kruginmi

I thought about it, then thought about some more, then gave myself more time to think about it.  I could think of no overriding reason that the base was still needed with it's current state and all the lines transferred that I could think of.
 
So......
 

 
Big day in the Krug household, the Druid-X is free.  I added the main mast to provide some sense of proportion.  This thing is going to be tall, that is for sure.
 
Next task is going to be the deck beams and then the mast step.  I am hopeful the completed decks will slide (easily) in and out.  That will help with fitting, gluing and access.
 
The vision is starting to take shape.
 
Keep Building my Friends,
Mark

I thought about it, then thought about some more, then gave myself more time to think about it.  I could think of no overriding reason that the base was still needed with it's current state and all the lines transferred that I could think of.
 
So......
 

 
Big day in the Krug household, the Druid-X is free.  I added the main mast to provide some sense of proportion.  This thing is going to be tall, that is for sure.
 
Next task is going to be the deck beams and then the mast step.  I am hopeful the completed decks will slide (easily) in and out.  That will help with fitting, gluing and access.
 
The vision is starting to take shape.
 
Keep Building my Friends,
Mark

Hi Mark
 
Looking good and it's nice to be free.
 
It's good when a vision starts to come together.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

I thought about it, then thought about some more, then gave myself more time to think about it.  I could think of no overriding reason that the base was still needed with it's current state and all the lines transferred that I could think of.
 
So......
 

 
Big day in the Krug household, the Druid-X is free.  I added the main mast to provide some sense of proportion.  This thing is going to be tall, that is for sure.
 
Next task is going to be the deck beams and then the mast step.  I am hopeful the completed decks will slide (easily) in and out.  That will help with fitting, gluing and access.
 
The vision is starting to take shape.
 
Keep Building my Friends,
Mark

I thought about it, then thought about some more, then gave myself more time to think about it.  I could think of no overriding reason that the base was still needed with it's current state and all the lines transferred that I could think of.
 
So......
 

 
Big day in the Krug household, the Druid-X is free.  I added the main mast to provide some sense of proportion.  This thing is going to be tall, that is for sure.
 
Next task is going to be the deck beams and then the mast step.  I am hopeful the completed decks will slide (easily) in and out.  That will help with fitting, gluing and access.
 
The vision is starting to take shape.
 
Keep Building my Friends,
Mark

I thought about it, then thought about some more, then gave myself more time to think about it.  I could think of no overriding reason that the base was still needed with it's current state and all the lines transferred that I could think of.
 
So......
 

 
Big day in the Krug household, the Druid-X is free.  I added the main mast to provide some sense of proportion.  This thing is going to be tall, that is for sure.
 
Next task is going to be the deck beams and then the mast step.  I am hopeful the completed decks will slide (easily) in and out.  That will help with fitting, gluing and access.
 
The vision is starting to take shape.
 
Keep Building my Friends,
Mark

More progress, The cobwebs are being cleaned out!
 
Next was the linings for the gunports.  With everything planked and painted I was not going for actual methods here (plus it follows the same method I used on the full hull model).  First issue was to reinforce the ribs where the cuts are to occur so I added spacers.  I wanted the resultant cut to result in a firm ledge for the base sill so I insured the correct angle with a piece of wood that went all the way through the hull.  Then the spacer material was slid in, marked then cut.
 

 
After gluing in top and bottom sill I again used the long piece of wood to verify it was laying flat.  You can see the port templates I made to continually check the resultant hole was consistent with the other ones and correct with regards to the plans.
 

 
The side sills were then measured and cut out in a similar manner.  Then once again a whole lot of gentle sanding to get the hull back into the correct profile.  The top of the second gun port is the railing so the rest of the rib (jig) was removed since it was no longer required.
 

 
These sills need to get painted red prior to planking the outside - which will be yellow.  Next up are the gun and forecastle deck clamps.
 
Mark

Getting back into it means re-igniting a lot of brain cells and old memories.  Returning to the hull I spent a few hours sanding (and more sanding) (and more sanding) to get the whole hull trued up inside and out - primarily on the upper untouched surfaces.  I think I am now pretty close.
 
Using the power of the Hahn method, transferring the plan key points to the hull was done quickly and very accurately.  This included the top railing location (cut off point from the jig), gun and forecastle deck beams, and the four gun ports included in this cross section:
 

 
The biggest lines to add are the main chains, which I need to use another sheet of the plans to locate.  My next jobs are to cut and insert the gun port linings and also add the other deck clamps.  This will allow me to add the actual deck beams and get the mast footing in and all lined up.
 
