popeye the sailor

she coming along really good Chris.........you've got such a knack for these models!  

I was at the local Hobby Lobby one day,  and I got a chance to speak to a person that does that very thing.   she takes a room and outfits it in interesting ways.  as she said,  her 'houses are larger than a regular doll house........no wonder why      I wanted to build a dollhouse for my granddaughter.......the admiral told me that she was too much of a tom-boy.  recently, I got to see here and I brought it up........should have seen her eyes light up!  so.......who knows,  it might be on the table again   
 
it can be tough when you have a critic in the family  

I was at the local Hobby Lobby one day,  and I got a chance to speak to a person that does that very thing.   she takes a room and outfits it in interesting ways.  as she said,  her 'houses are larger than a regular doll house........no wonder why      I wanted to build a dollhouse for my granddaughter.......the admiral told me that she was too much of a tom-boy.  recently, I got to see here and I brought it up........should have seen her eyes light up!  so.......who knows,  it might be on the table again   
 
it can be tough when you have a critic in the family  

I wonder if the dollhouse scale is the same for these models.  at the Hobby Lobby I go to,  they have a section for dollhouses...quite a bit of stuff     there are different types.....I'd check it out to see if you could substitute it.   they even have wiring.  I'm sure there are shops like H.L. where you live   

I think it looks awesome........flaws?..........I don't see'um    a cozy place to read.......

it's a wonder why I didn't recall this.........we had trailers with single slider pins.  modern trailers have four,  two in front and two in back.  Wally phased out these trailers...not sure if there was a requirement for the newer system.  I looked at the back page of the instructions,  'cuz I knew that the slider actuator handle was included in the kit.



the G rails still need stop bars though....so I will add them.
 
....a funny story......
a trailer was brought to the shop {drive up,  as we call it} because the driver couldn't move the slider.  the common way to do this, is to chock a wheel position with a 4 x 4 block of Oak.  wood is the best form of chock,  guaranteed not to allow a trailer to 'drag'......ever this was unsuccessful.  so Jim and Little John {these two were inseparable } decided to get one of the trucks and free it by using the Jake brake.  our supervisor Paul was a little hesitant,  but Jim convinced him it would work....and so the 'go ahead' was given.  so,  here they are..........out in the yard,  hooked up to the trailer,  and driving it around the shop,  applying the Jake a few times.  I was talking to Paul,  being funny..............I started to mention a worst case scenario,  where the tandem gets ripped out.........when all of a sudden,  they applied the jake right in front of us!  what a noise it made!.....Paul was quite addled at this point....they were going probably around 30 MPH  when they did it.  they stopped..........of course the dolly moved....it had slid back.  when they backed the trailer up,  the rear stop bar fell out on the ground!  I saw Paul's face drop,  and the two backed the trailer up to the shop door.  by this time.......Paul didn't say anything.........he just turned and went back over to the truck side.  these two get out of the truck laughing.  it wasn't too long before the bar was welded back in place and the driver was hooked back up to the trailer.  you may be curious why they just didn't use the driver's truck to do this...........his truck was logged in assigned to the trailer.  if they would have used it,  Logistics would have been ALL over them....and the driver as well {for thinking  that HE did it}.
 
another funny story would be the day I showed these two how to make an Air Cannon...........but that's another day  

some were like that,  and some went all the way to the top.  Pine,  Trailmobile {AMT has the 'double header' kit out there},  they built them like that as well.  Great Dane and Hyundai got away from that and started lining them straight up to the roof in 14 1/2 strips,  either in wood or fiberglass / plastic.  the posts are so thin,  that they only give a wall depth of around 1/4 of an inches!  I've never seen one with a sky light,  but we have some that have round clear discs along the tops of the side walls.  they don't fair very well though...........many times I see one with one or two missing.
 
Wally is adamant about the inside wood lining........holes no bigger than your fist must be patched or the panel replaced,  they view it as a form of asset protection.....and rightly so.  I replaced a inner wall panel one day and found several CD cases of a popular game at the time.......the cases and instructions were there,  but the CD's were gone.  I turned them in to the boss and he took it from there.  I did find out about the slider mechanism........I'll tell yaz in a bit....Gibbs needs to go out 

sage advice Jack........I'll definitely keep that in mind {in the event that I lose mine  } 
 
some trailers do have them........most are older trailers though.   I've been seeing more companies leaning towards the container trailer.  the box is separate from the rail frame underneath.......mainly use in shipping to and from other countries by ship.  dry vans are good,  but they damage quite easily....means a lot of repairs.........a container is thick steel and hard to damage.  they are also stackable on the ship and at the yard.  since this trailer doesn't have one, it's a safe bet they weren't equipped with one.  as for the cargo........it probably wouldn't be hard to do.......haven't given it much thought.  I have the Budweiser wagon.......it has the cases of Bud,  but the decals are pretty bad.......after all, it is an old kit.  not only that,  they are stick ons .....YECH!!!!!!!
 
