kruginmi

Thanks Eamonn for the kind words.  I am trying to make this the year of finishing things and I have been laser sighted on the Druid.  The Lady Anne is always at arms length (put in ordinary) and is definitely next on the list (with hope to also finish prior to the end of the year).  I am actually asked by the Admiral how the progress is going so that is a good thing.
 
I have been keeping track of time spent (and wood used) and am constantly amazed at how the numbers keep climbing up.  With continued focus I am hoping to complete in the June time frame....
 
Stay building my friend,
Mark

Hi again Mark, so this is where you have been hiding  I was following along the Lady Anne, and you vanished !   I see your time has been well spent as this build is simply beautiful ! it has been a pleasure to go through the previous pages and catch up !
 
Take Care Mate
 
Eamonn

So now it’s time to attach the chain plates and deadeyes.   To do that, I will need sixteen 1/8” (about 3mm) deadeyes.  Yes, I could buy them but where’s the fun in that?  Some time ago I remember seeing a jig a forum member had made to make deadeyes.  So working from memory this is my, I think, third jig.  You don’t want to see the first two. 
 
First on a .005” brass strip I used for a template, I drew a 1/8” diameter circle and located three .020” holes.  My second try looked OK.  I had a scrap of hard wood, (I don’t know woods but I think it is rosewood.) 1/16” thick, I drilled a tight fit 1/8” hole in it to hold the deadeye while drilling the lanyard holes.  All this was mounted to a piece of scrap wood.
 
The first wood I tried for the deadeyes was too soft and fell apart after drilling.  So I turned a piece of straight grained walnut (I do know some woods) before my lathe quit, to 1/8” and it worked fine.    Being held together by a single screw you drop in the blank, pivot the holder over the base and drill one hole.  Then, I found out the hard way, put a pin in that first hole to hold the deadeye in place as you drill the other two holes. 
 
That’s it, and now I have to do it again.  I need four .09” diameter deadeyes.  Oh well.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Build log part 23
 
 
 
I would so much like to carry on with the bow area, but realize that there is a lot to still be done underneath the forecastle deck first. Think I will have do the stove and other Details in near future
 
 

the portside guns will be rigged Standing on the Support rails under the carriage wheels
 

all te svivel gunposts are only in "raw" condition, may want to get them 8-sided in upper portions
 

Status overview
 

just Setting the new guns in place for Dimension checking
 
 

I tryed to get the rudder coppering only, shiny again, used Lemon concentrate Juice, it works very easy
but I don`t know if I should have done that. I love the greenish Patina look like some others have tryed already
 
 
 
Nils

Thanks Nils, Ed, Jay and Russ for the compliments.  Jay - yes those slots are for the channels.  Almost a whoops there since I had almost glued in the molding over them before almost by chance remembering I needed to keep that clear.  The actual channels are roughed in and off to the side currently.
 
Now for the mast partners.  I had never really thought these through but had 'assumed' the normal fashion a ring and slip it over the mast and rest on the deck.  As I went over what had to be done I had one of those ah-ha moments where I realized the process was almost as complicated as the 'real' process.  Why not?  (bashing / scratch is so liberating - hah, hah).
 
First obstacle was that the deck hole was currently a snug fit for the mast and had to be enlarged, but by how much?  I affixed four 1/32" pieces to the mast and measured the resultant opening.   Also VERY important to trace the deck profile onto the mast since the partners are not at 90 degree angle to the mast.
 

 
This was then transferred to the deck and the hole suitably enlarged.  I measured the outside circumference of the new hole to define a uniform wedge size.  Then using some wood from the scrap pile (I  believe 1/8") I cut out that width and using a jig cut the tail down to the target 1/32".  The back of the wedge was sanded to the profile of the mast and the edges hand cut to the necessary bevel.  Each wedge had to be checked against the deck profile (drawn onto the mast) to insure the correct slant was added to the deck mating section.
 

 
Once all the wedges were attached there was point sanding to smooth / round things out.  I should note that I periodically checked the fit against the deck as the wedges were attached.  I still have some more refining to do but it works out to around an hour per mast partner.  Still have the main and foremast to do, hopefully today.
 

