Adrieke

well it has been a very tiring week , with last Monday turning into a 20 hour work day (till 3:30 am).due to a virus attack
 
but I did get a fair bit done today
 
I have begun attaching the strakes. the cheap masking tape came in handy again to keep them in place
 
in the second picture you see that I still have to finish the hulls painting, but I am going to leave that until I have finished the strakes and some other stuff. then I will mount her on the pedestals and use some styrofoam to protect the hull.
 
I have also worked on the edges of the top fore and aft deck. there are a few inconsistencies in the pictures on how to do them but I think I got it sorted out. also some of the preformed edges are too long and have the wrong angles
 
 

thanks Augie
 
I have tied the 4 blocks on the bowsprit which is now ready to be installed when the time comes
 
I have added a few eyebolts to the foremast and finished spraying the undercoat on the rest of the parts
 
 
 
 

from my first few attempts , I think I ll need lots of practice and patience
 
taking a break from all the painting I have been doing I started working on the bowsprit
 
so far I have tapered it, stained it, drilled the holes for the brass rod and eyebolt and glued those in place
 

Today's task was - - - making planks for the dinghy.  I already cut several "planks" from a 1/4 inch thick poplar board that I ripped off at the band saw.  I cut them about 2 mm thick, way too thick for the dinghy planks but I planned in sanding them down quite bit anyhow.
 
Well, that's what I started on today working between a few tasks on the lobster smack kit.  I used a sanding disc in my Proxxon hand tool (Dremmel like ) and a sanding block and took them down to 1/2 mm.
Then I proceeded to sand down both edges to give each plank a wedge shape and cut them in half length wise.  Thus one edge is 1/2 mm thick and the other edge is a knife edge with a width of 3.2 mm.  This way I can lay the following plank on the "knife like" edge of the previous plank to simulate a klinker lay-up.
 
Scraping a step in a 1/2 mm edge is not possible with poplar wood, so I abandoned that idea.  With version 1.0 I sanded each plank after it was glued onto the frames but I thought doing this off the boat.  It's a lot easier to work it this way then on the dinghy.
 
I only got not quite haf way through all al the planks but tomorrow is another day.  Each plank is now 1/8 inch or 3.2 mm wide and 0.5 mm at the "thick" side. 
 
I did manage to drill a hole into the bow keel and inserted a bamboo treenail.  This whole framed assembly turned out quite strong.  It so happened that it got - - - hmmm - - manhandled a little but came through with flying colors.
 
Here is a picture of the work I managed to do today.  Yeah, my little work area is a little messy but I'm working on three models there and need all that "stuff."  
 

This shows the pile of planks for the dinghy.  The short pieces in front are ready for a soak in water to make them pliable to shape them on the dinghy.  
 
Cheers,

oh yeah forgot to post my wheel since you would never know I put a guy in there

Been putting items on over time. Here's the overview....
These anchor lines took me quite a while to do.
I am thinking of placing my pirates in these places. They are not glued down yet so if you have input now is the time

After 4 day's of trying to get the copperplates right on the rudder , it is done.
It was a lot of re-do but that's part of something I never done before.
Because I want to make a brick pattern on it and I ended with small pieces.
Lot of cutting and saying bad words when it was not right.....
I'm not fitting the rudder at this time because I have to figure out how the pintles are coming.
So the rudder goes into the complete box till I think that it is time to place it.
 
Sjors
 
 
 

Hello everyone and thanks to all for visiting and your likes.
 
I trust that all had a great Thanksgiving and a great Thursday for the non-Yanks.
 
I finished modding the bulkheads, at least to the point of gluing them to the keel frame, which I then did do.  It turned out that the most aft bulkhead, #4, sat too high on the keel frame by roughly 4 mm.  This is the location assigned to it per the drawing and instruction manual.  
I should have checked all the bulkheads for proper positioning before gluing them to the keel frame an not trust the kit maker for accuracy.  
Turned out that kit provided location for that bulkhead is in error, they should have slotted the keel frame a little.  Lesson learned, check positions of all parts before permanently cementing to whatever they are supposed to go.  I found this out when I tried to fit the "Keel Strip" per step 18 of the instruction manual.  At this #4 bulkhead the strip actually bowed upwards instead of making a nice positive bow down.
 
So, I removed #4 bulkhead and cut a notch into the keel frame to lower the bulkhead to the desired position and checked it again before gluing the bulkhead back on.  
 
