kruginmi
-
Posts
603 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
kruginmi got a reaction from ggrieco in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Moving up the mast I now tackled the junction between the topmast and topgallant mast:
For a different method (stronger) I decided to turn the topmast portion in the cap circular for an integrated tenon. As before I glued a faux cap over this for the mirage to work. This is probably my preferred way for strength over using a dowel, but the flip side is there is no adjustment - you have to get it right the first time. With a dowel you get an alignment step possible.
The trestle trees and cap were of boxwood since the size is getting pretty small.
I also have cut out the initial template for the main top. Putting it all together:
Put some more details on those tops (along with some sheaves) and this will actually look like a mast!
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Thanks everyone, with the snow falling outside I had a bit of time in the workshop to add the railing:
I used bamboo skewers for the upright posts and a piece of boxwood available for the railing itself. The belaying pins were from my spares box. Just need to drill some holes for the shrouds and necessary blocks (also for the stay - crows feet - that will remain empty).
As a side note, the cheek blocks didn't quite look right to me so I removed them, put them higher and thinned them out.
Mark
-
kruginmi reacted to NJQUACK in Peregrine Galley 1700 by NJQUACK - FINISHED - Sergal - 1:60
Hi,
Thank you Mark, but I found the Magnus hitch in my Dictionary of Knots.
This week has been a week of tying rat lines and studying the running rigging.
Walter
-
kruginmi got a reaction from tadheus in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Thanks everyone, with the snow falling outside I had a bit of time in the workshop to add the railing:
I used bamboo skewers for the upright posts and a piece of boxwood available for the railing itself. The belaying pins were from my spares box. Just need to drill some holes for the shrouds and necessary blocks (also for the stay - crows feet - that will remain empty).
As a side note, the cheek blocks didn't quite look right to me so I removed them, put them higher and thinned them out.
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from hexnut in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Thanks everyone, with the snow falling outside I had a bit of time in the workshop to add the railing:
I used bamboo skewers for the upright posts and a piece of boxwood available for the railing itself. The belaying pins were from my spares box. Just need to drill some holes for the shrouds and necessary blocks (also for the stay - crows feet - that will remain empty).
As a side note, the cheek blocks didn't quite look right to me so I removed them, put them higher and thinned them out.
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from archjofo in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Thanks everyone, with the snow falling outside I had a bit of time in the workshop to add the railing:
I used bamboo skewers for the upright posts and a piece of boxwood available for the railing itself. The belaying pins were from my spares box. Just need to drill some holes for the shrouds and necessary blocks (also for the stay - crows feet - that will remain empty).
As a side note, the cheek blocks didn't quite look right to me so I removed them, put them higher and thinned them out.
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from egkb in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Thanks everyone, with the snow falling outside I had a bit of time in the workshop to add the railing:
I used bamboo skewers for the upright posts and a piece of boxwood available for the railing itself. The belaying pins were from my spares box. Just need to drill some holes for the shrouds and necessary blocks (also for the stay - crows feet - that will remain empty).
As a side note, the cheek blocks didn't quite look right to me so I removed them, put them higher and thinned them out.
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from yvesvidal in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Thanks everyone, with the snow falling outside I had a bit of time in the workshop to add the railing:
I used bamboo skewers for the upright posts and a piece of boxwood available for the railing itself. The belaying pins were from my spares box. Just need to drill some holes for the shrouds and necessary blocks (also for the stay - crows feet - that will remain empty).
As a side note, the cheek blocks didn't quite look right to me so I removed them, put them higher and thinned them out.
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from ggrieco in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Thanks everyone. I never knew I would be spending this much time on the masts. Lots of learning.
Going through my notes and looking forward I realized I had not accounted for the jeer slings yet. I had already put on the drying strakes so I had to do some modifications to the as completed mast head. I came up with a solution that I believe is workable:
The last (I think) requirement for the main mast itself was the iron hoops for the woolings. I used pretty much the same method as I did for the mast head. I did notice that as you wrap them around the mast sometimes they would not follow an even course, opting for climbing or descending the mast. To avoid this I first wrapped painters tape around the mast at the point the hoops are required. Once triple checked, the paper mast band was added pushed up against the tape.
It didn't take too long to get the rest of the hoops into place:
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
On to another mini-project all in itself, the fighting top. Lots of techniques here but I was leery of warping so I opted for using a 1/32" piece of basswood for my basic form, then glued the surrounding thicker rim before applying the second layer of planking. - again 1/32".
I did keep the curved front piece free to make shaping the inner planks much easier. This whole assembly will be painted black but I still added some pencil caulking to give it the look prior to that painting. next up was figuring out where all the radiating outward supports should go. I copied the top to a piece of paper and figured out where I think they should be. My proportional divider was used a LOT. Once figured out I transferred to the top itself.
