kruginmi

Time for some progress.  I turned towards the main mast cap. 
 
I used a circle stencil to figure out the correct diameter of the top mast at the tenon and chose the drill bit accordingly. A good snug fit that was fine tuned with some sand paper.  Now I needed to work on the tenon onto the mast itself.
 
Thought about how I was going to do it.  First the result:
 

 
I did add a little mast exposed above the mast cap, just like the look.  How did I accomplish this?  How about the following pic:
 

 
That's right, there really isn't a tenon.  I cut off the mast at the appropriate height, drilled a hole through the mast cap for a 1/16" dowel into the mast itself, and then finally added a faux mast piece on top of the dowel.
 
Still a lot of shaping and tuning up, to include the metal hoops, bolsters, etc etc.  However I am happy with the result at this rough in stage.  Next up is the topmast to topgallant mast connections. 
 
Mark

Whew - after many reviews and open books spread across the table and a lot of "A-HA' moments I think I am finally over the rigging plan.  These charts will be invaluable for this build.
 
Final Tally:
- 71 lines have connections to the main mast and are accounted for
- 142 total blocks will be necessary to rig this thing up.
- 3 to at most 5 line widths will be used.  Once I get my ropewalk up and running this number will fall out of the thread choice and resultant windings.
 
I am not putting on stud sails / booms - and so no lines above reflect this option.
 
My latest 'senior' moment was figuring out why the ratline shrouds were 10" line, that is huge.  Well, finally had the light bulb and realized the line dimensions were in circumference and not diameter.  So this meant a 3.5" line which makes sense.  
 
Now to think about cutting some wood.
Mark

Time for some progress.  I turned towards the main mast cap. 
 
I used a circle stencil to figure out the correct diameter of the top mast at the tenon and chose the drill bit accordingly. A good snug fit that was fine tuned with some sand paper.  Now I needed to work on the tenon onto the mast itself.
 
Thought about how I was going to do it.  First the result:
 

 
I did add a little mast exposed above the mast cap, just like the look.  How did I accomplish this?  How about the following pic:
 

 
That's right, there really isn't a tenon.  I cut off the mast at the appropriate height, drilled a hole through the mast cap for a 1/16" dowel into the mast itself, and then finally added a faux mast piece on top of the dowel.
 
Still a lot of shaping and tuning up, to include the metal hoops, bolsters, etc etc.  However I am happy with the result at this rough in stage.  Next up is the topmast to topgallant mast connections. 
 
Mark

Thanks all.
 
This hits the definition of what is the 'right' way.  In my sense, that could be different from person to person.  Brilliant?  I don't know about that, some would probably say a lost opportunity.  However, the old saying "I am the captain" rules all.  I don't think the over all effect would have been any better.  Again, lots of details to accomplish like softening the hard edges as well as battens and such.
 
I think I have become more comfortable in this hobby, particularly after finishing the full Druid.  With the Druid-X I am having a lot of fun and not 'hanging on' too tight.  Should I say I am even considering ordering the blocks for the rigging?  The understanding of the rigging was the big mountain for me.
 
Mark

Very clever Mark - well done!

Time for some progress.  I turned towards the main mast cap. 
 
I used a circle stencil to figure out the correct diameter of the top mast at the tenon and chose the drill bit accordingly. A good snug fit that was fine tuned with some sand paper.  Now I needed to work on the tenon onto the mast itself.
 
Thought about how I was going to do it.  First the result:
 

 
I did add a little mast exposed above the mast cap, just like the look.  How did I accomplish this?  How about the following pic:
 

 
That's right, there really isn't a tenon.  I cut off the mast at the appropriate height, drilled a hole through the mast cap for a 1/16" dowel into the mast itself, and then finally added a faux mast piece on top of the dowel.
 
Still a lot of shaping and tuning up, to include the metal hoops, bolsters, etc etc.  However I am happy with the result at this rough in stage.  Next up is the topmast to topgallant mast connections. 
 
Mark

Time for some progress.  I turned towards the main mast cap. 
 
I used a circle stencil to figure out the correct diameter of the top mast at the tenon and chose the drill bit accordingly. A good snug fit that was fine tuned with some sand paper.  Now I needed to work on the tenon onto the mast itself.
 
Thought about how I was going to do it.  First the result:
 

 
I did add a little mast exposed above the mast cap, just like the look.  How did I accomplish this?  How about the following pic:
 

 
That's right, there really isn't a tenon.  I cut off the mast at the appropriate height, drilled a hole through the mast cap for a 1/16" dowel into the mast itself, and then finally added a faux mast piece on top of the dowel.
 