I also found that the 1/16 notches in the bulkheads for these strips are not deep enough, at least not to my liking.  I had to enlarge then just a smidgen.  
The instructions have you used slow setting CA and only to apply the CA to the notches in the bulkheads.  To me that would make it too springy for the hul planking plates.  I think that I'll glue them on with PVA and clamp them, along the entire length of these strips and them fairing them following the rounded contours of the bulkheads.
 
I also found that the notches in frame 1 needed to be shaped in order for the 1/16 X 1/8 center battan to fit properly.  There is also an error in step 23 of the manual calling this battan 1/16 X 1/18 instead of 1/16 X 1/8 inch.  Yeah, okay, I'm picky but I keep thinking about the novice builder.
 
Just wondering here.  If this kit is supposed to be a Novice level 2 kit, who will these novices be?  Young people in their early teens?  Totally inexperienced adults who have nu clue about terms, tools and how to solve some of these annoying little inconsistencies?  Would they have experienced help nearby?  This could very well be very discouraging for them and ready to give up.
 
The error with bulkhead #4 may not be noticeable by a true novice and he or she would happily forge ahead with the result of an odd looking hull at the stern end.
 
I mention all this in case some inexperienced novice builder want to build this lovely little boat.  It's my humble opinion that the instructions lack extra notes and warnings to help the novice along.  
 
Okay, let me add two pics to show the progress with a few notes attached.
 

This shows the modified bulkheads numbered 4 at left bottom, # 2 at left top and # 3 at the right.  The keel frame sits nicely in it's dock.  I have annotated a few areas of interest.  At the keel, I have indicated where I cut a 4 mm slot to lower bulkhead 4 to it's proper position in the keel for a nice flowing bottom hull planking.  It's now also obvious that I will also lower that section of the keel frame aft of bulkhead 4.  There may be other changes in that area but I'll get to that later when I put the benches in.    It also shows the added blocks to give the bulkheads something to glue to after the keel frame was cut down for work area.
On bulkhead 3 I'll remove the two small horizontal pieces where the deck is supposed to be glued to and just make the leftover parts look more like frames. 
On bulkhead 2 I added a few curved pieces of wood to simulate frames.  Now I'm thinking of adding a bunch more fake frames between bulkheads #4 and #2. That means that the supplied deck plate will also be changed to just a cap rail over these frames.
 

Here I have glued all four bulkheads and the transom to the keel frame.  I'll most likely treenail the transom to the keel.  It's in my opinion not strong enough, it already popped off when trying to fit the 1/16 X 1/16 lower keel strip.
 
Cheers,

Hello every one.  I made a start with cutting away the parts I don't want in my mod.
 
First order of business was to make a working dock.  I didn't like the idea of using the box.  I'm cheep but that is below my standards.  I like a small and maneuvering dock where I can also check vertical and square, not that it seems to be needed but hey, I'm used to it.
 
I started with removing that part of the center keel where the little cabin will be and the center [art of the working deck.  There won't be much of a deck (floor) in the cabin but enough to get around in for the crew.  If I'm not mistaken there were only men working these small boats.  I also glued a few extra blocks to the keel for the modded bulkheads .  
 
As mentioned before, I will make the rudder workable and made a new rudder from poplar.  I used one of the extra stanchions for the O19 deck railing for the rudder pivot shaft.  Waste not want not    The tiller will have a brass pin at the end that'll slide into the horizontal brass tube part on top of the stanchion (see pic 3 below).  I need to figure out how to secure that so it won't pull out by some eager sailor.
 
Right now I'm thinking of glueing the side planking on first so I can mount the rudder hardware and rudder to the keel and have access to that helm stick attachment.  I can then cement a small ball on the aft end.  Also, with all these alterations inside the hull it's better to have the side planking on and the top open.
 
Okay, enough of my banter and a few pics to show the progress.  I am dividing my time between the dinghy for the O19 model and this model.  I'm switching days between the two. 
 

Here we see my build dock with the slightly modded keel frame.  Here i have removed the cabin and the center portion of the work area from the keel frame.  Granted that this whole are should be lower but for my purposes this'll have to suffice.  In the background you'll see the deck plate with my proposed section for removal. 
 