As a side project I am starting to think through the crew.  This will not be a sterile cross section.  I got for last Christmas the following 1/48 figures:
 

 
My initial list shows the following requirements:
Cannon Crew:  3 figures
Officer:  2 figures
Deck Scrubber:  1 figure
Rigger on Spar:  2 figures
Ratline climbers:  2 figures
Person in hold:  1 figure
People in hammocks:  2 figures
 
Am I missing anyone?  That would be 13 figures.  I am going to sort through the 36 figures (2 of each pictured) and start defining who will be used for what.  There will be amputations, putty and maybe even some molded parts.  A nice side project when things are drying.
 
Another consideration I have to figure out sooner than later is what type of paint to use (and also primer).  This will be a painted ship.  The hull will be yellow and black (blue accents), gun deck red (except the floor), everything below deck white.  Mast will be white with Black tops.  I will need to start doing some experimentation on some extra basswood.
 
I need to get the wales black before adding additional planking next to it - much easier.  Still undecided on coppering the bottom or just painting white.
 
That is enough for now,
Mark

On to the bibs.  One lesson learned I have taken to heart is when working with a complex mating surface (ie non straight) I do not cut the whole part to shape and hope for the best.  I always have to file a little here, scrape a little there with the result being the constructed piece is just a little 'off' on one face or another.  This is especially true for me for stems.
 
So, I focus on one edge at a time, starting with the mating edge required.  The target shape was cut out of the mast join and then (supposedly) transferred to the oversized piece and cut out:
 

 
Once the join was satisfactory I marked and cut out the top edge, insuring it totally aligned with the bib top on the mast.
 

 
Now the curving part is easy (compared to the rest).  The curves where drawn out, cut and sanded.  Before gluing I produced the other bib piece (marking the finished one with which side it belongs to FIRST).  Replicating the curve was much easier piece to piece off ship.  After all that work (maybe two hours in the workshop) I glued the bib pieces on.
 

 
Looking at the plans for  the two thousandth time afterwards I did realize the bibs were not only supposed to support the top beam but also slightly go into the topmast space.  Initially you wonder how the heck that happened.  I finally opted to laminate a 1/32" piece of basswood on the inside face for this issue.  The top will be painted (black) and it will be basically invisible (unless pointed out, which I try not to do).  So, reprieve and lesson learned for the next mast down the road.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

More progress, The cobwebs are being cleaned out!
 
Next was the linings for the gunports.  With everything planked and painted I was not going for actual methods here (plus it follows the same method I used on the full hull model).  First issue was to reinforce the ribs where the cuts are to occur so I added spacers.  I wanted the resultant cut to result in a firm ledge for the base sill so I insured the correct angle with a piece of wood that went all the way through the hull.  Then the spacer material was slid in, marked then cut.
 

 
After gluing in top and bottom sill I again used the long piece of wood to verify it was laying flat.  You can see the port templates I made to continually check the resultant hole was consistent with the other ones and correct with regards to the plans.
 

 
The side sills were then measured and cut out in a similar manner.  Then once again a whole lot of gentle sanding to get the hull back into the correct profile.  The top of the second gun port is the railing so the rest of the rib (jig) was removed since it was no longer required.
 

 
These sills need to get painted red prior to planking the outside - which will be yellow.  Next up are the gun and forecastle deck clamps.
 
Mark

More progress, The cobwebs are being cleaned out!
 
Next was the linings for the gunports.  With everything planked and painted I was not going for actual methods here (plus it follows the same method I used on the full hull model).  First issue was to reinforce the ribs where the cuts are to occur so I added spacers.  I wanted the resultant cut to result in a firm ledge for the base sill so I insured the correct angle with a piece of wood that went all the way through the hull.  Then the spacer material was slid in, marked then cut.
 

 
After gluing in top and bottom sill I again used the long piece of wood to verify it was laying flat.  You can see the port templates I made to continually check the resultant hole was consistent with the other ones and correct with regards to the plans.
 

 
The side sills were then measured and cut out in a similar manner.  Then once again a whole lot of gentle sanding to get the hull back into the correct profile.  The top of the second gun port is the railing so the rest of the rib (jig) was removed since it was no longer required.
 

 
These sills need to get painted red prior to planking the outside - which will be yellow.  Next up are the gun and forecastle deck clamps.
 
Mark

beautiful work on that section Mark
 
Nils

Beautiful and precise work, Mark!

This 'step' is coming up soon (pun intended) and I ask for some recommendations.
 
The ship plans only show the mast step from the side:
 

 
This shows a step on the keelson that appears to be parallel the keelson.  Note that the forward well wall pushes against the forward part of the step (no space for wedges).  For my full ship model oh so many years ago I made my best guess at how to do this:
 

 
From other builds (and the TFFM) the steps tend to lie perpendicular to the keelson with wedges forward and aft on the keelson to affix at a particular spot.  I am leaning towards using this perpendicular step and not what I did on the original build.
 