so I got a bit further with what I've done so far......the assembly should start picking up now.   the tandem dolly fits snug on the G rails,  as I mentioned earlier.  the G rails have holes for locking pins on the dolly to fit in,  so it won't move.  the dolly is moveable,  so the weight of the load can be adjusted,  to even out the weight across the axles {truck and trailer}.  on most trailers,  there are holes along the entire G rail.......on the model,  there is not.

seeing that I already have G rails in place,  it might be hard to drill them........but I do want to add the missing parts of the slider assembly.  usually there are four....two in the front and two in the back........but in this case,  since it's a short trailer,  I probably can get away with the two in the front.  I'll also need to add stop bars at the front and rear of the G rails.  more research needed....I'll see if I can find anything on this.

I made a goof already.........good thing it was an easy fix.  to keep the trailer in alignment,  you have the torque arms and radius rods.  they are attacked to the leaf saddles and the brackets on the axle tubes.  torque arms are always roadside,  and the radius rods curbside.  the old method for aligning a trailer {we have a portable alignment outfit}  is to align the rear axle and 'tram' the front axle to the rear.  adjustments are made at the torque arms.   to tram the front,  measure the distance from hub cap centers of the right side wheels and match them to the left side....adjusting the same way....at the torque arm.  my goof was that I didn't pay attention.....I just glues them in place.  thankfully,  they came off with little effort.  I cleaned up the mess and glued them on correctly.  I then turned to the interior.  the inner walls on these older trailer were mostly covered in plywood,  with scuff liners along the floor.  some have plastic dividers....some.....metal.........usually in 4' x 8' sheets.  now,  on 53 foot trailers,  there are thirteen a side {the last being a half sheet top and bottom}.  I' going to do this one another way, seen on newer trailers.  I bought some 1/16 x 1/16 evergreen strip for the dividers,  also simulated wall posts.  the riveted detail on the inner walls will be the guide to place them.  I cut a bunch of 3 1/2" strips,  and began gluing them on the inner wall.

I left room for the scuff liner at the bottom.......first one done.

once the other side was done,  I painted them with silver paint.  I'll let this dry over night


cutting the wood fillers is the next big task.  the front wall will also have a scuff liner and plywood.   the roof already has the roof bow detail molded onto it,  so I won't need to do anything with it.  hope to have more to show tomorrow
 

she coming along really good Chris.........you've got such a knack for these models!  

Evening all,    more work on my 54/55th   with Jackets  and Trousers  getting some colours  -  the trousers  were  in different  shades  based around an Off White  but often  the  basic  Fusilier  troops  would have what ever torusers were  available.
 
OC.

Thank you Ken,  yes indeed  they are very nice  figures  - only complaint  their Shakos are a we bit overscale, but  by keeping them in their own part of the dio, it shouldn't be that noticable.
 
OC.

Those KGL wounded look pretty good. Will be superb with your paint job.

Evening all,   more figure work  with both the French and  KGL,   I decided to prime a few of the resin  KGL  wounded  - think they look ok,  also  I have started  detail painting  some of the 54th and 55th  Ligne.
 
OC.

Thank you kindly Ken,   I am quite pleased  with the Satin  top coat on the Two horses  I  re did, I will do the same  to the others  after I flat coat  them with my airbrush.
 
OC.

Looks like you captured the appearances quite nicely. The horse and tack look very good. And all the riders are up to your usual standards.

Evening all,    Firstly can I say a Huge Thank You  for all the Likes and comments,    right  I made some good progress  today,   I finished off  both Major Baring's  second in command  and  my Third Hussar,   they both just need  flat top coating.
 
My  Satin top coat arrived  this morning , so  I tried it out on my Two  Cuirassier  horses  -  I did a good job of  creating a natural horse  coat sheen, but left the other  details nice and flat.
 