 
-mark

Thanks for all the likes!
 
7 hours and 180 pieces of wood (and counting) the bulkheads are pretty close to done.  Still need the hinges and door knobs to make the doors pop and the gel coating will help accentuate the paneling.
 

 
I also will add some pieces on the fore and aft panel between the beams to clean up the top edge and provide some added strength to keep it from shifting in the future.  With the deck extension the British added these bulkheads are pretty far under the quarterdeck lip.  I will keep a gap in the floor planking for some glimpses.
 

 
Now on to the mast partners.....
 
-mark

On to the bulkheads!  The windows ended up being 66 different pieces of wood, it will be interesting to see how many pieces are used for these 3 panels.
 
The approach for the 3 panels (2 cross ship, one bow and aft connecting) was to use a 3 ply sandwich of 1/32" basswood, used on other builds in this forum.  The middle piece is a solid piece of wood with the 2 other being trim pieces added to give the look of fancier paneling.
 
The initial form was defined through the use of cereal box cardboard.  If any one needs that detail let me know, but needless to say it took around 3-4 iterations before I was satisfied (around a full size Cheerio box - hah, hah).  Once I was satisfied with the fit I transferred to the basswood and cut out:
 

 
The panels were cut to fit under a defined deck beam, flush with the rear edge.  You can see in the above photo the Legos used to help hold things up (another great idea from this forum).  I then defined the doorway locations which required more effort than I thought.  The original location looked great but upon trying the panel in location was obvious had an issue with the location of the stairs to the berth deck.  I moved them farther out but then realized the door locations had to be equivalent on the aft bulkhead for the connecting partition to work and, of course, they were now too far out.  So....third time the charm and I got to an acceptable location:
 

 
The connecting panel was added and the trim work to allow them to connect.  I added some preliminary trim pieces to check out the pattern I sought after, but it is still incomplete.  The doors will not have windows added to them.
 

 
A final check required before the push to complete the panels was to add the other quarterdeck beams.  I love it when a plan comes together:
 

 
Tonight the plan is to complete the trim pieces on all three panels, add solid 3/32" pieces of wood between the beams on the fore and aft piece for strength and a more finished look.  The metalwork for the hinges and door knobs will be this weekend.  Then the pieces get stored away until the cannon carriage bolts are affixed.
 
Not too much work, but a tremendous change in visual appeal.
 
-mark
 
 
 
 
 

For a second go I used the shank of a drill bit to achieve around a 50% reduction in ring size for the eyebolts affixed to the hull.  The hanging ring I kept at the 4P nail size.
 

 
This achieves the look I had in my mind.  I now have to find my Zen, a comfortable spot and produce 90+ of the eyebolts.  Then after cleaning and blackening I will put them aside until the gun deck is totally gel coated before gluing them in using CYA glue. I hope this ends up being this weekend!
 
Stay Building, My Friends,
Mark

For a second go I used the shank of a drill bit to achieve around a 50% reduction in ring size for the eyebolts affixed to the hull.  The hanging ring I kept at the 4P nail size.
 

 
This achieves the look I had in my mind.  I now have to find my Zen, a comfortable spot and produce 90+ of the eyebolts.  Then after cleaning and blackening I will put them aside until the gun deck is totally gel coated before gluing them in using CYA glue. I hope this ends up being this weekend!
 
Stay Building, My Friends,
Mark

Thanks everyone for looking, with your motivation I am almost buttoning this gun deck up! 
 
One of the last things is to affix the cannon tackle (port tackle eybolts on top, breeching ringbolts on bottom each side of cannon).
 
For my prototype I used 28 gauge wire and a 4p nail.
 

 
It looks to me I need to go with a smaller nail.  Given that their will be no cannon I am also leaning towards having no breaching ring hanging off the ringbolt for a cleaner look (the right side of the pic).
 
Any comments?
 
-mark

Thanks Nils, Ed, Jay and Russ for the compliments.  Jay - yes those slots are for the channels.  Almost a whoops there since I had almost glued in the molding over them before almost by chance remembering I needed to keep that clear.  The actual channels are roughed in and off to the side currently.
 