Thoughts?  Again, this was originally an American built cargo vessel from 1774.
 
Mark

More progress, The cobwebs are being cleaned out!
 
Next was the linings for the gunports.  With everything planked and painted I was not going for actual methods here (plus it follows the same method I used on the full hull model).  First issue was to reinforce the ribs where the cuts are to occur so I added spacers.  I wanted the resultant cut to result in a firm ledge for the base sill so I insured the correct angle with a piece of wood that went all the way through the hull.  Then the spacer material was slid in, marked then cut.
 

 
After gluing in top and bottom sill I again used the long piece of wood to verify it was laying flat.  You can see the port templates I made to continually check the resultant hole was consistent with the other ones and correct with regards to the plans.
 

 
The side sills were then measured and cut out in a similar manner.  Then once again a whole lot of gentle sanding to get the hull back into the correct profile.  The top of the second gun port is the railing so the rest of the rib (jig) was removed since it was no longer required.
 

 
These sills need to get painted red prior to planking the outside - which will be yellow.  Next up are the gun and forecastle deck clamps.
 
Mark

More progress, The cobwebs are being cleaned out!
 
Next was the linings for the gunports.  With everything planked and painted I was not going for actual methods here (plus it follows the same method I used on the full hull model).  First issue was to reinforce the ribs where the cuts are to occur so I added spacers.  I wanted the resultant cut to result in a firm ledge for the base sill so I insured the correct angle with a piece of wood that went all the way through the hull.  Then the spacer material was slid in, marked then cut.
 

 
After gluing in top and bottom sill I again used the long piece of wood to verify it was laying flat.  You can see the port templates I made to continually check the resultant hole was consistent with the other ones and correct with regards to the plans.
 

 
The side sills were then measured and cut out in a similar manner.  Then once again a whole lot of gentle sanding to get the hull back into the correct profile.  The top of the second gun port is the railing so the rest of the rib (jig) was removed since it was no longer required.
 

 
These sills need to get painted red prior to planking the outside - which will be yellow.  Next up are the gun and forecastle deck clamps.
 
Mark

More progress, The cobwebs are being cleaned out!
 
Next was the linings for the gunports.  With everything planked and painted I was not going for actual methods here (plus it follows the same method I used on the full hull model).  First issue was to reinforce the ribs where the cuts are to occur so I added spacers.  I wanted the resultant cut to result in a firm ledge for the base sill so I insured the correct angle with a piece of wood that went all the way through the hull.  Then the spacer material was slid in, marked then cut.
 

 
After gluing in top and bottom sill I again used the long piece of wood to verify it was laying flat.  You can see the port templates I made to continually check the resultant hole was consistent with the other ones and correct with regards to the plans.
 

 
The side sills were then measured and cut out in a similar manner.  Then once again a whole lot of gentle sanding to get the hull back into the correct profile.  The top of the second gun port is the railing so the rest of the rib (jig) was removed since it was no longer required.
 

 
These sills need to get painted red prior to planking the outside - which will be yellow.  Next up are the gun and forecastle deck clamps.
 
Mark

More progress, The cobwebs are being cleaned out!
 
Next was the linings for the gunports.  With everything planked and painted I was not going for actual methods here (plus it follows the same method I used on the full hull model).  First issue was to reinforce the ribs where the cuts are to occur so I added spacers.  I wanted the resultant cut to result in a firm ledge for the base sill so I insured the correct angle with a piece of wood that went all the way through the hull.  Then the spacer material was slid in, marked then cut.
 

 
After gluing in top and bottom sill I again used the long piece of wood to verify it was laying flat.  You can see the port templates I made to continually check the resultant hole was consistent with the other ones and correct with regards to the plans.
 

 
The side sills were then measured and cut out in a similar manner.  Then once again a whole lot of gentle sanding to get the hull back into the correct profile.  The top of the second gun port is the railing so the rest of the rib (jig) was removed since it was no longer required.
 

 
These sills need to get painted red prior to planking the outside - which will be yellow.  Next up are the gun and forecastle deck clamps.
 
Mark

Getting back into it means re-igniting a lot of brain cells and old memories.  Returning to the hull I spent a few hours sanding (and more sanding) (and more sanding) to get the whole hull trued up inside and out - primarily on the upper untouched surfaces.  I think I am now pretty close.
 