Still a lot of shaping and tuning up, to include the metal hoops, bolsters, etc etc.  However I am happy with the result at this rough in stage.  Next up is the topmast to topgallant mast connections. 
 
Mark

Sheer genius. Mark

HI Mark
 
I definitely concur with Mark's comment above.
 
Nicely done!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Time for some progress.  I turned towards the main mast cap. 
 
I used a circle stencil to figure out the correct diameter of the top mast at the tenon and chose the drill bit accordingly. A good snug fit that was fine tuned with some sand paper.  Now I needed to work on the tenon onto the mast itself.
 
Thought about how I was going to do it.  First the result:
 

 
I did add a little mast exposed above the mast cap, just like the look.  How did I accomplish this?  How about the following pic:
 

 
That's right, there really isn't a tenon.  I cut off the mast at the appropriate height, drilled a hole through the mast cap for a 1/16" dowel into the mast itself, and then finally added a faux mast piece on top of the dowel.
 
Still a lot of shaping and tuning up, to include the metal hoops, bolsters, etc etc.  However I am happy with the result at this rough in stage.  Next up is the topmast to topgallant mast connections. 
 
Mark

Time for some progress.  I turned towards the main mast cap. 
 
I used a circle stencil to figure out the correct diameter of the top mast at the tenon and chose the drill bit accordingly. A good snug fit that was fine tuned with some sand paper.  Now I needed to work on the tenon onto the mast itself.
 
Thought about how I was going to do it.  First the result:
 

 
I did add a little mast exposed above the mast cap, just like the look.  How did I accomplish this?  How about the following pic:
 

 
That's right, there really isn't a tenon.  I cut off the mast at the appropriate height, drilled a hole through the mast cap for a 1/16" dowel into the mast itself, and then finally added a faux mast piece on top of the dowel.
 
Still a lot of shaping and tuning up, to include the metal hoops, bolsters, etc etc.  However I am happy with the result at this rough in stage.  Next up is the topmast to topgallant mast connections. 
 
Mark

Thanks David,
 
One of the most common questions I have gotten on my full size hull model (same scale) is why I didn't rig / complete it.  Having this as a companion piece drives the answer to that question home.  Also, not to make light of anyone, it will show that the hull was truly planked all the way to the keel - another common question, and having the ribs exposed was not the norm.  Bringing wooden ship concepts to the masses - never a bad thing.
 
The width of the Druid-X will make it sit very nicely on the mantel, close to the full hull.
 
Mark

Thanks David,
 
One of the most common questions I have gotten on my full size hull model (same scale) is why I didn't rig / complete it.  Having this as a companion piece drives the answer to that question home.  Also, not to make light of anyone, it will show that the hull was truly planked all the way to the keel - another common question, and having the ribs exposed was not the norm.  Bringing wooden ship concepts to the masses - never a bad thing.
 
The width of the Druid-X will make it sit very nicely on the mantel, close to the full hull.
 
Mark

Thanks David,
 
One of the most common questions I have gotten on my full size hull model (same scale) is why I didn't rig / complete it.  Having this as a companion piece drives the answer to that question home.  Also, not to make light of anyone, it will show that the hull was truly planked all the way to the keel - another common question, and having the ribs exposed was not the norm.  Bringing wooden ship concepts to the masses - never a bad thing.
 
The width of the Druid-X will make it sit very nicely on the mantel, close to the full hull.
 
Mark

Whew - after many reviews and open books spread across the table and a lot of "A-HA' moments I think I am finally over the rigging plan.  These charts will be invaluable for this build.
 
Final Tally:
- 71 lines have connections to the main mast and are accounted for
- 142 total blocks will be necessary to rig this thing up.
- 3 to at most 5 line widths will be used.  Once I get my ropewalk up and running this number will fall out of the thread choice and resultant windings.
 
I am not putting on stud sails / booms - and so no lines above reflect this option.
 
My latest 'senior' moment was figuring out why the ratline shrouds were 10" line, that is huge.  Well, finally had the light bulb and realized the line dimensions were in circumference and not diameter.  So this meant a 3.5" line which makes sense.  
 
Now to think about cutting some wood.
Mark

Whew - after many reviews and open books spread across the table and a lot of "A-HA' moments I think I am finally over the rigging plan.  These charts will be invaluable for this build.
 
