing it to stand without other assistance.
This weekend I will add the positional wedges and the fixed bar. This is different from what I used on the the full Druid but I consider it much more realistic. I need to figure out the well and if I am going to keep anything open to view. It would be a shame to keep all of this hidden.
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from archjofo in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Actually pulled the hull out of mouthballs for the next step, main section of the mast step. A thicker piece of wood with several distinct angles and cuts. I first templated it out with an index card before cutting. Truth be told, it took three attempts to get everything right. I didn't waste too much wood since I had only cut the mating edge, so resetting was simply cutting a new mating edge slightly above the failed attempt.
The square cut was achieved as shown above for the mast top shroud cut outs. At the end it was very satisfying to almost click this piece into place - no glue necessary at least for now. I also cut the tenon into the mast bottom and likewise a nice tight fit, allowing it to stand without other assistance.
This weekend I will add the positional wedges and the fixed bar. This is different from what I used on the the full Druid but I consider it much more realistic. I need to figure out the well and if I am going to keep anything open to view. It would be a shame to keep all of this hidden.
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from GuntherMT in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Actually pulled the hull out of mouthballs for the next step, main section of the mast step. A thicker piece of wood with several distinct angles and cuts. I first templated it out with an index card before cutting. Truth be told, it took three attempts to get everything right. I didn't waste too much wood since I had only cut the mating edge, so resetting was simply cutting a new mating edge slightly above the failed attempt.
The square cut was achieved as shown above for the mast top shroud cut outs. At the end it was very satisfying to almost click this piece into place - no glue necessary at least for now. I also cut the tenon into the mast bottom and likewise a nice tight fit, allowing it to stand without other assistance.
This weekend I will add the positional wedges and the fixed bar. This is different from what I used on the the full Druid but I consider it much more realistic. I need to figure out the well and if I am going to keep anything open to view. It would be a shame to keep all of this hidden.
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from bdgiantman2 in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Actually pulled the hull out of mouthballs for the next step, main section of the mast step. A thicker piece of wood with several distinct angles and cuts. I first templated it out with an index card before cutting. Truth be told, it took three attempts to get everything right. I didn't waste too much wood since I had only cut the mating edge, so resetting was simply cutting a new mating edge slightly above the failed attempt.
The square cut was achieved as shown above for the mast top shroud cut outs. At the end it was very satisfying to almost click this piece into place - no glue necessary at least for now. I also cut the tenon into the mast bottom and likewise a nice tight fit, allowing it to stand without other assistance.
This weekend I will add the positional wedges and the fixed bar. This is different from what I used on the the full Druid but I consider it much more realistic. I need to figure out the well and if I am going to keep anything open to view. It would be a shame to keep all of this hidden.
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from captainbob in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Actually pulled the hull out of mouthballs for the next step, main section of the mast step. A thicker piece of wood with several distinct angles and cuts. I first templated it out with an index card before cutting. Truth be told, it took three attempts to get everything right. I didn't waste too much wood since I had only cut the mating edge, so resetting was simply cutting a new mating edge slightly above the failed attempt.
The square cut was achieved as shown above for the mast top shroud cut outs. At the end it was very satisfying to almost click this piece into place - no glue necessary at least for now. I also cut the tenon into the mast bottom and likewise a nice tight fit, allowing it to stand without other assistance.
This weekend I will add the positional wedges and the fixed bar. This is different from what I used on the the full Druid but I consider it much more realistic. I need to figure out the well and if I am going to keep anything open to view. It would be a shame to keep all of this hidden.
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from Landrotten Highlander in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Actually pulled the hull out of mouthballs for the next step, main section of the mast step. A thicker piece of wood with several distinct angles and cuts. I first templated it out with an index card before cutting. Truth be told, it took three attempts to get everything right. I didn't waste too much wood since I had only cut the mating edge, so resetting was simply cutting a new mating edge slightly above the failed attempt.
The square cut was achieved as shown above for the mast top shroud cut outs. At the end it was very satisfying to almost click this piece into place - no glue necessary at least for now. I also cut the tenon into the mast bottom and likewise a nice tight fit, allowing it to stand without other assistance.
This weekend I will add the positional wedges and the fixed bar. This is different from what I used on the the full Druid but I consider it much more realistic. I need to figure out the well and if I am going to keep anything open to view. It would be a shame to keep all of this hidden.
Mark
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kruginmi reacted to Omega1234 in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Looking good, Mark!
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kruginmi reacted to Jim Lad in Francis Pritt by Jim Lad - FINISHED - Scale 1:48 - Australian Mission Ship
And so she proceeds. The main deckhouses are now finished (apart from final cleaning up) and have been brought home for a couple of coats of wipe-on poly. They won't be finally fixed until all the deck details have been completed so I have more room to work around the deck. The only deckhouse to be made yet is the 'dunny', which was a definite addition to her when she was converted to a mission ship and can be left to very close to the end. Pearlers didn't have such woosy structures, but when you're carrying families some concessions to the niceties of life have to be made.
John
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kruginmi got a reaction from tadheus in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
And the saga continues....
Next up is to cut the 'square' holes for the top mast shrouds to come through the top. Cutting a square hole in basswood is not straight forward. The wood is softer so keeping crisp edges is harder. It is possible though with a little 'trickery.'
Instead of drilling out and then hacking away praying for a good result, I outline where the squares need to be and use my sled on the table saw to cut out three sides of the square. I then cut out a replacement piece for the missing side and slide into place. I have the wire that will be used for the shrouds so used this as a spacer.
Then with a little sanding everything ends up ship shape and perfect. Square internal holes in basswood.
You might also noticed I added some trunnels through the top into the trestle trees to accurately locate the top each time I put it on. It is also important before drilling the holes for the blocks under the top that you make sure you know where the supports are! A little progress when possible.
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from tadheus in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Thanks everyone, with the snow falling outside I had a bit of time in the workshop to add the railing:
I used bamboo skewers for the upright posts and a piece of boxwood available for the railing itself. The belaying pins were from my spares box. Just need to drill some holes for the shrouds and necessary blocks (also for the stay - crows feet - that will remain empty).
As a side note, the cheek blocks didn't quite look right to me so I removed them, put them higher and thinned them out.
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from tadheus in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
On to another mini-project all in itself, the fighting top. Lots of techniques here but I was leery of warping so I opted for using a 1/32" piece of basswood for my basic form, then glued the surrounding thicker rim before applying the second layer of planking. - again 1/32".
I did keep the curved front piece free to make shaping the inner planks much easier. This whole assembly will be painted black but I still added some pencil caulking to give it the look prior to that painting. next up was figuring out where all the radiating outward supports should go. I copied the top to a piece of paper and figured out where I think they should be. My proportional divider was used a LOT. Once figured out I transferred to the top itself.
Then a lot of cutting. I used a piece of walnut because I found a strip already cut that was perfect. I ended up mortising the pieces that intersect the front curved piece into the curved piece to make the fit snug with no visible gaps.
I thought at first the strip I used was way more than enough, a third of the way through I wasn't so sure, sweating it until the last three pieces showed I was good. Still have the rear railing and quite a few holes to cut but visually I am happy with it:
Stay building my friends,
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from tadheus in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Thanks Grant and Mark, here is to a better sleep tonight.....(as I get older, that broadside is usually something entirely different!)
So what are cheek blocks?
Only item left (beside the fighting top) are cleats around 4 feet above the deck around the mast. I will wait until the mast fits into the deck to insure I do this right.
mark
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