Using the power of the Hahn method, transferring the plan key points to the hull was done quickly and very accurately.  This included the top railing location (cut off point from the jig), gun and forecastle deck beams, and the four gun ports included in this cross section:
 

 
The biggest lines to add are the main chains, which I need to use another sheet of the plans to locate.  My next jobs are to cut and insert the gun port linings and also add the other deck clamps.  This will allow me to add the actual deck beams and get the mast footing in and all lined up.
 
As a side project I am starting to think through the crew.  This will not be a sterile cross section.  I got for last Christmas the following 1/48 figures:
 

 
My initial list shows the following requirements:
Cannon Crew:  3 figures
Officer:  2 figures
Deck Scrubber:  1 figure
Rigger on Spar:  2 figures
Ratline climbers:  2 figures
Person in hold:  1 figure
People in hammocks:  2 figures
 
Am I missing anyone?  That would be 13 figures.  I am going to sort through the 36 figures (2 of each pictured) and start defining who will be used for what.  There will be amputations, putty and maybe even some molded parts.  A nice side project when things are drying.
 
Another consideration I have to figure out sooner than later is what type of paint to use (and also primer).  This will be a painted ship.  The hull will be yellow and black (blue accents), gun deck red (except the floor), everything below deck white.  Mast will be white with Black tops.  I will need to start doing some experimentation on some extra basswood.
 
I need to get the wales black before adding additional planking next to it - much easier.  Still undecided on coppering the bottom or just painting white.
 
That is enough for now,
Mark

Getting back into it means re-igniting a lot of brain cells and old memories.  Returning to the hull I spent a few hours sanding (and more sanding) (and more sanding) to get the whole hull trued up inside and out - primarily on the upper untouched surfaces.  I think I am now pretty close.
 
Using the power of the Hahn method, transferring the plan key points to the hull was done quickly and very accurately.  This included the top railing location (cut off point from the jig), gun and forecastle deck beams, and the four gun ports included in this cross section:
 

 
The biggest lines to add are the main chains, which I need to use another sheet of the plans to locate.  My next jobs are to cut and insert the gun port linings and also add the other deck clamps.  This will allow me to add the actual deck beams and get the mast footing in and all lined up.
 
As a side project I am starting to think through the crew.  This will not be a sterile cross section.  I got for last Christmas the following 1/48 figures:
 

 
My initial list shows the following requirements:
Cannon Crew:  3 figures
Officer:  2 figures
Deck Scrubber:  1 figure
Rigger on Spar:  2 figures
Ratline climbers:  2 figures
Person in hold:  1 figure
People in hammocks:  2 figures
 
Am I missing anyone?  That would be 13 figures.  I am going to sort through the 36 figures (2 of each pictured) and start defining who will be used for what.  There will be amputations, putty and maybe even some molded parts.  A nice side project when things are drying.
 
Another consideration I have to figure out sooner than later is what type of paint to use (and also primer).  This will be a painted ship.  The hull will be yellow and black (blue accents), gun deck red (except the floor), everything below deck white.  Mast will be white with Black tops.  I will need to start doing some experimentation on some extra basswood.
 
I need to get the wales black before adding additional planking next to it - much easier.  Still undecided on coppering the bottom or just painting white.
 
That is enough for now,
Mark

Getting back into it means re-igniting a lot of brain cells and old memories.  Returning to the hull I spent a few hours sanding (and more sanding) (and more sanding) to get the whole hull trued up inside and out - primarily on the upper untouched surfaces.  I think I am now pretty close.
 
Using the power of the Hahn method, transferring the plan key points to the hull was done quickly and very accurately.  This included the top railing location (cut off point from the jig), gun and forecastle deck beams, and the four gun ports included in this cross section:
 

 
The biggest lines to add are the main chains, which I need to use another sheet of the plans to locate.  My next jobs are to cut and insert the gun port linings and also add the other deck clamps.  This will allow me to add the actual deck beams and get the mast footing in and all lined up.
 
As a side project I am starting to think through the crew.  This will not be a sterile cross section.  I got for last Christmas the following 1/48 figures:
 

 
My initial list shows the following requirements:
Cannon Crew:  3 figures
Officer:  2 figures
Deck Scrubber:  1 figure
Rigger on Spar:  2 figures
Ratline climbers:  2 figures
Person in hold:  1 figure
People in hammocks:  2 figures
 
Am I missing anyone?  That would be 13 figures.  I am going to sort through the 36 figures (2 of each pictured) and start defining who will be used for what.  There will be amputations, putty and maybe even some molded parts.  A nice side project when things are drying.
 
Another consideration I have to figure out sooner than later is what type of paint to use (and also primer).  This will be a painted ship.  The hull will be yellow and black (blue accents), gun deck red (except the floor), everything below deck white.  Mast will be white with Black tops.  I will need to start doing some experimentation on some extra basswood.
 