Final Tally:
- 71 lines have connections to the main mast and are accounted for
- 142 total blocks will be necessary to rig this thing up.
- 3 to at most 5 line widths will be used.  Once I get my ropewalk up and running this number will fall out of the thread choice and resultant windings.
 
I am not putting on stud sails / booms - and so no lines above reflect this option.
 
My latest 'senior' moment was figuring out why the ratline shrouds were 10" line, that is huge.  Well, finally had the light bulb and realized the line dimensions were in circumference and not diameter.  So this meant a 3.5" line which makes sense.  
 
Now to think about cutting some wood.
Mark

So after finally settling down on understanding the number and type of lines, I can move into the job of estimating what type of work I have in front of me with regards to blocks.  Currently I am showing 132 blocks are needed for this cross section (wow).  For the basic type (single and double) there are:
 

 
So you can see the actual ship had 12 varieties of these from 5" to 20".  For the model on a first pass I am looking at cutting this down to 8 types from 1/8" to 3/8".  So, for example, the 5, 6 and 7 inch single blocks are combined to the 1/8" scale block.  The question now is whether or not I should combine more, to like three of each type.  Feedback welcome.
 
For the rest of the blocks, the numbers are much smaller (besides the dead eyes):
 

 
There are one offs that I can think about actually making without going a little crazy.  Still need to go over the blocks again and am sure to add more - the biggest mistake I keep making is to double shown quantities to account for port and starboard.
 
Really enjoying the process, hope to start building again soon!
Mark

Thanks everyone for stopping by!
 
With a bit of time I decided to tackle the top gallant mast out of a piece of boxwood.  It was coming into shape pretty quick and I was liking the result when, bang, the top pole snapped off.  Too much pressure / not enough support.  From history I learned to take a breath (okay, I uttered some stuff first but then....) and calm down.  My first instinct was to go at it with another try, but it was a shame with the first one shaping up so well.
 
I leaned back and laid out my options.  I actually decided this was a good thing.  Better snapping now then when you are pulling on the backstay and the whole assembly comes off.  The wood here gets pretty thin so I decided to try something to provide some added strength.  I grabbed some thin walnut dowel I had nearby and drilled in a hole for it to sit - what could I lose.  With some glue and a good snug fit it didn't take too long to put in a much stronger replacement.  With some more walnut I added the cap and sanded to shape.  Lemonade out of lemons.
 

 
I am sorely tempted to not paint this piece and leave it as a nice capper to the mast assembly.  What started out as a negative has definitely turned into a huge positive.  I love this hobby.
 
Still some more sanding to do on the mast section itself.
 
Mark

The berth deck height is correct, Mark.  My issue now is to decide whether to shorten the figures I have to bring them more into a 5' 6"  or less arena.  I can't just take a little from the torso, since their knuckles will drag on the floor - need to shorten the arms also.  This 'short cut' of getting base figures isn't getting so short anymore!
 
Maybe I will just put bandages around their heads to show where they keep bashing them against the beams!  Or to be safe, add scale yellow tape warning of the low overhead.....
 
Mark

Chuck, 
 
I really haven't had that much trouble keeping the edges sharp.  I use sharp tools always and do a last swipe on the edge with sandpaper to eliminate most stray strands (if any).  You definitely don't want to sand or anything else when Basswood is wet / damp - definitely fuzzes.
 
So no prep other than to insure the wood is dry.  I buy most of my pre-milled stock at the local hobby store in 3" by 24" by thickness planks as I need it.
 
As I said before, I enjoy working with basswood.  If it wasn't around, the Druid would not have been built.  Not for everything (finer details are boxwood) but 95% of the Druid is Basswood.
 
I will be experimenting this time around with different stains to get some more accurate colors (such as the external hull planking).  That should be interesting.  The current thought is once again, 95% of the cross section will be Basswood.
 
Mark

Lou, great to hear from you!  You certainly have power packed comments so I inject my answers in red:
 
How is the Lady Anne coming?
The Lady Anne awaits sitting on the shelf in my workshop.  I still intend on getting back to her someday.  Part of my issue is where to put her once she is complete.  I need a couple more kids out of the house…..
 
I finished my Harvey - guess I should update that log....  
Yes you should.  Beautiful workmanship and you are holding out on us!
 