OC.

good you were able to sort out the tanks.  you a great job with stenciling........it looks so much better than with decals  

it's a wonder why I didn't recall this.........we had trailers with single slider pins.  modern trailers have four,  two in front and two in back.  Wally phased out these trailers...not sure if there was a requirement for the newer system.  I looked at the back page of the instructions,  'cuz I knew that the slider actuator handle was included in the kit.



the G rails still need stop bars though....so I will add them.
 
....a funny story......
a trailer was brought to the shop {drive up,  as we call it} because the driver couldn't move the slider.  the common way to do this, is to chock a wheel position with a 4 x 4 block of Oak.  wood is the best form of chock,  guaranteed not to allow a trailer to 'drag'......ever this was unsuccessful.  so Jim and Little John {these two were inseparable } decided to get one of the trucks and free it by using the Jake brake.  our supervisor Paul was a little hesitant,  but Jim convinced him it would work....and so the 'go ahead' was given.  so,  here they are..........out in the yard,  hooked up to the trailer,  and driving it around the shop,  applying the Jake a few times.  I was talking to Paul,  being funny..............I started to mention a worst case scenario,  where the tandem gets ripped out.........when all of a sudden,  they applied the jake right in front of us!  what a noise it made!.....Paul was quite addled at this point....they were going probably around 30 MPH  when they did it.  they stopped..........of course the dolly moved....it had slid back.  when they backed the trailer up,  the rear stop bar fell out on the ground!  I saw Paul's face drop,  and the two backed the trailer up to the shop door.  by this time.......Paul didn't say anything.........he just turned and went back over to the truck side.  these two get out of the truck laughing.  it wasn't too long before the bar was welded back in place and the driver was hooked back up to the trailer.  you may be curious why they just didn't use the driver's truck to do this...........his truck was logged in assigned to the trailer.  if they would have used it,  Logistics would have been ALL over them....and the driver as well {for thinking  that HE did it}.
 
another funny story would be the day I showed these two how to make an Air Cannon...........but that's another day  

some were like that,  and some went all the way to the top.  Pine,  Trailmobile {AMT has the 'double header' kit out there},  they built them like that as well.  Great Dane and Hyundai got away from that and started lining them straight up to the roof in 14 1/2 strips,  either in wood or fiberglass / plastic.  the posts are so thin,  that they only give a wall depth of around 1/4 of an inches!  I've never seen one with a sky light,  but we have some that have round clear discs along the tops of the side walls.  they don't fair very well though...........many times I see one with one or two missing.
 
Wally is adamant about the inside wood lining........holes no bigger than your fist must be patched or the panel replaced,  they view it as a form of asset protection.....and rightly so.  I replaced a inner wall panel one day and found several CD cases of a popular game at the time.......the cases and instructions were there,  but the CD's were gone.  I turned them in to the boss and he took it from there.  I did find out about the slider mechanism........I'll tell yaz in a bit....Gibbs needs to go out 

some really cool pieces there.........must have been fun being there     super planes Greg......a very nice dio! 

good you were able to sort out the tanks.  you a great job with stenciling........it looks so much better than with decals  

it's a wonder why I didn't recall this.........we had trailers with single slider pins.  modern trailers have four,  two in front and two in back.  Wally phased out these trailers...not sure if there was a requirement for the newer system.  I looked at the back page of the instructions,  'cuz I knew that the slider actuator handle was included in the kit.



the G rails still need stop bars though....so I will add them.
 
....a funny story......
a trailer was brought to the shop {drive up,  as we call it} because the driver couldn't move the slider.  the common way to do this, is to chock a wheel position with a 4 x 4 block of Oak.  wood is the best form of chock,  guaranteed not to allow a trailer to 'drag'......ever this was unsuccessful.  so Jim and Little John {these two were inseparable } decided to get one of the trucks and free it by using the Jake brake.  our supervisor Paul was a little hesitant,  but Jim convinced him it would work....and so the 'go ahead' was given.  so,  here they are..........out in the yard,  hooked up to the trailer,  and driving it around the shop,  applying the Jake a few times.  I was talking to Paul,  being funny..............I started to mention a worst case scenario,  where the tandem gets ripped out.........when all of a sudden,  they applied the jake right in front of us!  what a noise it made!.....Paul was quite addled at this point....they were going probably around 30 MPH  when they did it.  they stopped..........of course the dolly moved....it had slid back.  when they backed the trailer up,  the rear stop bar fell out on the ground!  I saw Paul's face drop,  and the two backed the trailer up to the shop door.  by this time.......Paul didn't say anything.........he just turned and went back over to the truck side.  these two get out of the truck laughing.  it wasn't too long before the bar was welded back in place and the driver was hooked back up to the trailer.  you may be curious why they just didn't use the driver's truck to do this...........his truck was logged in assigned to the trailer.  if they would have used it,  Logistics would have been ALL over them....and the driver as well {for thinking  that HE did it}.
 