Then a lot of cutting. I used a piece of walnut because I found a strip already cut that was perfect. I ended up mortising the pieces that intersect the front curved piece into the curved piece to make the fit snug with no visible gaps.
I thought at first the strip I used was way more than enough, a third of the way through I wasn't so sure, sweating it until the last three pieces showed I was good. Still have the rear railing and quite a few holes to cut but visually I am happy with it:
Stay building my friends,
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from tadheus in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
On to another mini-project all in itself, the fighting top. Lots of techniques here but I was leery of warping so I opted for using a 1/32" piece of basswood for my basic form, then glued the surrounding thicker rim before applying the second layer of planking. - again 1/32".
I did keep the curved front piece free to make shaping the inner planks much easier. This whole assembly will be painted black but I still added some pencil caulking to give it the look prior to that painting. next up was figuring out where all the radiating outward supports should go. I copied the top to a piece of paper and figured out where I think they should be. My proportional divider was used a LOT. Once figured out I transferred to the top itself.
Then a lot of cutting. I used a piece of walnut because I found a strip already cut that was perfect. I ended up mortising the pieces that intersect the front curved piece into the curved piece to make the fit snug with no visible gaps.
I thought at first the strip I used was way more than enough, a third of the way through I wasn't so sure, sweating it until the last three pieces showed I was good. Still have the rear railing and quite a few holes to cut but visually I am happy with it:
Stay building my friends,
Mark
-
kruginmi reacted to mtaylor in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Lovely work.. and so clean. Keep it up, Mark. You're doing great.
-
kruginmi got a reaction from hexnut in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
On to another mini-project all in itself, the fighting top. Lots of techniques here but I was leery of warping so I opted for using a 1/32" piece of basswood for my basic form, then glued the surrounding thicker rim before applying the second layer of planking. - again 1/32".
I did keep the curved front piece free to make shaping the inner planks much easier. This whole assembly will be painted black but I still added some pencil caulking to give it the look prior to that painting. next up was figuring out where all the radiating outward supports should go. I copied the top to a piece of paper and figured out where I think they should be. My proportional divider was used a LOT. Once figured out I transferred to the top itself.
Then a lot of cutting. I used a piece of walnut because I found a strip already cut that was perfect. I ended up mortising the pieces that intersect the front curved piece into the curved piece to make the fit snug with no visible gaps.
I thought at first the strip I used was way more than enough, a third of the way through I wasn't so sure, sweating it until the last three pieces showed I was good. Still have the rear railing and quite a few holes to cut but visually I am happy with it:
Stay building my friends,
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from archjofo in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
On to another mini-project all in itself, the fighting top. Lots of techniques here but I was leery of warping so I opted for using a 1/32" piece of basswood for my basic form, then glued the surrounding thicker rim before applying the second layer of planking. - again 1/32".
I did keep the curved front piece free to make shaping the inner planks much easier. This whole assembly will be painted black but I still added some pencil caulking to give it the look prior to that painting. next up was figuring out where all the radiating outward supports should go. I copied the top to a piece of paper and figured out where I think they should be. My proportional divider was used a LOT. Once figured out I transferred to the top itself.
Then a lot of cutting. I used a piece of walnut because I found a strip already cut that was perfect. I ended up mortising the pieces that intersect the front curved piece into the curved piece to make the fit snug with no visible gaps.
I thought at first the strip I used was way more than enough, a third of the way through I wasn't so sure, sweating it until the last three pieces showed I was good. Still have the rear railing and quite a few holes to cut but visually I am happy with it:
Stay building my friends,
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from egkb in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
On to another mini-project all in itself, the fighting top. Lots of techniques here but I was leery of warping so I opted for using a 1/32" piece of basswood for my basic form, then glued the surrounding thicker rim before applying the second layer of planking. - again 1/32".
I did keep the curved front piece free to make shaping the inner planks much easier. This whole assembly will be painted black but I still added some pencil caulking to give it the look prior to that painting. next up was figuring out where all the radiating outward supports should go. I copied the top to a piece of paper and figured out where I think they should be. My proportional divider was used a LOT. Once figured out I transferred to the top itself.
Then a lot of cutting. I used a piece of walnut because I found a strip already cut that was perfect. I ended up mortising the pieces that intersect the front curved piece into the curved piece to make the fit snug with no visible gaps.
I thought at first the strip I used was way more than enough, a third of the way through I wasn't so sure, sweating it until the last three pieces showed I was good. Still have the rear railing and quite a few holes to cut but visually I am happy with it:
Stay building my friends,
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Thanks Grant and Mark, here is to a better sleep tonight.....(as I get older, that broadside is usually something entirely different!)
So what are cheek blocks?