Now for the mast partners.  I had never really thought these through but had 'assumed' the normal fashion a ring and slip it over the mast and rest on the deck.  As I went over what had to be done I had one of those ah-ha moments where I realized the process was almost as complicated as the 'real' process.  Why not?  (bashing / scratch is so liberating - hah, hah).
 
First obstacle was that the deck hole was currently a snug fit for the mast and had to be enlarged, but by how much?  I affixed four 1/32" pieces to the mast and measured the resultant opening.   Also VERY important to trace the deck profile onto the mast since the partners are not at 90 degree angle to the mast.
 

 
This was then transferred to the deck and the hole suitably enlarged.  I measured the outside circumference of the new hole to define a uniform wedge size.  Then using some wood from the scrap pile (I  believe 1/8") I cut out that width and using a jig cut the tail down to the target 1/32".  The back of the wedge was sanded to the profile of the mast and the edges hand cut to the necessary bevel.  Each wedge had to be checked against the deck profile (drawn onto the mast) to insure the correct slant was added to the deck mating section.
 

 
Once all the wedges were attached there was point sanding to smooth / round things out.  I should note that I periodically checked the fit against the deck as the wedges were attached.  I still have some more refining to do but it works out to around an hour per mast partner.  Still have the main and foremast to do, hopefully today.
 

 
-mark

For a second go I used the shank of a drill bit to achieve around a 50% reduction in ring size for the eyebolts affixed to the hull.  The hanging ring I kept at the 4P nail size.
 

 
This achieves the look I had in my mind.  I now have to find my Zen, a comfortable spot and produce 90+ of the eyebolts.  Then after cleaning and blackening I will put them aside until the gun deck is totally gel coated before gluing them in using CYA glue. I hope this ends up being this weekend!
 
Stay Building, My Friends,
Mark

Thanks for all the likes!
 
7 hours and 180 pieces of wood (and counting) the bulkheads are pretty close to done.  Still need the hinges and door knobs to make the doors pop and the gel coating will help accentuate the paneling.
 

 
I also will add some pieces on the fore and aft panel between the beams to clean up the top edge and provide some added strength to keep it from shifting in the future.  With the deck extension the British added these bulkheads are pretty far under the quarterdeck lip.  I will keep a gap in the floor planking for some glimpses.
 

 
Now on to the mast partners.....
 
-mark

On to the bulkheads!  The windows ended up being 66 different pieces of wood, it will be interesting to see how many pieces are used for these 3 panels.
 
The approach for the 3 panels (2 cross ship, one bow and aft connecting) was to use a 3 ply sandwich of 1/32" basswood, used on other builds in this forum.  The middle piece is a solid piece of wood with the 2 other being trim pieces added to give the look of fancier paneling.
 
The initial form was defined through the use of cereal box cardboard.  If any one needs that detail let me know, but needless to say it took around 3-4 iterations before I was satisfied (around a full size Cheerio box - hah, hah).  Once I was satisfied with the fit I transferred to the basswood and cut out:
 

 
The panels were cut to fit under a defined deck beam, flush with the rear edge.  You can see in the above photo the Legos used to help hold things up (another great idea from this forum).  I then defined the doorway locations which required more effort than I thought.  The original location looked great but upon trying the panel in location was obvious had an issue with the location of the stairs to the berth deck.  I moved them farther out but then realized the door locations had to be equivalent on the aft bulkhead for the connecting partition to work and, of course, they were now too far out.  So....third time the charm and I got to an acceptable location:
 

 
The connecting panel was added and the trim work to allow them to connect.  I added some preliminary trim pieces to check out the pattern I sought after, but it is still incomplete.  The doors will not have windows added to them.
 

 
A final check required before the push to complete the panels was to add the other quarterdeck beams.  I love it when a plan comes together:
 

 
Tonight the plan is to complete the trim pieces on all three panels, add solid 3/32" pieces of wood between the beams on the fore and aft piece for strength and a more finished look.  The metalwork for the hinges and door knobs will be this weekend.  Then the pieces get stored away until the cannon carriage bolts are affixed.
 