another funny story would be the day I showed these two how to make an Air Cannon...........but that's another day  

some were like that,  and some went all the way to the top.  Pine,  Trailmobile {AMT has the 'double header' kit out there},  they built them like that as well.  Great Dane and Hyundai got away from that and started lining them straight up to the roof in 14 1/2 strips,  either in wood or fiberglass / plastic.  the posts are so thin,  that they only give a wall depth of around 1/4 of an inches!  I've never seen one with a sky light,  but we have some that have round clear discs along the tops of the side walls.  they don't fair very well though...........many times I see one with one or two missing.
 
Wally is adamant about the inside wood lining........holes no bigger than your fist must be patched or the panel replaced,  they view it as a form of asset protection.....and rightly so.  I replaced a inner wall panel one day and found several CD cases of a popular game at the time.......the cases and instructions were there,  but the CD's were gone.  I turned them in to the boss and he took it from there.  I did find out about the slider mechanism........I'll tell yaz in a bit....Gibbs needs to go out 

sage advice Jack........I'll definitely keep that in mind {in the event that I lose mine  } 
 
some trailers do have them........most are older trailers though.   I've been seeing more companies leaning towards the container trailer.  the box is separate from the rail frame underneath.......mainly use in shipping to and from other countries by ship.  dry vans are good,  but they damage quite easily....means a lot of repairs.........a container is thick steel and hard to damage.  they are also stackable on the ship and at the yard.  since this trailer doesn't have one, it's a safe bet they weren't equipped with one.  as for the cargo........it probably wouldn't be hard to do.......haven't given it much thought.  I have the Budweiser wagon.......it has the cases of Bud,  but the decals are pretty bad.......after all, it is an old kit.  not only that,  they are stick ons .....YECH!!!!!!!
 
so I got a bit further with what I've done so far......the assembly should start picking up now.   the tandem dolly fits snug on the G rails,  as I mentioned earlier.  the G rails have holes for locking pins on the dolly to fit in,  so it won't move.  the dolly is moveable,  so the weight of the load can be adjusted,  to even out the weight across the axles {truck and trailer}.  on most trailers,  there are holes along the entire G rail.......on the model,  there is not.

seeing that I already have G rails in place,  it might be hard to drill them........but I do want to add the missing parts of the slider assembly.  usually there are four....two in the front and two in the back........but in this case,  since it's a short trailer,  I probably can get away with the two in the front.  I'll also need to add stop bars at the front and rear of the G rails.  more research needed....I'll see if I can find anything on this.

I made a goof already.........good thing it was an easy fix.  to keep the trailer in alignment,  you have the torque arms and radius rods.  they are attacked to the leaf saddles and the brackets on the axle tubes.  torque arms are always roadside,  and the radius rods curbside.  the old method for aligning a trailer {we have a portable alignment outfit}  is to align the rear axle and 'tram' the front axle to the rear.  adjustments are made at the torque arms.   to tram the front,  measure the distance from hub cap centers of the right side wheels and match them to the left side....adjusting the same way....at the torque arm.  my goof was that I didn't pay attention.....I just glues them in place.  thankfully,  they came off with little effort.  I cleaned up the mess and glued them on correctly.  I then turned to the interior.  the inner walls on these older trailer were mostly covered in plywood,  with scuff liners along the floor.  some have plastic dividers....some.....metal.........usually in 4' x 8' sheets.  now,  on 53 foot trailers,  there are thirteen a side {the last being a half sheet top and bottom}.  I' going to do this one another way, seen on newer trailers.  I bought some 1/16 x 1/16 evergreen strip for the dividers,  also simulated wall posts.  the riveted detail on the inner walls will be the guide to place them.  I cut a bunch of 3 1/2" strips,  and began gluing them on the inner wall.

I left room for the scuff liner at the bottom.......first one done.

once the other side was done,  I painted them with silver paint.  I'll let this dry over night


cutting the wood fillers is the next big task.  the front wall will also have a scuff liner and plywood.   the roof already has the roof bow detail molded onto it,  so I won't need to do anything with it.  hope to have more to show tomorrow
 

great looking plane Greg!  nicely done