Only item left (beside the fighting top) are cleats around 4 feet above the deck around the mast. I will wait until the mast fits into the deck to insure I do this right.
mark
-
kruginmi reacted to texxn5 in Charles W Morgan by texxn5 - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
Well today I managed to get a few things done. The Fore Lower Yard is completed. I got it rigged, mounted and squared with the lifts. Been a busy day, as any of you that got a drawplate from me as they got shipped out today. Still 2 left. The chain sheet lines are an interesting feature of how this ship was rigged as well as the double topsail sails. Three yards to go. Hard to believe they will be the last physical parts to be installed....The end is really approaching....then what????? Details once again are on my website for anyone interested.
-
kruginmi got a reaction from yvesvidal in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
On to another mini-project all in itself, the fighting top. Lots of techniques here but I was leery of warping so I opted for using a 1/32" piece of basswood for my basic form, then glued the surrounding thicker rim before applying the second layer of planking. - again 1/32".
I did keep the curved front piece free to make shaping the inner planks much easier. This whole assembly will be painted black but I still added some pencil caulking to give it the look prior to that painting. next up was figuring out where all the radiating outward supports should go. I copied the top to a piece of paper and figured out where I think they should be. My proportional divider was used a LOT. Once figured out I transferred to the top itself.
Then a lot of cutting. I used a piece of walnut because I found a strip already cut that was perfect. I ended up mortising the pieces that intersect the front curved piece into the curved piece to make the fit snug with no visible gaps.
I thought at first the strip I used was way more than enough, a third of the way through I wasn't so sure, sweating it until the last three pieces showed I was good. Still have the rear railing and quite a few holes to cut but visually I am happy with it:
Stay building my friends,
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from captainbob in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
On to another mini-project all in itself, the fighting top. Lots of techniques here but I was leery of warping so I opted for using a 1/32" piece of basswood for my basic form, then glued the surrounding thicker rim before applying the second layer of planking. - again 1/32".
I did keep the curved front piece free to make shaping the inner planks much easier. This whole assembly will be painted black but I still added some pencil caulking to give it the look prior to that painting. next up was figuring out where all the radiating outward supports should go. I copied the top to a piece of paper and figured out where I think they should be. My proportional divider was used a LOT. Once figured out I transferred to the top itself.
Then a lot of cutting. I used a piece of walnut because I found a strip already cut that was perfect. I ended up mortising the pieces that intersect the front curved piece into the curved piece to make the fit snug with no visible gaps.
I thought at first the strip I used was way more than enough, a third of the way through I wasn't so sure, sweating it until the last three pieces showed I was good. Still have the rear railing and quite a few holes to cut but visually I am happy with it:
Stay building my friends,
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from Mike Y in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Alright, looks like the end of the Druid-X mast photo series (I think). With the completion of the topgallant mast I believe this section is done. I do not count the eventual sealing and painting. I do not think
Now for a close-up of the topmast - topgallant junction. Thought this was done awhile ago, but then I remembered the bolster. Then I remembered the eye bolts, etc etc. This is actually pretty small, this close up really brings out the details (ugly warts and all....). Also a retrospective of the topmast.
This has been a great learning adventure. Oh, the fighting top is still in the raw - back to the workbench and at least one more set of pics......
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from SailorGreg in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Thanks everyone. I never knew I would be spending this much time on the masts. Lots of learning.
Going through my notes and looking forward I realized I had not accounted for the jeer slings yet. I had already put on the drying strakes so I had to do some modifications to the as completed mast head. I came up with a solution that I believe is workable:
The last (I think) requirement for the main mast itself was the iron hoops for the woolings. I used pretty much the same method as I did for the mast head. I did notice that as you wrap them around the mast sometimes they would not follow an even course, opting for climbing or descending the mast. To avoid this I first wrapped painters tape around the mast at the point the hoops are required. Once triple checked, the paper mast band was added pushed up against the tape.
It didn't take too long to get the rest of the hoops into place:
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from tadheus in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Thanks Grant and Mark, here is to a better sleep tonight.....(as I get older, that broadside is usually something entirely different!)
So what are cheek blocks?
Only item left (beside the fighting top) are cleats around 4 feet above the deck around the mast. I will wait until the mast fits into the deck to insure I do this right.
mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from archjofo in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Thanks Grant and Mark, here is to a better sleep tonight.....(as I get older, that broadside is usually something entirely different!)
So what are cheek blocks?
Only item left (beside the fighting top) are cleats around 4 feet above the deck around the mast. I will wait until the mast fits into the deck to insure I do this right.
mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from egkb in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Thanks Grant and Mark, here is to a better sleep tonight.....(as I get older, that broadside is usually something entirely different!)
So what are cheek blocks?
Only item left (beside the fighting top) are cleats around 4 feet above the deck around the mast. I will wait until the mast fits into the deck to insure I do this right.
mark
-
kruginmi reacted to mtaylor in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
That does seem to be the way it works. 3am and the brain fires off a broadside that can't be ignored....
Our Emblem ®