I am hoping to do a couple of Hahn's models after I retire as well, I have the Cromwell and Confederacy plans –
I have really enjoyed my experience.  I have all of his plans and am sure a couple more builds are in my future from them.  I have had my eyes on the Confederacy but with the kit being available I am thinking of choosing another one.  They certainly build big!  At 28” high, the masted Druid would be quite the handful to move around.
 
did you do the full model using separate futtocks also or did you use the traditional method? if you did the stacked frame blanks can you give some comparison for both methods? I was wondering how it would be to build the frames up using the futtock method but still leave the extensions on and use the upside down method for framing.
For the full model I used his jig for speed (plus it was easier).  It does use a good deal of wood but he is very open that he used it because he had a lot of wood on hand.  My current method will definitely be slower but will deliver very close to the same finished result.  I really like the upside down base because it defines a very rigid reference line to measure specific points to both sides with certainty (deck clamps, gun ports, etc.).  Once you have the keel centered and leveled, you can be sure both sides are good.  More on that later in the build.
 
Are you going to build up the frames in two halfs and then glue the halfs together or are you going to layer them up as you build up each futtock?
I am currently thinking about gluing the separate halves together once complete.  However I will try it out on the first frame and see how that goes.
 
Also how did you determine where to section the futtock lines? Did you use the frame blank drawings from the plans or use the TLAR method?
I took the lines off of the jig locations as reference points.  As an American built ship, I certainly have the ability to do whatever I want.  Those crazy colonials did not subscribe to rigid systems – especially with cargo ships.
 
Learn, Learn, Learn, try, try, try.  Always a new discovery but you have to build!
 
Mark

Now to get down to business - the frames.  I created four copies of each of the frame patterns.  Two of the copies were allocated to creating the patterns for the two layers of each frame.  I intend to keep a millimeter or so of extra wood on either side of each piece.
 

 
Once the pieces are rough cut to their dimensions I will cut the join edges using my sled on the Byrnes saw.  Then the frames will be glued together individually over the third plan (with wax paper).  Once each half is complete, the fourth plan will be glued onto the resultant frame before final shaping.
 
I will super detail the exposed frame face of each side of the cross section, but will leave the rest as shown.  With full planking the others will not be seen.
 
More pics to follow showing that.  You can see I am still using the baseboard (built upside down).  Hope to have the first frame together this weekend.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

First thing I wanted to do was understand the scale of what I was attempting.  I grabbed some tracing paper and drew all the pieces in the correct place.  Not too surprised, but this comes in at 28" tall (sans base).  The admiral's eyes bugged out a little at the plan but it is full speed away (or full speed as my time allows).
 

 
This is just a planning tool, it wasn't drawn absolutely accurately for all of the details.  I am feeling pretty pumped for building this.  Lots of new skills to learn and do.  I am also leaning towards adding actual people into the scene.  The 1/48 scale Hasegawa aircraft ground crew shows promise with some modifications.  It will be neat to have a couple of people swinging in their hammocks on the berth deck, haven't seen that too often.
 
Stay building my friends,
Mark

Whew - after many reviews and open books spread across the table and a lot of "A-HA' moments I think I am finally over the rigging plan.  These charts will be invaluable for this build.
 
Final Tally:
- 71 lines have connections to the main mast and are accounted for
- 142 total blocks will be necessary to rig this thing up.
- 3 to at most 5 line widths will be used.  Once I get my ropewalk up and running this number will fall out of the thread choice and resultant windings.
 
I am not putting on stud sails / booms - and so no lines above reflect this option.
 
My latest 'senior' moment was figuring out why the ratline shrouds were 10" line, that is huge.  Well, finally had the light bulb and realized the line dimensions were in circumference and not diameter.  So this meant a 3.5" line which makes sense.  
 
Now to think about cutting some wood.
Mark

So after finally settling down on understanding the number and type of lines, I can move into the job of estimating what type of work I have in front of me with regards to blocks.  Currently I am showing 132 blocks are needed for this cross section (wow).  For the basic type (single and double) there are:
 

 
So you can see the actual ship had 12 varieties of these from 5" to 20".  For the model on a first pass I am looking at cutting this down to 8 types from 1/8" to 3/8".  So, for example, the 5, 6 and 7 inch single blocks are combined to the 1/8" scale block.  The question now is whether or not I should combine more, to like three of each type.  Feedback welcome.
 
For the rest of the blocks, the numbers are much smaller (besides the dead eyes):
 

 
There are one offs that I can think about actually making without going a little crazy.  Still need to go over the blocks again and am sure to add more - the biggest mistake I keep making is to double shown quantities to account for port and starboard.
 
Really enjoying the process, hope to start building again soon!
Mark