Not too much work, but a tremendous change in visual appeal.
 
-mark
 
 
 
 
 

For a second go I used the shank of a drill bit to achieve around a 50% reduction in ring size for the eyebolts affixed to the hull.  The hanging ring I kept at the 4P nail size.
 

 
This achieves the look I had in my mind.  I now have to find my Zen, a comfortable spot and produce 90+ of the eyebolts.  Then after cleaning and blackening I will put them aside until the gun deck is totally gel coated before gluing them in using CYA glue. I hope this ends up being this weekend!
 
Stay Building, My Friends,
Mark

Thanks everyone for looking, with your motivation I am almost buttoning this gun deck up! 
 
One of the last things is to affix the cannon tackle (port tackle eybolts on top, breeching ringbolts on bottom each side of cannon).
 
For my prototype I used 28 gauge wire and a 4p nail.
 

 
It looks to me I need to go with a smaller nail.  Given that their will be no cannon I am also leaning towards having no breaching ring hanging off the ringbolt for a cleaner look (the right side of the pic).
 
Any comments?
 
-mark

Thanks Nils, Ed, Jay and Russ for the compliments.  Jay - yes those slots are for the channels.  Almost a whoops there since I had almost glued in the molding over them before almost by chance remembering I needed to keep that clear.  The actual channels are roughed in and off to the side currently.
 
Now for the mast partners.  I had never really thought these through but had 'assumed' the normal fashion a ring and slip it over the mast and rest on the deck.  As I went over what had to be done I had one of those ah-ha moments where I realized the process was almost as complicated as the 'real' process.  Why not?  (bashing / scratch is so liberating - hah, hah).
 
First obstacle was that the deck hole was currently a snug fit for the mast and had to be enlarged, but by how much?  I affixed four 1/32" pieces to the mast and measured the resultant opening.   Also VERY important to trace the deck profile onto the mast since the partners are not at 90 degree angle to the mast.
 

 
This was then transferred to the deck and the hole suitably enlarged.  I measured the outside circumference of the new hole to define a uniform wedge size.  Then using some wood from the scrap pile (I  believe 1/8") I cut out that width and using a jig cut the tail down to the target 1/32".  The back of the wedge was sanded to the profile of the mast and the edges hand cut to the necessary bevel.  Each wedge had to be checked against the deck profile (drawn onto the mast) to insure the correct slant was added to the deck mating section.
 

 
Once all the wedges were attached there was point sanding to smooth / round things out.  I should note that I periodically checked the fit against the deck as the wedges were attached.  I still have some more refining to do but it works out to around an hour per mast partner.  Still have the main and foremast to do, hopefully today.
 

 
-mark

Nils,  I am right with you in all you say.  I tell people my aim is better than folk art (no slam against folk art) but primarily it is Krug quality.  A site very much like this (over 10 years ago) had me stretch and decide I could undertake the Druid and I love adding all the individual features.  I also enjoy showing my kids that I am interacting with people all over the world (such as Germany).  Rigging is a stretch for another build (hah hah).  You find a subject that gives the motivation to keep at it.  Pegasus is a wonderful ship and you are doing it more than justice.
 
Stay building, my friend.
Mark

For a second go I used the shank of a drill bit to achieve around a 50% reduction in ring size for the eyebolts affixed to the hull.  The hanging ring I kept at the 4P nail size.
 

 
This achieves the look I had in my mind.  I now have to find my Zen, a comfortable spot and produce 90+ of the eyebolts.  Then after cleaning and blackening I will put them aside until the gun deck is totally gel coated before gluing them in using CYA glue. I hope this ends up being this weekend!
 
Stay Building, My Friends,
Mark

Christmas in April!!!     Wood has arrived from Jeff at Hobbymill.  Wonderful wood and it's perfectly dimensioned.  I'm plotting out the frame blanks and hope to start making sawdust later this evening.
 
Time to start getting this build back on the road.... err... building slip.  The wood isn't warped, the camera is having issues. I think it was the setting I choose.
 

Thanks everyone for looking, with your motivation I am almost buttoning this gun deck up! 
 