This shows the keel frame outside the dock with the portions of the keel removed and added mounting blocks for the bulkheads.  If you squint real hard you can see the rudder pivot pin in the slot made for the helm. As mentioned before I had to reinforce that are for the pin hole.  I also added a few strips for the deck plate.  Perhaps not needed but I had to back-drill through the top to make the rudder pivot pin hole and it really needed some extra beef there.
 

This is the new rudder and I have placed the pivot pin next to it so yuns can see how it's made.
 
Cheers,

hi Piet, thanks for the advice. and I agree with your reasoning and run it parallel with the sheer
 
but that's for the weekend.
 
today I worked on drilling the holes for the portholes. not an easy task when the instructions say to start at the middle of the ship, but where is the middle.
 
using some off the pictures in the instructions I calculated the middle and used some wood strips to mark the positions.
 
before drilling I checked again with the upper pre drilled holes and found out I was off by about 25 mm
even after this adjustment , they still do not correspond completely with the overall picture of the ship, so I assume there are errors in the measurements that where given.
 
after drilling I inserted the rivets to see the effect and it looks good I think
 
i still need to do the other side and will be looking through the instructions to find any other holes that need to be drilled before i start on cleaning up the paintwork
 

thanks Piet and Mobbsie
 
I know I still have lots to clean up but I am really enjoying the build again
 
I started on the lower green strake now. I am not looking forward to fitting the curved bow part of it tough
 

well it has been a very tiring week , with last Monday turning into a 20 hour work day (till 3:30 am).due to a virus attack
 
but I did get a fair bit done today
 
I have begun attaching the strakes. the cheap masking tape came in handy again to keep them in place
 
in the second picture you see that I still have to finish the hulls painting, but I am going to leave that until I have finished the strakes and some other stuff. then I will mount her on the pedestals and use some styrofoam to protect the hull.
 
I have also worked on the edges of the top fore and aft deck. there are a few inconsistencies in the pictures on how to do them but I think I got it sorted out. also some of the preformed edges are too long and have the wrong angles
 
 

absolutely amazing how you can make a tiny thing like that.

hi Piet, thanks for the advice. and I agree with your reasoning and run it parallel with the sheer
 
but that's for the weekend.
 
today I worked on drilling the holes for the portholes. not an easy task when the instructions say to start at the middle of the ship, but where is the middle.
 
using some off the pictures in the instructions I calculated the middle and used some wood strips to mark the positions.
 
before drilling I checked again with the upper pre drilled holes and found out I was off by about 25 mm
even after this adjustment , they still do not correspond completely with the overall picture of the ship, so I assume there are errors in the measurements that where given.
 
after drilling I inserted the rivets to see the effect and it looks good I think
 
i still need to do the other side and will be looking through the instructions to find any other holes that need to be drilled before i start on cleaning up the paintwork
 

Hello all and Gwen and I wish all a very happy and healthy Thanksgiving.  And to all non Americans have a great and healthy day!
 
Between all the chores around the house I did manage to cement the frames to the v.2.0's keel.  The only problem I had was with frame 9.  I didn't want to cut a slot into the sternpost knee and decided to cut that frame in the center and but cement it to the keel.  Ill drill a few holes in it so I can pin the two sides to the keel with a bamboo pin.  This in itself will be adventure because of the grain at that point.
 
Right now it's not strong enough to hold up to all the handling that'll take place with the planking.
 
I have pre-faired all the frames but will check the fairing and adjust it as necessary.  As you can see on the pics below I have added small strips of about 1 mm between the frames to give them a little more strength.  I may have to run a thin strip over all the frame bottoms like a keelson. 
 
All these frames are still rough and will be dressed down after the planking is on.  Compared to Omega's dinghy this is a giant vessel 
 
Okay, here are the pics of the progress I made.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers,

hi Piet, thanks for the advice. and I agree with your reasoning and run it parallel with the sheer
 
but that's for the weekend.
 
today I worked on drilling the holes for the portholes. not an easy task when the instructions say to start at the middle of the ship, but where is the middle.
 
using some off the pictures in the instructions I calculated the middle and used some wood strips to mark the positions.
 
before drilling I checked again with the upper pre drilled holes and found out I was off by about 25 mm
even after this adjustment , they still do not correspond completely with the overall picture of the ship, so I assume there are errors in the measurements that where given.
 
after drilling I inserted the rivets to see the effect and it looks good I think
 
i still need to do the other side and will be looking through the instructions to find any other holes that need to be drilled before i start on cleaning up the paintwork
 

hi Piet, thanks for the advice. and I agree with your reasoning and run it parallel with the sheer
 
but that's for the weekend.
 