I need to get the wales black before adding additional planking next to it - much easier.  Still undecided on coppering the bottom or just painting white.
 
That is enough for now,
Mark

Getting back into it means re-igniting a lot of brain cells and old memories.  Returning to the hull I spent a few hours sanding (and more sanding) (and more sanding) to get the whole hull trued up inside and out - primarily on the upper untouched surfaces.  I think I am now pretty close.
 
Using the power of the Hahn method, transferring the plan key points to the hull was done quickly and very accurately.  This included the top railing location (cut off point from the jig), gun and forecastle deck beams, and the four gun ports included in this cross section:
 

 
The biggest lines to add are the main chains, which I need to use another sheet of the plans to locate.  My next jobs are to cut and insert the gun port linings and also add the other deck clamps.  This will allow me to add the actual deck beams and get the mast footing in and all lined up.
 
As a side project I am starting to think through the crew.  This will not be a sterile cross section.  I got for last Christmas the following 1/48 figures:
 

 
My initial list shows the following requirements:
Cannon Crew:  3 figures
Officer:  2 figures
Deck Scrubber:  1 figure
Rigger on Spar:  2 figures
Ratline climbers:  2 figures
Person in hold:  1 figure
People in hammocks:  2 figures
 
Am I missing anyone?  That would be 13 figures.  I am going to sort through the 36 figures (2 of each pictured) and start defining who will be used for what.  There will be amputations, putty and maybe even some molded parts.  A nice side project when things are drying.
 
Another consideration I have to figure out sooner than later is what type of paint to use (and also primer).  This will be a painted ship.  The hull will be yellow and black (blue accents), gun deck red (except the floor), everything below deck white.  Mast will be white with Black tops.  I will need to start doing some experimentation on some extra basswood.
 
I need to get the wales black before adding additional planking next to it - much easier.  Still undecided on coppering the bottom or just painting white.
 
That is enough for now,
Mark

Getting back into it means re-igniting a lot of brain cells and old memories.  Returning to the hull I spent a few hours sanding (and more sanding) (and more sanding) to get the whole hull trued up inside and out - primarily on the upper untouched surfaces.  I think I am now pretty close.
 
Using the power of the Hahn method, transferring the plan key points to the hull was done quickly and very accurately.  This included the top railing location (cut off point from the jig), gun and forecastle deck beams, and the four gun ports included in this cross section:
 

 
The biggest lines to add are the main chains, which I need to use another sheet of the plans to locate.  My next jobs are to cut and insert the gun port linings and also add the other deck clamps.  This will allow me to add the actual deck beams and get the mast footing in and all lined up.
 
As a side project I am starting to think through the crew.  This will not be a sterile cross section.  I got for last Christmas the following 1/48 figures:
 

 
My initial list shows the following requirements:
Cannon Crew:  3 figures
Officer:  2 figures
Deck Scrubber:  1 figure
Rigger on Spar:  2 figures
Ratline climbers:  2 figures
Person in hold:  1 figure
People in hammocks:  2 figures
 
Am I missing anyone?  That would be 13 figures.  I am going to sort through the 36 figures (2 of each pictured) and start defining who will be used for what.  There will be amputations, putty and maybe even some molded parts.  A nice side project when things are drying.
 
Another consideration I have to figure out sooner than later is what type of paint to use (and also primer).  This will be a painted ship.  The hull will be yellow and black (blue accents), gun deck red (except the floor), everything below deck white.  Mast will be white with Black tops.  I will need to start doing some experimentation on some extra basswood.
 
I need to get the wales black before adding additional planking next to it - much easier.  Still undecided on coppering the bottom or just painting white.
 
That is enough for now,
Mark

Moving forward as time allows.
 
Buttoned up the lower hold inner planking:
 

 
Big item for me is a self imposed milestone, with the addition of the keel, false keel (purpleheart of course) and garboard strake I have now surpassed the initial build in completeness.  
 

 
It wasn't a quick redo by any stretch but one I have no regrets for.
 
I now need to add the 3/32" planks next to the wales and think about painting them black while it is still easy.  I also want to get some deck beams in and maybe start getting a main mast prototyped out.  Oh, a stand.  Alright, a long list of things.
 
Always a next step....
Mark

As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words...
 

 
Finished the 'stuff next to the thickstuff' and added the proposed filler pieces on one half of the ship (between the limber strake and keelson).  These pieces are not glued.  The one piece missing is where the pump is located.
 
Next up is the regular planks in the tween spaces and ponder the filling pieces in the meanwhile.
 
Mark