One of the last things is to affix the cannon tackle (port tackle eybolts on top, breeching ringbolts on bottom each side of cannon).
 
For my prototype I used 28 gauge wire and a 4p nail.
 

 
It looks to me I need to go with a smaller nail.  Given that their will be no cannon I am also leaning towards having no breaching ring hanging off the ringbolt for a cleaner look (the right side of the pic).
 
Any comments?
 
-mark

Thanks everyone for looking, with your motivation I am almost buttoning this gun deck up! 
 
One of the last things is to affix the cannon tackle (port tackle eybolts on top, breeching ringbolts on bottom each side of cannon).
 
For my prototype I used 28 gauge wire and a 4p nail.
 

 
It looks to me I need to go with a smaller nail.  Given that their will be no cannon I am also leaning towards having no breaching ring hanging off the ringbolt for a cleaner look (the right side of the pic).
 
Any comments?
 
-mark

Thanks Nils, Ed, Jay and Russ for the compliments.  Jay - yes those slots are for the channels.  Almost a whoops there since I had almost glued in the molding over them before almost by chance remembering I needed to keep that clear.  The actual channels are roughed in and off to the side currently.
 
Now for the mast partners.  I had never really thought these through but had 'assumed' the normal fashion a ring and slip it over the mast and rest on the deck.  As I went over what had to be done I had one of those ah-ha moments where I realized the process was almost as complicated as the 'real' process.  Why not?  (bashing / scratch is so liberating - hah, hah).
 
First obstacle was that the deck hole was currently a snug fit for the mast and had to be enlarged, but by how much?  I affixed four 1/32" pieces to the mast and measured the resultant opening.   Also VERY important to trace the deck profile onto the mast since the partners are not at 90 degree angle to the mast.
 

 
This was then transferred to the deck and the hole suitably enlarged.  I measured the outside circumference of the new hole to define a uniform wedge size.  Then using some wood from the scrap pile (I  believe 1/8") I cut out that width and using a jig cut the tail down to the target 1/32".  The back of the wedge was sanded to the profile of the mast and the edges hand cut to the necessary bevel.  Each wedge had to be checked against the deck profile (drawn onto the mast) to insure the correct slant was added to the deck mating section.
 

 
Once all the wedges were attached there was point sanding to smooth / round things out.  I should note that I periodically checked the fit against the deck as the wedges were attached.  I still have some more refining to do but it works out to around an hour per mast partner.  Still have the main and foremast to do, hopefully today.
 

 
-mark

Thanks Nils, Ed, Jay and Russ for the compliments.  Jay - yes those slots are for the channels.  Almost a whoops there since I had almost glued in the molding over them before almost by chance remembering I needed to keep that clear.  The actual channels are roughed in and off to the side currently.
 
Now for the mast partners.  I had never really thought these through but had 'assumed' the normal fashion a ring and slip it over the mast and rest on the deck.  As I went over what had to be done I had one of those ah-ha moments where I realized the process was almost as complicated as the 'real' process.  Why not?  (bashing / scratch is so liberating - hah, hah).
 
First obstacle was that the deck hole was currently a snug fit for the mast and had to be enlarged, but by how much?  I affixed four 1/32" pieces to the mast and measured the resultant opening.   Also VERY important to trace the deck profile onto the mast since the partners are not at 90 degree angle to the mast.
 

 
This was then transferred to the deck and the hole suitably enlarged.  I measured the outside circumference of the new hole to define a uniform wedge size.  Then using some wood from the scrap pile (I  believe 1/8") I cut out that width and using a jig cut the tail down to the target 1/32".  The back of the wedge was sanded to the profile of the mast and the edges hand cut to the necessary bevel.  Each wedge had to be checked against the deck profile (drawn onto the mast) to insure the correct slant was added to the deck mating section.
 

 
Once all the wedges were attached there was point sanding to smooth / round things out.  I should note that I periodically checked the fit against the deck as the wedges were attached.  I still have some more refining to do but it works out to around an hour per mast partner.  Still have the main and foremast to do, hopefully today.
 

 
-mark

Outstanding work. Your attention to detail is great. Nice work. Thanks for sharing it.
 
Later Tim