today I worked on drilling the holes for the portholes. not an easy task when the instructions say to start at the middle of the ship, but where is the middle.
 
using some off the pictures in the instructions I calculated the middle and used some wood strips to mark the positions.
 
before drilling I checked again with the upper pre drilled holes and found out I was off by about 25 mm
even after this adjustment , they still do not correspond completely with the overall picture of the ship, so I assume there are errors in the measurements that where given.
 
after drilling I inserted the rivets to see the effect and it looks good I think
 
i still need to do the other side and will be looking through the instructions to find any other holes that need to be drilled before i start on cleaning up the paintwork
 

hi Piet, thanks for the advice. and I agree with your reasoning and run it parallel with the sheer
 
but that's for the weekend.
 
today I worked on drilling the holes for the portholes. not an easy task when the instructions say to start at the middle of the ship, but where is the middle.
 
using some off the pictures in the instructions I calculated the middle and used some wood strips to mark the positions.
 
before drilling I checked again with the upper pre drilled holes and found out I was off by about 25 mm
even after this adjustment , they still do not correspond completely with the overall picture of the ship, so I assume there are errors in the measurements that where given.
 
after drilling I inserted the rivets to see the effect and it looks good I think
 
i still need to do the other side and will be looking through the instructions to find any other holes that need to be drilled before i start on cleaning up the paintwork
 

Hi Adriaan, I understand your dilemma.  It seems that the instructions are not quite clear or in error.  I would think that it should follow the sheer and if the strake is the sheer then run it parellel to it.
 
Cheers,  

A quick update :
 
The carpenters, painters and foundry workers have been sent home to enjoy the Holiday.  All the carraiges are built and the guns and hardware at the ready for the gun deck:
 

 
Gun placement will begin right after the Holiday.  Let me take the opportunity to wish everyone on this side of the pond a Happy Thanksgiving !
 
And peace and tranquility for all, no matter your home port.

thanks Carl for your confidence
 
making the curve will be easy , I am more concerned with the fact that the strake will need to be fixed to the hull at a corner and not one off the sides. so not much contact. my resolve is to flatten to corner in the middle of the curve to give a bigger area of contact. I am just not sure how it will look
 
A quick update from tonight.
 
2 parts of the lower strake are now attached. tomorrow ill attach the ones on the other side. then I will be able to get a rough idea on the shape of the curve.
 
I temporarily attached the albatross to make sure the strake fits snug against it
 
 
 

thanks Carl for your confidence
 
making the curve will be easy , I am more concerned with the fact that the strake will need to be fixed to the hull at a corner and not one off the sides. so not much contact. my resolve is to flatten to corner in the middle of the curve to give a bigger area of contact. I am just not sure how it will look
 
A quick update from tonight.
 
2 parts of the lower strake are now attached. tomorrow ill attach the ones on the other side. then I will be able to get a rough idea on the shape of the curve.
 
I temporarily attached the albatross to make sure the strake fits snug against it
 
 
 

thanks Piet and Mobbsie
 
I know I still have lots to clean up but I am really enjoying the build again
 
I started on the lower green strake now. I am not looking forward to fitting the curved bow part of it tough
 

well it has been a very tiring week , with last Monday turning into a 20 hour work day (till 3:30 am).due to a virus attack
 
but I did get a fair bit done today
 
I have begun attaching the strakes. the cheap masking tape came in handy again to keep them in place
 
in the second picture you see that I still have to finish the hulls painting, but I am going to leave that until I have finished the strakes and some other stuff. then I will mount her on the pedestals and use some styrofoam to protect the hull.
 
I have also worked on the edges of the top fore and aft deck. there are a few inconsistencies in the pictures on how to do them but I think I got it sorted out. also some of the preformed edges are too long and have the wrong angles
 
 

thanks Carl for your confidence
 
making the curve will be easy , I am more concerned with the fact that the strake will need to be fixed to the hull at a corner and not one off the sides. so not much contact. my resolve is to flatten to corner in the middle of the curve to give a bigger area of contact. I am just not sure how it will look
 
A quick update from tonight.
 
2 parts of the lower strake are now attached. tomorrow ill attach the ones on the other side. then I will be able to get a rough idea on the shape of the curve.
 
I temporarily attached the albatross to make sure the strake fits snug against it